This variation was slightly funner than the route to the right. The upper crack takes BD 1-3. Sep 1, 2017

One of my favorites at this crag. May 24, 2015

I placed a 0.5 and 3 C4 in the crack. You definitely want something in the 2-3 range. May 19, 2013

Odd to even have this one bolt as a route, especially when a well-bolted 5.5 is just to the left. Sep 1, 2017

Good route to learn trad. The couple bolts to the left allow you to weigh your gear placed, without fear of them pulling out and you falling a substantial distance. Tricky placement in some dirty spots, but will give a new trad leader a feel for it. Bomber nut placements, tricky for cams as the crack is flaring in many locations. Otherwise, not a very exciting route. Jul 21, 2015

Led up this just to clean the anchors. Probably one move of 5.3 and then not any harder than walking around the back. It should be called this "it is what it is", since that's pretty much the deal. Great for new leaders. You can lead up to the first bolt then combine the line w/ Nurse Nikki (5.5) for a really safe first lead. Jul 2, 2012

Fun one, felt close in difficulty to route to the left. Aug 30, 2017

Really fun climb. Great route to lead climb. May 7, 2014

This route starts the same as Quicksilver (which goes straight up the face through crimps over the roof 10c? Erica however moves to the right and over the roof via a large flake (at bolt 6), the crux is getting your feet set on the roof prior to continuing to the finish. As of today 6/10/13, there is only one (sissy) hanger at the top, you can however clip this and continue past it to the chains for Thunderhead, on the ledge and to the right. Jun 11, 2013

The guidebook calls this a 5.9+ and calls Firestarter (just to the left) a 5.10b which is opposite of what is posted here on Mountain Project. In any case, the traverse left about 15 feet up and the traverse left again under the 2nd roof to join Firestarter are definitely the cruxes, maybe harder than 5.9+ if you are shorter like me. I used 3 60mm alpine draws, 1 to protect the 1st traverse using the random bolt above, and 2 to extend around the 2nd roof to reduce rope drag. In fact, once I got over the 2nd roof and clipped the next bolt above it, I removed the draw that's just to the left of the 2nd roof. This helped quite a bit with reducing rope drag. Above the 2nd roof, the route mellows out. In any case, this is kind of a funky route, but it is still enjoyable. Aug 27, 2017

Why on earth traverse left? How about place an Alien under the flakes and lead the SOB directly up? It's 10b, and it's been done. I also cleaned off that 20 lb. loose flake above the Alien-protected roof. Aug 9, 2016

Great route! The crux is definitely the first 15 feet. Layback until it gets too sloped, and then look for crimps/jug up above. Another cruxy section about halfway up the route, but after that it's 5.6/5.7. Definitely worth a go. Aug 31, 2015

Be sure to add some slings or use long draws for the traverse out left. Aug 16, 2014

The moves from the ground to the little roof 10' up are pretty hard. Much easier after. Aug 26, 2015

The right bolt at the anchor could use a tighten. It's still sturdy, but you are currently able to spin it a couple millimeters. Jun 7, 2017

You could place a big nut (#11) after the 3rd bolt (I think) in a crack on the left with an extension to sew this up if it makes you nervous. I didn't feel it was entirely necessary, but it's there if you want it. Also, with a 70m rope I did this in one pitch with plenty of rope to spare. May 12, 2017

I used a #2 c4 after 3rd bolt. May 24, 2015

Update on where this route goes. Climb the first 5 bolts up a slab. 1-3 gear placements in the undercling crack and finish on the upper right hand bolted portion of Respect, NOT UP LEFT. Variation called Fully Respectful, also 5.12-. Climb the first 5 bolts of Full Respect (5.12-), one gear placement, then climb up left at 5.10c-ish to a 2-mussy hook top anchor. Hopefully I confused everybody by now.... (See Respect for yet another variation and even more confusion.) Apr 10, 2017

I'm gonna go with El Hache here on this one. Calling this 11 ANYTHING is a bogus move. Hell, there's more feet at a glove factory. SOLID, spanking 12 territory. Maybe I just need to learn the moves? Or maybe I need to lose a hundred pounds. Or maybe the assclowns calling this 11- need to have their heads checked.... Aug 27, 2016

When I FAed this route in 2009, moves wired, it felt 5.11d. About 4 years later, in Alzheimer onsight mode, it felt 5.12a. Since then, multiple climbers said 5.11d or 5.12a. Saying this route is 5.11- is complete bullshit. Jul 1, 2016

With fat fingers, it makes using a couple of the slots next to impossible. This would feel a couple grades easier with thinner tips. Jun 3, 2014

My partner and I both felt this is absolutely 11+, don't be fooled by the slab wizards telling you otherwise! Aug 25, 2013

Being a Morrison local, the slab felt all of .11+ to me!!! I suppose there are others who consider this easy .11...Chairman of the Board felt easier, as did the Clipboard...my 2-cents Jun 19, 2013

Strangely bolted - no bolts through 15 feet at the crux-bulge (though it will take a #0.4 and a 0.5 Camalot) and yet two bolts on the 12-foot 5.2 run to the anchors? Jul 10, 2016

We had no gear, so I wallowed up left via the hand crack, lay on my belly, and slung a chockstone. Stepped right to the bolt and higher up jammed a knot in a crack. Along the way I TR'd the roof just left of the route to the right. It was pretty good, at 10 something with a long reach to start. Jun 23, 2011

This route is probably 10+. The holds are pretty small and the feet are tiny, rounded slopers. Slabmasters will like the crux. The rounout is on pretty easy ground relative to the rest of the route. Maybe 5.6 or so? Jul 22, 2010

I did this today. The description is good [2nd bolt line from the left; right up the middle of the slab]. I'm pretty fair on slabs and it struck me as 10d/11a. (I'm 5'8", but it was the only fall I took all day.) Maybe Leo was right about some key holds rounding off [or disappearing altogether?]. I skipped the cams, but easily saw where the would go on the left (after the slab) before moving right to the bolt above an overlap/roof. (BTW, this gave my buddy the opportunity to approach that bolt directly, just at the wide point of the overlap.) Jul 11, 2010

I saw 5 variations of this climb in the new guidebook, and it made my head spin.... Go straight up the bolt line for a 5.9, and go right at any point for a 5.7. Sep 13, 2017

I followed on Good Crack Fun (the crack variation). I'm a little weaker on crack, but this one was pretty friendly with a couple of decent jams. Worth a look if you're just getting into crack climbing. Jul 14, 2013

Finger crack variation is pretty fun! Bomber jams but not so much for feet, so a little tricky. Finger-sized gear there and a 0.5 and 0.75 higher up will sew it up. Or just clip the bolts anywhere from 2' to 4" away from the perfect crack.... Jul 11, 2013

I give it one notch harder than Rain Delay and Quicksilver using the right arete, somewhere around .10d, full credit around .11b without the arete. Sep 13, 2017

Seem like pretty solid 5.11 not using the undercling or the arête . Aug 9, 2014

Cool little route! Wimped out and used the arete, probably 10b/c that way. Jul 11, 2013

Had a blast on this short route. 5.11 sounds good. May 8, 2011

Smaller holds than many routes, but more positive than the other hard slabs on the N Face. Jul 22, 2010

Slight advantage to taller people. Oct 25, 2009

This route felt harder than the .10a to the right and harder than the route to the left to my partner and me. Sep 13, 2017

This route had some water on it today (early May), which made the crux more interesting. Under that roof though, DON'T move right to try to get the clip. It's really tough to move back left, and there aren't any good holds on the right, even though there appear to be some. Just go straight up with those underclings. May 12, 2017

Really enjoyed this route. Tons of fun the whole way up. We avoided the runout by placing 3 pieces of gear. It's my opinion that following the route with gear makes for a funner climb as you could run it out in a straight line and miss the fun roof. Would say this one was second favorite at this area. Not difficult at all for the grade. Sep 25, 2016

Not worth bringing the gear unless you're going for other gear lines. The only runout is through easy climbing. Partner and I both enjoyed this line quite a bit, but I'm not really sure where the crux is. The roof is pretty easy once you find the hold above it. We both thought this was 5.8, and we're gumbies. Certainly don't feel intimidated by the grade, though it *might* be a good idea to stick clip the second bolt if you're a new leader. The moves right below it are thoughtful, and a fall would be...unpleasant. Aug 4, 2015

Don't be intimidated by the crux. All the holds are there. May 24, 2015

There are 8 bolts on this route, unless you clip some on adjacent routes. Minor runout after B4 has ledge-fall potential and can be protected with a small cam (e.g. 0.3 - 0.5 BD). More significant runout above B6 can be protected with micro cams on the left or medium cams under the overlap to the right (long draw). Or just climb through it and wonder where those other bolts went. Jun 17, 2014

Gear 0.5"-1" will protect the middle section nicely. Jul 11, 2013

I did this first just running out the easy sections- did it again with gear, found a nice 0.3 C4 placement below the little roof and a 0.5 C4 in the easier climbing above it. It takes some of the fun out of it but sews it up nicely. Mar 7, 2012

It also has something of a runout on 5.easy terrain (5.6?) that takes gear if you want it. You can step left and clip a bolt on the route to the left up toward the top to make the runout shorter if you do not carry gear. Jul 22, 2010

One of the better easy first leads I've found in the canyon. Sep 1, 2017

Kind of dumb. The "crux" is in the first 10 feet. May 29, 2016

First bolt is placed in the perfect position for a crossloaded biner. Sep 11, 2013

I wouldn't quite give it a bomb, but the little roof is the 5.5 move and after that it's done. But it's a great for new leaders. Jul 2, 2012

Not very exciting in any way, but I've found this to be a good route (and crag overall) to bring people for first sport leads. Mar 8, 2012

Another fun route, felt about the same difficulty as Spooked and Erika above the overhang. Aug 30, 2017

Fun. If you don't bail left at the 5th bolt, this will definitely feel 10+ (maybe 11-). I'd call it 10c if you go left. It's bolted very well and is fun regardless. Aug 16, 2014

I also didn't think this route felt that hard, but maybe it is a sign of improvement. ^^^^^^ May 7, 2014

Fun line. Pic has the climber in the crux. 5.10b/c seemed about right, as shorter climbers have to suss out slightly harder sequence. Being 6' felt like an advantage. Jun 24, 2013

Really liked this route, but didn't think it was that hard. Hopefully it just means I'm getting better. Sep 9, 2012

Fun and interesting climbing. I counted 12 bolts plus anchor. A longer sling worked well on the 8th bolt just before the traverse left. Aug 30, 2017

This route is easily identified by the 3 closely spaced, very low bolts at the beginning of the route. This route was really fun, and well-protected throughout. Aug 10, 2017

Thank you very much for the Mussy hooks, Bruce. The hooks throughout this crag really speed things along, especially on a crowded day. Much appreciated! Jun 25, 2015

Definitely a good route for learning sport lead. There's a lot of protection, great big mussy hook anchors at the top which make both clipping in easy and make it easy for your follower to rap down. Jul 14, 2013

This route seemed a little soft for the grade compared to other routes at the cliff. Fun movement and worth doing. Sep 13, 2017

Agree with the description here. First clip isn't too bad if you find the right feet. I really enjoyed the second crux movement. I found a good high left hand that let me muscle right past. Top is pretty basic but makes for a decent finish of a moderate start. Sep 25, 2016

This route seemed easier than the .9 to the left. A fun one and worth doing. Sep 13, 2017

Full Respect mentioned in the description is incorrect. Respect was the original line. After the undercling crack, climbing upright using the right hand bolts is the original Respect. Correct for Respect goes as follows: Climb a trad dihedral to its to a bolt, traverse right using an undercling crack, and finish up right up some bolts to a 2-mussy hook top anchor. Full Respect climbs the first 5 bolts, 1-3 trad gear placements, then finishes on the same upright bolted section of Respect past the undercling trad placement(s). See other comment on Full Respect for details.... Variation: Start in the dihedral (trad), to a bolt, traverse right and a trad gear placement. Then climb up left on bolts to a 2-mussy hook top anchor. This variation is called Respectfully. Hopefully I confused everybody by now.... (See Full Respect for yet another variation and even more confusion). Apr 10, 2017

This is now my favorite route at Cascade! It requires more gear than other routes here, so I don't think it gets much traffic. Climb this route if you brought the gear! Aug 13, 2014

A little dirty towards the top but a fun route worth doing if you're in the area. Seemed to have more of a trad feel compared to some of the other routes in the area as the first half was mostly all gear. May be a good route to try if that's what you're looking for. Jul 11, 2013

This was a fun warm-up. The roof was pretty easy with big jugs over the lip and good feet. Aug 30, 2017

Through the roof, follow the split in the rock that looks kinda like a butt. Aug 27, 2017

Fun route (must have cleaned up in the past few years?) with a very brief crux. Having said that, the bolting leaves something to be desired. If you've got gear with you, grab the Aliens or equivalent and some nuts and skip the first four (or more!) bolts. Solid placements over very easy climbing. Jul 11, 2013

This route felt like 5.7 climbing with one 5.8 move at the last bolt. I couldn't find any 5.9 moves on the route like the new guidebook suggests. Used a 0.4 BD halfway up, but the terrain is pretty easy in that section. Sep 13, 2017

I think the crux on this is right by the 3rd bolt. I was surprised how easy it felt between the 2nd and 3rd bolt after having read the description on here. Jul 28, 2014

There is ground fall potential from below the 3rd bolt in the gear placement range if you opt not to take gear. The climbing there is easy though. This is the least good of all the routes. Jul 22, 2010

I thought the hand jams were good enough near the ear, but facing right and chimneying seemed easier to reach the jugs. Sep 1, 2017

Awkward and grunty for me... not terribly hard but definitely not a give away for the grade. It's a nice change compared to the techy slabs that the rest of the cliff offers. Jun 12, 2017

It has much improved with age, having cleaned up quite a bit. Aug 9, 2016

The ear reminded me of Lumpy and was pretty hard for a warm up.... First I tried to jam and chimney behind it, but it was easier to just layback on the outside. Aug 18, 2011

Not so great, honestly. I can't say as if I thought it was a good route. It was awkward on 2 ascents, but never challenging in a good way. Jul 22, 2010

I thought this was fun. (I started in the alcove, climbed the face and small rt facing dihedral.) Couple of hand jams, an arm bar and then outside to the diagonal crack and up. If nobody had been on the next route to the right, I'd have probably gone to those anchors, but up and left worked fine with a directional cam (.4 or .5) at the ledge. Jul 11, 2010

Felt about the same difficulty as Quicksilver and Erika to me. 5.10- sounds about right. Lots of bat poop below the roof, watch the feet. Aug 30, 2017

Agreed with the previous comments here. Pretty good romp up to the roof. Find some good holds and high feet, and pulling over the roof is no big deal even for a short guy (5'6). Very fun climb worth doing if in the area. Sep 25, 2016

Reachy roof, but trust it, the holds are good! Jul 21, 2015

According to Bob D'Antonio's 2nd ed guidebook, this route is "Spooked" (5.10). I'm throwing up a beta photo that shows the full route. Jul 12, 2013

I thought this was the line called Spooked? When I climbed it, I was wondering if the poop had something to do with the name. Could the route currently labeled as Spooked be wrong? Or am I wrong? May 23, 2012

Visited the crag for the first time today with the family. Easy approach, cool temperatures, and very amply bolted routes. Yee ha, lots 0' fun. This route definitely climbed in the easy 10 range and pulling the roof was a blast. Oh yeah, the wood rat shit made the roof moves more fun, too!!! May 8, 2011

The roof felt 10a but may be harder for short folks. Jul 22, 2010

I think the bulge at the top is awkward. 5.9 IMHO. One could also start this route with the 4 bolts on the blunt arete to the right of the tree scar. Oct 8, 2009

Really enjoyed this one. Thoughtful climbing above and below the crux, but none of it is too hard. The crux is sequency and thoughtful but really excellent once you work it out. Very well-protected. Aug 4, 2015

Sweet climb. I went right at the roof pumpy after the roof. May 24, 2015

At the overhang, you can either go straight up the bolt line to thin hands/slopy side pulls (my book calls this 11...) or use the crack 2 feet to the right, (with the bolts just at your left hip) 10b, one of the more interesting climbs at the crag, & well-protected. Jun 11, 2013

Fun lead for those just learning to place gear. The middle and upper sections take BD 0.5-3, and I didn't see any issues with any placements or overall rock quality. Sep 1, 2017

Anyone know if this FA is the same as the realtor? Jul 24, 2007

Dirty, crumbling rock encrusted in lichen. Unless you are looking for choss, I suggest skipping this one. Mar 26, 2008

A few years ago, Mike and I went back. Clipping the 14 bolts, I led this climb, the top of which seemed different from what I remembered. The climb that Mike led in 1981 didn't have a #3 Friend placement at the top of the dihedral, as does this climb. As I brought Mike up, he noted that he had exited left in 1981 (on what is now known as "Icy Paralyser") where that line of bolts diverges from this one. Yesterday, we climbed "Hydraulic Sandwich" and "Icy Paralyzer." We now firmly agree that "Icy" was MIke's lead in '81, when he placed maybe a couple/three wires and one or two Friends on the whole pitch. Only four sizes of rigid-stemmed Friends were available. A #1 Friend might have been placed after exiting from the main dihedral, to the left. We thought our 1981 route was 5.10. That's one reason that I later assumed we had done "DtP" — it is rated 5.10. Sep 25, 2015

Wow, you guys play nicely together. Ice cream for both of you! Seriously- I wouldn't have guessed that it was a free route before the bolts either, so I can see where the mistake got made. Nice that you are both taking it in stride. Jun 1, 2011

Steve -- No worries. I don't think first ascenders own the rock, anyway. Every time I've driven up the canyon since we climbed it, I've reminisced about it. Now I'd like to clip those bolts (and the others on the rock). So leave 'em there. Jun 1, 2011

George, that must have been an impressive lead by Mike. I can imagine there was hardly any gear at all let alone any good gear. Since there was no record of your ascent on the rock or any guidebook as of 1996, we bolted it. If you guys are sure this is the same line (and I believe it probably is) and Mike wishes to see the bolts removed, I will gladly remove them. We named it the Beer Can for the 30 year old Coors Cans we found wedged on the summit block. Peace, Steve S. May 30, 2011

Mike Endicott led me up this route in Sept 1981. Most of the climb had no good pro. We called it (and the rock) The Angel of Death. The rock resembles a Darth Vader-like creature with wings folded down. The route climbs along the left edge of the right-hand wing. May 30, 2011

"First attempt to climb up through the chimney. After most likely failing" lol, totally true. Oct 26, 2015

This route does not deserve a bomb rating. It is not great but is worth doing if you are at the rock. I would definitely have a #6 Camalot if you lead it. Oct 25, 2015

One move of 5.9+ on the face to get started. Don't fall. The bottom was too wide for a #4 Camalot, but I think a #4.5 would have placed OK to protect this. Crawl through a shrub to get it in, reverse the move, and then go face climbing. Up higher, the climbing is much easier. I think I only did 1 real offwidth move on the route. Not worth the effort. Oct 10, 2005

Clipping the bolt above the sloping ledge is committing. The swing at the roof is fun! Oct 25, 2015

I agree with Ivan's statement on clipping the bolt above the sloping ledge, it's commiting. I'm 5'6" on a good day and had to use a 6" cheater to clip it after moving up a bit on the crimps. Without it, I would have had to do a really scary move to clip. Other than that, a really fun climb. Apr 23, 2012

The roof is a fun "no feet" swing through. Why not use feet? Because you don't have to. Monkey-bar like holds don't need them.The crux is up above on the slab and face. Edging shoes or crimping dues, your choice. Oct 10, 2005

Turning the roof is exciting, but not too hard. I did not unclip the bolt protecting the roof and instead used a long runner. But the first bolt above the roof caused the rope to run around a small corner, and that caused some serious drag later. So maybe unclip the bolt above the roof after clipping the bolt above that. Clipping the bolt above the big sloping ledge was scary for me. It's a long reach (and I'm tall), and you're a long way above the previous bolt. You have good edge for one hand, but you have to smear up with your feet to make the reach (or worse if you're short). If you blew the clip, you'd come flying over the roof and probably hit the wall below. If you're having trouble making this clip, you can traverse right on the sloping ledge and temporarily clip a bolt on Icy Paralyzer. Aug 29, 2004

Everyone should go to HydraulicSandwich.com for more details!!! Nov 16, 2003

Yesterday, Mike Endicott and I climbed the routes known as "Hydraulic Sandwich" and "Icy Paralyzer." We now firmly agree that Mike led "Icy" in '81, when he placed maybe a couple/three wires and one or two Friends on the whole pitch. Only four sizes of rigid-stemmed Friends were available. A #1 Friend might have been placed to the left, after exiting from the main dihedral of "DtP" onto "Icy." We thought our 1981 route was 5.10. That's one reason that I later assumed that we had done what became known as "DtP," which is rated 5.10. BTW in '81, we climbed directly up to the main dihedral, instead of traversing right from today's bolted anchors at the start of the pitch. Instead of the cumbersome name "AoD," let's call this route Cool Runnings. Mike certainly kept is cool when running it out, up unknown, difficult, committing terrain — without any of the 15 bolts now on the climb. See the comments posted for "AoD"/"DtP." Sep 25, 2015

The best of the 3 sport climbs on the wall, and a good route overall. I thought the moves through the roof were moderate 5.10 and a second 5.10 crux came up on thin face moves above. The picture below shows the good stem one can get by going high, clipping to the left, then stepping out to the branch off that this line takes from the 5.10 line. I found a really cool and fun rest there when, unable to stem due to a severe ankle injury, I layed back hard left with my body from the corner, crossed hands a few times and plopped my left palm down on the big bucket with my feet out to the right still horizontally even with my head. This felt like a "no hands" rest and was a stance sufficient to clip from. Funny stuff you run into on rocks like this. Oct 10, 2005

I thought this was quite hard. Moving left to get established over the roof seemed much harder than the 5.9 that Ron says above. And you end up on an insecure stance. With difficulty, I moved further left and around the arete to a big ledge for a rest. The crux for me was making the clip after moving left onto the lip of the roof, but I was a little spooked and rattled. Aug 29, 2004

Climbing friend, I make enjoyable pumping flash of this fine route! I very much like power arete with hold of undercling shape! I take deep breath and forearms become refreshed at crux, and climbing becomes not so difficult with the correct mental state and many practicings of the 4-plan. Jan 29, 2015

This is a magnificent route that climbs the beautiful arete. I have worked the route the last two days and felt that there were two distinct and different cruxes, one about 3 or 4 bolts out and then another near the top. There seem to be a million tick marks for feet all over the route with some fun, body tensiony heel hooking on the upper section. I copped a no-hands rest about halfway up by traversing 1 foot right at the ledge although the guidebook doesn't seem to consider this "on". Either way, it's a pumpy route and fairly consistent with the grade. As usual, you get the climbing grade controversy, I have heard that it's as low as 12b and as high as 13a. I have been climbing lots of mid to hard 12s in Rifle, Potrero, Shelf, Clear Creek, the New, etc. and feel that it's fairly consistent with the grade of 12c. Rate it what you want if it makes you feel better. Nonetheless, the route is stellar and props to the person who bolted the route! Make sure to check out Animal Magnetism close by.... I reckon that this is the best 5.11 in Boulder Canyon.... Mar 23, 2011

I left an Ipod Nano here yesterday April 23rd 2010.... If you found it, would you please please get in touch with me... you will get infinite Karma points! 4252680126. Jesse Apr 23, 2010

Did the sharp left hand crimp next to the first crux-clip break? It seems a lot smaller than I remember it, I hadn't been on this route for years. Maybe it was the smarmy weather. Still one of my top 5 favorite front range routes. I think 13a if you don't do the no hands rest between cruxes, 12d if you camp out on the ledge; moves are as hard (but not as painful and crimpy) as HOD to the left. May 28, 2009

My partner sent the lower crux this way: right hand on the undercling...left hand up left to a small 2 finger lip that is sharp. Right foot on tiny dime edge and after moving the left foot up to an ok smear throws with right hand to the sloper. I could get the left hand 2 finger hold, but then couldn't release the undercling...might try the other beta here and skip this crap 2 finger hold. Not using heel hooks on the upper section would be stout. Oct 26, 2008

Phenom route - definitely 12c. Jul 15, 2008

Sweet route, temp-dependent Nov 14, 2005

FWIW, this may have a height dependent crux, as I did not think this was a hard-12c. I got this second try and have never sent Rifle 12c in fewer than 3 tries (Vasodilator took me about 10) Nov 14, 2005

12cs at Rifle take me 5 or less tries. This one took me about 10. It is very [temperature-dependent], but I would say the crux move is as hard as any move on Vaso. It's much harder, for instance, than "Bovine Impact" at Rifle, another Fred Knapp route...It's a super good route, though, regardless of the grade. I also moved straight to the left-hand gaston from the right hand undercling, and then slapped the sloper. Nov 13, 2005

Jim, The added bolt when it below the bolt that protects the lower crux. It is designed to help if you blow the clip. I'm a cheapscate when it comes to bolting, at least by today's standards. Oct 13, 2004

This is a stellar route; Kudos to Fred and Dan for putting it together. If you don't step around the corner to the right after the first crux to rest (which drops the difficulty), but instead stay to the left for a more taxing rest, then it is a comparable red point to Latest Rage at Smith Rock in Oregon, although more moves. It is a notch harder than Easy Skankin in Rifle, but a notch easier than Pretty Hate Machine. So, call it standard solid 5.12. (Certainly, no-one will call it 12a.) It would be a difficult route to onsight--very beta intensive. Yes, you have to use lots of heel hooks, especially on the upper arête (I count four). Using these heel hooks and slapping the arête_well, you are not going to get better pure arête climbing in the Front Range. PS: Fred: where did the added bolt go in? Aug 23, 2004

12b? I've heard this thing called a possible 13a (duck and run), not that I'd know. Perhaps solid, very solid 12, possibly +. On the first crux, it seemed best to go up with the left hand first to the sloping gaston, and then match before slapping for better holds. Feet are terrible. Not sure how you could do the upper section without heel hooks. May 10, 2004

Richard - Yes, it's a long reach with the right hand. May 1, 2004

Joe - Thanks for another view. We had taken a look at the gaston and decided that the feet just got worse. The cross-through leaves your right foot well placed, but requires a great deal of flex in the hips, and it's powerful. Frankly, I'd prefer it without the cross-through since that makes the move even more powerful. Next time we are up there I'll give the gaston a try. In similar situations, I've found the trickier footwork to be more successful than the more powerful solution. Oct 2, 2003

To jump in here, Richard... the beta I used for that section was to crank from the undercling straight up with the left to a well-ticked gaston edge. My partner used a four-pad micro-crimp just below and to the left of this. Then I would quickly slap the right hand onto the groper (the one you probably cross to). This might not work if you don't have the ape index. We both initially tried the cross-through to the groper, which went more staticly, but couldn't move up from that hold. I could buy this as being a really hard Rifle-12b, but in B.C. or C.C.C this is solid 12c. Oct 2, 2003

We should all be so neglected. You didn't comment on the beta yourself, Fred, but was the left hand cross-through the way you had sussed out the first crux? This move seemed really powerful, has so far always stalled me, and may not even work if you don't have the ape index. Oct 1, 2003

Thanks, Richard...it's just that I was feeling so neglected.... Oct 1, 2003

Geee, Fred, how could we have let this slip by? For what it is worth, here is my impression. First, Animal Instinct is a killer line and truly worth the three stars posted here (That was the stroke). Second, it's tricky and powerful, but well worth the trouble to solve. Initially easy moves gain the base of the arete which is followed by a few straight-forward moves to a powerful undercling off progressively worsening feet. Hunker up with the undercling in the right hand (sic!) and then make a very strenuous reach right with [left] hand to an initially sloping ledge. This move seemed hard. Once established right of the arete and on the ledge, a step around left puts you on the arete proper with holds coming from both sides. We found that a couple of heel hooks worked well for this sector. In fact, a heel hook seemed essential for the last clip on the arete. Move left at the top of the arete to another hard move on largely crisp edges. This is followed by a run up to the anchor on Sun Dog. Frankly, the final 5.9 run to the anchor seemed like a full blown crux in its own right, not difficult but spooky by the time you get here. Overall: great line, interesting and difficult moves, well protected but for the end, on excellent quality Boulder Canyon granite. (***) Sep 17, 2003

No one has commented on this fine route? If the grade and bolts aren't [controversial], I should say that I rated the route 12b, not 12c and feel that it should be a benchmark for that grade. Also, a bolt was added by a third party (I gave permission after getting tired discussing it). I just don't want people think I'm another overbolter/overgrader. It's just that I try to use the standards of Eldorado Canyon, Rifle or American Fork. Sep 16, 2003

This climb has awesome great exposure and fun moves! I mainly climb in Vedauwoo and up the Poudre Canyon, and for what it's worth, I would say 11a/b simply because of the length of the climb and the pump factor. I think it's only a 11c because it's in Boulder Canyon. No single move was 11+, just sustained 10d. Really it's 5.Fun! Great Climb. Mar 8, 2017

Simply fucking great!!!!! Jun 9, 2016

Removed some draws off of this yesterday. Happy to return them.... Oct 19, 2015

I agree with Tony's comments concerning - I didn't have much trouble with the lower crux, but the top is more sequency than my tired old self could handle. All the holds are there, so the solid .11 climber shouldn't have much trouble with this. That being said - why all the bolts? It seems pretty protectable throughout most of the climb. Jul 23, 2013

While I can see this route becoming vastly easier once you have the beta dialed, the lower crux is quite sequencey and the long sustained nature of the upper section can really wear you down if you don't do things just so. I actually think that, in contrast to routes like Free Willie which are obviously soft, that Animal Magnetism felt to me more like 11d while I was attempting to onsight it. Regardless of the grade this is an amazing climb and absolutely worth getting after! Jun 13, 2012

Best sport climbing pitch in the canyon? I think yes. Oct 14, 2011

I left an Ipod Nano near here yesterday April 23rd 2010 at the base of Animal Instinct, the arete climb.... If you found it, would you please please get in touch with me... you will get infinite Karma points! 4252680126. Jesse Apr 23, 2010

What a fun route, pumpy and tricky. That big hold out left at the first crux fooled me, it felt much easier to move straight up instead of reaching out left. Oct 20, 2008

This is a great pitch. My beta for the lower crux: use the left Gaston to get the right hand in place. Then lean to the right and do the high step to the hold between the 3rd and 4th bolts, but with the *left* foot. Now stand using a laybacky move Gaston-cranking off the right hand. This seems easier than the right-footed high step shown in the middle picture of the 2nd row. Note: if your belayer refuses to follow, cleaning is difficult. Jul 14, 2008

I agree with the above posters about the second crux and height (I'm sub 5'3). For me, the first crux (down low) was casual, but the second crux was harder because I had to use a slippery hold to reach the jug. Jun 28, 2008

This is one of my favorite pitches, trad or sport, in the whole canyon. The section from after the second crux to the anchors is as good as it gets. The fact that I can speak so highly of this pitch despite the fact that it has historically given me trouble is a testament to its quality. Note on the rating: anyone below a certain height (185 cm??) will find AM's rating quite solid as the second crux will not involve a long reach to a great jug, but instead popping to the jug from a nubbin which is almost always wet. May 19, 2008

I'm short (5' 5") and found the upper crux considerably harder than the lower one. The lower crux is just balancy. Warning: beta ahead. Short person beta - for the lower crux - from the decent hold just below the 4th bolt, reach up and left and grab the large sidepull left of the bolt with both hands. Put your right foot on the hold where your hands just were (high step to the hold below the bolt). Then layback/highstep/rock up on to your right foot, reach up and get the finger pocket above the right bolt with your right hand. Next bump up to the jug just above the pocket. For the upper crux - work your hands up the left sloping rail until your left hand is on the third decent hold - between the two large jugs lower down and the small crimper further up. Move your feet up to the two decent incut feet, then reach up with the right hand to a small, wet, slimy hold just below a large chalked jug. Hop your left foot up and go for the jug. May 15, 2007

David- I guess to fine tune my point is: ratings from one side of a particular crag to another is a relavent debate, or one end of canyon to another. However, to compare two different styles of climbing or two areas, i.e. Yosemite crack climbing versus Eldo slab climbing versus Rifle steep limestone, is comparing apples to oranges. Eldo 5.11 does not equal Boulder Canyon 5.11 does not equal Yose 5.11 Grades are basically area and style-dependent. One man's nightmare is another's daydream. Just my opinion. Jan 4, 2007

K. Noisewater's post raises some thought provoking issues about the personal variability of the rating system. In general, I agree with his relative rankings but: Plan B is much easier for me than Tell Tale Heart, essentially the difference between onsight and total flail. I'm far more likely to fall at the 2nd crux of Animal Magnetism than at any point on The Edge. My approximate lifetime batting averages on these two climbs: AM .250, TNE .970. For that matter, I like my chances less on AM than on any pitch of Astroman except for the hard (traditional) version of the boulder problem. Have I crossed the border into full fledged moronism? Jan 3, 2007

11c solid (for BC, not Eldo). The first pitch of Global Gorilla just left is solid 11b, and considerably easier. Of course if you compare it to Jules Verne, the Edge, Astroman, the whole discussion is irrelevent, bordering on moronic. My take on bench mark Boulder Canyon sport grades ONLY is. Freewillie -10d/11a (soft) Global Gorilla -11b (solid) Animal Magnetism -11c/d (solid) Empire of the Fenceless (ER) -11d/12a Hot Flyer (USR) -12a Tell Tale Heart (ER) -12a Plan B (USR) - 12b (solid) Animal Instinct -12c (solid) Of course people disagree on these, but relative to each other, I say it's about right. Jan 3, 2007

11c sustained climbing, minus a subtle rest after the first crux. May feel easier to folks with smaller hands, i.e. the undercling seam is a "jug" instead of a one knuckle crimp. Ain't no way it's 11a :). Great climb all editorials aside. -KT Nov 6, 2006

BE CAREFUL on the lower out, especially if top-roping. A 60 meter rope will not reach in the plumb line. Because of the traversing nature of this route, the lead climber starts uphill on a high spot/pedestal, but lowers off to a different spot further down the hill. If the belayer then stands at the downhill spot and belays a climber on TR, the rope WILL NOT REACH when the TR climber lowers straight back down to where the belayer is. I watched a friend get lowered off the end of the rope here. Tie a knot in the end of your rope! Always! And a stopper knot, not some weak-ass figure eight. But you knew that. Feb 1, 2006

A very, very enjoyable route. It is very height dependant though, my rating reflects that. For me, the crux was the bulge down low, and the rest of the route is fun cranking on jugs. Shorter climbers may struggle through the upper section. May 10, 2004

Is there, as they say, a grain of truth to Ken Trout's attempt at humor? By skipping 2/3 of the bolts on this route I didn't change it for those who can only imagine bolts, but neither was it much harder than clipping the bolts. It's just a rather disappointing experience given the potential for greatness. Before you list trad routes that haven't had bolts added to them you should ask Alan Nelson about the Bacher-Yerian. Aug 11, 2003

Comment deleted March, 2007. Sorry it took me so long to figure out how to get to my original account and delete the dumb stuff. Steve, or anyone, please message me via the mtn proj if you know of any other comments that need fixing. ps Good lead! pps BRING A 70 METER ROPE OR BE READY TO PENDULUM! Aug 11, 2003

I've led this w/3bolts and I think with the right cam another could be skipped. The clean protection is so good near the top that an A1 medium stopper could be tossed into the crack from 10' away (the bolt is inches away). This would have been a great route. The added finish is suspect and is another story. Jul 1, 2002

I really enjoyed this route. It has a great variety of moves on it with a technical, fingery crux and then a long, pumpy, reachy section above. Good reach is an advantage on this route and seems to bring the grade on the upper section down a letter grade or so. May 20, 2002

Both anchor hangers are loose. I don't know how solid the bolts are, but rappel/lower carefully, and don't toprope off them. May 30, 2017

The crux beta seemed pretty straightforward (hang slopers, throw right foot onto a good edge out right, reach with right hand to a sinker finger-bucket). Fun route. Jul 30, 2014

No comment on grade; however, foot beta is important on this one. I found that cutting my feet at the lip and, with momentum, throwing my right foot on the obvious, large foot hold out right made this go down fairly easy. Ignore those tiny ticked jibs.... Stick to the good feet. Jun 5, 2014

Interesting reading the comments after climbing this recently. I'll chip in my .02: Toe cam - I have no idea where you would use a toe cam to make it easier, it seemed like the holds were all facing the wrong way for this tactic(???). Hard/easy... my first go felt really hard, but it was pretty hot and humid, which isn't a good combo for this (or any) route. After figuring it out, it was still not super easy. Somebody calls it 11c, and their tick comments say 'onsight with a rest' or something like that. Not sure what to say about that. Short versus tall, either should work ok. Short would be better for heel hooking. Tall can throw further, but it is more shouldery. I missed ac's hidden crimp, maybe that would help. Another person had a good comment about paying attention to moving your leg around the rope. My first go I didn't really enjoy it, but after I put it together, it was actually pretty fun. Definitely worth doing if you are in the area. Aug 26, 2013

I'm 8ft. tall and this route felt like 5.9b. But, my girlfriend is only 3.6 inches tall and she said it felt like 5.17a so we split the difference and came up with 5.12a. Oh, and this is a good route too if you like that sort of thing. Dec 21, 2012

I'm short, so I went from the slopers and basically jumped to the good rail out right. Once I stuck that, I swung my right foot over and crossed my left hand into the rail and mantled up to the slab section. I thought it was a fun route overall. Mar 11, 2012

This route is temperature dependent. Sent second go today, the middle of December. Comparing this to Empire of the Fenceless or Strange Science just across the canyon, I would say it sits in between. In 60+ degrees, it would be hard. 11d? Dec 18, 2011

Probably soft, but I thought it was a ton of fun. The moves before the crux are big for me! My feet often cut going to the triangular jug, then some high steps and pinches get me to the crux, which felt a little more difficult than Days of Future Passed. May 27, 2011

Kind of a cruise to the crux but nice movement. Coming off of an elbow injury maybe I'm feeling soft, but the crux move seemed 12a to me. Jul 27, 2010

This climb is great an fairly easy hike up to the crux then play on the sloper for a while right hand over to crimper. Then throw for a little crack. Then walk up the rest. May 30, 2010

This felt significantly easier than 5.12s on nearby walls. I have recently had difficulty with Prince of Thieves 5.12a/b and Space Goats 5.11d. I want to rate this 11b, but to reduce conflict, I'll say 5.11c. I'm 5'6.5" +3. Oct 15, 2006

This route is definitely similar to a gym climb. The crux is very difficult for shorter people. While you're on the sloper, the rope can get in the way of your foot maneuvering. Jun 18, 2006

Jug haul to V4 boulder problem. I found to best beta is high step left from the jug, left hand windmill to the low sloper/sidepull on the lip, right foot on good edge below jug, right hand backstep to postive part of the lip, match, left foot to jug, right foot flag, right hand gaston on rail then crimp it. Cut feet and swing right foot to low positive rail, shift your weight and fire to the good crimp. 5 moves. This route gave me a hard time the first time I was on it. Nov 24, 2005

One hard move and that's pretty much it... Took me a while to figure out how to pull the crux. Oct 27, 2003

Beta: Stop reading if you don't want it. Left foot on nubbin, right on a good edge to the right, hands on the chalked jug well beneath the roof. High reach with LEFT hand to the left side of the sloping roof. Right foot out left kickback style. Right hand to a small crimpy sidepull out right below the roof (hard to see). Grab it, adjust left hand to slopy crimp on roof. Walk feet over to the right ending with the right foot on good sloper way out right. Then go for the slanting jug above the roof with your right hand. Oct 22, 2003

I didn't find this route to be stout for 12a. In fact, Sun Dog - also 12a at Animal World - is significantly harder. Jun 25, 2003

Difficult, one-move-wonder. Contrasted to Global Gorilla, it should earn a single star for the easy approach to the crux (5.9 or 5.10), single move crux perhaps two, a ledge rest before the last sequence, and a short route overall. Slopey move to a deep slot. Gotta stick the sloper. Jun 19, 2003

Oh sure, ask me a year later... (snicker)I honestly recall it not being that hard for 5.12a- maybe the same as Empire of the Fenceless (?). Anyway, the toe hooks I am talking about were like side-pulls for the toes down below and kept my body at the right angles to be somewhat secure with the available hands. No doubt, as this climb "wears in" over the years, it will get harder. May 29, 2003

I agree with the comments above regarding this route. I got so flustered, falling repeatedly off the crux, that I tried to aid it by stepping in a sling, albeit unsuccessfully. I'm 6' tall with long arms so I don't think the problem is a reach issue. The crux seems to be sorting out your sequence of slaps along the slopey crimps at the lip of the bulge. May 29, 2003

Whoa. The hardest 12a I've ever been on. What toe hook are you talking about? I'm only 5'8", but I would think I would've at least seen something for the feet. I ended up just campusing through the slopers to the finger bucket at the end. Nice to see some Boulder Canyon climbs with honest (sandbagged) grades. May 29, 2003

I did not think that this one was too hard, but maybe it plays to my strengths. It is a matter of just a few moves. Shoulder strength and arm length may be crux for some people, but for me it was more the footwork that gave me the body position I needed. 5.12a seems reasonable, I guess for a local grade on sport. I've been on harder 5.11s and easier 5.12s. Jun 26, 2002

This has to be one of the hardest 12a sport climbs in Boulder Canyon Jun 26, 2002

Without commenting too much further on the grade, I can say that at 5'10" there is a dividing line. This climb [would] be significantly harder for short people than for tall people due to the [availability] to [toe-hook] the feet below the sloping rail. I'm 5'10" and have relatively long arms and found that I could reach everything I needed without a real struggle, but with not more than an inch to spare. Jun 18, 2002

May have left a La Sportiva Katana Lace Up at the bottom of Animation.... Give me a call at 3077304933 or email andyrenz5@gmail.com (might not be in immediate phone service) if you find it. You're the best! Nov 15, 2017

Great holds, bolting, and climbing. One of my favorites in the area. Jul 17, 2017

IT IS WRONG TO USE OR EVEN MENTION THE NAME Jaycene’s Dance. Leitner and Alber went up and retro-bolted a route already climbed and named ANIMATION, then had the phenomenal lack of character to rename it. How low can you go? It is however appropriate to mention that the route was retro-bolted because the bolts are there, and I did not place them So please do not validate their transgression by listing Jaycene’s Dance as an AKA. THE ROUTE DOES NOT HAVE TWO NAMES any more than it has two first ascents. Thank you. Jul 7, 2017

So much fun! Large variety of rock shape and movement. Jan 2, 2017

Everything you read here is correct - I just wanted to add that a 60m rope works fine for a TR. There are rap rings and quick hooks at the top. Set your own gear for the TR. I'm sure this gets enough laps that the anchors would have to be replaced often otherwise. Aug 8, 2016

Do this climb. It's awesome. Mar 28, 2015

Hit it yesterday on a warm winter day. Great sun until around 3. Great grippy rock, every hold was solid. Great 5.8. Solid hardware, though I threw a piece in before the first bolt for extra pro, since it's a bit tall. Jan 27, 2015

On June 9th, Dale Haas and I replaced the old anchor with two 1/2" SS Powers bolts. We added SS quicklinks and SS rappel rings to the hangers. The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association(ASCA)(www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support. Jun 16, 2014

Such a fun route! Definitely one of the better 8s I've done. Fun moves, good to put a beginner on top rope I would think (but really fun to lead). If you are leading it, it's hard to reach the 5th (?) bolt from the big ledge.... I'm 5'8", and I had to do a little move to reach the bolt. All in all, great route! Do it if you're in the area! Jun 12, 2012

Awesome route, not the best if you are bringing a beginner out.... The crux is at the top which is amazingly tall for a top-rope!! May 30, 2012

There's a 200+ lb rock about 20-30 feet up on the left side near a bush that looks like it might just get pulled out if you were to unwittingly use it as a hold, as I started to do.... It's not too hard to miss, though. Other than that the rock is really solid. Fun climb! May 6, 2011

It is a lesson in climbing technique! It starts off standard, goes into a mantel, a sidepull, then a place to jam a crack. Ends with a lesson in undercling technology, and there is always a sloper to get familiar with. Have fun. Oct 9, 2010

Good beginner's route. Fun speed climbing for intermediates/advanced climbers. Do this route, whether it is a new adventure or as a way to get your blood flowing. Great, comfy area too! Aug 31, 2010

Great fun route - The bulge goes easily, it's getting up and close to it that was the crux for me! Jun 4, 2009

It's fun to skip the bolts and place gear on this route. RPs to #0.75 Camalot. Aug 27, 2008

There's a very loose flake about the size of a plate towards the top of the route (after the big ledge a bit). I couldn't pull it out, but it was freely moving in place. Jun 20, 2008

I really liked this one as well. My first 5.8 lead ever. Positive holds everywhere. The only cruxen for me were between bolts 2 & 3 and then just below the last bolt but there was/is a nice undercling there. It was wet when I climbed it on 5/28/08. I'm either getting better, or its not really a 5.8 but maybe a 5.7-. Jun 2, 2008

This route and Mosquito Burrito (Bowling Alley) have very similar position, although MB is more sustained, and the climbing is more intricate, for the grade. I enjoyed this route, although I thought the bolt above the first ledge-break was placed too high. I am 6', and I had to stretch for it. A shorter climber would have to do a high-step move off the ledge, and a fall there would be a big one onto the slab below after you bounced off of the ledge. A trick that I learned from setting gym routes was to never set holds above elbow height, with the arm raised above my head. That pretty much assured that a shorter person had an equal chance of reaching it from the same stance. Maybe some of these route developers should consider the same practice when placing bolts. That bolt should be a foot lower, and then the route would be better, IMO. Nov 7, 2007

Awesome! Probably the best of its grade that I have been on in a long time. Would recommend that everyone try it. Nov 1, 2007

Only had time to climb for a day in a half in Colorado and really enjoyed this climb. A nice change from the slab climbing. A bit more vert and gotta love the changes in the type of climbing. Aug 14, 2007

Good climb on a nice day, don't catch it on a bad day though! haha. May 2, 2007

The "first action photo" would be Hands of Destiny. It is located just right (2000 feet) of Jaycene's Dance. Sep 20, 2004

Bingo, Jake, that's it. Thanks for clearing this up. Sep 19, 2004

George: Did you end up at Mine Hole Crag, and climb Sofa Kingdon? Sep 19, 2004

Random comments: the bolted route right of this is now listed here under "Unfamiliar Strangers, 5.9+", I believe. We climbed both of these and enjoyed them. The first "action photo" on this page is not Jaycene's Dance. I don't have enough knowledge of this crag to know what route is actually picured, but it's definitely not this route. We got lost on the way to Animal World and climbed an obscure bolted route which is on a crag about 100 yards due west of Animal World, with the base 50 vertical feet higher. It is a fun route, probably only 5.8 with about 7 bolts on it. It is just right of a gully, but I have no idea what crag it is on. There are some more bolts right of this line. Sep 19, 2004

A single 5.8 move just before the anchors, and the rest of the route a grade or two lower. Nice and continuous, though. Mar 1, 2004

Great route to bring a friend just getting into the sport. The positively positive blocks make it a blast and such a nice view from the top. Jun 26, 2003

Despite the route names or bolting issues, the bottom line is that this is a great route for any intermediate leader. Whenever you need a good hand or foothold, there seems to be one there for you. Very little exposure on the way up to sketch you out. At the top there is a decent view up and down the canyon. Simply an all around good climb and one many should put on their "tick" list. Sep 3, 2002

This climb has now been retro-bolted. Between the 4th and 5th bolts is a ledge. At 5 feet 4 inches tall, this was the crux for me, getting that 5th clip. I could not reach it from the ledge and had to make a move to get higher. A fall back to the 4th bolt would have been a good one. If you fall while pulling up rope for the clip.... Diminutive folks may wish a nut or two to place for this move. Just a suggestion. BTW, adding bolts to a climb does not generally give you the right to rename it.... Aug 13, 2002

Before it was bolted, this route was led with gear and named "Animation 5.9". After receiving bolts and letter grade drop in difficulty, it was listed in Rolofson's guide as "Jaycene's Dance 5.8".... Jul 1, 2002

A great route. This route has plenty of holds as suggested. The length also adds to the enjoyment of the route. This is certainly a great warm up for the others on this crag. I would suggest 'Free Willie' and the 12a that you first see when you arrive from the left of the crag, a beauty. This is a super route for a new leader, not sure how to interpret 'Turbo Bitchin', but definitely great. Oct 4, 2001

For wusses like me, it's convenient to TR this route from the anchors on Cannabis Sportiva. Short but fun. Mar 15, 2015

I gave this route a go yesterday. The gear was heads up until the pod at mid-height, but the climbing up to that point isn’t too bad. The fractured hold in the crack didn’t inspire confidence, however. The crack is just left of the arête – at the crux I reached around to the right instead of jamming the off-fingers crack and found enough of an edge to get through it. It would be harder if you stayed in the crack, but a little contrived in my opinion. Good route. Jul 19, 2009

About a month ago I put in a bolted anchor on this route and cleaned it, not knowing it had been done before. The anchor is easily reachable by lowering/rappelling from the Cannabis Sportiva anchors. In talking with Kent, it was an impressive lead by Dan Hare without cams. I think the climbing is excellent and should now see more traffic. A lead of this route would be serious as Tony has stated. Nov 9, 2006

I found just having the draw hung was enough to make the clip reasonable. I also assume that the route setter was stick clipping the first bolt or putting in pro before attempting to hang the draw. I felt on the start if you stayed just right of the first two bolts it felt safe and pretty cool. My partner went left at second bolt, and it looked really unpleasant and not as safe. We didn't know it was a mixed climb and did the crack section to the last bolt with no pro, which is dead easy, but a fall would be brutal. As I was attempting to clip the last draw before the anchor, I stood up and hit my head on the roof almost blowing my feet and taking the fall. Thank God I didn't!!!! Bring The GEAR or be prepared to climb 5.6R crack, and watch your head before the clip. Yikes!!! I'd give it THREE STARS for an adventure route. It gets sun late. Nov 16, 2016

Total POS. Poorly bolted (can't clip first bolt from the good stance, even if you are really tall. Ledgefall potential above 2nd bolt on weird bulgy slab, lame traverse into dirty crack (WTF???). Total pile. If it was bolted better, it would maybe be 1 star, but the moronic bolting totally kills it. Oct 8, 2012

There is good gear down and right of the first bolt although not obvious once you do the easy scrambling trying to reach the first bolt. I would agree the first bolt is not well placed. The movement on this route is good once you get into it, although it is a bit licheny since it appears to get little traffic. I placed cams from tips to number 1 Camalot and a few nuts to supplement the bolts. Worth doing if in the area and when it cleans up a bit more. Apr 4, 2011

You need to commit to the opening moves before you can reach the first bolt. If the first bolt was 6" or 12" lower this would be a much better route. I didn't see any good gear placements just below the first bolt, and it seemed a bit strange to commit with a bad fall potential on what ended up being the crux of the entire route. May 9, 2009

This route is pretty good. Take gear. Crux is low and kinda one move. Definitely not a bomb. Sep 27, 2008

Helmet recommended for belayer. Rock isn't very clean. May 15, 2008

May have left a La Sportiva Katana Lace Up at the bottom of Animation.... Give me a call at 3077304933 or email andyrenz5@gmail.com (might not be in immediate phone service) if you find it. You're the best! Nov 15, 2017

A great pitch with a technical finger jam to undercling/ lieback crux that has shut down some pretty honed climbers. I first redpointed this climb in 2008 & have repeated it almost every year since. It never feels easy. I always do it as a sport climb starting on Joint Venture for 6 bolts. Below 7th bolt on Joint Venture, step left around the arete. Unless you clip this bolt, you are very run-out, but it's easy, & there is a huge jug around the arete to pull up & clip bolt at the start of the difficulties on Beast Food. If you do clip 7th bolt on JA, you'll have to clip out of it. Ascending this left-leaning, flared groove begins with a good lieback hold. The crux is at 8th bolt. With a long Petzl draw on 9th bolt, you can clip it before executing the crux. It isn't over until you have the jugs above the anchor. The final moves above the last bolt are hard & use a wide hand jam. There are a total of 10 bolts /2 Fixe rings. There are 4 bolt (not 5) along the left-leaning groove that Beast Food ascends. Nov 13, 2016

May have left a La Sportiva Katana Lace Up at the bottom of Animation.... Give me a call at 3077304933 or email andyrenz5@gmail.com (might not be in immediate phone service) if you find it. You're the best! Nov 15, 2017

From Global Gorilla if you go right , into the forest and follow the path of least resistance (there is no trail and some bush-whacking is needed) or follow the cliff up for an equally adventurous approach. Find this route starting on the left wall of an overgrown gully with a nice rock for your belayer to sit on and a tree anchor. You might want to bring a stick-clip or some gear to protect the move up to the first bolt. The second pitch doesn't really require any gear but the bolt at the crux is difficult to clip if you are under six + feet tall (I recommend a stiffy). Also bring a wire brush and goggles. Jul 15, 2004

Does anyone know where this route is? How far right of New Beginnings? May 12, 2004

Not that sweet but kinda cool. Considerably harder in my opinion than Piles of Trials. Worth doing if you're there IMO. Jun 27, 2015

Without stemming is so awesome! Rifle style, tons of kneebar beta! 12c/d is definitely the grade if you don't use the wall to the right. That being said, either way you climb this rig it is super fun and has some classic knee bars. I counted 3 in about 10 feet! :) I thought stemming was off, also, until the guy that bolted it came up and started telling me about it! Jan 7, 2014

The flake/sidepull feature just before the first roof broke off this morning. The BLOCK hit me in the HEAD, but luckily it left a usable feature when it departed. After regaining my wits, and cleaning up the blood, we checked to see and the route still goes. Maybe it's solid 12c now. Apr 8, 2010

I am also glad to find out that without the stemming is 12+. I didn't think the stemming was on to begin with, got on it, figured out my beta, and thought it was most definitely harder than 12b. Really, really fun route. Rifle-like climbing on granite. Found both left and right knee bars, and this time they fit my leg size. I was really excited to find them. Nov 8, 2009

Better than it looks, not as contrived as it looks, more independent than it looks...lots of quality movement in a small package; clearly, the corner should not be used...and it's not really that tempting...it's hard enough to get pumped in BoCan as it is. Full Disclosure: Chris is a friend of mine. Jul 17, 2009

The crack in the corner, and everything to the right of the corner should be considered off. Anything else disrespects the roof. It's a great roof, albeit squeezed. The first 2 or 3 bolts are the same as Joint Venture. Then moving out right into the big roof, there's some powerful shouldery moves, a long reach or jump to the matchable crimp out left, and some good knee tricknology to surmount the final roof section. I'd like to add another bolt after standing up above the roof instead of climbing the rest of that arete to the upper anchor I'd make an (optional) midway anchor. Felt something like 12+. Jul 15, 2009

The stemming is over after the traverse right. Once you step back left the business begins, but there are several Rifle-like moves that are less than obvious that make it pretty reasonable. Glad you like the route, Mike. Jul 2, 2009

Thanks Chris. Good to know...thought I was losing a step. Although, the next move after hugging the block seemed really hard too. You don't continue to stem, right? Great line. Jul 1, 2009

It has been done without using the obvious stem. 12c/d. Jul 1, 2009

Wait a tick, so the dihedral is "on" for stemming/rest below the roof crux? Has the direct line, minus the stem been done? Seems more direct and harder for sure. Jul 1, 2009

Oh boy! What a fun route! Nice climbing with great cracks available from hand-sized to finger-sized. Great overhanging stuff at the top, too. The finger cracks below the big horn are just fantastic! Nov 26, 2017

The right anchor bolt is spinning, I didn't have a wrench with me. Everything else looks good. Nov 25, 2017

May have left a La Sportiva Katana Lace Up at the bottom of Animation.... Give me a call at 3077304933 or email andyrenz5@gmail.com (might not be in immediate phone service) if you find it. You're the best! Nov 15, 2017

Gave this a go yesterday and loved it! Definitely a bit run out at the start, but it's not really hard. I brought a small nut rack and #0.4-#1 Camalots and found that sufficient; however, some small cams may be easier for the first placement, which was an awkward stance. The top half is way too cool. Loved the dynamic moves at the top. This climb made my day as well! .10c/d and probably easier if you are taller. Feb 6, 2017

I used cams #0.3-2 for the first section and they worked perfectly. I was a little far off the ground when I got my first piece in, but it was easy climbing. I think the "5.11 crux" was more like 10b/c. Maybe it is height-dependent? This was a very fun climb and kinda made my day. Mar 16, 2014

The last 2 or 3 bolts are spinning, as well the anchor bolts. Feels safe, but if someone can take a wrench up there, it would be better. Great climb! Jun 21, 2013

Double finger jam to a semi-dynamic throw under the anchors, 5.Fun. Jul 7, 2012

The last couple moves are quite creative and made this route. NOTE FOR SELF-RAPPEL: Ya might want to set up a trolley or something, otherwise you'll be swinging hard if ya need to unclip your draws on the way down. Jun 28, 2012

The prudent leader might bring a nut sack?!? EASY, Robertson. Let's let the ladies have a go, too. Fabulous fun climb for the grade, which I place at a couple letter grades below 11a, especially if'n you're tall and long armed. The punch all comes at the very end, with generous bolts and some THANK GOD holds on top. Takes sequence, though--gotta hit the finish right. (No cheap beta; it's either left hand or right. You gotta 50/50 chance, sucka!) Apr 2, 2010

Don't be fooled by the featured start. Be prepared to be a little run out on small gear heading up to the bolts. The first piece of gear was well off the ground and I felt was strenuous to place. Small cams are advisable. May 21, 2009

I thought this was a 10ish route. Probably 10c or d even with the left crack. A few balancy moves followed by some beat your chest ape moves. The horn makes it just plain fun and the bolts are very well placed. Kudos to the bolter. Aug 18, 2008

ALERT: If you climb Joint Venture first to the bolted anchor and then traverse back left to 'Cannabis Sportiva', there is a big, TV-sized, loose block about 6' left of the anchor sitting on a ledge. It looks like a great hand jam behind it to make the traverse but - DO NOT PULL ON IT!! We would have thrown this to the ground, but were worried about it eventually rolling to the highway. It certainly needs to come off though. May 8, 2008

Kudos to Matt Robertson for a classic route description! I found 13 reeferences... Apr 9, 2007

Sweet pitch!! The moves off the ground were fun and that carries through to the rest of the route. I took green/yellow/red Aliens and .75/1/2 Camalots for the start, and found that to be fine for gear on the lower portion of the route. May 15, 2006

The Rolofson guide says the last moves are 10b if you use the crack a few feet to the left or 11a if you don't. That may explain the difference in opinion as to the rating. It's pretty contrived NOT to use the crack on the left. Why not do it both ways? Climb the 10 crack, step back down, then climb it direct. Dec 30, 2005

Fun route, and a gimme at 11a. Jul 18, 2003

Starting the route proper just barely to the right of the roof seemed balancy and tricky, especially right off the deck. I'm sure you can walk up the gully further right.....enjoyable route with crack climber feel up high. I'm surprised how many bolts there are. The finger locks were bomber; felt like 10a at Eldo. May 14, 2003

Per my buddy from Canada, this route is very kind in a couple of ways, eh? Great climb but a bit overrated and probably climbs around a 10c/d at most. Feb 22, 2003

The horn that Jon mentioned seemed very out-of-place on this route. But I welcomed it with tired hands. A really cool route. The line more or less goes up the middle of the picture below. The bolts start right about where the sun is shining. Where the sun don't shine is the crack system. A few smaller cams or stoppers would take care of this pretty easily. Enjoy this climb it is one that about any intermediate climbe can do. Aug 30, 2002

It's possible to heel-hook the horn to get some additional leverage while trying to pull the burly .11a move; Laura Black tried it on Saturday, 6/29/02, and it seemed to give her the extra bit of "oomph" weaklings like me need to pull harder moves. This is a thoroughly enjoyable climb, made more enjoyable by the steadily-increasing difficulty. It might be just me, but it appears to me that the left bolt at the top of this route could probably stand to be replaced. Jul 1, 2002

Not like I'm capable of climbing it, but I think it is sad that it is chipped. Jul 11, 2009

Nice one, Chris! This climb is surprisingly good. The final crux sequence is anything but straight forward, but the sequence that emerges is freakin' rad-iculous! Jul 10, 2009

Was here today and climbed this thing, traversed in from the side as the roof gets wet with drip. Guy went up just before me and pulled the fixed pin out by hand, so NO MORE PIN on this thing, blue Mastercam or small nuts to supplement what it protected. Good climb, face didn't feel much harder than 10d to me but was heady on such "smaller" gear, fun for Animal World trad if you bring up a rack. May 26, 2015

Climbed the direct start last week by climbing around the easy way to clip the first bolt. It felt like a reachy V4 boulder problem and involved pulling on at least two blocks which may come out someday. The upper crack had interesting sections, but before the last bolt I used a hold that was covered in some black tar/poop and it felt like the rock quality was questionable. This route is worth it if you're feeling like placing some gear, but is probably the lowest quality route I've done at Animal World. May 25, 2009

Climbed it last year sometime.... I don't know about the opening roof, I tried it on TR afterwards, but skipped it on lead, climbing just around to the right. However, I didn't use any of Free Willy. Found Alien placements and such near the pin (which I didn't trust either). After moving past the pin and up, I managed to grab something that came off almost bowling-ball sized in my hand, and had to throw down, sending belayers scampering. Adventurous given the sporty nature of the area. Sep 3, 2007

The sketchy start just changed a lot; most of the starting roof recently collapsed. I was there last Friday and it was fine, but I walk by the area today and there is a large pile of rock spread everywhere. Somewhat surprisingly, the first bolt is still intact, but the rock that stayed up in the affected area looks pretty sketchy. Be careful hiking or climbing by this area! May 30, 2006

On a historical note, the first ascent team placed no pins or bolts and led the route on all natural gear. (Good job lads!) The route traversed in from the right climbed the crack past the current middle crux (at the pin and bolt) and then finished up and right in the chimney gully just left of Free Willie's anchors.Does anyone have any information about the direct start or finish? May 13, 2004

If I could give this climb 1/2 a star, I would. The best climbing on the pitch is the last ten feet. Otherwise, I found it worthy to do only if you are somewhat desperate to do gear routes you haven't done yet, like me. Dougald's beta about clipping the second bolt of Free Willie won't keep you from decking if you fall before getting gear in. Even climbing the directissima won't keep you from decking if you fall before getting gear. However, the gear is good when the opportunity first appears. It gets more spicy after the pin and bolt. May 12, 2004

This felt a touch harder and funner than Old Dihedral. I brought a rack to 3" and felt fine, but I could see a few places for some larger gear. The left face was a bit scaly in places probably from not seeing too much traffic. Aug 14, 2017

For the beginning trad leader, if no one is looking to get on Triple Play, there are a couple of bolts that you can clip on the way up to supplement your placements. Jun 27, 2016

I did not see the comment above about anchors being added, so we used the anchor on Triple Play. Jul 1, 2014

Leave the cams at home on this one. It is easily protected with hand to fist-sized hexes and a set of stoppers. Rock quality in the crack is questionable, although there are bomber jams and good edges all the way up. Aug 29, 2012

The dihedral crack turned out to be wider than anticipated and for most of the climb. I'd advise bringing at least 1 if not 2 #4s. Two #3s would have been handy as well. Using my largest piece, a #3, early left me with nothing to protect below and through the bulge. I chose to downclimb and back clean instead of taking the risk. May 28, 2012

OK climb, very convenient for TR'ing 'Triple Play'. I used: 2 #8 Metolius 1 #7 Metolius 1 clear Alien 1 black Alien #4, 2 & 1 Lowe Balls (way up high in the roof crack near the end). Aug 28, 2009

Permanant anchors have been added to the top of this route. Jul 20, 2009

At the bulge, you can get in a #1 or #2 cam before you pull over. The move is fun with good friction stemming and decent hand jams. The rest of the climb is fun and blocky, and much easier (5.5-5.6). Jul 3, 2008

Protection: larger cams near the bottom (2-4 inches) and then one small stopper for the last few feet. May 1, 2008

Unpleasant, awkward, burly start (12ish) is followed by quite a bit of excellent climbing on perfect rock up higher. The slab/arete crux feels around 12- by itself. Without the opening boulder problem and with some more thoughtful/less excessive bolting, this route would deserve 4*. The golden varnished rock in the middle is some of the best in the canyon. Sep 14, 2017

I thought this route was excellent. The first 3 bolts of this route are not the most classic or fun but goes rather quickly if you can use thin liebacks. The rest of the route is AMAZING. Even if you have to clip up, I would do it. I felt that the route was in the 12a range, because it had a ton of rests and was more technical than powerful. Easy top but a little balancy. Overall, a great route! Amazing climbing!!! May 26, 2015

The slab climbing on this rig is highly unique. I found myself getting pumped out due to the continuous squeezing and sidepulling while using crappy feet. While the intial crux is certainly harder on a move by move basis, I felt unlocking the 40 ft of continuous slab with a final 12a section was the true crux for me. Oct 27, 2014

Not 12a, but call it whatever you want. The first crux was a burly little section. Great route though with lots of varied climbing. I'm impressed. I overlooked this route every time I went to the upper tier but was surprised that it climbed as good as all the 4 star classics around it. Do it! May 9, 2013

Maybe it was the specific day I was on this route, but I found it much harder than 12a compared to the other 12a's and 12b's in the area. Harder than Animal Riots Activist; harder than the second pitch of Global Gorilla, little harder than Piles of Trials, much harder than Days of Future Passed (which might not be 12a). Maybe I'll change my mind on the grade after a second go, but for now I sticking with harder than 12a, and a hard 12b. Oct 4, 2010

A Boulder Canyon route that actually feels hard for the grade. I think the crux start is very difficult and hard for the onsight. Great climb, one of the best 12-s in B Canyon. May 22, 2008

I thought this climb was very high quality. The start is tough, thin, and the feet are tricky. There was at least one 11+ section on the slab, unless I missed something. This climb requires a lot of draws, 19 including two for the anchor. A 70 M rope is helpful if you don't have someone to follow the route to clean the draws. Aug 16, 2004

Seemed hard for 12a in the opening. Good hands in the lay-away start, but marginal smears for the feet. After the fourth clip things settle down to thin, thoughtful climbing in a laboratory safe environment. The best feature is probably its length. A 60 meter cord just drops you back to the base. Jun 9, 2003

A cool variation to this pulls the 12a crux then traverses left into Animal Magnetism... I think the guide calls in Cujo Magnetism or something like that. The crux is very technical and thin but didn't feel any harder than 12a to me. Jul 11, 2002

D'Antonio and Hand must have old man climbing syndrome to call this a 12a (no wonder he doesn't put FAs in his books). Jun 6, 2016

That is so interesting, Jack Sparrow, I would love to see how you climb this! I'm honestly really curious now. I thought every route you just named were grades harder, actually the route to the right of DofFP, Threshold of a Dream, was harder...interesting how one can see a route so differently per climber. Well, hope to see you around someday, Jack Sparrow! Feb 28, 2015

So I've redpointed Wet Dream, Animal Riots Activist, The Devil, and Strange Science. I still think all those routes were easier for me as they took me between 2 and 5 tries, compared to ten on this. Been on constant Gardner, it feels harder than this, same with Joy Ride. It's probably not 12b, but I don't think it's 5.11 on the Boulder Canyon grading scale. Like I said, could just be a nemesis route for me, but I have a hard time taking 11b/c. Regardless of the grade, it's a great piece of stone with quality climbing the whole way. Feb 24, 2015

Train4Life, please tell me you were joking when you said, "this is a Yosemite move right here." Debating whether a route is 5.11 or 12- is silly enough (is there really a difference?), but calling something a "Yosemite move" is just too good! Feb 22, 2015

Jack Sparrow, I appreciate your comment, very respectable. I will respectfully disagree with your disagreement. I think you should try Animal Riots Activist and some solid 12a's like the ones I mentioned and see if this meets up with it. Try Tits Up at Shelf for a 12b comparison or The Constant Gardner or Joy Ride 12b for comparisons. I thought Empire was a bit soft for 12a, since it basically has one move even relatively close to 12a. Feb 21, 2015

Hey Train4life, I will respectfully disagree with you. Could have been my personal experience with the climb, but the one move on this merits the 12a rating in my opinion. My beta involved a horrible left foot and a left hand cross to a small crystal crimp that you needed to lean in on to reach a good right hand. For me, when I compare this sequence to every other classic 12- in Boulder Canyon, it holds its grade. I'm comparing to routes like Empire of the Fenceless, Lucky Strikes, The Good The Bad and The Jacked, Prince of Thieves. Maybe I'm missing something super obvious at the crux, not sure. This climb took me ten tries when I was consistently climbing 12 - on my second go. Maybe it's 5.11 but my complete, anti-style, nemesis route. Feb 17, 2015

I'm going to give my opinion, and I may come off as a MP mean man, but I'm just going to lay out what I think. I think this route is really in the 11b/c region. I think that Reefer Madness has a similar crux in Clear Creek. This may be a little harder because you have to figure it out, but it is not bad at all. I think the person that put 12+ onsight is a little off. This thing is totally onsight-able, and I have seen friends do that very easily. Try Animal Riots Activist right around the corner or Wet Dream at Wall of '90's or Hot Beach at Shelf if you want some comparisons for this to 12a's! I would even say that Strange Science (11d) and The Devil (11d), both at Avalon, are harder than this line! That's just my opinion...take it or leave it! Feb 9, 2015

Likely easier for folks with bigger hands; I got a reasonable lock at the crux which made the moves easier than for those who have to hold a gaston. Either way, the business is so short, I'm not sure it earns the 12-. Mar 17, 2014

Is the chalky rail system about 3-4 feet left of the bolts (and the crack just left of the bolt line) on, or are you only supposed to use the thin crack just next to the bolts? I either really lucked out with the sequence or used a whole slew of holds that weren't on. Apr 14, 2012

It feels really difficult until you figure out the move. Then its relatively easy. So like 12+ OS, 11+ RP. May 27, 2011

I really enjoy this route. There are some 5.10 moves getting to the crux. The crux is sequency and challenging, and then there is a nice bold overhanging section to the anchors. Super beta: the crux comes after clipping bolt 5, starting from the iron cross position. The next placement of the right foot is key--don't put it on the good hold, but rather on a poorer hold right below. Now cross the left foot through and put it on the good foothold, laybacking against the right hand. Position the left hand high in the crack, get the right foot on the good edge up and to the right, and crank a Gaston with the left hand, standing high and reaching for the obvious chalked horn right of bolt 6. Don't bother with any intermediates for the right hand--just go straight to the horn. Sep 21, 2010

Don't know why, but I couldn't figure the crux out. Then watched my girlfriend do it. Went back up and sent it, no problem. Just gotta find the right sequence through the crux. Pretty fun stuff. Sep 1, 2010

This is a fun route, there are at least half a dozen sequences for the crux section. Oct 20, 2008

We placed a bolt where the fixed nut had historically been. Also replaced the bolt below this one as it was a spinner that could not be tightened. Apr 24, 2008

I had noticed the nut was missing yesterday. I just replaced it with a new one about 2 months ago because the one that had been there since we put the route in looked real bad. I guess I did not smash it in hard enough. Too bad people have to steal things. Maybe we will put another bolt in there. Apr 22, 2008

Gear alert. The fixed nut is missing. As we had no gear besides quickdraws with us, and unwilling to commit without that bit of gear, we traversed from the top of Free Willie, to the anchors on Days, hung the draws, including extended slings off the crux bolt. Apr 22, 2008

The fixed nut is questionable. Bring some small stoppers or a small cam to back this up if you are worried clipping the bolt at the crux. I couldn't figure out how to transfer my weight onto the hold at the bolt at the crux move. After that you are pretty much done. Jul 15, 2007

Fun but short crux. Definitely easier than Feeding The Beast right around the corner. Sep 11, 2006

This was a pretty sweet route!! A good candidate for a 1st lead @ the grade. I don't really down grade routes but. . . I've had harder times on a few 11+s than I did with this. What do I know this was my first 12 lead. The moves are awesome though!! GEAR ALERT- as of 6-6-06 almost EVERY bolt was a spinner!! I'll try to get back for the red point this week so, while I'm there I'll wrench on those bolts. Also, the fixed nut is not too good looking - the cable has separated from the nut itself (more like a cable wrapped around chock). The moves to the next bolt aren't too hard or far. Jun 7, 2006

I thought the crux on this was desperate and thin. The climbing above and below was more fun. Good route. Isn't there a piece of fixed gear on this thing? Aug 26, 2004

Actually I wanted to call it "Days of Future Past" after a Moody Blues song. This was around the same time we did "Piles of Trials" which was from a Moody Blues refrain: Face Piles of Trials with Smiles. This was because my ACL exploded at the base of the climb and I had to come out of the hospital for the FA. For historical information, FA 9 Feb 1996. Oct 27, 2003

Terrific route involving a semi hidden hold at the crux. I thought Bob called it "Days of Future Passed." Oct 27, 2003

I left an Ipod Nano here yesterday April 23rd 2010.... If you found it, would you please please get in touch with me... you will get infinite Karma points! 4252680126. Jesse Apr 23, 2010

Evolution Revolution is also the name a Udo Neuman climbing video that has some of the best Euro footage ever. Aug 15, 2007

Route Name Trivia: Evolution Revolution was the name of the Chimpanzee band from the old Saturday morning tv show, Lance Link Secret Chimp. Classic. No doubt Ken and Mark remember that show. Aug 15, 2007

The slab, as well as the start, are much trickier than they look. I think the roof overhead gives the illusion that this section isn't very steep. 12b/c seems about right... we thought it was harder than the crux of Global Gorilla. May 27, 2004

From the top of ER, there is a dihedral that goes up and left (5.7-5.8?) that gets you to the top of H of D. Bring a few pieces (large nuts, TCUs). From here, you can either TR Hands or lead the upper 10a headwall (5 bolts). Fun section of face with black knobs and slopey edges and dishes. Kinda dirty still... If you really want, you can set a TR on Animal Instinct and Sun Dog while youre at it. fun stuff. Caution: the following is some beta regarding ER, the second clip in the roof is not that bad if you stem way out right, and have the lip-fingerlock with your right hand. Jul 25, 2003

ER is a subvertical slab that climbs up to a no hands rest that is followed by a short, burly sequence to the corner of a roof, after which it calms down completely. One and one half stars is probably reasonable given the proximity of GG and Hands. However, I wouldn't call it a great route; I'd call it a good route. Jun 27, 2003

ER felt really burly in the roof. Stacking up under the roof leaves you with two, perhaps three at the most, hand transitions leading to the corner of the roof where terrific jug awaits. It seemed as though the hardest thing was to stabilize the barn-door when standing up under the roof. Can't ask for better pro - gives you a top rope through most of the crux. The run up to the anchors after turning the roof was on jugs. The opening 5.11 was more awkward than it looked to be from the ground; just thrutch through the corner. Two stars probably fits. Jun 26, 2003

This route is excellent!! Stays dry in a downpour. Long runner on the bolt before the roof to reduce drag. My book suggests gear, but with 9 bolts, you dont need it. Perfect stone. Jun 16, 2003

This route is excellent!! Stays dry in a downpour. Long runner on the bolt before the roof to reduce drag. My book suggests gear, but with 9 bolts, you dont need it. Perfect stone. A good start is with the first 2 clips of Global Gorilla and straight up to the second bolt of ER. Jun 16, 2003

This climb has one 5.10a/b move if you go straight up through the large overhang instead of heading right. The holds are all there, but the move is dynamic and committing. Apr 12, 2008

If you have the gear, this is the most classic warm up line on the cliff. Mar 17, 2007

May have left a La Sportiva Katana Lace Up at the bottom of Animation.... Give me a call at 3077304933 or email andyrenz5@gmail.com (might not be in immediate phone service) if you find it. You're the best! Nov 15, 2017

Rockfall to be cautious of here! Yesterday a large rock the size of an exercise ball fell right onto the crowd of bystanders. 5 people dove out of the way and were lucky to not be killed. The only girl with a helmet on was ironically enough hit in the head by the rock, but she was ok. This was a good lesson for me, and please be careful out there! Aug 7, 2017

Super fun route. I went up and right and had a blast. Didn't feel easy that way necessarily, especially getting to the anchors. 5.12a. Oct 16, 2015

Both my partner and I thought that going right was easier, though more contrived and less logical. Fun route! Jun 28, 2008

The funky moves staying left are pretty technical (cough cough, scummy kneebar) but what sells me on the idea that this is indeed a 5.12 is the vicsious pump you have by the end! Good climb- start on Joint Venture, clip one of the anchor bolts, then continue, placing a cam or two in the corner, and up to the top. A single 70M gets you down with rope to spare. I suspect a 60M will do as well, but have not confirmed. May 18, 2008

The crux getting into the slot on the 12b section is really strange! Felt like some sort of off width move, even though there wasn't any off width. hmm.... Also, I veered right into the old 5.7 for sufficiently easy ground to run out the distance between the bolts. The hand traverse from the old 5.7 dihedral out to the first bolt on Beast was exposed, but the jugs were huge! Sep 11, 2004

The grading discrepancy is explained by the fact that the bolts on this route protect 2 different lines. Climbing the groove left of the bolts is continuously difficult and hard 12a or 12b. Climbing the blunt arete right of the bolts and angling back to the anchors also provides good climbing at 11+ or easy 12a. Both variations are worth doing. Oct 27, 2003

Rolofson's book also calls this 12b, and I agree. I don't know why it originally got labelled as 12a. Jun 25, 2003

In my opinion, this route is a sandbag at 5.12a and is probably more fairly rated at 12b. After a technical crux getting up into the slot the pitch stays strenuous including clipping the anchors. Jun 23, 2003

Alternate description from redundant posting [Added by Ed.] Beast Food is really just a short but excellent second pitch, or alternate finish, to either the Old Dihedral (5.7) or Joint Venture (5.11a). So you can use either of these two routes to get to Beast Food.From the midpoint anchors on Joint Venture, you can step immediately left into the crack, which is not difficult and can be protected by a couple of #1-#2 friends OR you can go up Joint Venture and clip the next bolt after the midpoint anchors, and then step left and clip the first bolt on Beast Food. If you were to continue up the rightmost bolt line here rather than stepping left, it would take you to the upper anchors of Joint Venture. After all that explanation, here is my recommendation: skip the gear and the old dihedral, and climb the excellent first half of Joint Venture, which has nice 11a moves for the first 4 bolts. Then climb up and clip the next bolt after the midpoint anchors, and step left on jugs to start Beast Food. Beast Food burls up a continuously overhanging headwall for about 15-20 feet of strenuous sidepulls, past 4 bolts to anchors at 85 feet.The moves are difficult and the feet are generally bad and hard to find.When you finally break out of the sidepulls, just under the anchors, you feel like you are out of the woods. However, you soon find that the holds are a little slopey and there are bad feet, so even the very last move before you clip the anchors is a bit tenuous. Lots of fun and great stone! This thing would be 3 stars if it were longer. Linking it with the first half of Joint Venture makes for a long and reasonably continuous line. Stays sunny until the afternoon. May 20, 2003

Another classic link-up climbs the first half of 'Animal Instinct', then traverses left on the ledge and into the crux of 'Hands of Destiny' and on to the top. Again, long slings are quite useful. Dec 6, 2014

This climb is awesome with a very cool, bouldery crux. Beta alert: for the crux sequence, everyone I've seen climb this does a very big throw to a lieback pinch that is very bad until you position correctly. I've never been able to do this move that way. I hit the good, sloped, right hand crimp left hand on sloper. I then bump left hand to a hidden crimp undercling, right hand goes to a flat sidepull. Then I bring my left foot way high to a hellhook just under left hand. I then statically cross left hand to a crimp sidepull in the seam then switch your heel to a toe hook (this is the crux for me). Then move left hand to lieback pinch release toe hook and throw to the jug. For me, this route is solid 12c. I have a hard time even taking the slash grade, because the crux alone is V5 either way you do it. Also, don't underestimate the upper crack, it's just tricky enough to spit you off. Awesome climb, should get done more. May 30, 2013

I was actually quite impressed with this route. I have always overlooked it given that 2 mega classics sit just to the right of this line. The crux is a bit weird and scrunched, and there is super fun pumpy 5.11 climbing after it. You don't need gear getting to the first clip. It's super chill, just climb with caution through the rotten rock. All in all, a decent route and one you should get on one day if you have done all of the other routes on the wall. Feb 3, 2013

For the flash, maybe three plan trainings is OK. Clippings, clippings, then problems, then is easy? Mar 20, 2012

That is high quality Sven-speak, not too much, not too little, just right. Mar 20, 2012

In Sven Speak: this route is very tough for the fingers; I did not make flash. You must arrive to the fourth bolt at five meters with a preparation for crimping. It can be helpful also to prepare a long sling or double draw already on this bolt to facilitate clipping. Above here, you will find many meters of fun and pumping 6c (5.11) that is not so tough for the fingers after all. Mar 19, 2012

Though it appears this route still sees few ascents, it has cleaned up quite nicely based on previous comments. The crux sequence is low on the route, making it feel more like a V4 boulder problem to a 5.11. Still, there are plenty of interesting, heads-up sequences throughout the pitch making for a truly worthy line. 5 stars! Mar 29, 2010

Not sure I'd call it one of the best routes at the crag, however, it is worth a go. In its current state, it is rather unpleasant due to seemingly zero cleaning. Look out below or risk an endless showering of dirt, lichen, crumblies, and guano..... Apr 28, 2003

I wouldn't call the rock quality on the lower section through the crux excellent. Maybe after a few dozen ascents it could be ok; for now it's quite flakey and dirty-- a far cry from that on 'Hands' and the rest of the popular routes at upper Animal World. Apr 19, 2003

Did this today for the first time. I admit that I did it with the bolts pre-clipped, but it still felt it was kinda soft for the grade. Compare this to Supernatural across the creek at Avalon at 10d. Supernatural is harder, just saying.... It is Bocan after all.... Sep 30, 2017

Very fun route. The crux for me was clipping the last bolt, and then that mantel was so awkward for me. I tried the "beached whale move", but that mantel is too small to make any progress upwards. I eventually fell and then started from directly below the last bolt and made the final move up to the last hold before the anchors. I thought it was going to be a crimp, but it was an OMG jug. I also did not see any blocks marked with an X.... Did it fall down or did I just miss it? Jul 17, 2017

I disagree that this is nicely protected. Not an issue for me, but I'd imagine someone breaking into 11s this could get super heady. I'm surprised that for how much traffic this route gets that the ancient looking spinner bolts have not been replaced. Also, isn't it time to remove the "x" on the block. It's been yarded on by all sizes of people and has yet to move. Cruel joke to say the best hold on the route is off, just because. Jun 30, 2017

I left a draw (Petzl Spirit) on the last bolt before the anchors on this - it got too dark and I had to lower because no headlamp :/ I left the draw on September 22, 2016 in the evening. I don't have a chance to get it today (Th 23rd). If you snag it, could you please send it to me? My cell is 914.364.6142 and my email is jcranston92@gmail.com. Thanks! Sep 23, 2016

Awesome fun climbing. It totally goes on gear to! RPs and cams to 0.75. It's an exciting unprotected traverse until you clip the chains! Feb 26, 2016

This makes for a sweet trad line for those wanting to not use the bolts. Offset cams are nice, a #3 Camalot protects the traverse and mantle up and left and the beginning of traverse. Aug 1, 2015

Has anybody climbed the bulge in between Free Willie and Days of Future Past? It looks like a really cool sequence off of a foothold on Free Willie to more small crimps. I would love to hear if others have done this line! Mar 21, 2015

Garrett Gillest on "Free Willie" age 8, not quite to the crux. Aug 25, 2014

I am 6' tall and had no issue with the first reach, but it felt a little like cheating. I was able to move around the "X" block with no problem. On a less cool note, I did the "beached whale" style finish and then pulled on the anchor. Not my best moment, but I was pumped. Great climb! Mar 16, 2014

Great route and incredibly sustained. The big flake marked with an x seems fairly stable (epoxy?); however, making those traverse moves without the use of it seems to make the finishing moves substantially more difficult (still very doable). Either way, a must do! Jun 26, 2013

Bolt 5 right below the traverse right is looking pretty beat up. Jun 21, 2013

Best warm-up in town! Feb 14, 2013

Climbed FW yesterday. The anchors chains are getting worn, apparently from too many people TRing directly and lowering off. Jun 8, 2012

Dropped one of my Evolv Talons at the base and left it last night (8/8/11). I went back to get it, but it was gone. If you found it, I'd really like it back. It was brand new! noah.gostout@gmail.com Aug 9, 2011

This climb is super pumpy on lead. I have never done the mantel, I just put a heel up then THROW to a left hand jug, or if I can't make it, there is a good sloper there that I work with then pump. Stand up, and you're done. There is a cool little dyno in it as well, which totally makes the climb. I'm 5'6". Jun 29, 2010

I did this route on gear today (looking for a little adventure, and definitely got it!). I was wondering if anyone else has done that before? PS. I'm not proposing to tear the bolts out, I definitely think they should be kept in, this route is too fun to exclude it from people without a rack. Apr 8, 2010

Kevin, When I first TRed the line before placing the bolts, I did the "beached whale" move when the feet cut loose on the traverse. Hence the name. Jul 14, 2008

I've always been confused as to why this is called "Free Willie". The movie to which the name refers was called "Free Willy", so am I missing some pun or euphemism besides the "beached whale" allusion? A minor quibble, I know. I've never used the block marked 'X'; is the route easier that way? Avoiding it and using the traverse isn't that hard but seems harder than 10. The difficult part about the traverse is that the feet are fairly nonexistent and you have to commit to the ledge and cut your feet loose. This is the best part of the route and this is the point during which the famed ECB--Euro Chalk Blow--should be executed. For those not familiar with the maneuver: after cutting the feet loose, hang casually with one arm, radiating insousiance, reach back and chalk up, grabbing a fistful of chalk, then blow through your fist to create a chalk cloud. At this point, for best effect, a photographer, preferably situated at the anchors of an adjacent climb, should snap a shot in pure 80's style. Wearing spandex improves the effect. Jul 14, 2008

We replaced the crux (last) bolt today. Apr 24, 2008

Thanks to Greg and the "Civil Service Retirement System" for the new bolt anchors. Short person beta for the getting the hold above the 4th bolt... left heel hook in the rectangular incut; right foot not far from that; left hand on good hold. Then stretch for the jug with right hand. Unless you're brave enough to just dyno for it (I'm not). Oct 20, 2007

Thanks Greg! Anchor is bomber. May 2, 2007

I fixed the anchor problem by adding 2 bolts with chains. Funding for this was provided by CSRS. CSRS is Civil Service Retirement System. Oct 2, 2006

I have climbed this route many times doing the beached whale mantle. Today I was short on gas so instead of the mantle I continued the hand traverse to the right where I was able to stand up casually at the right end of the ledge. Highly recommended. Jun 22, 2006

This route rocks, I'm 5'4" and had to dyno for the hold above the fourth clip, but I made it. It's a hell of a jump! I couldn't reach the chalked mark up left so I had to do a little crawling myself. The anchors left bolt is kinda weak (I wouldn't TR it from the anchors). Jun 19, 2006

A 4 stars and very fun route with an exquisite mantle just before the top anchors. Awesome! It's a little discrimatory for those that are less than 5'8", at the 4th bolt half way up the climb before the corner break, the move is reachy in nature. Other than that, it's a must do at Animal World. Pure fun, I had a blast! Will do it again, that's for sure! :) Bruno Jun 3, 2006

Awesome route!! The traverse to the anchors was sweet!!! I went to the right and still had to belly flop a bit but, saved the onsight!! May 15, 2006

RE: Free Willie and the crux bolt: As of May 15, 2005, the hanger at the crux traverse, just under the platform before the anchor, is spinning on the bolt. The bolt looks as if it has wiggled out of the rock a bit. There's a narrow quicklink there now where it looks like somebody bailed out before the anchor. I fell off the platform moves and the hanger held, but this bolt/hangar should [probably] be replaced. Also: the infamous flake at this crux has been reinforced with epoxy (had time to look while gritting my teeth avoiding it). After the fall I gave the thing a test pull or two and it seems to be pretty solid. Still, better safe than sorry and there's a couple different ways to get up the thing, so might as well avoid it. Just my two cents. Thanks. May 18, 2005

I managed to not have to mantel at all. Look up above the shelf thing and reach for a good, postive hold about 4 feet up, sort of on a mini arete. One of the best routes I've been on in the canyon, simply because of the steepness and bountiful positive holds. Sep 11, 2004

Last time I did this route the block with the X held my 200 lbs. Going from the block then up right to the jug Tony mentions above, you do not have to mantle or belly flop (both of which I tried on my non-onsight). Pretty easy if you trust the block (or the bolts). You can rest in the mungy stuff off left before the crux ending, or stay to the right and make it more direct. Pretty cool way to air out yer ass for sure. Aug 29, 2004

The anchor shuts on Free Willie are beginning to show signs of serious wear. I didn't have any quicklinks with me today -- but two are definitely needed before summer. PS. There's a new bolted route around the arete about 30' left of Free Willie and 20' right of Jaycene's Dance. It starts up the slightly overhanging left wall of a block-capped, left-facing corner. .9+ (?) past the first two bolts, .9- to the fourth bolt, .7 or so up the slab above (with a 25'-30' runout between the eighth and ninth bolts; small to mid-sized gear optional). 9 bolts total; 80'-90'. Judging by Rolofson's guidebook, the route is a few feet to the right of Familiar Strangers (unless Familiar Strangers has been retrobolted with a new start). [Eds. This is Unfamiliar Strangers.] Mar 31, 2004

I'm a short guy, and had no trouble with any of the clips. I couldn't reach that nice jug up top as soon as I would have like though, leaving me to do a 'not quite beached whale' move in order to reach it. Jul 24, 2003

I do the same thing, Tony. Further to the right, there is a better right foot; making the high step/heel hook with the left foot easier, and keeps you from stepping over the rope. The jug you speak of is good, and makes the move more elegant than the 'knee step-whale mantle'. Jun 27, 2003

The mantle up top is easy to the right. I did this yesterday & saw the Xs on the block, so I skipped it and went further right, to the edge of the upper face, just below and to the right of the final anchors. To my surprise, and I mantled up there was a huge, brown, UNCHALKED jug to the right, which made the move somewhat trival if you have the armspan to reach it. I suspect this route derives its name from the "beached whale" move that people do rather than mantle. It's pretty funny to watch, and bound to happen to shorter climbers more often. As for the height-dependency, my 5'4" partner did it, but had to use funkier footwork at the reach to get it, but not dyno at all- look at the slopes be the cracs (sic) to the left and for a good black "eyebrow" sized positive edge just below. This adds a crux to the route, I am sure. Jun 27, 2003

The rock below the first bolt is crumbly and breaks unexpectedly. I know because I broke off a substantial foothold and fell ten feet to the ground and then another fifteen feet into the talus. So, be careful out there! And, I would recommend always wearing a helmet, as they are rather stylish when tumbling through talus. Aug 18, 2002

As of Saturday (7.20.02) someone chalked two "X" marks on the blocky hold that facilitates the mantle to the left (see previous comment). Although I couldn't make the block move, you may want to be sure to pull or push down on the block and not pull outward. Either that or work the mantle up and right to the anchors avoiding the block entirely. Jul 22, 2002

An excellent route for those of us 5'8" and taller. The reach past the 4th clip may almost be a dyno for some, but once past here the last moves will flow together. You can cut right at the matle or reach high for the chalked hold straight above to the left, have fun. I give this route 3 stars. Oct 4, 2001

Really not much fun. Tons of lichen, loose rock, bushes are right in the way, subpar moves. Also this seemed much easier than 5.9. Not sure where the PG-13 comes from either. If this thing cleans up, it might be worthy of a practice run for someone beginning to trad climb. Mar 13, 2016

Leo, you should not assign this route to me. I don't think I have ever climbed it. I and Kent Lugbill (Laurel & Hardy) met d'Antonio and Dan Brockway (Abbott & Costello) at the anchors while doing the routes simultaneously. Jan 17, 2016

Amazing route. Super long and varied, and although not that difficult, it leaves a big smile on your face when clipping the top anchor. Nov 6, 2017

When linking the 3 pitches into 1, I only used 3 long (2ft) runners (two on the first pitch and one early on the second. I only skipped the second anchor bolts and clipped the rest of the bolts with regular draws...and I didn't have much rope drag on the finish. Mar 9, 2017

Forgot some belay specs at the base of this climb. If anyone picked them up, can you please message me? Thanks! Apr 22, 2016

As first ascentionist of this route (and the first to guidebook it), I find it pretty bizarre to see it described as a 3 pitch climb. We never attempted this route in multi-pitch fashion, only as one long pitch. In fact, if you were to belay atop pitch 1, it would create a point of aid to rest. I can't imagine falling off with your belayer right below you to crash into. I describe each stage as lower (.11b), middle (12c) & upper (.12b/c). I established the middle stage in 1996 & originally called it 12b. Later I realized it was much harder (.12c) than other .12b sport climbs in the canyon including ones at this crag. There is no way in hell you can call Kudjo Tranquillizer & Global Gorilla (middle) the same grade. Later in 1996, Rick Leitner bolted the upper stage. I added the last bolt on our first attempt. It wasn't until 1997, I redpointed the entire climb. You can lower from the climb's top back to the end of the middle (pitch 2) at the shared anchor with Animal Magnetism. Then lower to the ground with a 70 meter rope. It also bothers me how some people who submit climbs to the website can't be bothered to give the date or year the climb was established. May 1, 2015

An 80m rope came up about 15 ft. short when linking all 3 pitches. It can be done with a little down-climbing. After cleaning all draws and lowering off of the anchor, it was just about long enough. 80m 9.4 rope. Apr 10, 2014

This route has been on my tick list to do in one monster lead for quite sometime. Just sent the entire 160 foot pitch in a single lead. I skipped a boat load of bolts on pitch one and two and used some 4 foot runners in quite a few places and had a nearly perfect rope line with little drag. Pitch 3 is full on. Very tricky. Overall, a great freaking route. Far from the hardest route I have done but definitely one of my prouder sends. For anyone who does it in one lead, I gaurantee it will bring a smile to your face when your clipping chains on this one! Get after it!!!! May 9, 2013

We did the full route as one pitch and were pretty certain an 80m line would get you down from the top (though didn't confirm this). Otherwise lower and re-thread at the top of p2... a 70m will take you down from there. Feb 6, 2013

I found the first pitch pretty good but not my favorite at BoCan. 2 stars, maybe 3. Not sure what the fuss is about. Felt 5.11...looking forward to the full send one day though. Jul 2, 2008

Wow! The first pitch alone on this climb is one of the best 11s in the canyon, but linking all 3 pitches into a 160' pitch makes it absolutely amazing. I just wanted to post a current comment that says that the "3rd pitch" seemed completely solid to me. Don't be afraid of loose flakes, I didn't find any. I also have to agree that the "3rd pitch" is the crux of the climb. Even with a great rest before it, the moves feel way harder than the "2nd pitch crux". I realize it's all relative, but I would call it 11b, 12b, 12c. Every "pitch" of this climb is 2-3 stars, but, as a whole, it is unquestionably 3 stars! Sep 12, 2007

I got on the 3rd pitch of this the other day, and I would have to say that it is considerably more difficult than the supposed route crux on the 2nd pitch. However, there is a fairly sizeable scar between the 1st and 2nd bolts which may have once been a fairly crucial hold. The pitch was also unchalked, licheny, and somewhat flakey making me wonder how many ascents its seen. Watch out below if someone is on this pitch: I dislodged a credit card sized flake which nearly hit a party below. Compared to the other pitches at Upper Animal World, I would give this pitch 1 star for the climbing and 3 stars for position. I would rate the three pitches of Global Gorilla 11b, 12a/b, and 12c. Jun 22, 2005

Clarification: in the photos I just posted, when I say "crux", I'm talking about doing just the first pitch as an 11b climb. Dec 15, 2004

For the problem of falling on your belayer, it's best to do the first two pitches as one. Expect huge rope drag on the 2nd pitch though. We got around this by TR'ing the first pitch, then launched into the 2nd pitch with the belayer still on the ground. Jun 1, 2004

P2 seems a bit contrived -- a lot easier (12b) if you head hard right above the belay - staying left is 12c and you risk falling on top of your belayer. P3 is quality. Seems the vast majority do P1 and rap.... May 27, 2004

I did the second pitch of this recently and really didn't think it was any part of 12c. I would say 12b, 2 stars. The first pitch, however, is my favorite mid-11 sport pitch in the Canyon, fully 3 stars. May 27, 2004

Only led the first pitch, but the description is right...wonderful pitch with different types of moves all the way up. From the left side of the arete, clip the bolt before committing to the move out onto the arete. A sunny day, good friends and climbing like this are what it's all about. Mar 16, 2003

No need for double 60s to get down. As it is mentioned above, there are three bolt/chain anchors on the way up over a 160' piece of rock. One could do it with a single 50m, and do three raps off. With a single 60m, you can link from the ground to the top, then thread the chains and lower to the cushy second belay ledge (all the while your second is still on the ground). Then you can either belay them up, or just pull your rope and rap (two raps to ground) and give them a go on lead. Aug 29, 2002

May have left a La Sportiva Katana Lace Up at the bottom of Animation.... Give me a call at 3077304933 or email andyrenz5@gmail.com (might not be in immediate phone service) if you find it. You're the best! Nov 15, 2017

I soloed this route yesterday and did not find hardly any loose blocks on it at all. Near the top there was a breadloaf-sized loose block that was sitting on a ledge that was easily avoidable. I didn't throw it off, because I was afraid it'd go to the road. There was some blocks that looked loose at the very top, but I tested all the ones I used thoroughly as I was soloing, and none of them moved. Also doing the route in late fall/early winter was good, because all the plants lost their leaves and were easier to navigate around. Overall I liked the route. Nov 12, 2017

Got about 1/2 of the way up this route last Sunday and ended up downclimbing because of all the loose blocks. There are more than a few toaster-sized blocks that will be easily knocked loose if pulled on or used as a foot-hold. It would be irresponsible to do this route if there are other parties on the ground. Make sure your belayer is attentive and has a helmet on. Aug 15, 2017

I agree that this climb is of poor quality. Before bolts (June 19, 1980, to be exact), I led Cathy Mallow up this dihedral/gully. (Does this put me in the pantheon containing the likes of the Stettners, Ellingwood, or Ormes?) I didn't report our ascent because someone could have climbed it before we did, and I didn't report anything in those days. Instead, I kept a journal and occasionally took photos. Jan 3, 2012

The crack was full of bird crap. Bushes at the top of the climb are annoying. Lots of loose blocks. Fun to use my hexcentrics, otherwise a bore. Apr 18, 2008

This route has given me great satisfaction for the hangdog. To prepare, I made hangdog ascents of many other Boulder Canyon 5.12s: Tell Tale Heart, Vasodilator, and Buddha Belly, but Hands of Destiny gave me the most satisfaction, because it allowed me to send the crux before providing the desired hangdog. But seriously, awesome route. What's the deal with the fixed copperheads on this route? There is one right at the crux with a broken cable and sharp frayed ends sticking out just above one of the crux holds. I guess they are being left for historical purposes? Aug 31, 2017

Jon, I would assume Bob did it ground-up without too much fuss. When he did the FA in 1987, he was arguably one of the strongest and most prolific climbers in the U.S. Aug 27, 2017

Question about Bob's FA - I know it was lead on gear, but was it in a ground-up style? Aug 25, 2017

This is one of the premier lines of Boulder Canyon. A true face climbing granite testpiece. I've climbed a lot in Bo Can, and I feel like Hands of Destiny is what it's all about for Bo Can rock climbing. Feb 8, 2017

If you were climbing this route on the evening of 4/11 and left something behind, I grabbed it. Send me a message letting me know what it is that you lost, and I can get it back to you. Apr 15, 2015

This climb is rad! Tried it a year ago and could never figure out the crux despite sending many other climbs of higher difficulty. Just returned and figured out the crux sequence in a few minutes. Pretty thin and devious face climbing with a techy crux. My advice to everyone is to do this climb when it's cloudy and cold. This wall bakes in the sun all day and is extremely hard to do when it's greasy. The crux won't even feel possible if it's hot, perhaps why I could never send it in the past. Great route, though! Don't cheat yourself by stepping out right and clipping the chains of Animal Instinct like some people do. The climb ain't over til the fat lady sings! The slab up top demands your attention. Do it and smile the whole way, the face climbing on this route is some of the best I have been on. Brilliant! Nov 10, 2012

Great position, solid rock, and varied movement with technical and mental cruxes. Don't cut yourself short by traversing right to the Animal Instinct chains, it's not over! Some rope work would need to be done to manage the rope drag if trying to link all the way to the top but you get pretty good value after finishing P1. Classic Boulder Canyon sport climbing! Dec 6, 2010

Onsight and hanging the draws it felt closer to 12d to me (I can't really climb slabs anymore - too much time in the gym - so I had to try a little). Though not very hard, it's sort of challenging to put the puzzle together onsight. The final slab is desperate: no chalk, licheny, and I had to use my feet - thought I might blow it there! A little scary getting to the 1st bolt too...good route for BoCan. May 5, 2008

Hands of Destiny was rated 13 a/b in Rossiter's Boulder Climbs North. He lists the gear then as small stoppers, TCUs plus four pins. Just maybe it felt a little harder placing gear than it does now with all them safety clips. May 3, 2004

I think the Rolofson rating of "12c/d" is about right on. The "c/d" for the height dependent nature of several moves in the crux section. Don't think you have this climb in the bag if you get through the lower section... the top seam/slab is tricky and hard. Mar 17, 2004

Great line, but I'm amazed that three different guidebook authors grade it so dramatically different. Hate to say it, but this is much closer to 12c than 13a. Nov 16, 2003

I agree with Fred Knapp. There is no way this route is 13a. No move is harder than 12c, and it's not at all sustained. It is a very good route though. Oct 13, 2003

Hands of Destiny is still intact, perhaps the broken hold above the third bolt is on the new route to the left of Hands of Destiny. This new route is still "shedding". Jul 2, 2003

Maybe I really suck, but I think a hold has been broken. I was up there recently and it was really hard to clip the third bolt. Anyone got any info? I could see a scar where a longish hold might have been to the right of the third bolt. The only hold there is now is a pinch above the bolt. Dec 1, 2002

Here is some additional info that some may find useful (regarding the route) that has nothing to do with Sven. A 60m (200ft) rope will allow one to lower off or rappel off the 1st pitch anchors. A 50m rope won't make it to the ground. However, it would be possible to lower/rap to the anchors of Animal Instinct on the right and rap off those rings with a 50m cord. The first bolt is about 25 ft off the ground. One can protect the easy 5.8 loose block intro without additional rope drag with a cam (1.5-2 Friend) and a long (1.5 shoulder length) sling. Although this is not necessary, I prefer to minimize the risks when possible. After the blocky start, this route is very well bolted with easy clips. There is also some additional fixed gear that is helpful when working the moves or just hanging the draws. Hands of Destiny is excellent, with great 5.11 climbing, despite the crimp fest crux. Sep 3, 2002

13a? Dream on. This is a great route. But let's be real--it's probably 12c in bad conditions. --Fred Knapp Jul 15, 2002

Bob D"Antonio makes an important point here and one that came up for me while climbing in California during the last three weeks. We ran into a visiting gang of hardcore Brits who were very much aware of climbingboulder.com and spent some time contrasting it with the web site 8a.nu. What I took away from their comments was the degree to which what we write here becomes visible throughout the world. In other words our comments have become very public. For that reason, I would suggest that if you write it here comments and route descriptions should contain information and ideas that you are willing to have placed in the public view. Think twice before adding spray, sniping, and vituperative dissing of other climbers. Oct 17, 2001

Dear Sven, I think what American climbers got annoyed with is the selective nature of routes that you profiled, which all appeared to be flashes. Perhaps if you had added routes which you had more trouble on or were able to supply more helpful information than "quite fine bolting" or "short crux", people would not take offense. It's not that American climbers hate climbing, they hate what is called "spray," the gratuitous offering of info designed to make the sprayer look good. Describing a route has nothing to do with whether you flashed it and that news is of no help to someone who wants to know about the climb. It has nothing to do with where "there is more enjoyment of the climbing sport" but a lot to do with perceived attitudes and how you clearly wanted to talk only about flashed routes. I for one would be more impressed with descriptions of harder routes which require larger commitments of time and energy to succeed on. All that said, flashing Rainbow Wall is impressive. Best wishes, A. Coward Oct 17, 2001

The comment next to last was not my own. Perhaps it has been unwise to share my experience on this site. Many of the climbers in the US are very hostile to other climbers (not just myself!). Soon I am to return to my job in Bergen where I teach skiing, and I will remember my good experiences climbing in Boulder. I think it is sad that so many climbers in the US do not so much enjoy the climbing as they enjoy feeling good to be better than other climbers. In Europe, where we have very many good climbers, there is more enjoyment of the climbing sport so this has been a big surprise for me in US. Perhaps more of my US friends will learn to take pleasure in the climbing sport, then everyone will feel welcome here. Oct 16, 2001

So to be for the flashing most ready, climb if you can the 4 routes of the most similarity. And on the route not falling the moves is best. So for Vogue flash I do 4 14a flash after 4 13d flash redpoints! Oct 15, 2001

This plan is nothing. It just how my friends in Bergen and I train for the flash. For many years we feel that the flash is the best way to show that we are improved in climbing. For us to flash this takes a plan and a strategy that we call 4-plan because it is based on 4 routes taken 4 times. For illustration I can use Hands of Destiny. We pick this route to be the goal for the flash because it is a quite nice route. We train by climbing 4 routes of nearly the same level and on the same type of climbing rocks. These are not tried to flash but only to red point. When 4 are done we try the flash route where the goal is now to flash. If we do this 4 times then we go to the next higher level. If we fail in the flash then it is necessary to try again on a new choice. We feel that if we must change the climbing rocks, then it is likely to need to begin the 4-plan from the start. All of this is only so that we may focus the training and not to drift too much from the goal to improve. Some of my climbing partners can make the red point at the 5.14 grade but this needs many tries and many failures and we think that to flash is maybe a improved way to measure our success. In the last week after a long trip to Utah and to Rifle in Colorado we came back to Boulder for another training but I think many climbers in US do not want to hear this. Sep 25, 2001

Good job. What's the 4-plan? Sep 25, 2001

My thanks to Alan for his kind words. My goal has not been to "spray" for my own glory but to show how hard we must work to succeed with these very nice climbs that we have done in Colorado. It is pleasing to succeed on these very excellent climbing routes. Aug 30, 2001

I see my American colleagues are fast to anger. Perhaps you should not have so much anger for my success as you should ask how much I must fail to reach my goal! With my friends in Bergen we train very hard to make the flash because we feel it is the best measurement for our climbing skill. So please do not take the offense for my success, I have had to climb so many routes for each one. Aug 29, 2001

Yeah, Sven, at least take a clue from the rest of us and make a nominal effort to disguise your spray as meaningful advice about the climb! Aug 29, 2001

Hey Sven, this isn't a forum for you to spray about every flash you do. We know you are a great climber, and Boulder standards are low. No need to keep telling us about it. Aug 28, 2001

This route, The Hands of Destiny, has given me a great satisfaction for the flash. We spent one week climbing in Boulder Canyon in order to prepare for this climb. Hands of Destiny was to be a good target for the preparation because it is of very good design. One can approach the difficult section with not very hard moves and so be rested before starting this part. After only 3 meters the difficulty comes again to only 5.11 (6c+) and does not again become more difficult. Our preparation allowed us to try many good climbs in Boulder Canyon, and many of these were very excellent routes. For my climbing, I feel that Hands of Destiny was the most special route of all. Our 4-plan was good, our preparation was well, The Hands of Destiny was a very excellent and nice climbing route. Aug 28, 2001

Very good route, deserves more than 2 stars. Below the first bolt and coming out of the upper corner are the cruxes, IMHO. It is easy to be led astray by chalked "sucker" holds in that corner (which happened to me). Even so, this is harder, more techy, and more balancy/insecure compared to Unfamiliar Strangers (.9+) to its left and The Tower over at Avalon. Sep 3, 2017

Why edit the original comments so it looks like I'm having a conversation with myself. Leave the original and now deleted "you went the wrong way!" comment in there. Oct 25, 2015

Moving low on to arête by bolt #1 is hard (as in photo in guide), but there are also several interesting moves higher up. Oct 10, 2015

Don't know what you mean about the "hidden" fifth bolt - it was right where it should be. Thought this was a very fun route. Moving out of the corner at the top was a nice way to finish. Nov 18, 2013

Just barely a one star route. Luckily there is just enough ok climbing to make up for the contrived climbing, sections of low quality rock, and the lame, hidden 5th bolt. Oct 8, 2012

This route is pretty cool IMHO. I'm surprised to see it on here as 10a though, given that the BoCan guidebook by D'antonio calls it 9+, and I'd agree with that. I started up the crack and thought it was fun. Definitely a little tricky in spots, but I wouldn't say the climbing is 10a. Kind of creepy on lead (especially because from the 5th or so bolt, you can't see the next bolt), but if you trust your technique, you should be solid. Creepiest part is coming out onto the face near the anchors, but the hands and feet are all there. I'd recommend doing it if you're in the area. Jun 12, 2012

Climbed it today and loved it! The route does look kind of funky from the ground. It has cleaned up very nicely. Clip the first bolt and move out left to the arete. IMHO the crux comes after the very long reach (I'm 5'9") to clip the 5th bolt. The thin finger holds push me to give it 10a. The moves out left at the top are spacey and cool. Looks like a harder variation going straight up and over the corner. Thanks, Greg. May 18, 2012

If you read the first comment (done 1 month after the first ascent), Paul climbed the corner "though a bush, dirt, and loose rock wasn't all that inspiring". When this route was first done in Feb. 2008, the crack was full of water and ice, hence we bolted the clean dry rock on the left. We came back in April and cleaned the corner to produce the trad route "We Don't Do Crack". The moves following the bolts left are technically more difficult. You can climb the route any way you want. Jul 18, 2011

Seems awfully contrived (and wrongheaded) to move OUT of the dihedral/crack at the first bolt, just to rejoin it ten feet later before sending the upper sections. Leave it to Boulder.... At any rate, as of summer, 2011, the crack start seemed clean 'n' friendly enough. And my six-foot frame was easily able to clip all bolts without having to use any gear. Good, fun warm-up regardless of how you mash these potatoes.... Jul 18, 2011

Fun moves coming around the two corners. Oct 4, 2009

If it has rained recently, this route will be soaked. May 29, 2008

A pleasant warm up with a cool move left around the arete at the 7th bolt. May 20, 2008

Hey I was just asking originally so I could post the photo of the start for everyone...found the description a bit vague and it isn't in any guidebook yet. I wanted to make sure if I was commenting at all I was on the correct route in the database. I was asking for the sake of the next person looking at the site for a nice moderate to climb at Animal World. IMHO, I'd say this route has two starts...one up a dirty crack...and one a somewhat contrived (but perhaps fun nonetheless) up a face past two bolts to avoid the dirty crack. They both end up at the third bolt. The natural line is up the crack, but since you have bolts to protect the moves out left people can try that also. There is no "wrong way" upwards. The crack start would also be fun cleaned up a bit. Mar 21, 2008

Wrong way??? Well someone forgot to put tape on the holds, so I had to be inventive. I think you could climb either the face or crack as they are only a few feet apart at the start. Though if you climb the crack you'll want to protect it with gear - the bolts are too far out left to be that useful for protection (until the third bolt). The crack seemed pretty obvious to me and doing it that way felt 5.9+ overall. Perhaps just 5.9 once the lichen wears away. I didn't do the bolted face start so can't comment on its grade. Still some loose rock on this one, so keep your belayer aware. Mar 20, 2008

Does this route start on a black face, at a dihedral that could be lead on gear? I placed cams past the first two bolts - though a bush, dirt, and loose rock wasn't all that inspiring (I'm not posting some anti-bolt tirade just clarifying location). The upper section was pretty lichen covered, but with more traffic would be a nice addition to the crag - since there aren't many mid range climbs here. Mar 20, 2008

Fun route with varied movement, I didn't know the grade when I led this, but I would say it's in the 10+ or .11- range, the roof is great fun and all there! Apr 21, 2013

This is a fun route. The crux roofs remind me of the Gunks. Jan 10, 2010

If you have a 60m follow the above advice, but tie knots in the rope to be sure. You can't reach the big dead pine ledge with a 60 at all. We tied stopper knots in our 60m rope and the climber just untied 10' up and downclimbed a bit, so we could hang out at the big dead pine ledge. Awesome climbing. Nov 21, 2009

Did this route today, lots of fun. The new BC guidebook, and this page for that matter, say you need a 70 meter rope and 14 draws. Neither are true. Once you are on the upper ledge, climb another 10 feet to belay at the base of the climb (great belay seat). You can easily skip the first bolt, then it's only 11 draws to second set of anchors which are about 90 feet from the ground. Highly recommended, needs more traffic to help it finish cleaning up a bit. Sep 29, 2009

Pretty fun. The place where the block came off was obvious, and the climbing into the overhang has changed, but it isn't any harder. Yes, the "stump" that is left is semi-detatched and probably will come off too someday after fatigue and freeze/thaw cycles. May 21, 2009

I only did the first pitch of this route, and found it to be sustained 5.10d. The second pitch we did not do because Maciej pulled off a large chalky block, just by barely touching it. He lowered from the first bolt after the first belay. There was definitely more loose stuff up there. Normal spring climbing stuff, there is a good chance this route has changed a bit with the block that Maciej pulled down. Apr 30, 2009

Thank you, Bob, Vaino and Greg. Isn't life Strange is a fantastic climb, 11+ pure fun. Climbing both pitches as one is sustained joy. Oct 26, 2008

Done as a single pitch, this will become the best mid-range 5.11 sport route in Boulder Canyon once the lichen on the upper headwall cleans up a bit. Great position and thought-provoking movement. Out of curiosity, I used the advanced search features of MP to list all the 5.11 sport routes in Boulder Canyon sorted by stars. Nothing on that list is better than this climb. Animal Magnetism probably has a better finale, but over the entire length this route delivers better moves. Of the 3 separate roof tiers, I think the 1st is hardest and the 3rd is the easiest. The upper headwall looks so blank from the ground, but it has a surprising rail on it that makes the upper headwall moves some of the easier moves on the route. Use a long runner on the 1st bolt, the midway anchor and the first bolt after that and your rope will run nice and straight. Great find Bob, Vaino, Greg and Dan! Thanks for the effort too. Jul 11, 2008

Thanks Bob D, Vaino and Greg. This route is awesome, one of the best at Animal World. 11c, maybe d, I will go with 11+. It still has a bit of lichen on the upper section but will clean up quickly. Jun 2, 2008

The first pitch is tricky and sustained from the 3rd bolt to the anchors -- maybe .10c but it felt more like .10d to me. The wild second pitch is probably .11c onsight (easier once you've worked out the beta). Another excellent addition to Boulder Canyon. As Chris said, there's a nasty 20"x20" death block to the right of the first bolt on the second pitch. Although it looks like a good stemming foothold, it's completely detached from the wall. Be careful. A 70m rope isn't mandatory but makes it easy to lower to the dead tree instead of downclimbing from the ledge at the start of the climb. PS. In light of Bob D's comment, I deleted my remark about Dana's .10c rating. Sorry about that. May 20, 2008

Great exposure, varied moves, well-protected - overall an excellent route. Thank you Bob, Vaino and Greg. Apr 24, 2008

Cool route! Upper section is better than the lower. Watch the death block after the first bolt past the lower anchors. Apr 12, 2008

Nice work Bob, maybe head up there Sat. a.m? How's the crack on the left side of face, looks hard, 5.10? Mar 12, 2008

Kevin, We were at the top starting pitch 2 a few days ago but had a battery problem. It will be done soon. Mar 3, 2008

Nice route, Bob. Hard to read, one of the better for the grade in Bo Can., how's about a pitch 2? Mar 3, 2008

May have left a La Sportiva Katana Lace Up at the bottom of Animation.... Give me a call at 3077304933 or email andyrenz5@gmail.com (might not be in immediate phone service) if you find it. You're the best! Nov 15, 2017

Lost my watch at the bottom of this climb. If you find it, please call! Thanks 916-201-9475 Eric Oct 7, 2017

Really enjoyed this climb, great movement and interesting holds. The bottom section felt .11- to me moving to the arete around the 4th bolt, and .10ish moving to the arete around the 2nd bolt. The upper section was a fun end to the climb, and the moves before the anchor are in the 10+ range. Jul 17, 2017

Maybe I was having a rough day, but this route caught me ofFguard. I think I missed a clutch hold or something, 'cause I had to so some high-brow fandangaling on nail-y stubs to get up the bottom section. I hope next time I climb it, I'll have a "a-ha!" moment followed by a face-palm. Jun 28, 2012

We pulled a tiny post-thaw flake off just above the second bolt, but it didn't seem to impact the climb. From above the first bolt to the area just left and under the roof, this climb requires balance and technique more than it requires strength or crimping. Don't be scared off by the consensus grade. If you climb in the 10s regularly, you'll be able to do this climb. Mar 16, 2012

A bit inconsistent, but good times, nonetheless. I didn't find the supposed 5.10 moves around the cruxes, but the 11a move down low and the one up top are each just one-move wonders. One thing: I don't understand climbing just the first "pitch," which is only about as tall as Dennis Rodman. Unless you have an old-school, 37ft rope, you should probably think about taking the WHOLE line, young leader. The second "pitch" is wholly different, but just as good, with a little spice if'n you don't have monkey arms. And the overhanging top out jug fest is about as fun a finish as you can ask for. And forget the cams--you don't need them for the cruxes. While JV may not be littered with bolts like the rest of Boulder Canyon, it still protects plenty well where you need it with the clips at hand. Apr 13, 2010

Thanks for the beta Joshua! Jul 23, 2009

Re: Robb M. Blockhead .12+. Jul 15, 2009

If only there were about 100' of the lower face! Great route anyway. May 7, 2009

The second pitch if staying in the crack is pretty stout. I believe it is said to be 5.12. It felt pretty darn hard. You can easily finish the route or choose to just climb the arete skipping this crack. Sure is fun climbing though. Really fun as one long pitch no matter how you finish it. Feb 22, 2009

Does anyone know anything about the new bolt line that leaves Joint Venture and goes directly over the roof? Aug 31, 2008

IMHO, the lower section goes at 5.10+ for those interested. Watch your rope around the arete and you might want one smallish cam to get to the anchors. Green or Yellow alien. Jul 2, 2008

ALERT: If you climb this to the bolted anchor and then climb 'Cannabis Sportiva', there is a big, TV-sized, loose block about 6' left of the anchor sitting on a ledge. It looks like a great hand jam behind it to make the traverse but - DO NOT PULL ON IT!! We would have thrown this to the ground, but were worried about it eventually rolling to the highway. It certainly needs to come off though. May 8, 2008

Fun route with a thin start and some good steming on the upper "pitch". Easily done as one pitch with a 60m and minor rope drag. Nice climb. Nov 6, 2006

If you're thinking of linking up the first part of Joint Venture with Cannabis Sportiva, don't! It's certainly possibly with long slings, but it's not worth the risk to your belayer. There are some gnarly loose blocks in between the two routes that you must traverse across. Jul 18, 2003

This route can be climbed as an easy 5.10 or maybe an 5.11a, depending upon the line taken. On the upper section, where it follows the arete it is also possible to set right into the dihedral there (still within clipping reach) and stem/palm to the right to pass the crux on the arete. Jun 27, 2003

I listed Dan's route on this website as "Beast Food" which is what Rolofson's book calls it. I also gave it the 12b rating that Rolofson listed. And as a point of clarification, I think this beta photo is a bit misleading - the anchors shown here are actually the anchors for Beast Food.You have to stay right to get to the anchors of Joint Venture. All that aside, Joint Venture is a really fun line on nice stone! May 6, 2003

I seem forever to be in the role of guide book writer. If I go to Manhattan, people stop me and ask how to get to the Trade Towers. As for Joint Venture, the name is a play on Cannabis Sportiva, and on the fact that I did this originally with Leah Macaluso. Leah, being rather short, hated the upper arete. She was my massage therapist as well as a lovely climbing partner. Dan Hare had nothing to do with this route. Leah and I started in the narrow dihedral in the left of the photo via gear, then climbed the arete to the right of Dan''s route. Do you people read guides books or just make this stuff up? Dan's route climbs the steep face just right of the initial arete then takes the upper dihedral just left of the upper arete of Joint Venture. Dan's route is called Feeding the Beast and is rated overall, 12a. The name may be a reference to Dan's insatiable lust for setting new routes. May 5, 2003

This is a great climb, but the fledgling (flailing?) 5.11 leader might want to bring at least one mid size nut or a #3 or 4 Metolius size for the run from bolts 6 to 7 (counting clipping the lower anchor as a 'bolt'). I found it a little much for my taste, as the climbing got harder there, and the reach was a bit much for my 5'6" self. Otherwise a great route with fun moves below and again up higher. Jun 12, 2001

I'd say that if you do this route straight up, it's probably 9+ and a little pumpy...for Bocan.... Sep 30, 2017

It has cleaned up nicely at this point... definitely trickier than it looks. The 2nd edition of the D'Antonio guidebook has the wrong bolt count (5), I counted eight. May 30, 2017

That traverse that AndBan mentions is the most amazing piece of this route. It's really unusual, required a lot of thought to get through. Sep 9, 2013

Surprising that no one is mentioning the fun/strange traverse right about halfway up. Sep 8, 2013

Thanks. May 26, 2013

I added 2 bolts at the start of this route today. The first to protect getting onto the ledge, and the second to protect shorter climbers getting to the original first bolt. Aug 9, 2011

Poorly bolted. There is still lots of loose rock prior to 1st. bolt. My partner cratered when a well chalked up hold pulled just as he was pulling onto the big ledge below 1st bolt. He got a nice cut on his head and cheek and bruised his heel bone but no other damage done. To his credit, he led the route about 15 min. later. The climbing itself was pretty good for as long as it lasted, which wasn't long. Jul 26, 2011

Much harder than it looks from the ground. Jun 12, 2011

This route is way more tricky than it looks from the ground. Jun 12, 2011

Maybe not the best route for someone who's limit is around 5.9 to lead. You probably could sink some gear in before the first bolt and after the third there is a crack to the right that would take some finger/mid sized pieces....though it looked a bit like a flake. Nov 21, 2009

I think it's a nice route - yes, some dirt on ledges but still interesting moves and fun crux. Agree with comments about first bolt. Would be a sketchy clip for the short leader. Jul 3, 2008

Slimy when wet, dirty when not. Yucky. May 18, 2008

A bolt was added to eliminate the runout to the anchors. It was certainly out of character with the climbing. Apr 29, 2008

I agree with Aeon that clipping the first bolt is a bit runout, as well as it being a long way from the 4th bolt to the anchors. A decent warm-up for the routes above, which are amazing! Apr 24, 2008

This route is pretty dirty right now. The tricky crux at the third bolt may get easier after a few laps and will certainly become more enjoyable. I wouldn't have minded a bolt somewhere before the first one as stepping up to clip it is awkward and could be dangerous for a short leader hanging draws. Apr 12, 2008

Thanks, Greg!!! Sep 9, 2015

I checked all the bolts today. One anchor bolt was loose, and one of the quicklinks was loose. The second bolt was only loose, nothing cracked, and the rock is fine. I tightened all the bolts and the quicklinks. The mussy hooks show very little wear. Jul 31, 2015

Second bolt needs replacing, it's a cracked spinner in some pretty manky rock. Jul 5, 2015

The crux maybe a 10- move, but then after that it's easy climbing (5.7-5.8) to the top. Not a very long climb either. Worth doing nonetheless. Sep 8, 2013

The one move at the third bolt is overhung and makes this route harder than the one left of it, so I would put this at 10a. Stay on the small holds right instead of using that white, chalked-up jive hold up and left. Aug 26, 2012

This route was pretty stiff for 5.9. Although short, the overhung crux packs a punch. A must do on the circuit. May 18, 2012

Big moves if you're under 6 feet. Pretty fun. I was thrown off a little by the idea of using the holds underneath the bush growing after bolt 3, however. Sep 5, 2009

Big moves if you are short. But a really fun route. Sep 29, 2008

This route has those big (Massey??) hooks for anchors. The third bolt is difficult/crimpy. Jun 2, 2008

There are 3 ways to make a hard route: 1) Technical moves 2) Physical difficulty 3) Bad holds This route had a little of each all in the initial section. After tonight, it's got more of the former and less of the latter. It took me 3 tries to get up this thing. To note: The undecling below the roof is now half gone. The crimp/sidepull below and left of the 2nd bolt is now 1/2 gone. (The one Vaino's foot is on in the picture.) May 10, 2008

This route (as originally done) follows the wide crack straight up. The bolts left are Nice To Be Here (done as an easier start) which joins Lovely To See You higher up. But it may make more sense (less gear/harder climbing) to move left and follow the bolts. If you can climb 5.12c, you probably don't need the purple Camalot at the top before the anchors. Apr 12, 2008

After you pull the roof, does this route move out left to link with the line of bolts, or does it continue straight up through the right facing flakes? Apr 12, 2008

So this route is hard, I think the moves to pull the roof are easily V3/V4. I'd give this 11+, and I'm usually a sandbagger. The upper section is .10a/b, and is still fun, but agreed there is suspect rock. Tread lightly and smart. First bolt is placed perfectly, no issues clipping this safely without a stick clip, and I'm 5'9". Sep 26, 2016

Maybe I'm just feeble, but I think the move over the roof is pretty darn hard unless you have at least a 68 inch wingspan. Which I don't. Jul 1, 2016

All the holds at the roof are solid now, the upper face has some good movement, and I did not find a loose flake. May 23, 2016

Looks like a crucial foot hold broke off at the start making the route much harder. Sep 12, 2015

Huge pieces fell of right at the start for me and then super choss pile halfway up. You can avoid the mess in the middle, but look for the nastiness. Not really recommending it. May 11, 2012

I added a first bolt today, so a stick clip is not necessary. So the bolt count is now 10. Aug 9, 2011

If you take a bit of falls or hangs at the roof, where the crux is, pay attention to your draw. When you hang, if the gate is facing left, it will likely open the biner for you. When you hang, repeatedly, the rock will likely shred your sling. My buddy's draw was shredded almost all the way through. May 1, 2010

I'm going to contradict Matt K. The grapefruit sized hold I yarded off and threw at his head (thanks Matt for still catching me) was from the alternate L hand start to this route, Tuesday Afternoon. Mar 13, 2010

I think this is a good route, and while it may not be 5.11 for the duration, the top section still ticks in at 5.10c/d. I think the first bolt is way too high off the ground, so consider a stick clip. The problem is that the while the first bolt is just out of reach of clipping from the ground, the fall from this ledge would likely send you to the hospital. Would the FA agree to the addition of a bolt lower down to avoid this possibility? Apr 30, 2009

Buddy of mine snapped a large hold off of the lip of the roof. I dodged that falling bastard then decided to hop on the route. I had not been on the route prior to the breakage, but seems it could have gotten a bit harder. The route is fairly loose overall and I would not be surprised to see another get buggered out by unintentionally removing more rock. Remains still, a one-ish move wonder. Apr 12, 2009

This climb is a one move wonder. Once over the roof continue up the bolts for a 5.9 grade. The rock above the roof is flaky and the rock above that is a bit dirty. Jan 31, 2009

I thought that the first clip was a little high to get a draw on from a good stance. The feet were shedding on me, which made for some nervousness, given that a fall before the first clip is a 'non-option.' The grade felt about right, probably 11-, but I missed the mono/duo pocket, as it was pointed out to me later. Others said it was easier with that (11a?). It could be good climbing once it cleans up more. May 1, 2008

After the roof this line continues up a short section of bad rock, and has a very large and very suspect flake on it. I avoided it completely after hear a discomforting echo ringing through the bowels of this block. Use it cautiously if you must. Apr 12, 2008

Funny that nobody mentions that the first bolt is a bit high off the ground and the climbing to it is nontrivial. If you don't want to blow it and tumble another 50' down to the base of Global Gorilla, I recommend (much to my dismay) that one consider stick clipping the first bolt. The route is a good alternative to Global Gorilla if somebody is on it. Be careful if you blow it clipping the anchors; potential ankle sprain geometry. What were those guys thinking? This is Boulder Canyon after all. Oct 21, 2007

Great route, and the grade seems accurate to me. I thought the climb had an accumulation factor, i.e. the various cruxes began to take an accumulative toll on my forearms and psyche. Even though you could take a nap on the mantle ledge, psyching up for the crimp/small foothold traverse to the anchors takes some effort, particularly if you arrive at that point with an onsight happening. May 12, 2004

I have racked my brain for a suitable cold cut joke, but must settle for just agreeing with Ken. The clip seemed like the hardest move to me, and it is certainly very contrived not to end the route at the stance to which Bill refers. Aug 1, 2002

Ken's full of bologna! You can rest as long as you want before making the crimp moves over to the anchor and clipping. It is certainly a difficult clip, but not the crux of the climb. I found the crux to be reaching the mantle hold (where I fell off) or the mantle move itself (almost fell off). Fun climb. The hard move at the bottom is by the first bolt, I think. It is indeed a very cool stemming problem. There is also a neat liebacking section by the fourth or fifth bolt. Lots of good variety on this pitch. Aug 1, 2002

I would say clipping the anchors is the crux of the climb. I popped off while pulling up rope here and went for a fun (and clean) ride. This climb is easier than Global Gorilla's 1st pitch despite the harder rating. If you're looking for a warm-up on Upper Animal World (as opposed to doing something on Lower AW and then walking over), this is a good one since the hard climbing starts up high and after a couple of no-hands rests. The hard move at the 2nd bolt is really a stemming problem so it shouldn't tweak your fingers if they're not warmed up yet. Aug 1, 2002

My least favorite of the new routes- some fun climbing, but a lot of scaling rock and lichen still. Whenever I smeared I sheared off little flakes and skidded my feet. Anyone climbing theis should take a brush and scrub on the way back down, particularly near the crux where it was hard to scrub on the way up.... The climb will probably improve with ascents, but it's still going to be a little 'directionless.' May 1, 2008

May have left a La Sportiva Katana Lace Up at the bottom of Animation.... Give me a call at 3077304933 or email andyrenz5@gmail.com (might not be in immediate phone service) if you find it. You're the best! Nov 15, 2017

Fun 5.7. A couple of loose blocks on the left half way to the anchor. This one felt easier than Crack Corner further left. Jul 17, 2017

Fun beginner trad route. Definitely didn't need up to a 3 in cams but did well w/ a full set of nuts. Plenty of places to rest and double-check gear placement. Pretty short considering nearby routes. May 30, 2017

A set of nuts and cams to 0.75 is more than enough gear.... Oct 10, 2015

I agree that it is easier than Crack Corner to the left. Jul 1, 2014

Short but fun. It is easier than Crack Corner (the other trad climb just to the left of it) in my opinion. Sep 27, 2008

I didn't see anything resembling 5.8 on this climb, quite unremarkable. Maybe if you hauled your rack up and everything else was already being climbed you could get on this route. May 1, 2008

Fun route with great pro and positive edges all of the way to the top. Well worth the effort if you brought trad gear. An easy way to set up a top rope on Joint Venture. Nov 21, 2005

Short but fun trad. route. Excellent practice for beginners. Oct 27, 2003

Really fun and varied route with interesting movements. Not really sure why the consensus is dyno; we figured out two different betas that were fairly straightforward, and we never attempted the dyno. Oct 18, 2015

Super pscyhed to have just flashed this route. I did go to the right to rest and then came back and fired to the anchors. Totally my style and had a great time on this. 5.12b! Oct 16, 2015

Interesting route. For me, the crux ended up actually being at the start of the rightwards traverse (getting into the the good hold at the start without getting tangled up in the rope). The feet through here are tough to see and kind of slippery. The rest of it was pretty sequency, but I didn't really ever dyno (used more lower leg flagging instead). One last compression type of move to get stood up onto the headwall. Sep 15, 2014

I only did the route once for the onsight recently, but I clearly remember using a small, sharp crimp for the right hand that has a tick on it. Locking off on that and getting your left foot up on the jug (the one you dyno to) is the crux. Once you're standing on the jug with your left foot, I bear hugged the block the rest of the way. Have fun with it. It's a great route. The 12a to the left of this is awesome too.... Nov 4, 2012

This route is super good, you must do the dyno. It's amazing and may be one of the sickest moves I've done on a Boulder area climb. Also, maybe it's just me, but I stuck the dyno my first try but could not link the moves after, and they are turning out to be the crux for me. Anyone have beta they want to share? Nov 3, 2012

Contrived? I think you should do it the way it looks most fun. I threw a right knee pad on and jammed it in near the top at the rest. I guess this makes the route 10b/c the way I did it. Either way you do it, its a good route and climbs alot better than it looks. The moves on the top after the jug horn are super fun. I smiled when I did this route.... Oct 25, 2012

Spectacular! Both versions seem perfectly legit to me, but the dyno (from the sharp flake left and the flaky sidepull right) is simply awesome. Pumpy before and after that too. Just a great sport climb. Jul 15, 2007

Sorry to contradict, but I felt that the 12b right variation was way contrived, traversing away from the obvious line and that the 12c dyno was the natural way to go. Besides that, the dyno is possibly the wildest single move I have done on any route in Boulder Canyon! If you think you know how to dyno, then go out and give this amazing huck a try. Aug 25, 2006

I can't even figure out the dyno version. There is a jug to clip the second roof bolt and a layback directly above to reach the lip jug more or less static. What the hell is off route on this route? Oct 2, 2004

The name "Piles of Trials" comes from an old Moody Blues song with the refrain "Face piles of trials with smiles...." While equipping the climb, I was in the midst of severe back pain. As I was moving my pack at the base of the climb, the ACL in my right knee exploded! I got a knee brace and came out of my hospital bed for the first ascent. Then I took up golf, and the rest is history.... For historical information, FA 2 April 1996. Jun 20, 2003

I did this the other day via the 12b way, and I have to say that this version is nowhere near as indirect as Rolofson's guide states. All the holds you use to skip the 12c section are within 2-3 feet to the right of the 4th bolt. I agree that going way right to the rest is pretty indirect, but firing straight up the bulge (the 12c way), dynoing to the jug and skipping all the good holds just to the right, is very contrived. Good route though. Jun 20, 2003

I really liked this route -- the ledge after the traverse makes it too tempting to rest/shake out before pulling through the crux to the upper arete. Both versions, 12b or 12c direct makes for a nice route with many different types of climbing (slab, crimping, power, laybacks, etc.) protecting the anchors. Aug 6, 2002

Four move V7. Pretty fun actually. Jun 5, 2016

There is a very definite crux at the third bolt (of pitch 2) that seemed like it would go two ways. A huge body length dyno up and right to an angled rail or classic BoCan crystal crimping up and left. I only managed the latter, but the dyno would be spectacular. Either way it's pretty mean and punchy. Good stone, but it looked as if the second pitch doesn't see much action these days. It's also worth noting that pitch 1 shares anchors and the last four bolts with Cujo Tranquilizer to the left. Oct 26, 2014

The first pitch of this route is rated 11b and is a fun route in that grade. Unfortunately, the crux comes right off the ground and involves a pretty intense crimp and a high step. A bit brutal for a warm-up. The rest of the pitch is easier, but continuous and fun. Clipping the bolts on the upper section is a bit awkward because the bolts are on one side of the arete, but the climbing is on the other. Jul 26, 2002

I think if this route was a boulder problem people would love it and call it V5 or V6; as a route it feels kinda weird and silly. I dunno, still enjoyed it though. Apr 8, 2017

Interesting kneebar beta to (as said above) a wicked mantel. Not really worth the effort in my opinion. Mar 21, 2015

V7 sounds about right. I climbed it completely to the right of the bolts. No kneebars, but some great toe hook/ heel hook, followed by a wicked mantel. Aug 27, 2008

This is just right of the large dead tree, not to the left. Feb 17, 2013

A little grungy getting to below 3rd bolt. Fun climbing from there. And, a bit run out if you didn't bring any gear to place between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. Oct 4, 2009

Great, thuggy climbing through the roof. The two buttonheads don't inspire much confidence (though they're probably ok) before starting in on the crux. The best link-up might be to head up Isn't Life Strange, clip the P1 anchors with a long sling, then head into the cool roof. The climbing before the buttonheads is fun, techy, slab climbing that is worth doing at least once, however. Sep 4, 2016

Excellent addition to the crag! Yes, it might share a hold or two with ILS, but for most part it is an independent line with classic movement. It has a little bit of everything - thin technical slabbing, thuggy roof climbing, and a slopey finishing crux. Well done! Nov 14, 2012

I am not trying to be a hater here, but this route is more or less a contrived, squeeze job - at least the bottom half. Not stepping over onto ILS takes almost as much effort as the 5.12 moves themselves! The upper section is pretty cool, although there too you kind of have to force yourself not to bail onto the neighboring 10a to the left. Seems like it could have been done as a variation finish to one of the neighboring routes rather than adding a whole new line of bolts. Just sayin'. Aug 6, 2012

The route seems fairly clean now and does not look like it needs much brushing. Mar 7, 2013

Would be good with a few hours of brushing and trundling. Apr 2, 2011

I was on this route once or twice a couple years ago but didn't have any real recollection of it today. So, technically it wasn't an onsight, but practically it was. As such, it would be my first 12 onsight according to MP consensus standards. Super hard, slabby moves including some micro edges, technical feet, traversing, arete moves including an arete bump, etc. AWESOME!!! The first real crux comes when exiting the ledge and traversing left onto micros, feet and hands. Going to the anchors, immediately following the 2nd crux, you gotta keep it together mentally, because you finish by going to the left after the final clip. May 18, 2014

The first crux at bolt 5 is thin but all there. After clipping bolt 5, throw to the arete on the left, lower but better than the slopers above. The second crux at bolt 7 may be the more difficult. The last bit to the anchors is a bit tense, because you're off to the left and above a bulge. Oct 2, 2010

I left an Ipod Nano here yesterday April 23rd 2010.... If you found it, would you please please get in touch with me... you will get infinite Karma points! 4252680126. Jesse Apr 23, 2010

To me this root felt every bit of 5.12. The bottom crux alone, unless I am missing some beta, brought it up to this grade for me. Add the top crux, even with the good rest, and I think that this deserves to be an Animal World 12. Make sure that the sun isn't too hot when you go for the redpoint. Like Animal Instinct, sweaty hands and slimy, hot rock will kill you on this route. Mar 20, 2009

Interesting, thin, and technical footwork. Moves are not 5.12, and the lower crux seemed a tad more difficult than the upper. Perfect rock, well protected and interesting. Think thin. Jun 19, 2003

This is a great climb w/ a persnickety crux on slabby, slippery granite. The final moves are exciting and somewhat unprotected on chicken heads leading up to the anchor. Definitely technical, the pump factor isn't a issue due to some good rests. Aug 15, 2002

Uber fun route. Very hard to clean on rappel. The deathblock at the belay is clearly marked - easily avoided. Did it in 1 long pitch with a 70m. Well bolted and fun moves - one of the best sport routes I've ever done. May 15, 2017

WARNING: loose block next to anchor. Be really careful. It's a fun climb, but I wouldn't do it again until the block is gone. Apr 24, 2015

I pulled a giant block off at the 3rd bolt and took a groundfall. Didn't get hurt, but bad belay for sure. There is a lot of bad rock on this climb. WATCH OUT! So yeah, the jug at the 3rd bolt is not there anymore, I don't think it really affected the grade though. I did it with out the jug and finished the climb just fine. Feb 6, 2015

The large block is still sitting precariously on a small ledge next to the anchor. This gave me quite a fright when I setting up my rappel. I barely touched it, and it started to fall down. I caught it and tried to set it back in a stable position. I'm surprised it's still there after 6 years or so. I'm not sure if further action should be taken to remove the rock, but people should at least be aware of it (it wasn't mentioned in the guidebook we had). Otherwise the route was pretty fun. Did it in one pitch with a 70 m. We belayed from the boulder, but I was able to rappel down to the base of upper Animal World. Jun 12, 2014

Climbs better as one pitch. A 70m will get you from the rap rings at the top of p1 down past the tree to a dirty ramp closer to the ground trail, so you can avoid much of the class four downclimb if you want. Just be careful not to put the rope over anything sharp and to not get it tangled in the tree limbs when you pull it. Thanks for those bolts, fellas. Nice and long climb with fantastic views and fun movement. Oct 26, 2013

A new first bolt has been added. Thanks to Bob & Bruno for doing this. Jun 26, 2013

Agreed that it's kinda ridiculous to have to climb off of the boulder to clip that first bolt on the headwall considering that a fall would be really bad there. I clipped some bolt out right then downclimbed and cleaned it. Please add a bolt. Jun 19, 2013

Ouch! Oct 8, 2012

Ok climbing, mostly by virtue of length. The first bolt above the ledge should have been placed so that you can clip it while standing on the boulder. Unfortunately this seems to be a theme for this area of the crag (and GH routes in general). Oct 8, 2012

Hmmm, I guess I'm the odd one out here. I didn't think this route was very good, mainly because I found it quite chossy. A lot of key holds on the route are not fully attached or are hollow. Maybe it will clean up with time. The best part was seeing the antique pitons on an old aid line just right of the top of this route. Sep 27, 2009

The large loose block right of the anchor is still there, stacked on another loose block. Trundling does not seem like an option regardless of whether there are climbers below as it could easily take the ride to the road. Aug 4, 2009

There is a large loose block just waiting to fall about 2 feet down and right of the anchor...it moves to the touch, but it is too big to lower down with a person carrying it. Trundling is not an option when people are below, like there was today... and who knows, it may hit the highway when it does go. Be very careful up there, and when you pull your rope, the thing is dangerous. Jun 13, 2008

A good climb, mostly owing to its length. There are still some loose rocks but they are pretty obvious- remember there could be people below and be cautious. Also some suspicious holds (caution, eh?) and including an odd crux hold (flake/pinch/gaston) on the 2nd pitch, probably where Ron mentions the crux in a tight corner. I doubt it will be there forever. Climb on a 70m to return to the starting ledge by the dead tree with no worries. May 16, 2008

Bob and Greg, On the behalf of the climbing community, THANKS. One of the nicest blend of continuity, just enough run out and length. One of the best 5.10 in Boulder Canyon. Will do that route again. It's sooooo good! An alternative to the 60 m being too short to belay from the ground: Belay the follower from the second belay top anchor, it's comfy enough. Bonus: A stunning view across the canyon! Two rappels will bring you back safely on the ground. Beta: Stay left for the crux move, otherwise it's a dead end/way harder. May 12, 2008

This is a great climb! One of the best 5.10 sport routes I've done in Boulder Canyon. Interesting, exposed, and sustained. I felt the crux (a funky corner just above the mid-way anchor) was about 10c, and may be harder for shorter climbers. You can get to the starting ledge for this climb in several ways: 1. Climb Laurel & Hardy Meet Abbott & Costello (9+, bolts) and continue past the two-bolt anchor to a big dead pine tree on a ledge about 70' up. 2. Walk right beneath Laurel & Hardy... for several hundred feet, and find a path cutting back up left to the ledge with the big dead tree. You can belay by this tree (it is solid enough to be used as an anchor), or scramble up loose ground for 25' to a higher ledge just below the first bolt on the route. From the higher ledge, it is about 100' to the top anchor. You can lower or rappel with a 60m rope. From the lower ledge with the dead tree, it is about 125' to the top anchor. You would need a 70m rope to lower to here, but be careful if you try this. May 10, 2008

This should become a Boulder Canyon classic -- lovely position and climbing. The crux corner on the second pitch is tougher than .10b for 5'3" and shorter climbers (my wife was grumbling "sandbag," ".10d," etc. as she reached the anchors). May 5, 2008

Good route Bob. A really nice addition to the canyon in the 5.10 range. We did the whole route (12 bolts) with a 60 meter rope but belayed about 10 feet below the first bolt. A 60 meter rope easily makes it from there but as always be careful. Tie a knot in the end of your rope if there is any doubt in your mind. Mar 20, 2008

Bob, Good seeing you on Saturday. Thanks for pointing us in the direction of these new routes. We climbed this one in one long pitch (70 meter rope needed) and it was fantastic. Certainly will get better with more traffic. Would have tried the others in the area had we not lost our sun. The 11d with your draws on it looks stellar too...any idea what the crack to the left (with the obvious pin down low) goes at? Did you put in some anchors for this line? Sasha Mar 17, 2008

Thought this was actually a really nice line, but it definitely felt quite a bit harder than its 12- neighbor (which feels more like .11). I'd give this .12a. Managed to tear off a chalky but pretty useless hold under the roof at the 1st bolt. Non-intuitive moves through the first roof are hard but fun and very different, it feels like tufa climbing at times. The finger locks at the second roof crux are outstanding, and the arete/heel hook exit is great. **Everyone please do your best to not climb any higher on the sketchy bolted in flake piece than the finger locks. It doesn't make the route any easier and is dangerous.*** Sep 26, 2016

A chossy, awkward pull over the initial roof to a very enjoyable slab/arete sequence to hold your breath watch where you step "hollow" sounding jug and flake pulling. If you've climbed everything else at Animal World then at least you have an excuse to get on it. Nov 15, 2008

Nice Bob. I will be up there today. I'll give a look. Thanks for the hard work. Cheers SAL Jun 24, 2008

Jesus Cristo Bob! I applaud your hard work as I have done the same. I drilled two 10 inch deep holes and glued two threaded rods into them. I then camouflaged the holes with sand. The rock was a little hollow and since the bolt and hanger that keeps you off the ledge needed to be in that section of rock I figured I would just make sure it was bomb proof. What a pain in the butt. Some routes as well as those who trust that our bolt placements are in solid rock deserve the extra effort to make them safe. Jun 23, 2008

I guess I just wanted to validate the danger of the block and see if you would mind. I was up there with Doug Madara yesterday and did not really want his visit to be a stone trundling bash. :) We will look into getting up there and cleaning that block. It would be a major bummer for that to dislodge with the amount of folks that climb there. Thanks for the additions up there. SAL Jun 22, 2008

Great line. But rip that flake out. Bob. Come on... So two people of have yarded on that thing. It is only a matter of time before that thing kills some one below. I climbed the route as you intended Bob, but I scoped that flake out. It is pretty scary in my book. It should have been part of the cleaning process. We all know how much traffic these routes will get. Much Respect. SAL Jun 21, 2008

Terry Murphy and I toproped and scrubbed this route a couple of years ago but never bolted it cos we couldn't figure out how to remove the offending flake. Granted it's fine just using the fingerlock at the bottom, but as Dave said the flake kinda leads you on. I did shove a block off about 5 foot from the bottom of the route and then watched in horror as it accelerated down the slope, jumped the fence and barreled across the highway about 15 seconds before a car drove by. Ughhh. Nighttime trundling seemed like the best option to remove the flake safely, but we never managed to get it together. Jun 19, 2008

Much more enjoyable now that the flake has been secured. Jun 18, 2008

Thanks Bob for bolting this. It is a decent route, and after doing it a second time I like it even more. I placed 2 Xs with chalk on the flake up high. Please be VERY careful with this flake and use it for nothing more than a low finger lock. From this lock, you can bust out right to good face holds. If this thing goes, it could make it to the road. May 10, 2008

Done with the direct start this is the best of the new routes, and pretty good over all for where and what it is. The 3 star rating assigned is accounting for what I believe it will be like once it cleans up a little more. At present, some of the small chips for feet were still grinding down and I snapped a good bit off of one of them. It actually got bigger now. With a little more srcaping and brushing, it will be a good route. The flake up high sure seems like a death flake to me. I was scared to go any higher then the finger-locks down low once I looked up at it. It looked like a good hard pull from the top or a solid whack with a sledge hammer would probably dislodge the whole thing, but it might go all the way to the road and kill someone... there or on the way down. I hope it won't, but my recent experinece at A.W. on the new routes has been less than stellar. I pulled a 200lb flake off of the 11 and several holds off of the 12 to the right. May 9, 2008

We did a start directly below the arete, rather than coming in from Days of Future Passed. Is this a new variation? The first bolt however was missing a hanger, but a nut cable can be used on the stud and yellow and red Aliens can back this up also until you reach over the roof and clip the 2nd bolt. Pretty good climbing overall and the direct start adds some more 5.11 down low. May 1, 2008

This route is very good. together with the two routes to its left, you have a great little chunk of climbing in a concentrated area. However, be warned that this and many of other routes at the upper Animal World crag have a lot of loose / chossy rock. Most of this climb is clean, but a large, angular flake and a loafy jug up top look to be possible missile material. Knock on flakes and jugs before you weight them, and try not to yard out on anything that isn't bombtruck. I guess. Anyway, like I said, sweet route. Apr 27, 2008

The bottom half was OK, but the top half naturally draws you leftward. Trying to stay right is more than contrived. Aug 14, 2017

+1 for contrived. Jan 26, 2016

IIRC, the first bolt is in a block that isn't solid also.... Aug 3, 2015

This felt more than contrived - it was just silly. How far do you force a move before stepping back left? I led the stemming corner and clipped all the bolts, on toprope climbing anything other than that felt contrived. Almost like this "route" shouldn't even be in the database, just call it variations on the retrobolted stemming corner. Still it's nice to be able to do the corner with just 4 draws... Aug 2, 2015

Ditto on the contrived character of the line. It's hard to resist the stems leftmost of the time. We used a #3.0, 3.5, and 00 Friend for the bottom part. Jul 5, 2013

Contrived, yet fun. I thought the moves through the slot were great and the harder moves up high can be made easier by stepping easily left. So, just combine the two routes wherever it feels natural for a decent route all in all. Aug 10, 2012

Interesting, I had no idea that there are supposedly 2 distinct lines here. Jul 10, 2010

I led this climb and ended up stepping/reaching over to the 5.7 crack a little too often. On top rope, actually climbing the bolt line I thought it was significantly harder than Is It Ready Yet Moe, which comes in at 5.10a on this site. So, to me, it was at least 5.10c, if not slightly harder, if you stayed more to the right of the bolt line. Apr 14, 2010

Very contrived. Jul 9, 2009

How do you rate it? Well, the climb is a step off of a 5.7 much of the way, and I could force the line right for hard moves (probably 5.11) or stem back and left for rest (far easier). By staying more or less on route as I could figure it and choosing the most interesting yet solid climbing up without getting silly eliminating holds and stems, the grade I checked in at was probably 5.9. May 21, 2009

The roof continues to shed. There is another rattly block with an "X" drawn on it that is ready to be pried off, even though it is a useful foothold. May 23, 2016

Hmmm.... Sent this over the weekend on third blast. Don't know what the "flake" was like, but without it, I thought the roof move was maybe 11d with some worthy, mid-10 moves up top. (I certainly had to pull the roof in the opposite fashion from what's pictured here. Is THAT the flake in the photo?) Jul 18, 2011

The flake at the roof appears to be gone now. I'm not sure how hard the crux is now (I'm not good at roof climbs), but it seems hard for 11. Dec 1, 2009

Hmmm. Choss evolves over time. Perhaps this one should have been better cleaned from the get-go, given the venue and nature of the climb. Jul 6, 2009

I climbed this today - coming out of the roof gave me the most trouble - I think I cracked off the very last of what was the infamous "flake." And now, without it, I'd feel very confident rating this section 5.12a and the remainder 5.11b/c (keeping the upper slab crux in mind). Jul 5, 2009

While climbing on this last week, we had an unfortunate occurrence on this rock. After my first send, I wanted to go a second time and clean the roof for a friend, and the sketchy flake on the roof, that was always suspect, finally broke. My feet were on it and I was reaching for the sidepull when all of a sudden CRACK,two pieces of rock flew out, nearly killing my innocent belayer. Needless to say, its a bit harder start now, probably in the 12a/b range, so while aI agree with the previous grade of 11a as a whole, that bouldery start has some more burl in it. Anyone try it since then? Nov 3, 2008

We climbed this on Thursday - thanks for knocking the big stuff off. There's a lot of sand on it, and a fair bit of loose rock still. I'd give the boulder-ey section a 5.11c/d for one move and the remainder roughly a 5.10... so maybe 5.11 as an average. But it's a pretty tricky boulder move off that left hand to the sidepull. Doesn't feel very secure. May 31, 2008

We cleaned up the mess left on the ground and built a nice little bench out of it. May 12, 2008

A good boulder problem to an OK climb, but not too clean. My partner pulled off a few chalked-up holds the size of footballs under the crux roof, then I pulled off the huge starting flake (150 lbs, estimated). The climb is probably safer now, and more solid.... Fun moves, less interesting up top than below. May 1, 2008

Also, as someone mentioned earlier, you can clip the first bolt by standing on the big boulder at the start. The moves are 5.9+ right off the ground. Sep 5, 2017

The new bolt is added. There are now 10 bolts on the route. Sep 5, 2017

Please add the bolt. I climbed this yesterday (Sep 2) and was amazed by the runout on what I think is 5.3 terrain. Still, the fall from the last bolt as it stands now will be big (~ 50 feet, figuring in slack and rope stretch). Sep 3, 2017

I just asked Dan for permission to add a bolt to remove the runout, and he said that he is fine with it. I'll get up there some time in the next week or so to do it. I'll post again when it's done. It will be a 3/8" by 2.75" stainless wedge bolt and stainless hanger, torqued to 25 ft-lbs. I know some folks enjoyed the runout, but it is a potentially dangerous fall that is not in character with the rest of this climb, or the other climbs in this area. I would hate to see a 5.9 sport leader (or anyone else) get hurt on this otherwise very well-protected sport climb. Aug 31, 2017

5.9 climbing until the third bolt then much easier. The runout sections felt like 5.4 climbing to me on big positive holds, and I didn't feel the need to place gear even though I brought it after reading the MP recommendations. Aug 14, 2017

This is 5.9 PG or PG-13 without trad gear. If the person who bolted this route thought to themselves "Hmm..I'll leave this open for gear placement", then it should not be on Mtn Prjct as a "sport route." As a 5.12 leader, I felt great on it without gear! It was a fun climb!, but most 5.9 leaders will not feel comfortable with this route and should be notified that it is either NOT A SPORT ROUTE, or PG / PG-13. It is tiresome to hear opinions that the route should be left 'as is' when it's not described correctly, and some very traditional climbers LOVE their easy run-out terrain for no apparent reason. We all know rock breaks, especially with freeze thaw. Apr 19, 2017

Fun climbing, but substantially easier after the second or third bolt. This is not the only route I've seen bolted this way. Remission in South Saint Vrain has similar runout, but like this climb, it is over very easy terrain for the grade. There are probably some places to place gear, but I feel it adds to the excitement of the climb. There are bolts where they are likely to be needed - It's just a different bolting philosophy. As of this post, all bolts and anchors are in good shape. Lowering hooks can be found at the top. Placement of anchors can make setting up a rap tricky if you don't have long enough slings/PAS. Apr 17, 2017

Bring a #0.75 and a #1 to protect the runout if you're worried about 25' of unprotected 5.4 climbing. I'd give this three stars if it was more sustained - it get tremendously easier after the 2nd or 3rd bolt. Aug 8, 2016

Just take a small crescent wrench with you. Apr 21, 2016

I saw a condition report on this route towards the end of last year that said the anchors were loose and it was not currently safe to climb. That comment is now gone, but I see condition reports automatically disappear after 3 months. Does anyone know if the bolts at the anchor's were replaced or tightened? In other words, is this route now safe or does it need some maintenance? Apr 21, 2016

I see that the vast majority here think this is 5.9. IMHO the bottom 2 bolts are 10. Hey but to each his own. Jul 10, 2013

Not a bad route. Did it while I was waiting for a party to get off of Animation to the left. First moves are the crux. To protect yourself a tad, you can climb up on to the big ass rock right at the base and clip the first bolt, then downclimb and start up left. After maybe the 3rd bolt or so, it's a jug haul. Fun, but a little scary on a really windy day... even though the holds are all super positive, the bolts are faaaar apart... if by some chance you take a fall, it's gonna be a big one. Worth doing once, I'd say, but probably won't go back to it. Jun 12, 2012

Wonderful bouldery start to jug haul/easy climbing. Genuinely enjoyed the runout as the section is very easy and no place for natural protection (granted we had a very calm evening session). It lets you realize your exposure and how high you are in the canyon, adding a bolt would take away from this route (runout is not harder than 5.7). Stay focused and appreciate your zen. May 18, 2012

This would be a good beginner lead, if it weren't for the pointless runout at the top. Who bolted this thing? May 2, 2012

First two bolts are the crux, most of climbing above there is much easier. I think the route is fairly well bolted, a bit of a space higher up but on some very easy moves. Jun 21, 2010

Fun route. Crux is def getting past the 1st & 2nd bolt. Fun, easy climbing up top w/enough run out to keep you on your toes. Oct 4, 2009

I used a green Alien somewhere around/between the 5th or 6th bolts and a black Alien between the 8th & 9th ("The Runout") bolts for good measure. The moves around the first few bolts are the hardest part and I enjoyed the rest of it. I did however stand on the boulder to the right and clip the 1st bolt, then started from the ground...a fall off those first moves could be ugly! Aug 14, 2009

Phil, Rope stretch and the amount of slack out by the belayer (some climbers prefer a loose belay) could make a top-roped groundfall a possibility if the climber fell down low. The best solution should obviously be to have the belayer keep a snug-to-tight belay for the first 5-10 feet or so, until rope stretch will definitely not be an issue. Jun 8, 2009

How is there potential for a groundfall on toprope? May 23, 2009

Caught my buddy on a fall off the beginning of this route last year. Well, I should say the bush caught him. It was pretty fun but even on TR there's a big potential for ground fall. Just make sure you got someone spotting you in the beginning of this one. May 22, 2009

Just imagine you're climbing at the Flatirons and the runout shouldn't bother you too much. The holds are all there and positive. Fun route! If you like, the route would go mixed with an assortment of thin to hand sized cams. May 1, 2008

The bottom is tricky, but anyone can figure it out pretty fast (you are on the ground). The 30 foot run out is pretty intimidating at first, but whoever bolted the route figured, if you can lead up to it, you should definitely be able to climb a 5.6 to the next bolt, although I'm not sure why a bolt wasn't placed. Does anyone know? Jun 18, 2006

The first move was easily done by standing on the flake and stepping up with your right foot on the big ramp. The lead was a bit scary since there was a bit of potential for groundfall on the first move. The rest was so pointlessly easy that I don't even think this route is worth doing. I rated it one 5.8 move with a lot of 4th class afterwards to my partners. All the bolts seemed well placed, and the runout didn't bother me. Too bad the anchor wasn't placed a little higher so the last overhang could be part of the climb. Jun 13, 2005

Semi-pile, the runout is the best part. Apr 1, 2005

Does anybody know what the name of this Dan Hare (?) route is? Also: perhaps this discussion is (long?) dead, but I'd add another vote for *not* adding more bolts. I appreciate Peter Beal's perspective (the D'Antonio-esque access-for-all ideology, which is great if that's how you want to put up routes), but I tend to agree with the personal responsibility argument. "rant" Pro opportunities are a fundamental part of *every* climb, sport or no. Suss things out for yourself, make decisions for yourself using the resources available to you (cb.com is major advantage over what we had even a few years ago in this respect...if you wade thru all the garbage), and climb it or don't. The FA party creates a line (and by "line" I mean the rock/pro combo): assess whether or not this line suits what you're up for climbing, and take responsibility for your own choice. If the FA party added enough bolts to make you comfortable, then great. If not, then this line isn't for you...luckily, there are about 10 thousand other lines within an hour to chose from! Finally, if you can't determine whether or not a line is for you with the resources at your disposal (e.g. eyes, brains, internet, friends, etc.) ... well, that's probably a good message that you might be better off moving to something else."/rant" Old fashioned, and Anon by choice... Feb 24, 2005

Greg, I'll give you that one. It does seem a little strange to a bolt so close to anchors after a long run out. My comment about pointless was more directed to the first comment on the site, and that just in general I don't mind when you run it out a bit on a significantly easier section of a climb. But I am also very much for safety and if people think this route lulls unsuspecting climbers into a false sense of security then maybe it needs looking into. Nov 1, 2004

Tony, It's called an extension, link-up, or variation -- it's legit and done all the time... Nov 1, 2004

Thanks everybody for all the reminders that climbing is dangerous. However the bottom of this route is anything but dangerous, while the top is "spicy", climber-talk for don't fall or else. For a naturally protected climb, this makes sense; that's the way Mother Nature intended it. For a rap-bolted moderate, it seems silly. This route could probably be lead all on clean gear, a little "spicy" in sections but no really big deal, difficulty-wise. That makes more sense to me than the current arbitrary set-up now in place, one that is bound to result in some kind of accident, sooner or later. Luring someone onto a route with closely spaced bolts down low and runouts up higher is irresponsible. Make it clear from the beginning what the route is like. Nov 1, 2004

So what are the ethics of adding length and bolts to protect said length to an existing climb? Seems to me it would be the same as adding a "second pitch" and if the climb were a sport climb, it wouldn't change the existing climbing or the nature of the route, it would just add an additional length to it. For my own part, if I had not sent a line to the top of something and someone wanted to add bolts to it to lengthen it, if it already had bolts, then I wouldn't have any question about it at all. Is there an ethic or standard regarding this that I am unaware of? Or could someone (in this case Greg) feel comfortable and beyond ethical qualms in adding another bolt and 15' of climbing to a different set of anchors and call it a hard extension? Nov 1, 2004

Gary, I never said the runout was "pointless". I said the anchors were located in a pointless spot. You do the runout and stand on a ledge and clip a bolt. Then you climb about another 5 feet of nothing difficult and then clip the anchors above your head on an overhanging wall. The climbing from the ledge to the anchors adds nothing to the climb other than make a 50 meter rope not to reach the ground. I would like to have seen it extended another 15 feet above the current anchors to add another crux and have a second set of anchors at the ledge to facilitate getting to the ground. Nov 1, 2004

I found this route to be a good deal of fun. For me the opening sequence was quite tricky, even for 5.9 and from then on quite easy. In MHO the run-out is not "pointless" (thought it did catch me by surprise) because it adds some spice to an easy section of climbing. Oct 30, 2004

I wouldn't be upset if a bolt was added by whoever put up the route. The runout, in my opinion, is only about 5.6-5.7, and it seems unlikely to me if you can lead the 5.9 crux you would fall on a 5.6. I can think of 10 other sport climbs I have found more terrifying due to large gaps between bolts. Oct 26, 2004

Peter, I certainly would not object to another bolt in the runout area. This is not Jules Verne we are talking about. I am not sure why people who object to bolts even climb at Animal World. It is a moderately enjoyable route and I think Dan should extend it another 20 feet.The anchors are in a rather pointless location. Oct 26, 2004

Clearly outlines the difference between the way a sport climber approaches a route and the way a trad climber would. A lot of routes bolted on lead are runout because the first ascentionist only placed a bolt where he could get a stance and where he deemed it necessary. There are a lot of bolted routes that are traditionally bolted and therefore runout on easier ground or where the FA couldn't get a stance or an aid placement no matter how meager. Solid Gold in J-tree comes to mind; Figures on a Landscape, too. The way it is bolted can sometimes full affect the character of a route. Even when a route is bolted one should read the route for runouts, difficulty of climbing near the runout, etc. Thinking for oneself and not assuming the first ascentionist cared about me or my safety is an important part of being a safe and competent climber. No matter how hard you pull. Oct 26, 2004

Peter, climbing is inhenrently dangerous and unpredictable. If you start the route without trad gear and then notice the run out (like I did) you have two choices: run it out (as you and I did) or get lowered and you lose a biner. Otherwise we would need to bolt all the run outs in the Flatirons, too.... At least now, if one reads the description on this site, you know there is a scary run out and that you may need gear. Caveat Emptor WT Oct 26, 2004

My point is that a climber can look at this route at the bottom, think, OK this is safe, then find out, quite a bit higher, that a 20-25 foot runout is mandatory. The next step is go for it or climb back down. Why bother putting in the bolts in the first place? Oct 26, 2004

I agree, the route did not seem overly dangerous to me. The runout part is quite a bit easier than the crux, and you can always bring a stopper or small cam. Oct 25, 2004

I'm in favor of leaving the route as is. If someone is uncomfortable with the route in its current state, then don't climb it. And, as someone mentioned, there are gear options. And, please, don't lecture me on this being "sport climbing area" and no one brings gear. I do agree that a bolt 3 feet below the anchor after a substantial runout seems strange. Oct 25, 2004

I believe that Dan Hare equipped this route, and I suspect that he wouldn't object to adding a bolt or two. Oct 25, 2004

I did this last weekend and would like to suggest that it be retrobolted. The bolts are very close down low and then very far apart up high. The gear you can place is OK but not located in line with the bolts (bring double ropes?) and the last bolt is barely three feet below the anchor. If the equipper could identify him or herself and explain why the route was put up this way, that would be helpful. Otherwise the route should be fixed, before somebody gets hurt on it. Oct 25, 2004

The opening moves of this sucker are tricky to figure out, it seemed to us the easiest way is not really where the bolt is. You can stand on a flake to clip the bolt, but then you have to somehow go back left, maybe even retreating to the ground and starting farther left. From the flake, we traversed and then cranked straight up; this would be a pretty scary sequence without the bolt protecting you ... The runout up high was indeed noticed! It does seem odd when there are 3 bolts in like 10' and then a significant gap, then one more and another 4' higher are the anchors. Sep 19, 2004

Chris, I too led this during high winds, and I also became quite "animated"! Jul 28, 2004

An enjoyable pitch that would rate 2 stars if not for the pointless runout. Exciting in high winds. Jul 28, 2004

Great warm up. Felt way to secure to be 5.9, more like 5.7. Placed a #4 Camalot above the chimney. Worth doing. Mar 12, 2016

This is a fun route, we placed up to a #4 Camalot on lead. Feb 17, 2013

This route is bizarre in that trad climbing sort of way. There are some well-protected moves upon entering the corner, good stems, and tricky gear going out the roof. Body English if you're short, a long reach to a good lock if you're tall. I'll echo Tony B's gear rec. x2 in the 0.3-0.5 Camalot range, some C3s or equivalent, small stoppers and maybe a #1 Camalot. Good, funky, unique route for this grade in Boulder Canyon. May 3, 2014

The crux on this is short but definitely in the 11a range. There are only a few moves at this level, but they definitely exist. Mar 7, 2013

The finger crack at the top is short but real nice. Jun 17, 2010

Although I didn't get this clean, I enjoyed the struggle. The moves through the small roof were bizarre for me. This climb is a bit tainted by the more recent bolted route to the right. On the FA it would have been obvious to stem to the right and step right for a rest, but now that the other route is there doing that felt like cheating. But I did it anyway. Apr 25, 2010

Great climb. The rock and gear are not so good for the first 20 feet, but after the start the climbing and gear are great. Nice and steep. Clipping the first two bolts on the sport climb to the right is a safer alternative, but would change the routes character. 10+/11- Jun 27, 2008

I agree w/ Tony's remark that this would be classic if the good part were maybe twice as long. May 19, 2008

A great climb with some crums near the bottom, but great rock the rest of the way. You can traverse in from the right, past the starting flake on 'Talking Out Of Turn and establish a belay on a few stoppers at the base of this climb. Carry a rack of nuts, a run of small cams (to 0.75") and a 2-2.5" cam. The crux is getting the feet over the lip on a rounded finger-lock above a good nut (maybe a #5 BD stopper or equiv?) For people with small fingers like mine, the top is not difficult at all, but still needs pro. Doubles in thin fingers cam-size (first-second knuckle) will be useful if you like lots of gear, but are not required. If this thing continued another 50', it would be a 4-star classic. Sadly, it is a short line. May 18, 2008

Red Camalot placement is obvious and solid but hardly needed. The climbing at that point is on good holds, and the distance between the bolts is not very big. Sep 29, 2015

Nice climb, would get steady traffic at a more popular crag. A little friable at the start, but the holds are solid through the crux. Seriously thin feet! I didn't finish beyond the 4th bolt - is that traverse section better than it looks? Apr 10, 2015

This is a line in honor of Dale Goddard. Thin, fingery, and fun. Sep 19, 2011

Better be 5'10" or taller to keep it at the grade near the top. The long reach right could turn into a dyno for shorter folks. Sep 29, 2015

I thought an SR was sufficient. Apr 28, 2010

I lead this last night with Seth Musulin and would have called the route 5.8 at the most and R/X (no option on the pulldown tab for R/X). It was chossy but the holds were big enough that it wasn't that big of a deal other than the death pillar 25ft up (first and only place you get gear). Unfortunately 6 other people were below so I did not cut the pillar loose so beware. I'd be careful toproping this line as well as there are a TON of loose rocks above, especially if you use the tree anchor. Also, the route is only 30ft tall, but the tree is back another 20+feet from the top, so the height in the description is technically accurate, but don't expect that amount of climbing. Seth and I also added two new routes to the left side of the crag - a 5.8 crack and a 5.10b R face thing. Apr 28, 2010

I would disagree with Leo that there are two pitches to this route. Yes, there is rock below the starting ledge, but I tried my best to find something harder than Class 4 to get up to the big ledge below where the meat of the route starts. Easy scramble in approach shoes and a pack on. Overall, the route is only 25 feet long (not 65) but fun! Jul 7, 2017

Not knowing what the route was and missing the entry in Crack Land, we did a tiny approach pitch for this 2 pitch line. Most will consider skipping the 1st pitch. The first pitch is lichenous and has a discontinuous nature, but its upper half has a nice smidgen of crack. Perhaps it is 5.7. Oct 4, 2010

Nice work, Jason! Despite being a short route, don't be fooled. It is like a little Vedauwoo simulator, with fun climbing. Jul 31, 2010

This climb starts on the first pitch of "South," a climb not yet listed here and one I've done 4 times. This start is in a very distinct, right-facing dihedral just 20 feet left of the "Bitty Buttress" route and is 5.7; it protects well. Dec 4, 2011

This route has one of the sweetest top outs in BC; a big grassy ledge with some shade and great views. Be careful with the bush just below the dihedral starts, it can snag your rope. The last pitch can be aided at C1 and provides an excellent link-up with Holy Ascension (C2(+?) or 5.13). Most routes adjacent to A's Jax's third pitch can be accessed by scrambling from the left to the top of Peapod's belay ledge and following easy 4th class to the upper ledge system. Oct 6, 2002

Did this route for the first time yesterday. I would agree with Anton - the start is stiff warm-up with little gear. I combined P1 and P2 with a 70m and about 10 shoulder length runners. I had 3m of spare rope at the juniper. Oct 8, 2017

Great route. Every pitch is classic. Average grade on this route is 5.7+/8 IMO. Each pitch has its own crux that challenges you just enough. I would be a solid 5.8 leader before going for this. Protected the start of pitch 1 and pitch 3, as well as high in the crux on pitch 3 with ballnuts (1 and 2). Pitch 3 definitely has a 5.9 move. Never used anything bigger than a #3 c4/new Friend. Offset cams come in handy but not needed. Do roof finish after the crux on pitch 3 then walk off west. I will repeat this route for years to come. Jul 8, 2017

If you are a granite tradmaster, you'll float up this with a smile on your face. If, like me, you are more used to sandstone and clipping bolts, here are a few thoughts on gear: Pitch one is long! I would bring doubles from thin hands to tips, and I wished I had more large stoppers, like 3/4" to 1". I would have placed a couple of small tricams if I had them. I ran out of runners, so I set up a belay and tricked my partner into leading the run out finish of P1! I would probably bring 16 draws for this pitch and all alpine draws as rope drag can be a drag ;) I found the pitch to have good gear at the harder parts and some runouts at the easier parts. I didn't love my third placement off the deck - a shallow C3. At the third pitch crux, I got in the good cam from the good stance below the crux (green C4 maybe?) and flipped in a #4 BD steel nut into the thin crack above. There was a fixed wire in there, but it looked to be jammed upside down, and I didn't bother to clip it, because it looked useless and I couldn't reach it. I didn't fall on the steel nut, but it actually seemed like a decent piece. The start move on P2 off the big grassy ledge was slightly absurd, I went with the awkward high step. I guess there is a more graceful way to do it but not at 5.8 that I could find! Apr 10, 2016

Just led the crux pitches (1&3) on this this morning, and the first 20' or so felt like a stiff warm-up to me with poor protection...8+/9-ish. There are a couple photos on here showing people placing a cam (maybe a 0.5?) in a perfect crack behind a triangular-ish block/flake…this flake isn't completely solid. I gingerly jammed this crack but didn't place gear here despite really wanting to. Seemed like a good idea, but if one were to actually fall onto said placement, I think this block/flake would actually pop off on to your belayer, along with your body. Maybe not. Other than that, outstanding route with a heady start and an exciting crux on P3 (feels 5.9). Definitely belay at the big, grassy ledge at the top of P1, and then combine the 2nd and 3rd pitch (including the 7 roof) into another long second pitch. Jun 25, 2015

We found a single grey Miura (size 41.5) on top of Bitty Buttress today. The shoe is in good shape, so I don't think it was intentionally left behind. Contact me at 303.909.4559 if it's yours. - Scotty Nelson Aug 24, 2013

Fun route with interesting features to keep you on your toes (literally, just the tips of your toes in some parts). Can be done in two pitches with a 70m rope. First pitch to the large ledge (or a bit higher if ya don't want to belay on the super cushy block). Second pitch should end at a large boulder atop the crag where anchor placements are straightforward. 5.8+ first? 5.9- third? let's even it out and call the route a 5.9. For the first pitch, remind yourself that it isn't okay to fail. Because in this case you may end up with a branch up your bum. As always, watch out for ground eels on the approach.... Jun 16, 2012

Awesome route! Got me excited about climbing trad again in BC. I though some moves on P1 were just as exciting as the P3 crux. May 23, 2012

Jan 21. Climbed BB in 60 degree temps, sunny, slight breeze, perfect Saturday. We were the only ones at the crag. The start of pitch 1 is tough to protect, but I did not find it to be a R route. The crux of the first pitch, for me, was the small roof near the top of the. You can cheat out to the left on the slab, but the straight up move is nice. Pitch 2 was ok. Pitch 3 protects well. Commit to the moves you see, it's 5.8+ or 9- (whatever). The holds are there. Cheers, Prod. Jan 22, 2012

Here's another recommendation. Climb Bitty Buttress, then walk uphill a ways, and climb On Ballet on upper Blob Rock. This gives you 6 pitches of nice trad 5.8 and 5.9. I think On Ballet is about the same level of difficulty as Bitty Buttress, and the quality of climbing is also similar. Pitch 2 of On Ballet is a wee bit run out, but if you're comfortable with Bitty Buttress it won't be a problem, since there are also a few wee runouts on BB. Oct 31, 2008

Climb this route, and then hike over and do "The Young and the Rackless" for an extremely fun day. Three fine pitches, 100 yards of scrambling, and 3 more fine pitches. Bitty Buttress is mentally more challenging, but the moves on Y and R are slightly harder. A great warmup for the season if you have been lounging on the couch for a few months. Or if you have out of town visitors, a great way to introduce them to life in Colorado. One of my favorite days in Boulder Canyon. Aug 4, 2008

The route description doesn't mention the descent, so here's one way to go. At the top of P3 under the small roof with the 5.7 crack in it, move carefully to the left. With the exposure, you'll almost want to try and squeeze on by on this ledge, but you're better off hanging your body off the edge and just keeping your hands at that level. Look down the steep wall and locate some footholds to allow you to get your body in a better position. The big gear you brought will protect the traverse nicely. Keep your hands level with the ledge, getting jams and face holds as you go. A ramp will start to reach up below you and you can eventually get onto it and scramble to the large, grassy ledge with a dead tree. Build an anchor here to belay your second across the traverse. You won't be able to talk to your second unless you move all the way to the edge looking back. We did this exit today while it was lightly raining and we were really glad to have pro in. Right where the dead tree is, climb up the rocks and keep to the left. You'll see a clean slab that goes to the summit, but if you keep left you'll better access the large ledge system that gets you down into the gully between Bitty Buttress and the next formation over. Note the various bolted sport routes on the steep, clean wall in the gully on your way down. The start of the route is essentially an arete in case you can't see that in the photos. There is a large, dead tree directly under the arete. As some others mentioned, you can stand on it to start the route. When you get to the top of P1, move around to the right and then up again until you can see the dihedral that starts the second pitch. This gets you in a better position to belay that. If you belay down lower to make it easier to talk to your second on P1, the rope will be having to turn a corner for belaying P2. Plus, the belay up here is really flat and cush. Two large cracks intersect where you sit that will take large cams and your leg as added insurance. Jul 28, 2007

This route has a very nice direct line, although one can never really see the whole route until you get on it. Hats off, once again, to the good ole boys that sniffed out this snoopster. Standard rack with some extra smaller and possibly off set camming devices for the 3rd pitch crux. Exciting and enjoyable. Oct 1, 2006

Never climbed it with the bolts...or when there were .75 Tech Friends or black Aliens. It was a great route to take dates on. Sure miss that baby-angle at the crux, though. Sep 15, 2006

With H. McIntypre 5/21/06. Rossiter guidebook topo suggests a start in the 'Orange Dihedral' and an airy but easy traverse about 40 feet up. We climbed P1 this way and found the pro to be adequate and the traverse fun. P2 start is bouldery. A direct line can be liebacked on the upper part of this pitch and is harder (and more fun) than the 5.6 advertised in the guidebook. P3 follows a flake (didn't look like a 'dihedral' to me). Crux sequence is balancy, a bit subtle, and solid 5.8; take a moment to work it out. Didn't look like the route has seen all that much traffic this spring, maybe it's the long (for Boulder Canyon) approach. No chalk was visible the day we climbed and it had kind of a 'wild' feel to it. May 22, 2006

One move wonder. The belay at the top of P2 is sweet, P3 has 4 cool moves leading up to a fun crux move. Won't do again. Aug 19, 2005

Very quality route, I didn't see the chopped bolts that everyone talked about though. Anyway, I thought the crux was on P1 right at the top on the face. I must have been off route or something because I had to transition to another crack from left to right and that move was much more difficult than the crux on P3. Ron Olsen mentioned above that "the protection is adequate but not ideal" which I found to be perfectly accurate on P1. I felt the crux on P3 was pretty easy. I put in a purple Alien right before the crack ran out and it fits bomber. I tired to put in a blue alien above that but it was just a waste of time as I am certain it wouldn't have held had I pitched off. I was also able to place many times below the purple Alien so the gear protection is pretty good on P3. You just have to suck it up at the crux and climb through; afterall you're only a few feet above your last piece so it's no big deal. A very good climb! Nov 2, 2004

Thank you to whomever chopped the bolts. Oct 27, 2004

No consensus? Well, then I'll cast my vote. I'm glad the bolts are gone, though it doesn't make up for them being there in the first place. After all, the holes remain, no matter how anyone tries to camouflage them. I was annoyed when I saw them last spring. I don't think I even clipped them because they are in a lousy location - they'd just have added drag for belaying up my partner. This route has everything you could want in a moderate trad climb -- great position, fun moves, solid rock, beautiful views, and a couple of moderate runouts to keep you focused. I have no idea why someone saw fit to drill a couple of holes into the middle of it. The bolts, and now the holes, serve only to eliminate the pleasant illusion that you were the first one there, with no significant benefit to safety. Chopping them partially restores the route. Oct 26, 2004

I have climbed this route with and without the bolts. I have also used the bolts, but even if they were there I would not use them again because of the bad location when starting the second pitch. I am glad the bolts are gone. This is a unique and incredible natural line for the grade. Very Fun. Oct 26, 2004

AC:I see Darren Mabe answered the chopped/removed question for you. Looks like neither happened. Occam's Razor is a crappy concept touted by those who wish to forward their over-simplied suggestions to entertain personal indulgences and to push private agendas. Properly applied to to this situation, it would say that some other random climber pounded the bolts in, not that I did it on my way out of town to Indian Creek last weekend. Properly applied to your assertion here, it would say that you must be anonymously grinding a personal axe since you have no real knowledge of the situation. Or you can break free of this O.R. crap and look at it more logically. People have a need for a visible enemy. They like to know who they are fighting, so you blame the situation on me so that you are not fighting an invisible foe. Makes you feel better regardless doesn't it. I don't like the old "someone must hang" mentality though. I think you better get some facts first. But I hope you don't get any, I like watching you suffer the unknown. Oct 26, 2004

I was up there on Sunday. The hangers were already removed and the studs pounded back in, as if it really matters. I was ready to remove them anyway if they were still there when I did the climb. This didn't need a majority consensus. The bolts were not necessary, were not even arranged for a rap anchor (vertical pattern, no chains/rap-rings), at a height more than 30m, and the normal belay is 15 feet higher on a grassy ledge with bomber gear. I shouldn't be wasting my arthritic fingers even typing all of this, the issue is simple: the anchors served no purpose on a multipitch trad climb that has been established probably about 40 years ago. So, what is the argument in the first place? Oct 26, 2004

As you know Tony, "chopped" is a figure of speech. Were the bolts actually CHOPPED or were they REMOVED and the holes filled/camouflaged? In any event, chopping them would be a nice way for a bolt-remover to cover his tracks? Maybe the bolt-remover was under a time crunch. Maybe they were on their way out of town. I'm not accusing anyone, but I am familiar with Occam's Razor. Occam's Razor: A sort of credibility test that holds that all things being equal, the simplest reasonable explanation for a phenomenon is probably the right one. Oct 26, 2004

Man, I hate to get in the middle of this, but, "Judging from the few comments that were posted about these bolts, the majority of the community seems to agree, there isn't a home for bolts on Bitty Buttress" A total of 4 people commented. (I'm ignoring the AC) I don't think this constitutes a majority of the community. Scott and Shad: pro-removalRon: appears neutralStefan: slightly in favor of keeping them. However, since a "majority consensus" obviously did not exist to add the bolts in the first place, it seems appropriate that a "majority consensus" was not needed to remove them. Oct 26, 2004

Hi Ron, Why didn't you ask me personally if I chopped the bolts on Bitty? We've already discussed that. Now here I am, back from the desert (Yes, I've been GONE) and I find myself called to question for this. I think my M.O. has already been well established that I don't *CHOP* anything, so I'm surprised I've been so accused. Oct 26, 2004

I [didn't] chop the bolts, but I am glad to hear that they have been removed. I was actually hoping that whoever marred the route would speak up, but that [didn't] happen either. Thanks to whoever did this communtiy service. Judging from the few comments that were posted about these bolts, the majority of the community seems to agree, there [isn't] a home for bolts on Bitty Buttress. Oct 25, 2004

The belay bolts at the top of the first pitch have been chopped, some time in the past ten days. Anyone care to take credit for this? Shad? Tony? Oct 23, 2004

[I'm] surprised that you [didn't] mind the bolts, [Stefan], since you refused to clip the bolts on the [Dominator] at the [Avalon] (short, now cleaned, good but not a three star route), which seems less of an issue to me than adding bolts on a 40 yr old 3-star classic in the same canyon. If these bolts are for a sport climb, the author of that sport climb should have had the respect for the hardmen that led these pitches in 1964 with leather boots and pitons and probably a rope tied around their waist, and placed the bolts off to the side of the existing climb. These bolts are right in line with the climbing on [Bitty Buttress], except for that the better belay is up another few feet on a comfy grassy ledge. I guess if you need the killer photo op to look down and shoot pics of your second you should belay from these bolts, but i would think you could even get gear on this ledge if you wanted to. Besides the fact that the bolts were added (and if the bolter can vouch that Pat A. said go for it, [I'll] shut up), they [don't] have rings to rap on. Plus, who carries two ropes up this kind of climb, except a party of three? What seems likely to happen is that an inexperienced party would think they are finished with what probably seemed a spicy 5.8 pitch, decide there is a second anchor below since they [don't] see an obvious 2nd pitch and then rap into oblivion since you would need two ropes to get down. So in my opinion the bolts are not only unsightly and unnecessary, and possibly disrespectful, but they may serve to add further danger to the route. Oct 12, 2004

They are right at the top of the first pitch of BB. The bolts are on a small (~1-2') ledge on your left, not the huge ledge below the 1st move of P2. I would guess that they were placed for BB, and not the sport climb on the left, but I have not done the sport climb. They were there sometime back in April or May when I last did this climb. You can't even see them until you are standing at the ledge, and they're actually placed quite conveniently for belaying up the second. I had done this climb 2-3x previously, and I didn't feel they changed the nature of the climb itself. However, I will agree that they serve purely as a convenience anchor. Oct 12, 2004

Are the new bolts on Bitty Buttress (BB) proper or on the newish sport route to the left? I'm assuming the latter; that would be really bad if somebody reto-bolted this classic trad line. Oct 12, 2004

I agree about the bolts. They are totally unnecessary. I'm usually not one to be offended by bolts, but these should be removed. Oct 12, 2004

After 40 years with no one putting the drill to this climb, the best 5.8 in Boulder Canyon, why did someone deem it necessary to drill two bolts next to decent cracks? If I routinely carried a crowbar, there wouldn't be anymore bolts. You should be embarrassed. Oct 11, 2004

There is a 2-bolt anchor atop the first pitch that wasn't there last year. No rap rings, however. Jul 4, 2004

You can protect the opening moves with a small cam (1-1.5cm). I had my belayer hand it up to me after I got another piece in. Did anyone else find pitch 3 ambiguous? I've done it twice, the "wrong way" both times. The first time I headed left. It couldn't have been more than 5.7, considering it did it at night with a headlamp (we were delayed by my diabetic partner's hypoglycemia). The second time (yesterday) I headed right because I'd used the cams that would have protected the crux. It felt a full grade harder than pitch 1, so I'll call it 5.9. It also puts you too far right to belay - your partner won't appreciate being poorly protected on the traverse left to the belay ledge. You can link pitches 2 and 3 with a 60m rope - but watch the rope drag and save some cams for the crux. May 21, 2004

This is an excellent route. Great position. I've led this route once before and it ranks high for best in the canyon for the grade in my book. IMO the first 20' is no harder than (8) with good pro.I would guess this start was harder when the fallen tree wasn't there. Moving left onto the slab in the final 15' of P1 is a bit balancey and runnout.A .5 cam under a hollow flake/undercling was my last placement in that last 10', but its easy climbing. I could see where the start of P2 could be troublesome for some shorter people, but the upper corner in the last 2' felt like the crux on the pitch to me. No harder than (8) though with good pro. P3 is spicy in the last 10'. Fun varied climbing with good placements up to that point.As Ron mentions, a .75 cam is bomber just below the crux. A black alien will fit a foot higher, the blue does not fit.IMO the crux sequence felt (9) moving up and left. Mar 25, 2004

This route is incredible to do on sunny winter days. It was a no shell or jacket day.Getting off the ground just above the fallen dead tree log feels a bit challenging. After moving six feet up, I found myself moving left to step up a few ledges before traversing back right. The majority of P1 is pure bliss....fun climbing with great gear placements. You just keep moving up and the route will push you to step left out onto the face (near the end of the pitch).Getting off the ledge on the start of P2 can also be challenging if you are short. I have one lay back move with wide leg stemming action before I can grab good holds and feel solid. The rest of P2 is fun and again full of good gear placements. The crux is defnately on P3 just before you top out and if you are a relatively new 5.8 leader bring a rope gun or be super confident on your feet and have great balance. I want to follow P3 one more time before leading it as the crux feels like a 5.9 move to me. Enough said, perhaps too much said. Enjoy! Jan 12, 2004

One comment on the gear: on the third pitch, I get in a #2 Camalot low in the corner, a #.75 Camalot several feet higher, and then a red #1 Lowe ball nut in the thin parallel-sided crack just before the crux. Regarding the approach: I use the gully directly below the rock that starts about 50 yards downstream from the Cob Rock parking area. It is a little loose in spots, but there is a reasonable climber's path all the way up, after an initial scramble past an easy steep rock band. The danger of knocking down loose rocks is minimal, and it's a lot faster than traversing over from the Blob Rock trailhead. Sep 30, 2003

A wonderful, thought-provoking climb with adequate, but less-than-perfect pro on the first and third pitches. An optional fourth pitch, up a 5.7 overhang directly above the third belay, is highly recommended. Short but fun. Run out the rope and belay near the top of the summit slabs. Tag the summit of Bitty Buttress on your way to the descent gully. Sep 30, 2003

There's a giant nest on the far far right of the ledge at the top of the first pitch. It's very visible if you walk off from the top of the route around to the East (towards Boulder) and down a gully (the second inviting gully, the first one is a cliff). Dec 16, 2002

Usually not one to make comments about routes, but... There's a sweet #10-ish stopper placement 5-10 feet up, several places for small nuts/micro cams near the dihedral the next 5-10 (ok, some of these are a little shady...), and big block to sling 5-10 feet aout the above mentioned gear. R? nah. Just sporty.dave brannon Dec 15, 2002

Let's call a spade a spade! Both the opening 20ft. and the final moves are 5.9 and R to boot... Dec 14, 2002

A perfect #1 Camalot made the crux seem protected. This has to be my favorite 5.8 in Boulder Canyon. The first time I did it, I got juked and lost the toss for the first lead. Dave hollered down "it's 5.9 sport climbing with no bolts." After returning and leading it all, I'd agree, splendid. Jul 23, 2002

This sunny route has some steep and varied moves on it. Leave the big gear at home, most of the pro is finger to thin hands. Extra finger sized cams and the smallest tricams are useful. The descent is a walk off to the west along a 3rd class ledge system. May 1, 2002

A climb I have done many times, and it always gives me a thrill moving through that crux. Great lunch spot on the small ledge, just before the crux. Dec 5, 2001

This is one of the best, if not THE best route in Boulder canyon that Ive climbed. 3 sustained, steep, exposed and FUN pitches.....half face and half crack....I wouldn call the 3rd pitch a dihedral (as Rossiters book says) but a flake/finger crack that peeters out with the awesome balancy crux above the crack......GREAT Route....Highly recommended.... Jan 1, 2001

I love how all strong climbers compare everything to Rifle, which is kinda bs because Rifle is known for being funky, sandbagged, hard to read sequences and being just plain weird. Remember you're climbing in Boulder Canyon, home of soft, straightforward climbing. It seems stupid to compare the two. Maybe we should compare all of BC to The Gunks, in that case this route is only 5.10. Oct 15, 2013

I'd like to consider myself a solid 5.13 climber having put down five different 5.13s within a five week period just before getting on this route. I got shut down hard at the crux of this route. I was also not impressed by the quality of the route. The moves were awkward, holds were sharp, and some of the feet were a slippery type granite. Some of the holds were moist from a recent rain, I will have to go back and revisit it in drier and colder conditions. Either way, Lorax and Rise and Shine deserve a lot more attention than this route in my opinion. On the other hand, the wall that the Buzz is on is very inspiring and impressive looking down on it from high up in the gully. Very striking and photogenic for sure.... Jul 11, 2012

Sorry, AC from 71.208.46.17, but I sent the Buzz 2nd try on Thursday 9/22, and scored a crappy bail biner in the process. Post back when you're ready to not make a fool of yourself. Since you are curious about the grade, this route is easier than both Hang 'em High and I'm Not a Philistine, both Rifle 12c, and about the same overall difficulty as Movement of Fear. Go get on In Your Face or Beer Run to see what real 12+ and 13- routes feel like. Sound credible enough? Sep 26, 2005

Hmmm, 12c especially if you bail before the crux even starts -- you may want to redpoint first, and remove your bail biner -- would make for a move credible statement... Sep 24, 2005

Beautiful climb. 12c at Rifle. Sep 23, 2005

I have sent The Buzz, but I haven't put away Vasodilator yet. In my opinion, Vasodilator is a bit more difficult, because it is relentlessly hard from top to bottom. The crux of The Buzz may be a tad harder than any of the moves on Vasodilator (although the egg-like rounded arete at the end of Vaso is pretty sick), but the climbing on either side of the crux is only 12a. So you only have to do hard moves for about 8 feet. Vasodilator is super continuous and pumpy - more hard climbing for sure. Sep 27, 2002

In my opinion, Vasodilator is the best .13a pitch in Boulder Canyon, although I have not climbed every .13a there... Sep 27, 2002

Is this an easier or harder send compared to Vasodilator -- has anyone redpointed both? Which is the better 13a project to work? Sep 27, 2002

The anchor at the top of the first pitch was upgraded last weekend courtesy of Climbing Magazine and the Anchor Replacement Initiative. The old very manky webbing is gone and chain and rings are now in place. Jan 23, 2009

The D'Antonio guide shows an anchor above this climb, but one does not exist. Nov 9, 2013

There is no bolt anchor for this route or to its immediate left. You can easily make a gear anchor, and there is a large block you can sling. The D'Antonio guide shows there is an anchor that is not there. The only bolt anchor is above Razor Hein Stick. Nov 9, 2013

I don't think there is an anchor for this route. Nov 2, 2009

10a, one star for me. Nov 26, 2006

There is a more pleasant and easier variation at the start coming in from the left side face and getting established on route at the third bolt. Pre-clip bolts 1 and 2 before starting. The overall rating does not change, as the technical crux is after the 5th bolt. Oct 19, 2016

Beta: Skip the 6th bolt and pull straight onto the slab above the 5th bolt. The 6th bolt is poorly located and guides you on a contrived yet harder sequence pulling onto the slab out left. Now that the route has been extended out the bulge at the finish, bring a couple of long draws as well. Jun 9, 2006

This is one of the best sport climbs in Boulder Canyon that I have done; super steep, sustained, and challenging, not to mention impressive looking. The start free of the "glue bridge" entails one of the shittiest finger locks you should ever hope to grab, the middle features a cryptic hand jam to sloper sequence, and the finish is climatic, with a wild reach to the lip of the roof like feature that the Lorax ascends. The 12a to the left makes a good warm up and is classic in its own right. As an added bonus, you get to commune with the mountain pigeons that live in the chimney! Nov 27, 2012

Good to hear. Nov 25, 2010

I ran into a well-known local climber the other day in the Blob area who claimed that he had just removed the glue feature from the starting crack/seam. My guess is that it is now a bit harder. Nov 23, 2010

The glue should go. It's a deliberately created hold that doesn't appear to be necessary. Until it's cleaned up, it's an AO route. Nov 6, 2006

What's the story with the cement/glue "bridge" feature in the crack between bolts 3 and 4 (2nd and 3rd off the ledge) at the first crux? I definitely don't see any purpose for it except to improve a horrendously bad finger lock. Jun 9, 2006

My first try on Return to Sender left me with the following impression. P1 is 5.8 to a dirty corner that involves a somewhat dangerous "behind your back" clip that transitions you to the next slab after one or two steep moves on very questionable rock. From here, make easy moves on loose, dirty rock (careful not to pull anything down and kill somebody) and encounter one move of 5.11a followed by low angle 5.7 or 5.8 slab to the first set of anchors. P2 features a nice variety of "snappy" "hollow" crimpers and flakes all poised brilliantly on a Volkswagen-sized block that looks like it could break away from the wall entirely with the right amount of conviction. The crux will catch your attention indeed, not so much by the "wild move" that has been advertised but more so by the sloping ledge that you may or may not strike if you happen to miss. A few more awkward throws gets you to the final set of anchors which consequently are guarded fabulously by a choice selection of football to microwave size blocks. Again, be careful not to pull anything down and kill somebody. Enjoy! Nov 28, 2009

My first try on Return to Sender left me with the following impression. P1 is a nifty way to link up two slabs that get you to P2, which would otherwise have a rotten approach. In its own right P1 is a blast and entails some nice thin slabbing with a tough mantle in the link up. It looks like it needs some brushing, but while climbing that seemed insignificant. P2 is the meat, and I won't give anything away. It has two cruxes, as Mark indicated. The lower crux will be very height dependent. I hung off the jug at the end of the first crux and could just graze my toe on the spot used to launch the move. If you are 6' 5", it might feel 5.10, if you are 5' 7" it would feel like 5.14. There are two solutions, but the short person variation will certainly come at higher than 5.12a/b. The second crux is what it is, either you do it or you don't. It's a nifty and very technical dyno, a brief, perfect althletic moment (or perhaps several attempts at a brief, perfect athletic moment). Nice addition. Solid rock. Well protected. And it gets good early sun. Jan 3, 2004

Very fun route and great warm up. You really only need a few pieces, medium offset master cams are helpful. 5.10. Nov 19, 2013

The trad part of this pitch has some great rests, unlike most of the climbs on this section of the wall. Some of the placements are a little funky, but there's more gear than appears from the ground. I was able to sew it up. Great pitch! Unusual moves through the bolted section, with some great climbing on the steep finish. Strenuous to actually clip the anchor. Jan 30, 2011

This route has great hand jams interspersed with thinner off fingers-size crack jams. The route is fun and worth doing. Dec 20, 2016

Fun route and worth doing if you are in the area. Unfortunately, ends in a dirty thin corner that detracts from the climb overall. NO ANCHOR even though the book indicates one - downclimb low 5th class to the west (or downlead). There are two cold shuts about 30 feet west of the route, but easier to just downclimb. May 31, 2016

Rodger is incorrect. Erickson's book is referring to Mirage on The Short Cliff with Three Cracks, below Bitty Buttress. This is Right Crack. It was also called Last Crack on the Right in Boulder Climbs North, but the FA is unknown. Jul 29, 2015

The correct name for this climb is: Mirage, 5.9 according to the old Erickson guide. FA: Dan Hare and Allen Bradley, in 1979. I rated it as a 5.9+ when I climbed it back in the mid 1980s. I didn't think it was a 10 then.... Dec 4, 2011

I would give this climb 3 starts if it weren't for the rotten rock at the 2nd-4th clips. Careful, but the upper section is great and a little sustained. Nov 3, 2014

Definitely fun climbing and a great route. Certainly tricky moving off the ledge and onto the upper headwall. Great fun. Be very careful of a loose, microwave-sized, loose block in the lower dihedral. It's a death block for sure and used as an obvious hand hold and foot placement as you moved past. Climb with caution.... The upper headwall is enjoyable face climbing with a fin finish liebacking a slanting crack in the ceiling.... Jul 11, 2012

Excellent climb. Very well bolted, and no clips are hard to make. In late May, the climb gets some morning shade from the Lorax roof, but the belay alcove is hot. Shade by 1 pm. For rope drag, consider clipping the first bolt on the regular (not direct) start with a long runner, then move over to the direct start and clip the third bolt with a long runner (i.e. skip the second bolt on the non-direct start). This keeps your rope off the rock. The move off the ledge (6th bolt) is probably the thinnest, but the climbing doesn't really let up after that. Consider differentially resting your right hand (sacrifice the left a little), to save for the top, where it's still pumpy. Also, you can move right while still below the top bolt then clip from the right, rather than working up the rounded L-facing arete. Otherwise, you have to downclimb a few moves to go right to the anchors anyway. May 30, 2012

If it weren't for the crappy rock and blocky, awkward climbing down low ,this would be a 3 star route. It's worth the time though. Oct 16, 2011

This may be the best 12a in Boulder Canyon, reminiscent of limestone climbing if you can believe it. And honest at the grade too. I thought the crux, unquestionably, was getting started on the upper face at bolt #6. The upper part is very pumpy featuring a burly match on a sloping horn... maybe a redpoint crux for some, but not as technically difficult as lower down. Watch out for some bad rock in the initial corner. The trad variation to the upper part is excellent, and worthy of 3 stars as well. Aug 3, 2005

This route has potential but needs some major gardening. The route follows the dihedral but has lots of bushes and dirt. The line is very aestethic though. We did a bit of pruning just to get up it but it needs more work to earn the star it gets in Bob D'antino's book. I agree with his 5.8 rating. The second pitch (the one shared with A's Jax) is much cleaner and has a nice roof/chimney that looks much harder than it is. Jul 25, 2012

You can use the cold shut anchor on Razor Hein Stick to get down. Nov 9, 2013

Climbs lacking loose debris, whether rock or lichen, haven't necessarily been climbed previously. Those may be composed of a more resistant rock and/or lie in areas more exposed to wind and sun. Conversely, lichen-infested climbs that have lots of loose rock might have been climbed previously. I have left most of my many shaggy passages in original condition because I chose not to chalk, clean, brush, or trundle, although I have moved or tossed rocks that threatened my companions. A subsequent visitor may assume that s/he is doing a first ascent. Nov 25, 2015

A fun (mostly trad) 5.10 variation can be climbed in the dihedral, a few feet to the right of the first four bolts. Continue up to the fifth bolt, staying to the right of the 11d section. Clip more bolts and place more gear, as you reach back left to the upper part of Bands and climb 5.10 to its anchors. Nov 1, 2013

I found this climb and loved it, it has a lot for a moderate climb - crimps, slaps, slopes, heels, cracks, aretes, and much much more - but I agree with the above mentioned statement. Whomever bolted this route needs to do the rest of the climbing world a favor and never bolt again. My favorite part is the bolt that was placed too deeply and is simply sitting in the face with no anchor whatsoever - thank you for not actually putting an anchor on that bolt by the way - but the route is a very interesting climb. Altogether, the landing is stellar, the climb is in the shade and bolts 5-14 are part of an amazing climb. Glad I found it, if it wasn't for the bolting, I would have rated this a 2 star problem. Aug 12, 2011

I found this to be the most poorly bolted (dangerous) sport climb I've done in Boulder Canyon. At the bottom, the bolts are so close you might z-clip, then it's "adventure sport climbing" through plants, trees, loose rock, and hard to reach bolt hangers above the first big ledge. The upper section of this pitch is extremely dirty and the anchors are positioned in a way that causes continuous strain on the rope. The overall line is very nice however and a few pieces of supplemental gear (and a wire brush) might make this climb more enjoyable. Jul 12, 2011

Tough climb. Even without the right-shoulder-dislocating, V-Gnar-Gnar crux getting into the corner, this thing would still be solid 5.12. One of the hardest cruxes on a 5.12 around Boulder — maybe a longer wingspan helps? May 19, 2013

I redpointed this in the Fall of 2008 just before my partner Kaelen Williams did. He redpointed both "Resinator" (5.12d) and "Caught In The Web" that day. As for me, it is my second day on this route in 2008. I had tried the route years before that. This route has some sustained, technical, vertical to overhung climbing on it. I enjoyed the unusual nature of the climb. It was very challenging. There are some things that detract from its quality. The belay zone in the talus is not great. Lowering off the bottom 20 feet sends you down through bushes, unless you swing left and come down the start of the route. The 5th and 7th bolts are higher than they need to be. Put a long Petzl quickdraw on the 5th bolt but not a long sling. I still have a small battle scar on my bicep where the biner and rope pinched my skin when a weighted the rope at this bolt with a long sling on it. The 7th bolt can be clipped with the left hand on the crystal knob if you double draw it. Otherwise, skip the bolt or clip it past the final crux up the diagonal ramp corner. Feb 24, 2011

Definitely hard for .12c. I don't think this was really anything like Flying Beast. Way more technical, not as much power endurance. You can get a good stem rest before exiting the dihedral. Sep 26, 2008

This thing is brutal -- a very shouldery press move after the 4th bolt is the crux but the next 15 feet remain hard. Powerful route... Jul 13, 2008

You guys are too modest: this is stout even for 12c; it's similar in difficulty and feel to Flying Beast on Easter Rock. The cross over into the corner at the fourth bolt is brutal (the start of the business) and then it's sustained almost to the end. It may seem odd to give beta for the 5.6 approach to a 12c, but you'll be a lot safer going to the first [bolt] through the bushes on the right than trying to climb in from the left. Great job. Thanks. Jun 26, 2005

A stellar slab route. Definitely "well" bolted. Would be quite a bit more fun if the bolting was a bit spicier...but very fun. I found it easier than Gyromancy, and would suggest a grade of no harder than 5.11a. Jul 26, 2015

Great route. Thanks, Vaino, for doing such a fine job bolting & cleaning. That said, shame on Bob D'Antonio for putting it in his Boulder Canyon guidebook that you can get down this climb with a 60 meter rope & to Ron Olsen for doing so in this post. Please refer to my guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume II (2005)" that states bring a 70 meter rope or two ropes to descend. A guidebook writer shouldn't given a pass by the climbing community or industry for such a dangerous error. So here is a trick to get down this route with a 60 meter rope. Anchor in at the top anchor & be taken off belay. Pull the rope up through all the protection bolts & drop it back to the ground. Have your belayer put you back on belay. Make sure they put a knot in the end of the rope. As you are lowered, the belayer can walk left uphill so they are standing on higher ground. This should solve the problem & allow you to lower to the ground. May 5, 2015

This route is excellent, with great rock, great moves, and interesting holds. Some shenanigans were required to lower with a 60m rope. Sep 9, 2013

Fantastic line. I think this feels more like 11d than 11a/b. Felt harder than almost all of the 11s I've done at Rifle or in Boulder Canyon. Sep 8, 2013

Really good route. Overall more sustained than The Scientist over at Plotinus, but the actual crux is significantly easier. Being a slab, you can pretty much rest anywhere on it, so overall I would say this is easier than The Scientist. Nice, long route with good rock quality and continuous climbing. Jul 18, 2012

60 m rope puts you like 20' off the ground when lowering.... Grade seems good-ish to me..? Sep 19, 2010

I hate to sound like I'm ragging on Boulder Canyon grades. I usually agree with them, and besides, I expect each area (and climber) to have their own biases one way or another. But, compared to the slabs I've done in JTree, Squamish and the Valley, I think this route is way over graded. It's still a fun route though. Nov 5, 2008

An awesome pitch! One of the best in Boulder Canyon at the rating. I agree with the 11b/c for onsight. A little easier once you know where the secret holds are. Sep 28, 2008

Superb, sustained slab climbing. The crux is at least .11a and probably .11b. If you plan on climbing Kate Moss as well as Consilience, a 70m rope (or two 60s) is mandatory. Lowering from Consilience takes 105' -110' of rope; lowering from Kate Moss takes about 115'. Aug 8, 2005

Very fun route and an interesting slab climb. D'Antonio is the FA Meister!! Thanks for this one Bob! I was surprised to see so many excellent climbers rating this 11 and not even easy 11. Maybe I am off here but it makes me think I was on the wrong route ... To offer some benchmark comparisons for perspective. > Crux of Aerospace in Eldo rated 11b, > last Pitch of Doub Griffith rated 11b, > 1st pitch of Athletes Feat rated 11a, > 1st pitch of Country Club rated 11c, > Naked Edge Don't get me wrong. I'm not dissing the route, at all, because it is great climbing and really fun. A great addition by Bob, Vanio & Moe all of whom can can climb way harder than this. However nothing on this route feels even close to as hard as any single crux on the comparison routes I listed. That's just my opinion in trying to bring some perspective to some route ratings in Bolter Canyon which many times seems to be on some other scale than the US Yosemite Decimal System when it comes to ratings on many of the bolted routes. Line this up next to slab routes else where in the USA rated 11 and I don't think it compares. Enjoy, but watch out when lowering off this one as a 200 foot rope is not quite long enough to get you all the way down!!! Jun 15, 2005

Fantastic climb - the midsection is reminiscent of the second pitch of Earth Voyage in Dream - delicate diagonal. We predict though that we'll hear soon about someone decking off of this line - 60m given the variability in lengths of 60m cords isn't necessarily sufficient - 70m better! Kate Moss and the neighbor to the right are worthy warmups as well. Sep 11, 2004

A stellar climb; probably the best sport route I've done in Boulder Canyon. Continuously interesting climbing from bottom to top, with many 5.10 moves and several spots of 5.11. The route was quite clean, with no moss or lichen in evidence. The move to the first bolt wasn't too bad; I didn't feel the need for a stick clip. A 70m rope works well, allowing you to lower or rappel with a few feet of rope to spare. Aug 26, 2004

There may be only one other slab climb better than this in Boulder Canyon. That would be, in my opinion, Bearcat Goes to Hollywood. We had rope shortage with 60 meters, and had to leave a biner. It was worth it. Finding the route is straightforward. It is not very far up the gully between Black Widow and Vampire. The picture on the route description makes its location obvious. There is another route just to the left (Kate Moss?) that is unappealing in appearance. Jun 7, 2004

From talking to BobD on the day he put this up, I know that the FA date was August 26, 2003, not January 1, 2002. Also, somehow the cliff got left out here. According to what Bob told me, this route is on the extreme left side of the Black Widow Slab, sorta in the gully area between Black Widow and Vampire, or at least that's how I understood what Bob said. This route is clearly visible from Blood Doll on Vampire. I'm looking forward to trying it, it sounds cool. BobL Aug 29, 2003

Great route. The bolts could use a refresh as the post crux bolt is a spinner, and most of the hangers have an aged look. It's a mix of wedges and sleeves. The anchor could use a make over too as it's sporting webbing now w/ perma biners. A few critical large holds on the route are slathered in glue which detracts from things a bit. Jul 5, 2016

This is a link to a video of a couple of time lapses I took on the route. youtu.be/090SUfyj_zs Oct 7, 2014

Good rock, great clipping stances, awesome movement. I don't think it necessarily deserves 4-stars, but I think 3.5 would be appropriate. The only drawback is that the crux is over all too soon.... Probably a bit harder for shorter folks, but I guess shorties have done it quite easily in the past? Some long draws are nice. May 6, 2014

Nice! Sep 11, 2013

Yes, my girlfriend is 5'1" and did that move completely static. She actually flashed the route fairly easy after watching me. We constantly get on routes where there is a "height" dependent move, and she always figures out a way to do it, usually with just higher feet than most people will use. I did The Juice (12d) last year with a crux I was told couldn't be done unless you're over 6' tall. I'm 5'7" and did the move really easily with some uber high feet. Power to the short people! Sep 11, 2013

(Big thanks to Chris for sending me some beta to read during my bus commute!) Dracula is a really fun route, although if you don't have really long arms, I could see the last move of the crux as being a bit frustrating. My arms were fortunately just long enough to keep it from being too heinous. I would love to watch a really good, smaller climber do this route - it would probably be an impressive display. Couple quick notes: this route makes a good, quick, after work project - there are no tweaky moves, so you don't need a warmup route. The first half is easy and slabby but still really nice climbing. You will want a 12" draw on the 2nd bolt on the headwall, otherwise the rope wants to grind over a fairly sharp edge as you traverse up and right. Also, don't be discouraged if you struggle on your first attempt. It would be a tricky onsight, but once you dial a couple things in, the climbing just comes together really nicely. The last couple bolts seemed like they were placed a bit higher than I wanted, but with some patience, it works out. Some of the bolts seemed kind of old. Not sure if it was the lack of washers that gave me that impression? Anyway, do this route - it is pretty sweet. Jun 26, 2013

I really enjoyed this. My first 12b and totally safe and easy to work on. May 27, 2013

5.9 slab, to 5.11 cross through gastons, to cryptic crux, to slightly insecure, 10+, hanging arete. Well-protected. Super fun. Sep 30, 2011

Tricky route to onsight but well worth the effort to do so. Not a great route to push the grade on in my opinion as a groundfall is possible if you blow the hardest (yeah, the hardest moves are off the ground) moves of the route getting to the first bolt. Being tall is helpful and footwork is key higher up. Good crack moves to finish the route as well. Jun 28, 2014

Great variety and fun moves. I felt the crux was higher. Traversing out past the chalky, sloping pillar on the final face. Took an excellent whip here! Getting out of the low dihedral at bolt 3 is easy but reach-dependent. Aug 14, 2013

This is a fun route with a wide variety of moves. Stick-clipping isn't necessary, but not a bad idea. If you're tall enough, you don't have to mess around with the jugs below and can get holds high and levitate your feet. Getting out of the dihedral after the second bolt is probably the crux. The dihedral can be stemmed or the dihedral's left arete laybacked. The arete/face above requires some thought. Sep 1, 2009

As for the naming of this route, [Rolofson] would like you to believe that we named it as some sort of slag about the [Eldo ACE committee (he has had his "moments" with the committee), but this is not the reason we named it "fuck you", it was a spur of the moment joking around while getting "baked" at the base of the route that one of our party uttered the phrase and it stuck. There were more people involved in the establishment of this route than [John] and myself. Jul 14, 2005

Decent climbing, but I spent more time trying to figure out how to clip the 5th bolt from a decent stance than climbing the rest of the route. Pay attention well in advance, or you can get a little bit hung out to dry (like me). Sep 19, 2012

Along with Consilience and Kate Moss this climb rounds out a great trio of routes here. One can also rap from the top of Consilience to the anchors on Gyromancy and turn the 70 meter rap into 2 35 meter raps. Sep 28, 2008

Young Doug...I led this route, and my partner Kevin led its neighbor to the left. Both of us agree that this route was a full number-grade easier. We also both agree that this route was not as hard as Super Slab. Mmmm. Sep 23, 2005

An excellent pitch. Fun moves, clean rock. Sustained, thoughtful climbing from the fourth bolt to the top. The two-finger pocket is really good!Would be a three-star route if it were twice as long. Jul 17, 2004

Very good, with several baffling cruxes. Three people did the hard bit at the fourth bolt three different ways, but all were fully engaged higher and wondering what Bob would consider to be a "bad" two finger pocket. This isn't one of Vaino's typcial Mr. Science names... were you going around in circles looking for Divination? Sep 1, 2003

Great climb. It has cleaned up quite well - I don't even remember any moss on route except some easily avoidable on the easy ramp in the middle of climb. Super long and generally sustained except for a short section in the middle. Felt more like consistent 5.9 to me than 5.10 movement...even for BOCAN. 70m just works, but be careful and tie a knot. Thanks to the equipers. Oct 5, 2017

This is a nice, long and sustained route out of direct sun nearly all the time, a cool alternative in warm weather. Aug 21, 2017

Climbed this yesterday. It's nice and long. We wanted to summit the whole tower, so I led up above the anchors. You can get a good cam in the undercling above the anchors, but that's pretty much the last good piece. Further up, there's a shitty bolt that I don't trust - maybe an old Star Dryvin that wasn't driven in all the way with the nail bent over. Anyway, even above the bolt, I didn't see gear opportunities so I downclimbed (it looks like there is in the photo, but there isn't). The climbing wasn't too hard, but all the moss and no pro made it feel sketchy. Looks like it could have been cool had I made it all the way to the large, horizontal crack below the roof systems. Anyone tried it? Above Kate Moss on Black Widow Slab in Boulder Canyon. Sep 14, 2014

I found some climbing shoes at the base of Kate Moss. If they are yours, send me a message. Greg Jun 23, 2014

There is very little moss on this route. It has cleaned up well. Very consistent climbing with almost no gimmies. Aug 14, 2013

A very good and long pitch. And a good warm up for the other great climbs here. It seems that this area is somewhat overlooked as the climbs are excellent and the competition for routes is nil. There is a quick link on the 3rd bolt about 30 feet up which allows one to rappel from the anchors and then pull the rope and rap again from the 3rd bolt. It looked like a much better set up for descending could easily be set up by putting a double anchor 3 bolts down from the top and then extending the upper 3 bolts into another 60 meter pitch. Curious since the descent takes away from the quality of the route. Sep 28, 2008

Excellent 5.8 or maybe 5.9 climbing with good bolting, not too close together and good clipping stances. A very nice, long pitch with great climbing. 70m just gets you off, so pay attention. Sep 1, 2008

I had a blast on this route. Lots of fun moves, and maybe most of the offending moss is gone now? Whatever. We used a 70-meter rope and still didn't reach the ground -- my partner lowered me to the end of the rope and I untied from about 5 feet up, where there was a good stance. May 30, 2008

Wasn't that much fun. Go Plotinus Wall if you REALLY want to get on some good .10s. Vaino and Bob hit it on the head over there. Chore Boy and Mr. Sandman are excellent! Aug 20, 2007

Perhaps a bit of mass hysteria here,unless B and V have a 2nd pitch planned, i'd have left it to the mosses. Jun 27, 2005

Still a bit dirty, but intricate, varied and sustained. This is a top-notch pitch! Aug 4, 2004

I was put off going to this climb by all the moss talk. If you have to touch any moss, you have wandered off route. This is a fantastic climb. Probably the best sport route of its grade in the canyon. On a hot afternoon, it is a most pleasant location with a natural swamp cooler nearby. Plus, there are two harder routes at the same location. Bring two ropes, or a real loooooong one. Jul 19, 2004

Even with the moss, the moves are so good that this is a three-star climb. Sustained, interesting climbing from bottom to top. Bring a 70m rope or two ropes; the pitch is about 130' long. Jul 17, 2004

What a great route! Excellent, sustained, varied movement over a long pitch. Nice shade for a hot summer day, with a reasonably comfortable belay zone. A 70 meter rope just makes it back down from the anchors. Thanks Vaino and Bob. Jun 7, 2004

...what Tank said. Fantastic little route. BoCan 4 starz. Jun 8, 2014

One of the best short, hard routes in the Boulder area. Kind of a boulder problem, albeit a long and classic one on great stone. May 22, 2011

If Dracula is 12b, this thing is certainly harder...cool route, but it's a bit weird at the start. The finish is amazing and pumpy if you stay on the face. Aug 1, 2017

I don't know what hold broke at the 2nd bolt. I was on this climb in Fall 2016. It seems like it's the same hard move with small holds that it always was. I have always climbed it just left of 2nd bolt. Perhaps you were trying it more to the right. Mar 26, 2017

A key hold broke at the second bolt, making that move left much more difficult. Aug 23, 2015

Thanks for your comment, Jack. Bob's book is just wrong about climbing the crack on the upper part (pitch 2) of the climb & so is the route description posted on this page of MP. The crack is Bong Session. I have climbed both routes, & I love Pipe Dreams. Please refer to the earlier guidebooks such as Richard Rossiter's or my "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume II". The climb ascends the face which has some nice pockets. I really like this part of the route. Yes, the crux is at 2nd bolt. I do prefer to avoid stemming to the mossy dihedral (around 8th bolt), because the face climbing up the seam is so cool. Stemming takes away from the sustained nature of this part of the climb. Yes, you can call it contrived if you like. The nearby dirty corner detracts from the quality, but it is obvious to me that it is off route. May 22, 2015

The second half of this climb is confusing. From the ledge, I saw three options: 1. climb straight up the bolted face above the ledge; 2. climb the hand crack to the left of the bolts to its own anchor, this is what the guidebook says to do; 3. climb the corner on the right and reach over and clip. The upper part is weird with a lot of options. It might be a better route if it stopped at the first anchor. Also stemming into the corner on the first half is the smart way to climb it, staying on the face the whole time is way contrived. If this route stopped at the first anchor, I still think it would be 12b due to the hard start. Jul 17, 2013

To clarify this route description, the second section stays just to the right of the wide crack using pockets and face holds that move upwards and right to finish with a thin crack and the anchors. Also, I did the first free ascent after setting this route up. -John Baldwin. May 1, 2010

This is a nice climb, but if what Matt B says is true, that after you pull the first crux, the line originally finished in the corner at 12d. I think it's quite a bummer someone came and added bolts up the face, we have taken a decent 12d and turned it into a contrived but good 13a (Bo Can has plenty of these climbs already). I have a really hard time forcing myself onto the face when the easiest most obvious line climbs at 12d. Overall, a good climb and pretty steep for Boulder Canyon. Aug 26, 2014

I agree with the comment that not using the right wall at all bumps this grade to 13a, though it is highly contrived not to use it. According to popular folklore the route was previously rated 12d and was forced right into the corner because there was no bolt on the face to go straight up. Now a bolt is added and we have a great but a bit contrived route. Aug 25, 2009

Really good route. Felt more like hard .12d than .13a. Has had draws on it for at least two months. What's the deal? Sep 26, 2008

Great summer route that stays in the shade most of the day. A four-tiered roof followed by a tricky face with a slight run to the chains. A kneepad (right knee) and taping (right hand) is helpful depending on your beta. Aug 2, 2008

This is a great route. The grade probably drops if you cop a rest (even a shoulder scum) from the right corner before you head into the upper-slab crux. Jul 27, 2008

Thug through the roof at the start and cruise to the top, roof protects well with green c3 (under) and red c3 (after). Jul 26, 2014

All, I'm wondering what the variation is called? One can either head up the ramp and do the (easier) hand crack, or continue straight up into the offwidth. Anyone know the story? Goat Aug 29, 2013

This is a worthy route. Big fun and just kinda in your face most of the way. Well worth doing, especailly as a Kor Classic (which I think it is??)! Sep 17, 2012

I doubt that "Bong Session" is the same route as Kor's "Right Side." (See thread under Black Widow Slab.) None of those old guidebooks is very specific about where "Right Side" really went, although I think those support that "Right Side" starts in the same dihedral where Bands of Gold begins. Chris: What is your evidence? Apr 5, 2012

This really is a great crack with a variety of sizes throughout. Save a #4 for the upper crack and don't underestimate the start! Jul 8, 2011

This is a terrific crack climb - maybe one of the best in the canyon. The shift to the right for the top hand crack detracts slightly from the route but otherwise, it's well worth the trip to this wall, not to mention the other nice sport routes to add in. Aug 10, 2007

For decades this route was known as the Right Side. It was first climbed in 1961 by Kor and Northcutt. It was part of the Black Widow trilogy: Left Side, Center and Right Side. It has been documented as such since 1967 in all of Pat Ament's BC guides and Jim Erickson's classic Rocky Heights. It was graded 5.8 in the first High Over Boulder (1967) and stayed there through the second HOB and through 5.10, the Ament Erickson guide. It was upgraded to 5.9 in Rocky Heights (1980). The name change was initiated in the mid - late '90s, apparently to make it consistent with the stoner theme adopted at the crag. It seems kind of a shame to rename one of the first routes in Boulder Canyon. Hopefully the original name will see a resurgence. May 27, 2006

Fun times—plenty of challenge! I woulda been a bit less SMERSHED had I brought doubles of hand-size: #1 and #2 Camalot (Metolius #6 and #7). Watch for licheny footholds up high. Jun 21, 2014

I thought this was a really nice little route. Good variety, and the top looks a little bit intimidating - but it unfolds perfectly. Sep 19, 2012

I'm not sure that this is a full three star route, but it's certainly worth doing. It's very engaging for how short it is. Jul 5, 2009

Old-school 10d (stout). Some hand-jam pain turning the first (bigger) roof. Good gear; good fun; good times. May 18, 2013

I have to agree with Chris on this one. Felt pretty hard for 5.10d. Excellent climbing though.... Sep 3, 2012

This seemed hard for 10d, and in comparison to Grandmother's Challenge in Eldo, it seemed very stiff for the grade. Great climb though, as for yesterday's efforts a very humbling experience for me. Sep 2, 2012

10+ really? Perfect hands to the lip followed by some poor thin hand flares right about the time your feet disappear. Excellent physical climbing. Thanks for the anchors Rich. Jul 23, 2012

This is a really fun trad route. It climbs much better and more difficult (I thought) that it appears it will. Two roofs take you to a still sustained and tricky overhanging dihedral, after which it eases up considerably for the last 30' to the anchors. Well worth pursuing. Sep 13, 2010

Did this route today - anchors are good, and don't detract from the trad character of the pitch. Aug 22, 2010

Hey man, relax. Sounds like you did a good thing. It's nice to hear that you put some thought into it before adding the anchor. Thanks. Sep 1, 2005

I placed a bolted anchor about 80' up this route after talking to the first ascentionist (Dan Hare) and getting his permission and encouragement. I went and climbed this route a month or two ago (before putting in the anchor) and experienced the annoying lichen encrusted, unprotected, 5.4 bushwhack to the grassy ledge. From the grassy ledge you had to either summit the formation (i.e. several more [pitches] of 5.? bushwhacking) or do a scary 50' downclimb to the top of one of the sport climbs on the right side of the formation. The first 80' feet of this climb is fantastic, and the rest sucks! There are three other trad routes on the crag. One has a bolted rappel station at the top and the other two are obscure and dirty and don't look to have been done since Kor and Northcutt did them in '61. I recognize that these anchors are a change to an existing route. I debated putting them in. I don't agree with putting in bolts to avoid a runout that was done by the first ascentionists or more generally changing the nature of a route to eliminate the boldness that used to be required to complete a route. But I believe this is different. Anyone who can climb the 10d to get to the new anchors, could easily finish the route. This is not about avoiding a significant challenge that is an integral part of the route. I actually placed the anchors as high as feasible to force a bit of runout 5.8/5.9 face climbing before the climbing deteriorated to a dirty slab.This is a convenience anchor. It is easy to argue against convenience anchors, as many have (appropriately) in places like Eldo. But I felt that these anchors are in character with the rest of the crag, and, apparently, so did the first ascenionist. It is obvious that I am a little conflicted about this anchor, as evidenced by this lengthy explanation. I don't like the spread of Sport Park ethics into the rest of the Canyon. If there is significant and valid opposition to these anchors I will remove them myself. Aug 29, 2005

Agree with George's comment above, Matt's description does NOT match the scrappy but clean (no moss) corner just left of Smoke Down. Sep 16, 2012

I suspect that Matt's 2011 comment, above, refers to the climb that begins in the 5.8+ dihedral that Bands of Gold uses to start. I think the Bands of Gold dihedral is the start of Kor's "Right Side." (See comments under Black Widow Slab.) The route called "Wired" in this database begins farther right and is a 5.10-ish, right-leaning dihedral protected only by an occasional, funky, shallow, thin placement. Jul 27, 2012

I climbed this route today, and it wasn't much fun. The climbing is very very dirty. We continued 3 pitches to the top of the Black Widow Slab and walked off in between Sleeping Beauty and Black Widow. The climbing is easy on the first pitch, but the gear does suck pretty bad and the moss is plentiful. Barely 1 star, more like 0.5 stars. Jul 24, 2011

It took tons of work to make this climb somewhat safe. Some very funky looking, difficult to obtain gear. 10- climbing, 11 gear. some fun moves. Jul 5, 2008

This isn't Right Side. May 27, 2006

Broke the intermediate crimp on this one about a month ago... probably harder now. Dec 19, 2010

You sit down start, two hands in large right undercling, and then go up. Oct 8, 2004

Start matched in the undercling. Plenty of room for two hands. Oct 6, 2004

Seriously, what is the right hand starting hold? Oct 6, 2004

Uhhh...let's see. I was a little drunk, details are fuzzy. I think it was left hand, thumb down pinch with two fingers, pinky smear,ring finger half slotted into a divot. Right hand thumb up fore finger and pinky squeezed together in a "hang loose " sort of position. Both feet swing over your head, right foot heel hooks a juju bee shaped nubbin, left foot smears big toe under a razor sharp undercling. Now comes the crux.........flip your nutsack under your left armpit, reach around under your spotter's left knee, and snatch the uber-thin flake out left on the lip and flop up onto the top in utter triumph. You've done it, now you're good enough. Now you can stop this madness. Oct 5, 2004

What is the right hand starting hold for this problem? I know you start with the left hand undercling, but what about the right hand? Oct 5, 2004

Finally sent. Definitely much harder than the other arete. A lot of fun. Sep 26, 2004

For me this still a work in progress. I have to mention that this problem has one of the worst footholds on the planet and makes the Undercling Traverse at Flag look like a boardwalk. One of these days... Sep 20, 2004

Why does the new BoCan climbing guide have this as V2/3? I think V1 would be fair.... Nov 11, 2017

V8 mi culo. Felt like a V10 to me Mar 21, 2007

FA was not done by DG and the problem is closer to V8 than V10 (sorry). Dec 29, 2005

Went for this one and backed off after the 5.7 cracks. Seems like if you blow it coming off the ledge into the 5.9 climbing you could hit the deck. Oct 26, 2007

I can't justify giving this an R. I only offer PG-13 in acknowledgement of the SUBJECTIVE possibility of runouts for those carrying a light rack. At the crux, I had 5 placements (yeah, that's a game for me) that I thought were "b" or better just before stepping left under the roof. Up higher I realized that I could get what was likely a yellow Alien or green Camalot (or maybe also a few red Aliens) every 6 feet or so. Seriously, I saw 6 yellow Alien placements and 4 green Camalot placements on this route, but I only had 2 each.... Sep 17, 2016

A black Alien and #5 HB offset at your feet protect the crux section pretty well, above that a nut can be slotted in a groove above you that would probably hold a top rope fall. A few feet more and you get a bomber green/yellow hybrid Alien. Overall, a pretty reasonable lead with offset nuts and cams, get on it! Apr 2, 2014

I top roped this, but the pro looks reasonable. With small cams, I don't think it would be too risky to lead. It would have been risky on the first ascent without cams, unless pitons were used. Jun 7, 2013

Solid climb. The crux for me came around/just past the 4th bolt. Make sure to dance around the two loose blocks marked with Xs near the top. Apr 10, 2016

There's a loose couple of rocks in a crack near the top, but it's obvious what they are and you don't have to go anywhere near them. The climb is fun, takes a little bit of thought, and a good intro to 5.9 for anyone looking. Nov 2, 2013

Pretty fun route, definitely harder to decipher than its neighbors to the left and right! Was disappointed though to find a bolt near the top within a few inches of a fine looking crack.... Is this kind of convenience bolting really worth it? Gear for the crack is easy to place and bomber. Apr 24, 2013

Fun route, and it makes the short hike up a little more worth it when climbed with Edges and Ledges. As mentioned before, there are a few loose rocks on this one, the loose rock near the last bolt appears to still be there and is currently marked. There are some loose rocks to the right as you move up towards the anchors as well, but they are pretty easy to avoid. I did have a hold blow on me though right at the first bolt. It wasn't really on route per se, but I imagine I'm not the only person that has done this. When I was directly below the first bolt, and before stepping up onto the actual wall, I had my hand under the ledge down/right (should have known better, it felt a little questionable). When I leaned back a bit to re-position myself, the hold blew completely and VERY nearly sent me tumbling back down to the belay, which is at least 20 feet. Just be aware, and don't do what I did. The distance from there to the ground is enough to wreck your day. Apr 22, 2013

Fun route, but beware the loose rock to the right as you climb over the last overhang to the anchors (to the right of the last bolt). Also a large loose block right below the last bolt. Oct 28, 2011

Really fun route, esp. if you finish out left on the face. Perhaps a couple of bolts too many (great gear placements out right), but all in all, a nice route. Jun 13, 2009

Found the crux to be moving back left and up from the big ledge. Other than that it is mostly 5.fun. Nov 3, 2007

Another Great route by the bolters over here! The crux is definitely right at the first boulder jutting out. I think it's after the third bolt... can't remember. But have fun and be safe! Mar 9, 2007

The D'Antonio book shows this going to its own anchor... but as Jay points out, that is not the case. The route is good until the top. If you go up to where the anchor is drawn in the D'Antonio guide, the climbing is dirty, loose, and insecure. Also, I think it was above the last bolt 18" that there is a chopper-sharp flake. You can get 1/2-3/4" pro above it to avoid a cut rope in a fall, so that might be worth doing. May 7, 2017

This is a fun route. We did not use a #3 Camalot in the spot in Leo Paik's picture. We used smaller cams just above and a #3 as the last piece, much higher. The crux is certainly at the spot listed in the picture. This route shares an anchor with Family Guy and Same as it Ever Was and does not have its own anchor as shown in the D'Antonio guide. Apr 10, 2014

Best route at Boulder Slips. Apr 8, 2012

We thought about calling this area the Senior Wall or more aptly the Heat Stroke Wall. It can really get hot here, so plan wisely. The climb was named to reflect my entry in the Colorado Senior Open (golf) at the end of this month. In a few years, I will be able to play in the "super senior" division (60+). Aug 9, 2007

One of the very best 5.8s in the canyon. Agree that it looks a lot harder than it is. Apr 10, 2016

This is a fun route which looks like it will be harder than it really is. It does have big edges and ledges. Feb 12, 2014

Most of the loose boulders earlier commenters mention appear to be gone. The approach gully definitely has a couple of blocks that I'd rather not trust, but you don't have to go anywhere near them, and if you do touch them, they're not precariously balanced. The climb itself is pretty clean and definitely a good intro for a new 5.8 leader. Nov 2, 2013

This is a fun climb and one of the best 5.8 climbs I have come across in BC. I was just there yesterday, and the poison ivy is just starting to leaf out. So it would probably be safe for a bit longer, but you could see that once its in full bloom it would be EVERYWHERE in the immediate area. In reference to the comment above, I'm not sure why you would belay from the first bolt, that seems needless since there is an obvious belay spot at the bottom of the route. This can safely be done with a 60m rope as well. Apr 22, 2013

Not bad, not great. Very convenient to climb and go, look out for the poison ivy warnings - the little plants with berries are growing up (April 2012). :) The gully is pretty clear of rolling rocks, it's mainly the approach that will send the rocks downwards. The obvious belay position below the first bolt has minimal places to stand and you'd have to attach yourself to the bolt to ensure that you won't go for a tumble. You could belay from the bottom of the gully way far from the face I guess - we were able to rap down from the anchor to the bottom of the gully on a single 60m rope. Apr 13, 2012

This is a great fall climb, as well as the 5.9 to the left. Stays free of snow for the most part and gets good sun. Oct 28, 2011

For a moderate route, it doesn't get much better than this! The spacing between bolts will be comforting for a leader new to the grade and the anchor set-up is really convenient for quick on-and-off. Like Gary said, I suspect this route is going to be quite popular. One of your better efforts, Ron, et al! Jun 13, 2009

This is a great fun route! Positive holds and nice bolt placements make for a nice lead. Some of the really loose rock in the gully to the left came down on us today, although not quite down to the road and it cleared out the gully a bit, but it's still pretty bad, so a great idea to avoid it, as previously mentioned. Since the area is still relatively new, there was some loose rock falling as we were climbing - just be aware. Apr 29, 2009

When you're climbing or descending from this route, stay out of the loose gully on the left, and stay on the slab to the right. There are a number of loose rocks in and left of the gully that are too big to trundle, since they might go all the way to the road. Please do your best to avoid them. Apr 12, 2009

The approach is very loose directly at the base of this route. My partner knocked a few VERY large rocks down almost all the way to the road when he alighted upon terra not so firma after sending this glorious route. Be careful. Apr 11, 2009

Excellent route at the grade. Steep jug-hauling all the way to the anchors. The crux is getting to the base of the route without touching the Poison Ivy. It's everywhere. Sep 26, 2007

This is a great route! incredible bolting! Kudos to the FA. Have fun! Mar 9, 2007

In my opinion, this route is going to be very popular and deservedly so. It is very nicely and safely bolted for the newer 5.8 leader, easy approach, and great climbing! Nice and steep for a moderate with fun moves along the way. Nov 13, 2006

The cord on the second bolt is gone. May 8, 2016

The only cam we used on this was a #3 Camalot above the last protection bolt. Other cams did not seem necessary. The second bolt is a bit high for an easy clip. A piece of cord was attached so you could clip sooner, but the cord won't last forever. Apr 10, 2014

So... where is "Quagmire?" I tried pretty much everything on that wall. Seems to me that the only thing available for the 5.9 designation is this or at least in part this line. I do note that D'Antonio fails to differentiate or place either of these routes, but for to say that this one is 10c (actually about 10b though) and Quagmire is 5.9+, which as we know is harder than 10a... which means about 10b again...and there is good gear for most of this route, absent any bolts. May 6, 2017

A Metolius No. 7 (BD No. 2 Camalot) was nice for the upper crack. I climbed level with the anchors to a no-hands at the top of the wall, downclimbed back to the cam, pulled it, and lowered off a biner that's been left on bolt 5. This saves your rope over the lip and the headache of getting out right to the anchor. Cool climb! Painful while working the beta (maybe tape your pinkies) but then not so painful when you figure out the sequences. Airy but safe. Enjoy! Oct 14, 2012

Was this actually lead only on pre-placed gear or was it lead placing the gear? I ask because in the photo of Bob H with the caption stating the FFA, he clearly has a bit of gear on his harness, which is pressumably there to be placed higher on the route. Mar 14, 2009

Take a double-length runner, and clip the bolt to the left of the start of the crack--nice first anti-zipper piece. I used a #4 BD near the top of the hand crack but probably not necessary. May 2, 2017

Awesome route. Doubles in BD #1, 2, and 3 were nice. Apr 5, 2016

This is a wonderful climb that's worth your time. A few of the early placements required some thought to get right, but there are some beautiful placements further up. I think this crack and the sport/mixed near it make this cliff a worthy day destination. Truly some surprisingly good climbs for such a small area. Jan 25, 2015

This is a great climb! Too bad the crack is so short. Feb 12, 2014

If you want to learn to climb hand crack at a moderate level, climb this route. You can lace it up and make harder if you want by avoiding any holds outside the crack. Wish it was longer. Nov 30, 2013

Bad beta on the number one in that crack as I saw one welded there a few months ago. If only I had more time, it would have been mine, but I had to meet a dudette in Eldo, so I had to stop fiddling. Jan 21, 2011

3-star handcrack on a 1-star crag. Worth doing if you're there anyway, but don't go to the 'Slips just for this climb. Oct 19, 2009

A nice climb, I very much enjoyed it, and I am still a beginner trad leader. Gear places well, and the route takes nuts nicely in addition to all the cams mentioned before. Be careful if you use the gully up to the left for the approach as the rock is pretty loose in there. Apr 29, 2009

I climbed the route again on 3/1/08. I found some small loose rocks near the start of the crack, which I plan to trundle when the crag is less crowded. There is a big flake near the top of the route that vibrates when you tap on it, but it appears to be firmly anchored in the surrounding rock. You can get a good #1 Camalot in an overlap to the right, and avoid using the top of the flake as a handhold, without increasing the difficulty of the climb. Mar 2, 2008

I really enjoyed the jamming on this climb but felt very uncomfortable pulling on the block just below the chains. It sounds like there was an even looser one here. Anyway, if you use less optimum holds/jams around it you can minimize the pull force on the block. May 16, 2007

I found that for a crack climb in this grade, it is a classic. The block mentioned by Brenda has been taken down late October 2006, early November 2006. Be aware that this line is at a junction between two rock walls. It is no surprise that there is some freeze/thaw stuff on this route. May 6, 2007

Awesome climbing that would be solid 4 stars if it was longer and didn't have the chossy start to get to the crack. The loose rock others mentioned is either gone or trivial to avoid. Easy pro and really fun moves the whole way up. May 6, 2007

Watch out for the loose block, about 2'H x 1'W, that's a few feet below the anchor. If you pull on it, it moves. Fun climb in the middle section. Nov 25, 2006

A very nice climb, takes great gear and great practice for leading cracks. A bit sustained in places, it is no gimme. A climb well worth doing. You may wish to consider doubling up on #1 and #2 Camalots to really feel good. Nov 13, 2006

4 star handcrack in BC gets one's attention...okay climb, best bit is about 20' in the middle (a bit funky to get into this bit). From a clucker: a set of cams to #3.5 Camalot (or #4 Friend), #9 hex, & wires worked. Funky block(s) just below the anchor makes you think 'ard about pullin' on it. Not quite as good as North Face Center, Cob Rock. Oct 30, 2006

The route is fun, but the crux section is very short, only a few moves. There is a bolt anchor to the right of this climb on Pumpkin Corner. Feb 12, 2014

Climbed this route today, and the two bolts in question have been removed. I was not surprised by the removal but was saddened to see the hanger-less, half bent bolts still in their holes with visibly damaged rock. Hopefully whoever removed them will go back to clean up their work. I'm no expert, but it sure looked like a hack job. FYI...my partner found good gear nearby, and the anchor bolts were thankfully left in place. May 14, 2017

P.S. Boulder Slips is NOT dangerous if you take extra yellow Aliens and 1.5-2" (or green Camalot) cams It's absuurd to say it, and maybe it is 'independent' of the original line of Boulder Slips and Jim did that, however.... Given that Boulder Slips can climb the left or right options up top via cracks on lead from the ground (and having done both), it is crystal clear that this route indeed added bolts to the reach-zone of Boulder Slips, and so they are retro-bolts, insofar as I am concerned. Sep 17, 2016

Well, I think Bruce kinda said it all with one post before this "debate" he lead the route on gear prior to the placement of the bolts. The route not only can be protected on gear, it was, by the FA party. Bruce was clear with me that he didn't approve of the bolts and disclaimed them right here in writing. So, why were people even having this discussion? When did bolting cracks after the FA (on gear) become OK? May 14, 2012

Sandbag at 5.9., at least by BC standards. Good, engaging route. Apr 8, 2012

I climbed My Way this afternoon with Adam Massey. We both enjoyed this fine addition. I have climbed Boulder Slips, which is dangerous, and this is clearly an independent line. I have not done Threshold, but that one also appears to me to take its own line left of My Way. While Crusher and Andy have a practiced eye for this type of impact, in my view My Way is a well-protected mixed route and should remain as a popular choice for those of us too scared to send Boulder Slips or too weak to lead Threshold. Sep 17, 2007

Andy, The lead bolts on My Way do not impact the Boulder Slips route. The climbing line on Boulder Slips is well to the right of the bolts on My Way. People climbing Boulder Slips have the option of angling left to the anchor on My Way; that is the only impact. Jul 13, 2007

I did Threshold with Crusher a couple of nights ago and ended up following the bolts. Looked at the guidebook later and it seems from Boulder Climbs North (Rossiter) that Threshold finishes left of the upper prow and Boulder Slips (FA solo by Erikson) takes the cracks on the right. In this case My Way is independent BUT having the bolts there still changes the character of both of the previous routes by affecting the runouts required on each. In my opinion having a mental challenge on a route is a good thing, so adding bolts detracts from the older routes, infact it's just plain naughty. Jul 13, 2007

Hi Ron, thanks for your thoughtful response. Well, from my perspective I'd say yeah, pull the bolts. And if you did I'd add a very big thank you for having the flexibility to be willing to remove your bolts. I would suggest leaving the anchor at the top, as a tree-saving measure (or maybe just laziness...) but that would be your call. But from a climber-community perspective, perhaps we should try to solicit some opinion from any other folks who have done the routes in this area. Anyone else? I think I need to go back and do one or two of the other routes nearby to get a better feel for exactly what goes where. Jul 13, 2007

Crusher, it sounds as if the Ament and Rossiter descriptions of The Threshold are different in some critical respects. We based our choice of line on My Way using Rossiter's guidebook. We wanted to find an independent line between The Threshold and Boulder Slips, and thought we had found one. But your climb, and Ament's description, make it sound as if The Threshold can take a line similar to My Way in the upper part. However, there is a climbable line left of My Way and right of The Throttle that matches Rossiter's description of The Threshold, staying left of the prow. That is what I climbed when I did Threshold Variation. I think the problem is that it is possible to climb several lines from the stance at the base of the prow, and later move from one line to another without difficulty. It's even possible to get over to Boulder Slips and climb the upper part of that line from the start of the prow. It was not our intention to impact The Threshold when we installed the bolts on My Way. But certainly, the way you climbed The Threshold merged with My Way in the upper section. I can remove the bolts and anchor we installed for My Way, and erase the route. However, I think that will doom The Threshold and Boulder Slips to the obscurity they have enjoyed for many years, with a tedious walkoff (or double-rope rappel from trees) instead of the easy descent from the bolt anchor. Let me know what you think I should do. Jul 13, 2007

Ron, I don't recall much from when I first did Threshold 20 years ago, but I'm sure I would have headed pretty much straight up after the crux. Did Threshold yesterday. Anything else but straight up would be pretty contrived. I added Threshold to the database. Perhaps others could add some opinions. The route has never been popular, but that's a shame, as it is a great pitch. The new rap anchor on top might help its popularity. There is a tad more detail about Threshold in Ament's High Over Boulder: "After the hand crack, work up the prow and finish up and left with a thin crack." Ament also specifically states that it is only the hand crack that is left of the prow itself, and that only slightly. Maybe we were off-route? I'm not sure where else it could go. It would make little sense to suddenly traverse ten feet left. Jul 12, 2007

Crusher, I toproped the upper part of Threshold; see Threshold Variation. The line I climbed on that route is left of My Way. See Threshold Variation. Climb to the top of the pillar from the left. Start up the right side of the arete, then step left and climb face and cracks about 10' left of My Way. . In Rossiter's Boulder Canyon guidebook, the description for Threshold says "jam discontinuous handcracks just left of the arete." My Way climbs cracks on the right side of the arete, and makes a move or two on the arete itself. It may be possible to clip the second bolt of My Way from Threshold, but the climbing lines are distinct. I can relocate the second bolt on My Way farther to the right so it would not be possible to clip from Threshold, if that would make you happy. Jul 12, 2007

Ron, it's nice to have the rap anchor at the top, but the upper three protection bolts are a blatant retrobolting of the upper section of the excellent route Threshold. Jul 12, 2007

Good climb. I needed to do a blind placement (0.5 cam) in a crack to the left (10-12' above the pedestal above the slot) before stepping left into the crack. BTW, this climb looks like it covers similar terrain as "The Threshold". From the topo in Rossiter, it starts down and left of your route but then seems to be pretty much the same. I can only assume it must climb left of My Way since it is rated 11b (although only a section of 10 is shown on the topo). Oct 13, 2006

The original route, led by both Ron and me, had two bolt placements. Ron later added two more bolts and chose the name of the route. Bruce Oct 10, 2006

The crack on top needs a #3-#4 to protect... and may be the crux. 3 days ago

This one could be anything from 5.7-ish to 5.10a depending on how you go. Going straight up from the last bolt would be harder. Staying left all the time is easier. Careful pulling the rope--there are flakes that could easily catch the rope (as we found out). May 2, 2017

The rock seemed solid today so most of the loose rock must be gone. This is a good route (not so good with snow in the crack near the anchor). Feb 12, 2014

I'd second Nick Wlder's comments about the 5.9 move after the last bolt but would say the offwidth boulder at the problem has a move also worth the grade if you stay inside the offwidth itself. There is a loose block about parallel with the first bolt: as you clip in to the second bolt, it looks like a natural foothold but moves a little. There is a hollow flake after the last bolt that felt like it'll definitely come away some day but not today. Sounds like Sarah Meiser's climbing partner may have taken the worst of it off, but it's still fragile. There's also a loose block on the right hand side as you are leaving the first finger crack: you'll see it. Fortunately, it's not even near where you need to be, but I touched it while investigating and it was very loose. Having said the above, this is one of the best climbs in Boulder Canyon. If the area gets a little clearer of loose rock, the climb itself is exciting. If you're a beginner trad leader, having five bolts immediately beneath you lends a certain sense of reassurance. Just be careful to judge rock condition! Nov 2, 2013

I usually have no problem with a little choss, but in its current state, this climb is dangerous and not worth doing. A hold near the top busted while my partner was on it and sent a bunch of rock down on the belay. I climbed it afterwards and noted there were several more large, loose chunks of rock waiting to go. Apr 16, 2012

Fun climb. Started up it thinking it was a sport climb and had to lower the rope to get gear for the top. It's weird as a mixed climb. None of the bolts are really necessary as there is adequate gear the whole way up. Should either be all bolts or no bolts (IMO). Mar 21, 2009

On 11/5/07, I cleared a bunch of loose rocks from the ledge near the top of the route. I climbed the route on 3/1/08, and didn't find any major loose rock hazards. It should be OK to belay more in line with the route. Mar 2, 2008

Recommend belaying to the far left (as you would for Edges and Ledges). A bowling ball size rock came loose from the upper ledge and landed on the belay ledge directly in line with the route. Luckily we were too lazy to move our belay from where we started. Fun route otherwise! Edit: If you do belay on the left, move right when pulling your rope to avoid snagging it on a stubborn feature to the right of the first bolt. Oct 28, 2007

Really just one 5.9 move - from the last bolt your move from the easy wide crack to the face, which is a bit delicate. A single 5.8 move at the top wide crack (just below the anchor) is also interesting (blue #3 Camalot - don't bother with the #4). Otherwise easy and unremarkable climbing. May 6, 2007

Another nice route with some interesting moves. Crux comes nearer the top when you have to step right back onto the face. Nov 13, 2006

Pretty tough bouldering problem to start. Did it without any extra gear and ran it out about 30' to 3rd bolt. Easy climbing after that second bolt -- 5.8 or so. May 17, 2014

I placed two pieces before the first bolt. The first was a #1 Friend and the second was a 0.5 Camalot. The first piece occupies a hand hold but inspires confidence. Jun 7, 2013

A tough start to more moderate climbing. Place a good red Alien at the start and clip in short; the hardest moves are before the first bolt (pumpy and tricky laybacking.) The cracks in the middle of the pitch need more cleaning; bring a wire brush. Fun slab moves at the top. Oct 25, 2006

Crimpy moves out right to a jug. Beyond that, not as hard, but maybe not something to try to warm up on. May 6, 2017

The crux on this is certainly at about the first bolt. The bolt will be hard to clip if you are short, and if you fall doing the crux, it seems like the bolt is barely high enough to keep you from hitting the rock below. Apr 10, 2014

Climb carefully past the loose block near the 3rd bolt. We will remove it when the heat stroke index drops and we have more people because of the nearness to the road. It is easy to avoid, just be aware. Aug 9, 2007

No better or worse than 'Useless One' to the right. They can indeed be done as completely different and isolated routes but are more naturally blended with a few shared moves. Sep 17, 2016

Some cool moves on this route. You definitely have to use both sides of the arete. If it were a little longer, I'd probably give it another star. Apr 10, 2016

Last week an Io Moth Caterpillar fell on my partner and wow, what a sting! =Then it fell 30' and hit me, and I immediately understood what hurt her. Io Moth Caterpillar. Every spine is a wasp sting like experience! Sep 26, 2015

Fun little route. The approach may be a bit daunting for some. Hint: Remember to use the "sunny side" of the arete as well. Mar 1, 2008

Actually, the upper part of this route is best done 6' left of 'My Way' stepping out end left into a series of other crack systems after the crux deposits you briefly upon the arete. There is reasonable gear and the upper section is never harder than 5.10- and perhaps not even that hard. May 6, 2017

Step up from flake on sidepulls into the bowl is a harder than average 11 and insecure at least maybe 11c/d? However, you can get a cordalette tripled over and tied off behind the "spike" I mention triple and tied off so as to be sure that if you sever a strand or two, that you don't end up on the ledge. I'd say use Kevlar, not nylon. There a yellow or green Alien at the start, which is probably 5.10, then the cord, then a few more Alien options and Camalot options here or there on the 5.10 climbing, which is continuous and insecure, then there is a a green Alien placement at the upper crux which might be 5.10+, so save one for that. So there is some gear opportunity, but it is infrequent. Yeah, the route is 'R.' May 6, 2017

The route has cleaned up well enough, I guess. The initial placement is pretty high if you eschew the bolts down low for a trad route.... Then lots of gear but slightly flaky rock in a few spots. Not unsafe by any means. Sep 17, 2016

A few really fun moves but mostly choss climbing to get to the route, worth doing if you're in the area. Oct 2, 2014

A single placement between 0.75" and 2" will be had between the last and second to last bolt if you feel that you want/need that. The climbing there is easier and, unless you are short, not very committing. If you take any given cam in that range, you ought to be able to find a placement for it. If you take the whole range, you could pack them all in there. Sep 17, 2016

I placed a #2 Friend and a 0.75 Camalot. I think you would be ok with just the Camalot at the roof. The bolt is not far above, and the moves from the bolt before the roof are not hard. Jun 7, 2013

Fun route; really fun moves (5.8/5.9) up the slab, and maybe 5.10a at the roof. We placed an 1.5-inch (orange) Alien and a yellow 0.75-inch Alien. Jul 12, 2007

This is a super easy / fun lead. You can place pro every 4 feet if you've got it. Save a couple pieces for the top though. You'll get to a ledge and want to walk to the left about 15 feet to the anchors of Mons. I placed a #3 right below the short face climb to the anchors. Make sure you're communicating with anyone who may be getting on Mons so there's not a cluster at the top. May 23, 2016

The biggest piece I used on this was a #4 Camalot. There are places for lots of smaller gear. I used a #3 at the top but nothing bigger than a #1 lower on the pitch. Apr 2, 2014

I wonder if this route would benefit by adding a bolt or 2 in now blank sections where all the rock was trundled off. The route is not the same as it was before. The pro is very limited until you get higher, and you may have a groundfall depending on your placement. It would still be a good beginner lead and toprope, since there is still a set of anchors above it. Approval by R. Rossiter would be needed of course. Just a thought. Mar 21, 2017

I climbed the route a few days ago not knowing anything about its recent history. Climbing was never more than 5.4. However, there is now very little protection for the first 30' or so (small stoppers). When I got near the middle, I saw a lot of fresh dirt and realized there had been recent rockfall. I tested a flake on the left, and it vibrated when tapped, so I avoided it. I climbed to the right and then stepped left to look at the crack there and a very gentle left foot placement sent a large rockfall down--maybe a couple of hundred pounds. Fortunately, my belayer was well to the L of the line as I climbed it. After that the protection was OK, a couple of large cams. I set a natural anchor at the top slinging a boulder. Conclusion: this is a dangerous route with unstable rock features and difficult to protect for the first 30 feet. rob.calm Nov 10, 2016

Just climbed it this morning as my first trad lead. Obviously the pine tree in the mid part is now gone. Instead there is dirt and a loose plate left -- don't pull it. The anchor is tall yet still reachable for 5'8". Or you might want to climb a little higher from the right side to set the rappel. Small cams are preferred. Aug 16, 2016

Unfortunately this is no longer as good a pitch for beginner trad leaders as it was before the rock scaling. The removal of that column of rock has left a few suspect holds, and the tree snapped off during the operation. It was once 'G' rated but now is probably 'PG-13' for a novice (good gear not as obvious or plentiful.) Jun 30, 2016

Most of the TR anchors on this cliff are out of my reach: 5'4". My husband, who's 5'10" with a positive ape index, can just reach some of them. Nothing to be done about it, but consider yourself forewarned if you're vertically impaired. Apr 12, 2015

Eds. CDOT removed any potentially dangerous boulders, good to climb Just climbed this today, and the massive loose block is extremely unstable. It needs addressed, I would say, immediately as it's only a matter of time till it's pulled off to the dismay of anyone in the belay area, anyone driving in the road, and potentially anyone parked in the parking lot across the road. I would say to not climb this route, unless you're prepared to make sure to not touch the block. I just posted a forum asking for help in the hopes to remove the block safely, respond to the post so we can do something about this dangerous situation. Eds. CDOT removed any potentially dangerous boulders, it's good to climb/ Apr 12, 2015

That loose rock noted by burnindaylight above is extremely loose. I wasn't aware of it before and tilted it out about 6" yesterday. I managed to shove it back in a panic. It's about 3' x 1' x 1', second-ish stone from the top of that rectangular pillar that forms the right-facing dihedral left of the tree. Burnindaylight is right, if pulled, this could definitely hit the belay and probably go all the way to the road. Apr 10, 2015

In reference to the above comments about the height of the anchor, I am 5'8" and was able to reach up and clip them. You are on a big ledge, so the possible high piece of pro mentioned above does not seem necessary. See the picture taken from below the anchor. Feb 14, 2014

FYI, there is a large loose boulder on the pillar about 2/3rds of the way up the route. It moved a couple of inches when I pulled on it. This would fall right onto the belay ledge and probably continue to the road. See the attached picture. I chalked it when I was there on 6/3. Loose rock! Jun 5, 2012

Just a note, the anchors are bit high on this climb. I'm about 5.9' and I was reaching to thread the rope. Aug 4, 2009

After you've got the rope hanging from the anchors, take a lap and climb the face out to the left of the normal dihedral, adds a new twist to the route. The face moves probably go at 5.5 or 5.6. May 20, 2008

*A note of caution to any who desire to TR this route: The LEFT bolt-hanger is attached by a very loose nut as of July 20th 2007. It seems to slowly uscrew itself during use. This is also the case with the route to the left, Jam It Jul 21, 2007

Bolt anchors recently added by Rossiter are nearly out of reach for short people. Being one of those short people, I found the crux of the route was trying to stretch to get slings onto the rings. Placing a microcam in small pocket left of the bolts for a safety helps make it a little more secure, so I didn't peel of the ledge trying to clip the left ring. Jun 14, 2007

There is a fixed cam (NOT coming out) about 1/2 way up in the dihedral crack on your left. Sep 25, 2006

This was my first trad lead... it takes perfect pro - but I did a terrible job with rope drag... for other beginner leaders make sure you extend your slings and take care to keep your rope out of various cracks 'cuz I am just glad the climb ended when it did or i couldn't have gone further if I wanted to Jul 30, 2003

Good little climb. A little cold to climb in February. Not the easiest to protect for the beginner 5.6 leader. Anchors at the top look great. Feb 21, 2016

Surprisingly fun climb for the grade. My son's 1st trad lead, 2nd lead ever. He sewed it up with a couple small Camalots and several nuts. Nice easy climb with almost vertical headwall at top. 5.6 on the upper half, easier lower down. Nov 9, 2014

Good protection, I used all cams, but partly bc my partner doesn't like removing nuts. Even though I placed a #3, you could easily do the route with nothing larger than a #1 or 2. A single rack is totally adequate. Bring shoulder length runners though, and watch your rope line as it passes over the blocks. Jul 9, 2014

Awesome! Take the rock quality and all those cool chickenheads from The Dome and tilt it towards vertical, that is this climb. Slabby start to steep and juggy towards the anchors. Good pro throughout, lead it! Jun 3, 2013

Fun route. Protection can be a little non-obvious and I ended up using a number of horizontal small-cam and tricam placements. Probably would have held, but I wouldn't have wanted to try them. Anchors in good condition. Oct 1, 2009

Good line - Protection not always obvious, used a #1 BD out to the right with a 4' runner to protect the final moves to hangers. May 21, 2009

One of the bolts at the top of Idle Hands is missing its hanger and rap ring - as of July 2, 2007. Jul 3, 2007

Richard Rossiter placed four bolt anchors at the Boulderado in March 2007 at the request of The Spot gym. See my comment and New toprope anchors on the Boulderado, at the top of Jam It, Ho Hum, Idle Hands, and Mons. Red dots show access to anchors. Be very careful if you are at the top of this cliff and are not anchored in. Please toprope through your own gear, and not directly through the anchor rings. Photo by Richard Rossiter. . Richard has the first known ascents of these routes on the Boulderado; see Richard's comment. May 28, 2007

You do not need the long runner anymore. There are great bolted anchors at the top. Lead it, don't TR. It's more fun. May 28, 2007

Very fun route! Leave all the mid- and large-sized gear behind, though. I led this with a half-set of wallnuts, smaller aliens, and one #1 camalot. And that was sewing it up. Nov 20, 2003

A nice obvious line on solid rock. A nice practice route for the beginner leader, though I found it a little tricky to protect up at the final more vertical crux, but a couple of small nuts seemed to do the trick. And yes, rope drag can be a bit of an issue. Oct 13, 2003

I think this would be a good lead for a beginner or for someone looking to build back confidence with trad (me in both cases!). Be sure that your belayer is anchored - we used a sling around a big boulder at the base - since any falls before the first piece about 10 feet up would send you and your partner to the highway. It's very consistent climbing, with no real crux except for the top, which we went to the right of making for an easier finish (the same as for Mons, the crack to the right). Sep 13, 2003

The Boulderado is a good crag for working on easy leads. The line left of Idle Hands, marked 2 on the above picture is called Ho Hum, 5.4 in the guidebook. I didn't figure it was worth a separate write up, but it's as good as Idle Hands and the short diheadral above and left of the tree offers an opportunity to practice jams. Jun 25, 2002

This is a great first route for beginners. A little bit of face at the bottom, a lot of crack work.It can be topped, but need some long slings, a 60m rope, and a willingness to lay into the belay a little since the friction on the rope is pretty strong. Jul 5, 2001

Be careful if you stray a bit right below the roof. There is a large, loose flake marked with a chalk "x" that could come down with a good tug. Mar 3, 2016

This route has a two-bolt anchor basically dedicated for it. Easy to top-rope, perhaps with a directional above the crux (C4 0.4-0.5). Good beginner lead if the leader knows a little about hand jamming. The crux can be well protected with a #1 low and a #2 placed high for a limited fall if the belayer keeps you tight. Jul 12, 2014

This is a really easy route except a few moves at the roof in the middle. I think it is worth doing if you are in the area. Apr 2, 2014

More of a scramble with 1 or 2 5.7 moves in the middle, but I still found it really fun! Would be a great route for the beginning trad leader, you can have 3 bomber pieces at your waist when pulling the crux. Singles from green Alien to #2 c4 will sew it up. May 31, 2013

Careful setting up a TR on most of the routes around here, as it gets pretty sketchy out on some of the ledges. There's a monster tree up top that I suggest anchoring yourself to, or your partner can belay you to the anchors. Aug 12, 2011

The crux protects well with a C4 #2. Mar 15, 2010

This was the worst route I have ever been on. It's like climbing a ladder to one easy move and back onto ladder. A total waste of time. Jun 23, 2008

All the anchors for the routes at Boulderado have been fixed. Since this area is so heavily used, we checked all the anchors that we put in and fastened them all with Locktight. This repair took place 8/6/2007. Pebby Johns Aug 8, 2007

*A note of caution to any who desire to TR this route: the (climber's) LEFT bolt-hanger is attached by a very loose nut, i.e. it comes unscrewed slowly with use. [as of July 20th 2007]. This is also the case with the route to the right, Ho Hum And, as was posted in the general forum, one of the new bolt-hangers from Idle Hands is still missing. Jul 21, 2007

As has been mentioned before, it's a one-move wonder. But that one move was trickier than I had expected. The crack wasn't great for jamming (at least for someone with large hands like mine) being a bit flaring, smooth and at entirely the wrong angle. Laybacks are possible but pumpy. A better (cheating?) option is to reach up and about 2' right of the top of the crack to the jugs and just mantle it. Nice climb, but far from the best at the rock. Oct 20, 2003

If you want to experience the 5.8(+) part, don't use ANYTHING but the crack to pass the roof. I led it the other day, then TR-ed it so I could try the crack alone. Made me fall. I was humbled. Second attempt no problem, but at least those looking for a harder lead can give that a shot. Sep 29, 2003

This is the most convenient way to the Ho Hum anchors if you're stting up a TR for beginners. It's not that fun, but there's no rope drag. May 11, 2013

Do this route. Super fun for the grade. (Pink point beta: hang draws on the 12 via the 5.9 anchors.) The crux isn't off the start...or boulder. It's keeping the pump low till the top. One good rest below the last bolt. Sep 7, 2016

Fun little route that packs a punch for how short it is. Definitely stick clip the first as the crux moves are stepping off the boulder and into the opening sequence. Pretty powerful climbing in a small package. This route would clean up nicely with more ascents, but unfortunately the hang kind of sucks with the road 20 feet below you.... May 9, 2013

This route was worth doing but only 1 star. I liked the one move wonder and a good place to bring a new climber. Aug 12, 2017

Very fun route with lots of variety on either side of the crack. However, be cautious of a sketchy rock, on right side of crack, past the crux, just below the big sloping ledge toward the top (see red circle on photo). The 3x1x1 ft block is not teetering but vibrates when you whack it. Placing protection behind or below it could jar it loose if you fell on it. Might also want to avoid the obvious handhold on it. Be aware of sketchy rock, circled in red. Not teetering but not especially strong. Apr 22, 2016

The anchors are in kind of an awkward place for leaders-- requiring 2-3 moves above a slanting ledge after the route feels like it's over. I imagine that they're all the way up there so that the rope doesn't rub too much when toproping, but I wonder if it would be better to put them down where they could be threaded from the ledge. Oct 19, 2014

The crux on this is really only one move. It is protected by a #1 Camalot and then a #0.75 Camalot slightly higher. If you know how to crack climb, it is over quickly. Mar 4, 2014

Be careful of loose rock on the ledge just below the anchor. There are a couple football sized rocks that if knocked down, would make for a bad day to any motorist driving by. Also, when rapping, watch where your rope lands. My partner knocked loose a small-ish rock while rapping that nearly hit an onlooker taking photos from the road. Apr 7, 2008

This is a fun route on really good quality rock. It helps build confidence leading, and the crux, a small bulge half way up, is very well protected with a #6 hex (#0.75 Camalot maybe) and is also on good hand holds. Idle Hands is about the same difficulty as Mons, but without any crux really. Be sure that the belayer is anchored if you are leading this climb to prevent any falls to the highway. Sep 14, 2003

Too short by about 30 meters, but a short after-work on the rock is better than a late day at work :) Sep 10, 2003

We had a good time on this one today. Instead of leading from the ground up, I racked up and lead the crappy corner on the left to set up a top rope on this. Uneventful 5.4, but after a cold season in the gym, I wasn't quite ready for the lead. On TR though, the moves were interesting, and I'm glad we made the effort. I'd give it two stars, but I'll hold off on the grade until I can run up it on lead Mar 30, 2014

I tightened the anchor bolts today. Sep 2, 2013

Was on this in August 2013. There are new anchors at the top, though I recall that one of them allowed for a little spinning. Fun route. Well chalked, so it's easy to see. About 5.9 following, 5.9+ lead. Totally worth doing if you're in the area. Sep 2, 2013

A large flake is getting loose at the very beginning of the route. Sep 26, 2009

I really liked this climb it was fast and easy and right off the road, definitely a must in Boulder Canyon. May 2, 2007

Oops! The three original anchor bolts I pulled were 1/4" Rawl compression bolts and not 5/16" as I originally reported. An even better reason to have replaced the anchor! Sep 23, 2005

The three original 5/16" anchor bolts have been removed leaving only the two 3/8" SS bolts and quick links on top. Bruce Sep 23, 2005

Awesome climb! This was one of my first climbs that I did during a climbing class offered from C.U. The only problem is that the Boulderado is quite a bit crowded. If you do not mind the population density in the upper end, then I would definitely recommend this climb. Lots of different lines can be taken and makes an awesome top rope for squeamish significant others to try their own skills on. I prefer to take the crack on the left side up the first third and then traverse over to the right to follow the bolt line up. Any way you take though it is an awesome rock! Mar 28, 2005

Like "Smaller Fish" I started to the left of the bolt line, flagrantly ignoring the route description given above and avoiding any "tiny side-pulls and crimpers from the bottom." I'm hardly a confident 5.9 leader (more of a 5.8 leader) and I get pumped pretty fast, but starting to the left made this climb feel very secure, if rather tough. -Joe Oct 29, 2003

Reasonable, small holds on beautiful rock. I climbed the left dihedral until the second bolt, then traversed right about 10' finishing on the more steeply overhung right edge. Maybe my fingers are just weak, but it felt like solid 9+ territory. An easier route was found by sticking in the left edge for another ten feet then traversing over in the middle of the bulge. If you toprope this one, watch the swing from the left side. It's scary, whipping your rope across the rock (from the admirable, new anchors) and dangling you above the traffic. Exciting to say the least! Oct 20, 2003

In response to the comments about the new anchor.... 3/8" bolts are absolutely fine for belay/rappel anchors. They have a pull-out strength of over 5000 pounds if properly installed and are not subject to the dynamic loading of a protection bolt. We left the original bolts in place because some people still belay from the top of a climb, rather than lowering off, and the existing bolts are fine for that. We did not just pull the existing bolts and re-drill because the bolts were too far back from the edge and would have required 2+ feet of chain on each bolt. Oct 15, 2003

Not to diminish the importance of the fine work you did by placing 2 bolts at the crest of the top, but why not remove the other three when you were there? I can understand not using the old holes as unsightly slings would still be required to reduce rope drag over the edge but why leave the old bolts that have now been rendered obsolete? You set a good example of community service for others to follow. Any takers? Oct 15, 2003

Good work Bruce. Are there now 5 bolts at the anchor? Could you have removed the existing bolts and re-drilled the old holes and placed 1/2" bolts? Either way, thanks for the replacement. Are the RAwl (aka Power) bolts you placed stainless steel or plated, and how long 21/4", 3", or 31/2". Do you think it's necessary to place SS bolts in granite? I've heard different opinions on this issue. THANKS AGAIN. Oct 15, 2003

Dale Haas and I, with approval from the first acent party, fixed up the anchor on top of this route. We left the original three anchor bolts in place and added two 3/8" Rawl 5-piece (Torque) bolts at the crest of the top of the climb. We addedtwo 3/8" quick links to each bolt for rappelling and lowering. This work was supported by the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA).Look them up at safeclimbing.org. They appreciate your support. A couple of notes on the other bolts on the climb. The final protection bolt has, mistakenly, been called a 1/4" bolt. It is in fact a 3/8" wedge anchor. Also, the three bolts that comprise the old anchor are Rawl "Spike" bolts. It appears that they are 5/16" in diameter. Happy climbing! Oct 14, 2003

Hey Joe B., how tall are you anyways? This route goes at a solid 5.9+ in my book. The tiny side-pulls and crimpers from the bottom to the third bolt aren't exactly 5.9 material. Granted, after the third bolt the holds are comparatively huge... Either way, great climb to try out. The bolts are nice and close for the crux (the first is even easily skippable). If leaders are TR-ing this one for friends, leave one or two QDs on the route so the second doesn't swing way south after a fall. They'd have to be lowered all the way down to get back on route generally.~Wm Sep 29, 2003

I climbed this route today and found it to be a top quality route, blemished unfortunately by the sketchy three bolt top anchor. I found the slings currently in use to be too short, putting the rings over the top edge leading to bad rope drag. I'd suggest removing the old top anchors and placing new ones a couple of feet down or using long chains. The final bolt on the route, just below the top anchor is a quarter incher due for replacement as well. Otherwise a real pleasure of a sport route. Sep 23, 2003

It's peculiar that whoever put the bolts on this climb left the dubious anchor at the top. The anchor is scary, and it's a shame for such a nice climb. I would replace the anchors if someone loaned me a drill.....send me an email if interested. It would only take a few minutes and would make the route so much more pleasant. Sep 18, 2003

8/9/03 Nice climb. I would rate it more of a 5.9 than a 5.9+. Aug 9, 2003

A fun, thoughtful little climb. The "anchor" at the top is shite and in dire need of an upgrade (Fred??... Heidi??). It would be considered a bad anchor in the desert!See the gear alert. The anchor consists of three rusty quarter inchers, equalized with slings. This would be considered a bad anchor even by obscure desert tower standards. Back things up with small to medium cams if you plan on TRing. For cleaning: best not to lower off the anchor... rap instead. Jun 20, 2003

A really grat route, although I am not sure why the nostalgic anchors are still in place, those are scary. This route has a SUPERB photo-op on a beautiful sunny day, blue sky behind the arete looking down the canyon around the 4th bolt. A beauty..... Enjoy. Sep 25, 2001

While a real fun climb with great holds - I found the old hangers (two of which spin carelessly around the old expansion bolts) a wee bit disconcerting! Aug 8, 2001

I loved this route, even though I usually climb hard sport routes, it is fun to climb a route once in a while that is just fun. Jun 12, 2001

This is a great climb, I really enjoyed leading it. Jan 1, 2001

Conceived by Steve. Led by Steve and Mic with only trad gear - rather reachy and R-rated by 1980's standards. Retro bolted by Mic after consult w/ Steve in the early '90s. Mar 13, 2006

Routes on the Brick Wall are great for those who love the feeling of great friction on sparse but sometimes obvious crimpers. I felt that this route was a bit harder than 5.11 b/c and felt that some of the moves could have been as difficult as 5.12 a/b. The beginning of the climb is very enjoyable especially on a sunny spring day. The worst part of the climb is often the beginning moves because you may pendulum into some bushes on a toprope. As you climb up to the roof it does not appear to be particularly complex. Do not be fooled. For those who are under about five foot four you will find the roof to be extremely frustrating but can be solved with a three finger undercling and possibly a right heel hook depending on and individual's flexibility. After completing the arduos roof all of the possible crimps are obvious but you would be a bit more fortunate if it was a cold and friction-friendly day. To reach the anchors following the difficult prow the climbing is possibly easier than 5.8. The last time I climbed this route there was a small wired stopper stuck in a finger crack to the left of the acceptable finish. If an in-experienced intermediate or advanced climber is looking for a challenging and crimpy toprope problem, this route will feel like it was designed just for you. Mar 19, 2005

This is a really fun route, well worth 2 stars. There are three distinct sections of difficulty: 1) A bouldery, bulge above the initial ramp. The gear is a bit tricky, but the stance below this section is fairly good, so take your time to get in a good nut or small cam before committing to the moves 2) Once above the bulge you enter a short but fun finger and hands left facing corner with greasy feet. Plenty of places for good gear and a good rest stance once above the difficulties. This rest is useful for 3) A right angling thin hands crack takes you over the lip to the top of the Brick Wall. Once over the lip, traversing 20 feet or so takes you to some chains to lower off from. You can also top rope an 11ish face climb going up the middle of the Brick Wall from these anchors.. Please use your own slings off of the anchors while top-roping to avoid unecessary wear The cruxes are short but all very different and at about the same grade. Definitely a fun pitch after work.... Josh Hemann If other Boulder Canyon climbs like Curvin Crack and Classic Finger Crack get three stars, I would certainly give this route at least two stars. The reasons: -The route is longer than the above mentioned climbs and has three distinct cruxes (a bouldery, bulge start, a finger crack corner with greasy feet, and a thin hands roof to finish) -Short approach if you decide not to belay from the car -Can easily top rope the 11 face climb once you finish The Perfect Route. So... If stars are supposed to convey to people the quality of the route and "climbing experience", I would recommend adding some stars to this route Jun 15, 2003

The crux is near the top, and the last horizontal crack has no good holds. The best holds are slopers. Jun 6, 2016

There was a time in the late '80s and early '90s when it was a crapshoot to find the Brick Wall available especially after 5 pm. Nowadays when I pass by, it is usually wide open. This seems to be the same for a lot of crags around Boulder these days. I just don't see many climbers out in Boulder Canyon after work in the spring - summer - fall anymore. Maybe that's a good thing? Sep 7, 2011

This reminded me of Question of Balance in Taylor Canyon, Gunnison. Similar rock slickness, similar length (this is a little longer), similar increase in severity as you go higher, similar failure for me on both (couldn't get the last few moves, glad I was on toprope!). Sep 19, 2007

This is a fun route, my buddy Ryan and I toproped it. It got kind of cold at about three o'clock, but I'll take what I can get in February. I'm suprised more people don't climb here. If you feel pretty good when you start this, if you move a little farther left from the start, the first moves are more like 5.8+. Still fun though! Feb 20, 2007

Crease and South Face are both listed as route #3. Which is which? Aug 20, 2004

Fun route with the crux IMHO near the top when climbing in between the two cracks. Definitely some real fun moves down low, then get the pump going in between the two cracks. Enjoy the super easy TR set-up. May 24, 2003

If you blindfolded me on the drive/approach, then put me on this climb, I would have told you that we were in Vedauwoo. I have big hands, so it felt like 5.9 but in the most physically burly way possible. Easier than Black Crack though. Apr 7, 2016

Pretty physical for 5.9...I guess maybe "Castle Rock 5.9" (think The Black Crack). I think folks with small hands will find this to be significantly harder. I thought it was a decent pitch if you're looking for something different to do in the area. At the top, there are now nearby anchors on White Trash, so you don't have to choose one of the options Tony describes. Jun 15, 2015

There is only one area with guano on this at the moment, and it is avoidable. This climb is hard for 5.9, but most 9+ climbs do feel pretty difficult. Apr 6, 2015

I have average guy size hands, and only had to throw one fist in for the whole route. I give this three stars for: steepness, even nature, great jams, and I found it dirty only down low. Jun 18, 2009

Pretty good route with shade. Seemed a little stiff for 5.9--pretty wide down low. Jul 16, 2005

Tried this once some years ago when I was a fairly solid 5.9 leader and got spanked. Extra #3 Camalots/#3.5 Friends. May 29, 2003

This is no BoCan 12a. Gear isn't necessary on the mid-route runout, it is pretty mellow terrain compared to the rest of the route. The last three bolts are sustained, tricky climbing with bad feet. Jul 16, 2017

I would like to watch a dozen good climbers do this one and see how they do it. I guess 12c is maybe an exageration, I was able to get it first go on TR (although absolutely barely). All total, I am 5/6 on it (fell on #5 last night, much swearing), but man is it hard as hell. I always feel like I am falling off of every move through that first 2 bolts off the ledge. I am curious about Tony's comments about the small holds - I couldn't figure out how to use anything other than pretty decent holds. Mostly just the direction of them and the utter lack of feet is what makes it hard to be confident on this one. Jun 20, 2014

Ouch! I was able to TR this route without falling when we put it in. Since my climbing ability was already in decline by then, I doubt I could climb 5.12c. I believe we did not rate it 5.12a either. Whatever the rating, it is a really good climb. You should have seen how much lichen was there when we started. Jun 20, 2014

I would have to disagree with the assumption that this route is easier if you are tall. The brutal undercling/laybacking would probably favor a shorter person. I thought this thing felt closer to 12c than 12a. I was really surprised at how hard it is, compared to other 12a's by the same FAs. Overall, a good route. Would be a 3 star route if the shit was cleaned off of the best holds and some lichen was scrubbed. Jun 20, 2014

This climb is a lot better than it looks from the ground. We used a #1 Camalot in the horizontal.... Though if you get here and you have no cams, I think it wouldn't be too ballsy to do without the piece. Hard and sequential. Feb 19, 2011

This route is pretty stiff and would be a really tough OS. I found that it was slick and dusty, so hard to hold onto, but mosly solid and not crumbly like some other area routes. The layback flake is quite thin, and the best holds are not obvious. At the end of the crux sequence, the "jug" is just out of reach for a guy my height (5'10"), and I suspect that there is a strong dividing line for difficulty vs. height on this one. Also, being light probably helps, as some of the holds are viciously small for the power you have to put on them. May 19, 2009

How did I spend so much time at Castle Rock over the last couple of years without getting on this? A mystery to be sure, but this climb is just pure fun. A combination of varied crack technique with intricate, sequence-based footwork through an overhang, it's one of those sequences that seems like such a puzzle that it's hard to believe it wasn't created by a route-setter at the Spot. Heads up, after the crux I got up into the chimney and set loose a swarm of weird bugs. A sunny winter day after the frost/cold has thinned the bug population would be a more optimal time to hop on. Nov 2, 2015

The exit is pretty wild in that it involves a strange technique. It is easier than the crux cracks below. The route is fun, but the hard part is short. Apr 6, 2015

The exit is pretty wild. Sep 1, 2013

Damn, I thought that kind of stuff only happened to me.... May 1, 2011

Fun Climb. I was leading and I fell turning the first roof with a cam at about my waist and another right below my feet. The clip in point on the back of my climbing shoe clipped into the quickdraw on the cam at my feet and flipped me over. It's pretty hard to extricate yourself while hanging from your heel. May 1, 2011

More of a boulder problem than the gill crack, the business is followed by 20 feet of 5.4. Jun 17, 2009

This is one of the best climbs of the grade in Boulder Canyon. It has it all. Rad chimney. Head jam optional. Fingers, hands, tight hands, stemming.... Aug 25, 2008

This climb is another victim of change in the CB/MP star system. Both of the previous posters' ratings were provided under the old system when a 2* single pitch meant "great". This pitch is quite fun and memorable. The only thing keeping it from classic status is its brevity. Jun 16, 2007

Fun lower crux, decent route for sure if you're in the area. Unfortunate bolting though - definitely some unnecessary ledge/deck potential with the bolt placement. Funny how you round the corner and the grades change, felt like a BoCan 10b but a Castle Rock 9. Jan 23, 2017

The area by the second bolt is certainly the crux. The moves are not obvious, and it takes some thought to figure out the best sequence. The steep part up high is strenuous but not that hard. Apr 6, 2015

Two hard parts, the rest easy. First hard part at 2nd bolt, about 10c. Aug 6, 2009

Great start to this route, requiring balancy, slab technique. The moves were non-obvious, and the thought process was part of the fun. Jul 4, 2007

Great route for the length. Seemed about 10c. Jun 11, 2006

...the one who can be many places at once... Apr 20, 2006

I can see where it is a different climb if you want to stay completely away from the stinkin' piles of BS in the corner... but yeah, those are retrobolts and the climb is 5.10. For a 5.11, get on Momentum Operator, to the right. Jun 29, 2015

In the '99 Rositer book, this line is described as 'Out to Pasture', 10a, Hare and Wood, 1980, which seems about right. Funny that somewhere since it gets two bolts, renamed, and upgraded. Don't know how its described in the newer BC book, but then you wouldn't know anything re the history or first ascentionist from that guide anyway.... Fun little line. Jun 12, 2011

Agree with Dave, probably a full number grade easier. There is a route in the Rossiter book, I think it is called "Altar" (5.10) that seems very similar to Momentus Fist Trainer, minus the bolts at the start.... Jun 24, 2009

This climb was inspired by the Momentus Swing Trainer which is designed to improve your golf swing. This climb will help you improve your fist jamming technique. May 17, 2006

This route is harder than 10-. I agree that it is about 10b in difficulty. The crux is near the third bolt. Apr 6, 2015

As for all these sport routes, crumbly rock in need of cleaning. This one is not 10-. 10b at least. Worth doing. Aug 6, 2009

Bolts replaced 5/11/17, hardware was provided by your donations to the ASCA! safeclimbing.org. May 11, 2017

FA was certainly done on or before 2003 as a T.R. (myself) but it was more than likely much earlier- it's obvious and it's below the anchors. FFA: Bob, Ron & Greg I guess, because I don't know that anyone led it. But that leaves to ethical question the practice of bolting TR's. Seems like a grey area when it's unknown and in a relatively unpopular area. So perhaps the question is bolting what could so obviously be one? Jul 14, 2006

The end of the crack is the most difficult. The crack pushes you to the left when you want to jam straight in. The cold shut anchor would be good after a lead, but to top rope it is easier to set an anchor above. Sep 26, 2014

A two-coldshut anchor is immediately to the left, at the top of the crack, just below the rim. Apr 6, 2014

The protection on this is not great. There is gear but not a lot and not always when you want it. You don't jam very much in this crack. Things get easier near the top. Sep 26, 2014

I had forgotten about this one. It's worth the walk up the hill. Sep 18, 2008

I felt like the 2nd jump was harder than the first to the good crimp. Maybe I did it strange, but after matching on the crimp after the initial lunge if you stay off the left hold which traverses into the V6, there’s no other holds until a bigger throw to a sloper at the top. Definitely no harder than a V7, but it took a few goes. Is this the intended beta? Oct 20, 2017

The original start of AO seems a bit awkward and hard to reach without jumping, even for me at 5'9" with a +2. I started far right on an obvious, juggy rail/seam and crossed/crimped my way into the crux of AO. Felt V5ish and was great fun! Excellent features/movement on quality stone. Classic! Apr 25, 2017

The landing has been leveled, and there is no need for the R rating any longer. I don't really know how to feel about the extensive landscaping that took place here. On one hand, I'm grateful to finally have a terrific warmup on perfect rock with a safe landing zone. On the other, the landscaping totally changes the nature of this climb and the bold, visionary, first ascent will never again be pause for reflection when one contemplates this line. I hope that in the future, when traffic and erosion dictates trail building, people (or counties) will consider all resources before building ten foot wide trails at the bases of rock formations. Apr 9, 2012

I remember going here around 1976 with Ament's Master of Rock book. Bachar and I were trying to do all the problems in the book and it had a classic of Gill with a hat on powering across the traverse. I remember thinking this problem was pretty classic but without pads, you had to fire it for sure, as the fall was onto rocks. This seemed more tenuous than soloing the longer Gill Crack (5.12a or so). John Aug 2, 2010

If you start down low in on a crimp rail system, below where the original line traverses, and make a huge dynamic toss that reconnects the original line it's more like (V6)!! It's a cool move that is put's a new face on this already classic line. Also moving off this same crimp rail up and left via smaller but positive crimps adds another cool variation that's about (V4) or so. Point.... this is a cool and dynamic wall with some interesting options for difficulty and style of climbing. Not to be missed!! Aug 25, 2009

Sorry about the wrong photo beta info...guys. I think this one is called "The Standard Bulge." And this V5 is on the Citadel formation for sure. Thanks for your input. Aug 25, 2009

Nice pic, wrong problem, not even the right formation. This is on the Citadel, a hundred yards and over the bridge from the real AO. Aug 24, 2009

This picture is not of AO, it's a V5 by Cage Free. Nice picture, it to is a great boulder problem. Aug 24, 2009

This rig is always a killer warm-up for me, but I love the line. Aug 24, 2009

Completed the left crack (according to the pictures and description) with Eddie as it looked longer and more fun. All placements were bomber, and the smallest gear used was only a black Alien, which probably could have even been avoided. Mostly yellow TCU/Alien-sized pieces, I think we used 3. Overall a very fun (and extremely awkward) little pitch, with the old Star Drive at the lip probably being the sketchiest part of the whole affair. This is also a great place to go if you want to get out but it's raining/snowing. It rained hard the entire time we were there, but the roof is, well, a large roof and does its job quite well! Sep 12, 2013

I solo aided this route today during the snow storm, it stays really dry. I used anything from a blue Lowe Ball and larger micro nuts up to a #3.5 and even a hook near the top. I took the right side line with the bolts but decided it was never really necessary to clip them. The right side seemed like it might be harder as an aid line as the placments were often flared out, which the left side did not seem to have the same issue. I found that I used my yellow/red and yellow/green Alien hybrids quite a bit near the lip. C2? (I have no idea) Mar 2, 2008

Cleaning the routes is easier than leading them IF:1)you place pro every couple of feet. Do Not place pro at your farthest reach.2)you RE-AID the pitch. The pro is in place, no jumars, clip and go, backup your self Dec 1, 2003

The left hand crack goes at A2+ with Lost Arrows and Angles or can be done cleanly at C3 wtih Lowe Balls and small TCUs. It's definitely a notch up in difficulty from the right hand crack and quite fun.I believe the A4 branches off the left hand line and certainly appears to be dicey. As a word of encouragement, if you can aid the C1 roof without clipping the bolts and get up CCC in under a couple hours, you probably have the necessary aid skills to do a starter big wall in Zion or Yosemite. Also, it's worth noting that cleaning either line is probably harder than leading them. Nov 29, 2003

I aided it in July '02 and it felt like an easy A2. I left a large stopper before the first bolt that I couldn't get out..is it still there? Dec 14, 2002

It's a bummer that your QDs got stolen, man. However,Castle Rock is primarily a trad area and getting stuff stolen is something to take into consideration when leaving gear behind in areas where such practice is rare (unlike sport-crags). I think that taking the bolt hangers, though, is a much worse offense because its affects go beyond one or two folks trying to free the route. In the particular case of Aid Roof, the bolts really don't matter because it's still just C1. But imagine someone aiding a route with rivets and/or bolts and then rappelling it to chop/take them out. Suddenly, a section of C1 or C2 turns into a C3+(or worse) horror show with continuous top-step bat-hooking. Sure, these climbs exits but for a novice aid climber expecting C1 bolt ladders... I greatly respect anyone who even attempts to free these kinds of climbs. And just because some hard working free climbers left gear doesn't automatically mean it is booty. I doubt that the dude who stole those QDs and hangers ever attempted to free the line. Sure, the draws might be a little unsightly, but their presence on such a badass route is much more inspirational than annoying. Oct 24, 2002

Comparing the addition of bolts to this route to those on CCC is not fair. CCC was put up when there was crap for gear and free climbing was not what it is today. While I am a far cry from sending this route free, I have climbed similar features such as Separate Reality or Welcome To China (near Gunnison) where placing gear and having the rope get in the way of my feet was a large part of the difficulty. My guess is that some of these difficulties are why the bolts were added to this route, as the A1 gear is foolproof. I would like to think that in 50 or 100 years climbers will be cruising this thing and will laugh at whoever put the bolts in. That said, I am more impressed with this as a free route than bummed about the bolts. It's an odd idea to reduce a route by adding bolts while improving the route by freeing it; maybe someone else can improve upon the syle. Oct 23, 2002

No I have not tried the roof free, but that is irrevelent. I think that there are very little odds of the gear 'welding' into place (this assumes that the gear is well placed). Have you freed or aided the roof to see what gear is available? I disagree with leaving natural pro in the rock for several days or more so one can work the moves. There are several empty bolt holes on CCC and I am very glad that all of the unnecessary bolts were removed. I do not detest the bolts in the aid roof, but I do not like to see draws hanging from it - the difference being how much more noticable one is compared to the other. I met one gentleman who was attempting to redpoint the roof and I told him "good work, certainly more than I could do without aiders". If you want to ask any more personal questions, email me at the email I provided. That way we can keep unnecessary bullshit off this public site. Oct 23, 2002

Have you tried the route free? What do you think the odds are that any gear placed for a free ascent is going to stay there, eventually welded in place by climbers falling and hanging to work out the moves? By the way it's been a while but wasn't there a bolt next to a perfect crack on Country Club? Oct 23, 2002

I could see your reasoning on the CCC and Athlete's Feat if there were bolts next to the perfect cracks on each climb with quick draws hanging from it. Two bolts and one visible anchor on each climb are not the eyesore that three brightly colored draws hanging on a roof are. In my original post, I was only pointing out the fact that the draws were very noticeable and it only takes a couple of complaints by non-climbers to close an area (bolt ban in the Flatirons for example). I was also pointing out that the roof takes great gear, whether placed on lead or on aid, and the bolts are not needed. I greatly respect the effort to free the roof, but do the means justify the end? Some climber really need to open their eyes to the impact, visually and audibly in some cases, to the other people who are enjoying the area, climber or non-climber. I find it interesting that gear left on a route (besides fixed anchors) is considered booty unless it is on a sport climb. As easy as it is to clip a draw to a bolt, is it really necessary to leave the draws on the bolts? I realize the climb is hard, but clipping all the quick draws in place is not. Oct 22, 2002

If everthing that wasn't rock was removed from Castle Rock a lot of classic so-called "trad" routes would be a lot less popular, starting with Country Club Crack and Athlete's Feat. Oct 22, 2002

It's great some one removed your gear. Yee whoo! Booty. If folks removed everything left at the cliff that wasn't rock we wouldn't be having these discusions about bolts. Oct 22, 2002

That sucks that someone took your gear. Fortunately, even thought the two hangers were removed, the route accepts bomber gear through out the whole climb. Preplace it on aid if you can't place it while on lead. It would be nice not to see draws continually hanging from it (especially because of the non-climbers who pass through and see the 'crap hanging on the rock' and want the area closed to those crazy climbers). Oct 21, 2002

I tried this route on 10.19.02- worked all of the moves, had a great time, left my draws on it planning to return the next day to try and redpoint it. When I came back in the afternoon of 10.20, I found not only my draws missing, but the first 2 bolt hangers removed. The loser(s) who did this, left one of my slings looped through the third bolt hanger so they could get off. Apparently who ever did this, aside from being a complete asshole, must have been a completely incompetent free climber since they left my quickdraw at the anchor which requires mandatory 5.9 hand crack climbing to reach. Based on the evidence found at the scene, and composites developed through several witnesses, the suspect is a white male, 25-40 yrs, soft and pudgy with a pasty complexion. He probably suffers from a lack of affection from his mother growing up. Consequently, has never had an intimate relationship with a woman. His only contact with the female sex is through the internet, magazines, or role playing video games. Based on the way the route and my gear was treated, the suspect was probably abused as a child. Suspects poorly developed sense of self-esteem, resulting in below average aptitude in sports, poor social skills Oct 20, 2002

A boulder problem, huh? Interesting. The route goes free at 5.14 and when I solo-aided it, all the bolts had QDs on them (hope you finally worked it buddy). Don't kid yourself into thinking this is a first-timer aid route. I saw a party bail after the first bolt and then spend 20 minutes trying to rap off the bolt in high winds. Keep it low in your aiders. You can cheater-stick between bolts if you absolutely have to, but why? Sep 23, 2002

This climb is hard and awkward, at least the first 3 pitches. Yosemite-esque grading system. All anchors are bolted. All the cracks gobble up gear. P1 - 2 clips, super tough mantel move. Not recommended right after a rain. Come to think of it, none of it should be climbed right after it rains. Maybe I should take my own advice... 11+. P2 - Overhang crack/corner/lieback. Awkward. Hard. Throw a #4 in there, and blast up! 11-. P3 - A slightly easier version of P2. 10d. P4 - Fantastic. Good exposure on some jams. I beached whaled to get over the last bit. Super fun. 10c. P5 - Sweet exposure. Watch out for that last flake, it's pretty hollow. There's definitely a death block waiting to be pulled out (it had an X on it when I climbed). To be honest, I was a little disappointed with this climb. Everybody says it's super classic this, super classic that, but the pitches are really short and awkward. The only good pitches with cool exposure are 4-5. I'm sure many disagree with me, but hey, what are internet forums for anyway? Descent: head north. Sep 1, 2017

Pssssshhh, fuck you, guys, that mantel move isn't 11a, and you know it. Cold conditions are mandatory for the opening moves (as with CCC) otherwise you're just senselessly flogging the tips. Come to think of it, cold conditions are useful for the rest of the climb as well. You can combine the first three pitches with a tagline to rap on for a really phenomenal lead and toprope after with some directionals, great and very physical training. Sep 8, 2016

Gee... a couple of months before Rick Linkert's ascent in 1973 (see above) we "sort of" looked at this climb. Looked very hard then, and Ivan's photo makes it still look hard! Broken hold or not at the mantel, "ya gotta give credit" to anyone who climbed this before the advent of "sticky rubber". Apr 20, 2016

WARNING: As of 4/9/2016, there are two extremely loose blocks at the top of pitch 5, roughly 5-10 feet left of the final anchors. They are both about half a cubic meter large, and exceedingly prone to being cast down the 5th pitch and any climb below. They are both on route for the Athlete's Feat and look pretty solid, but they're not. On the other hand, what an amazing climb! Pitch 1 was... strenuous. Pitches 2-4 are immaculate, and pitch 5 was fun as well. You should go do this climb! Apr 9, 2016

Hmmm. I'm surprised it's not greasier. It's not too bad when it's cooler out.... Mar 17, 2014

Thanks for your time and efforts, Gregger Man! Feb 16, 2014

Replaced the 2nd bolt on P1 today by cleanly extracting the stud and installing a 1/2" x 3" SS PowerBolt and SS Fixe hanger. Feb 16, 2014

Few routes deliver such sustained and varied climbing at the grade. Pitch 4 was the easiest for me on account of I have reasonable balance, and pitch 1 was sorta easy (but my solution was very height-dependent). Pitch 2 and 4 were just ass kickers - because I kinda suck at picking the right pro while pumped and reaching around a semi-blind corner! Best skill for the send is gonna be efficient pro placement (and choice), 'cause the moves are sustained. What a blast! Nov 16, 2013

I just stumbled across this thread and thought I would add a bit of amusing history. I climbed Athlete's Feat in the fall of 1973; at the time it still had a bit of a reputation. Years of mantling in Yosemite were helpful on the first pitch. The second pitch was scream. There was an old "sucker" piton beat into the horizontal crack. The problem was that it was beat so far into the crack that it would not accept a carabiner - any carabiner. And I tried every style I had on the rack. By the time I figured out what was going on, my arms were pretty flamed. I got some nut in and kept chugging to the belay. My partner was pretty amused. I remember that pro in the pre-cam era was a bit sketchy on the wide pitches. Jan 23, 2012

Thanks to chains at the end of every pitch, you can easily get off this with one rope as of summer 2010. Sep 2, 2010

Was on CCC today, looks like the last pitch of Athlete's Feat, is now sporting a set of anchors, still some mank at the end of the third. Sep 23, 2008

I was on this thing with a buddy a few years back, when I got on top he said "something bit me!" Sure enough, he had two little holes on his calf that were oozing blood. He was convinced that it was a bat and paid for the rabies series - $1200 - ouch! With all of the photo's you guys post of this climb, I'm surprised there isn't one of the hibernacula. Watch out! Jun 18, 2008

What a classic climb! I wish though I had read some of the comments before embarking with my wife. I figured a bit of 11a and then a fun 5.10. It took me about 10 times to get the crux move on p.1. If it wasn't for Bob D'Antonio and a group of his friends shouting beta, I would probably still be there trying various possibilities. On p.2, the move from the layback into to the crack was hardish (a fist jam above the chalked hold in the crack worked for me). The p.3 exit was very physical. My last piece was about half way down the crack. Scary. It may be helpful to bring no. 5 Camalot, just for the peace of mind. Now to pitch 4. This was the scariest, most insecure pitch I've climbed in a while. The gear is good (small up to 0.75), but the rock is polished and the moves are sketchy. For me too, this was the hardest pitch (not counting p.1), though it would be very hard to choose the hardest move. I suppose every move is 5.10a or something. Now to my question, how were pitches 3 and 4 protected before cams? Sep 20, 2007

From Pat Ament, writing on Supertopo: There is a route on Boulder Canyon's Castle Rock called Athlete's Feat. The name was given by Robbins when he and I did the route all free (now rathed one pitch of 5.11 and four of 5.10, pretty stiff for 1964, no chalk, Spiders for shoes). Anyway the route had been mostly aided before but not named. The first pitch is an amazing, smooth, bulging wall. Robbins did a finger-tip undercling up and left, on vertical rock, with his fingers under a thin flake, then -- while holding with the right hand under the cling, reached up and right, above him, with his left hand, leaning backward, to get his left finger tips on a small hold at the upper lip of the bulge. The feet aren't on much. For protection he had only a scary-looking bugaboo piton hammered straight up under the thin flake. Below is a big spike of granite that might impale you if you fell. He pulls up on the left finger-tip hold and reaches above the bulge. There is mostly nothing up there but a steep smooth slab and a not-so-good hold to pinch for the right hand. To make a long story short, he does a wild, sloping mantel up onto that smooth, slanting surface, a really bold lead way above his pro, with a ground fall likely onto that spike probably if he failed. Years later I was strolling along the road, came around the corner, and saw a guy standing in aid on that section. He'd already placed a bolt and was drilling another one above that one, right where the master had carved with me such a beautiful Michelangelo of an ascent. I tried not to go crazy and simply said to the leader, "What are you doing?" He replied, "Puttng up a new route." I replied, "I hate to tell you, but that route goes all free. It has been led without protection." The answer came back to me, "Oh SURE it was, SURE it was done free." I realized I could do or say nothing, so walked away. A few days later the two climbers were spreading it all over town, "Ament was up at Castle Rock trying to tell everyone how to climb." Anyway, for a long time subsequent free climbers used those bolts for protection. I think the top bolt is still used, creating in essence a top-rope for the bold, crux move. Not many know what a brilliant lead that was back in the stone age... Fred Flintstone Jun 15, 2007

Well, I have always wondered how solid that fixed Alien on P2 was. As we climbed it today, I clipped it (and backed it up--I've never really liked it) and kept going. It didn't appear to be any different than I remembered. As my partner climbed up to it, the motion of the rope as he approached was enough to cause it to fall out of the crack. Kind of scary. I'm pretty sure I fell on this cam a few years ago, and I know I've seen others fall on it. The cam is mutilated. The cams don't even move anymore. Oct 14, 2006

Fun route, but be careful when plugging in cams just off the 2nd belay. Apparently there were some loose flakes in there when I did it, and when I fell just after the bulge I pulled a solid-feeling #2 Camalot which extended the fall all the way back to the belay ledge. My partner says he saw a bunch of rock fragments fly out when the cam blew. I wasn't injured or anything, but it was the first piece of gear that I ever had pull out on me. Jan 31, 2006

There is graffiti in black sraypaint that reads Deb I You-05' about twenty feet from the base of the crack-very ugly. the same thing is tagged across the road on the low-angled climbs... Access Fund, please scrub this stupidity off the side of this tower. Jul 6, 2005

Fun and in your face climbing. Most of the real cruxes are short, but to me the 10b and 5.9 pitches run togehter presented the most challenge. They are consistently insecure and seem harder than their respective grades, particularly finishing up 'direct' from the last set up chains, going up on a crack to the steep flake to the right. This is one of the better routes at Castle. After climbing this again in the cold, I think that the difficulty is very weather dependant. Cruisable in the right temps, close to impossible if too hot or cold. Jun 9, 2005

Some excerpts from the description of Athelete's Feat in the 1970 High Over Boulder guidebook by Pat Ament and Cleveland McCarty (Royal Robbins and Pat Ament did the FFA of Athlete's Feat): ...Involving some of the most severe and sustained 5th class climbing in the Boulder area, with three leads of 5.10 and two 5.9, this route incites respect in all acrobats with a lust for maximum difficulty.... [Check this out about P1! No bolts.] Climb to the top of the flake, place a piton to the left (above your head) [but below the slab!] for protection, and climb up and over a severe bulge to the bench.... The second lead is one of the most difficult 5th class pitches in the region... The third lead (5.10) is the shortest (although it refuses to let the party rest). It was first led free in 1964 by Dave Rearick [same year as the FFA]. Layback up a severe, overhanging bong-bong crack [for you youngsters, bongs are big angle pitons], and make a difficult exit move.... The fourth lead does not ease off. Climb straight up the deceptively easy-looking corner above... Jun 27, 2004

And some excerpts from Jim Erickson's 1980 Rocky Heights guide: A classic Robbins pun, a classic route, and the most continuous free climb in the country in 1964 [but perhaps not the technically hardest?]. The first pitch, which was originally more serious [see mention of piton in previous comment], now has a bolt above the bulge for protection, thanks to some idiots who didn't believe it could be climbed free. A broken hold has increased its standards a little.....History: In 1964 Royal Robbins and Pat Ament climbed the entire route free, with pitches one and two extracting some tries. Jun 27, 2004

After a humiliating day on (and much off) Athlete's Feat, it was reassuring to read some of the comments above about people getting _crushed_ by this route. If I had read the comments this morning, I would have gone back to bed. To complete the humiliation, as we topped out, we got hit by a lightning storm and pouring rain. I first did this route with my brother Paul and Rich Perch (a long time Grand Tetons climbing ranger and now a ranger in Canyonlands) in 1975 during a short stopover in Boulder on the way to Yosemite. Although we didn't have to wear Kroenhopher's (spelling doesn't look right), neither did we have cams and fancy nuts. Basic stoppers and hexes. But there were probably some fixed pins. The key hold on the P1 mantle probably hadn't broken yet. Don't remember much about P2 and P3. We may have taken a few falls, but we were young and foolish and may have just went for it without much gear. I do remember P4 and how surprisingly hard it was. Today, after a few half-hearted efforts we aided P1. Highly recommended (to aid it). I got partly up using the technique Bill Wright mentions on 6/14/02, but didn't have the motivation, and perhaps not the strength, to follow through with the mantle. What seemed most promising to me was this, not mentioned above: There is a good crimp for your right hand on the _lip_ out right. Best hold on this pitch. Left hand to the big pinch, but use it as a layback. Now that you are to the right, there are no footholds. I leaned out and walked my feet up and then threw my left foot high onto the small but positive hold on the lip to the left. Started to pull onto the foot, but couldn't quite make it. I won't say much about pitches 2-4, other than that 2 and 3 weren't pretty. Can we say we did _Upper Athlete's Feat_? With rain threatening I started up the easy-looking P5 9 variation. Ran into trouble with some bird shit on the _ledge_. Not too bad, but psyched me out. Wasn't sure what to do here, and ended up hand traversing left to join up with the top of the 8 variation. The 9 variation apparently continues up the left curving crack. There are also some flakes angling a bit right that look climbable. Jun 27, 2004

as of a couple days ago, no fuzzy little winged needles on the fourth pitch. Very good route, the fixed alien and nut most-definately helps with the second pitch. May 20, 2004

CAUTION!!! There is a wasp's nest about two-thirds of the way up pitch 4. Three or four wasps started swarming around my partner as she led it. She lowered quickly until they left her alone, and then went back and down-aided to get the gear out. The nest is right in the crack and is unavoidable, but you can rappel off from the 1st, 2nd, or 3rd belay of this route, so you can still do the first few pitches. It's probably best to just wait for the wasps to vacate in the fall.As for climbing it in summer, it can be done. This time of year the first pitch gets sun at about 9 AM, and you better be done with it by then or it becomes virtually impossible. The rest of the pitches aren't as bad on a hot day.All things considered, this is one of the better routes I've done in the canyon. Royal sure knows how to pick 'em. Aug 7, 2003

This is by far the hardest route I have ever tried. The sad thing is that me and some friends from Nebraska only did the first pitch. It was blast trying it and if you can get someone to put it up on TR for you try it out. Although after flailing around it may just be easier to lead it. Aug 29, 2002

Hey [Willie], sounds like [Charles] might not have gotten the redpoint on this one. Aug 28, 2002

It is very gratifying to hear such comments, as I recently returned to this route and got crushed. I couldn't do the first pitch crux for the life of me. Then I got hammered leading the second pitch and fell off the third pitch (following, thankfully). At that point the fourth pitch felt utterly desperate. My partner, who cruised everything put the crux move and eventually got that, called the 4th pitch the hardest on the route (not counting the crux move). I think this route is a lot harder than CCC when taken in their entirety. They have similarly hard, crux starts and while CCC has a harder crack crux and a more sustained section of climbing, it doesn't have as many very hard sections as this route. Back to the drawing board on this one for me... Jul 15, 2002

Agreed on the sandbag thing, especially pitches 1, 3, and 4... probably just the high polish factor though. Still, if you can lead this whole route clean, then you should be able to get up Astroman. Jul 15, 2002

Holy sandbag! IMO, every pitch is difficult for the given ratings. Very worth doing though. Jul 15, 2002

I just recently did this route got the mantle clean (on TR) for the first time. I not sure what "bucket hold" Steve is talking about, but this is how I did it. Undercling with the left hand as usual and obvious. I can then make a big reach (six feet tall) and get the crummy pinch over the roof with my right hand. Feet are very tricky at this point and you have to really pay attention so you don't slip off. Then I put my left hand on the tiny, painful crimp on the lip of the roof. I quickly switch this to mantle position and then get my left foot up on an edge BELOW the lip of the roof. Once there I press out the mantle and struggle to get my right foot over the lip. I used to think this mantle move was harder than the Country Club Crack start, but now I think they are pretty similar in difficulty. Each one is very difficult and solid 5.11 (especially when compared to sport route ratings in this canyon) and each one involves a "trick". Tough, fun stuff. Also, I led the third pitch with a single #3 Camalot. This might be a little bold, though I'm not known to do such things, but I think it is the easiest way to do this pitch. Lieback up to the foothold and get a jam. Place the #3 Camalot and get ready to gun for the top. Lieback the rest of the way until you can reach over the top and thankfully get a hand jam. Don't blow it up here, but if you do it this way the entire pitch will take about two minutes to lead. Jun 14, 2002

Start has a good nut about 8 feet up then nothing to the first bolt. The low nut would be useless when you're making the 10ish moves to the bolt, you would be soloing (the apparent rail 20 ft up has no pro). I extended the first bolt with draws, and then it's reasonable to lead and a super fun route. What a gem! The upper crux pulls fine without gear after the bomber corner gear - spicy but a clean fall. Personally, I would way rather have the first bolt 8 ft. lower to avoid the decker. It doesn't need more bolts, but it's too bad they were kinda poorly placed, IMHO. Really a great line though! May 30, 2016

4 star movement and rock quality, if only a little short. 3 stars overall. Spectacular face climbing. This is intimidating to onsight but easy to redpoint after working out the moves and gear. Do not try to overprotect by placing gear in the jug slots. Instead, gun it for the horizontal crack and place a #6 BD stopper and a purple Metolius/blue Alien equivalent. The runout start is on fairly moderate climbing compared to the crux. Blowing at the crux could result in an unpleasant swing to the right. Sep 2, 2015

I took the fall just before the first bolt after probably 30+ ascents on lead. It's actually not all that bad of a fall with a soft landing...no more bolts please. Bring a crash pad if you’re worried. Apr 22, 2014

The route is R for sure. There is one good directional nut placement down low, although it would still be potentially a 30' ground-fall from the next moves getting to the bolt. They are maybe 10a moves but on small feet. Awesome movement. Jul 7, 2013

This route is definitely R rated if starting from the left ramp as opposed to directly beneath the first bolt. If starting along the ramp, be prepared for a dicey unprotected move. Cool route. Jun 23, 2012

Fine route with sketchy start. Looked like there was a place for tiny nut, but I would have doubts falling on it. The move from which you can hit the ground is only about 5.9, so I don't know how appropriate R rating would be in context of the whole route. A yellow C3 perfectly protects traverse left at the top, so you don't have to swing into the corner if you blow it. Sep 6, 2011

Dan and I climbed this route a year or so before his transition to rap bolting sport routes. This route, in my mind, represents the vision and commitment Dan held as a climber. Not only was it a bold lead, he found this line on one of the more popular crags in the canyon. That is his gift - finding great lines. I am glad to see others here defending this route in its original form. It would be a bummer to see bolts added to this route. Right after Dan and I climbed this route, a Spanish guy who was traveling through the area nailed the 2nd ascent and confirmed the rating. Apr 8, 2011

This is a great route- techy, pumpy, and a bit spicy. The PG-13 refers to the start, which is probably 10+. There is an obvious, bomber, small cam to protect the move up to the rail, then a #1 Peanut to protect the move to the jug. The rest of the gear is bomber but pumpy to place for sure. I called this 11c only, because IMHO it is much easier than Englishman's...might also be easier than CCC for many. In any case, awesome route that the competent 5.11 leader should not shy away from. Sep 20, 2010

My buddy, Steve Annecone, figured out how to get two good pieces (a yellow/green offset Alien and an RP) before the first bolt. The gear makes for a pretty damn safe lead and should only be considered S, at the worst. May 5, 2008

This route definitely does not need any bolts added. It is perfect as it is! It is an exciting lead but has probably been led hundreds of times if not much more. Not every route has to be dumbed down with a bunch of bolts. Leave some routes for those who like a little adventure and challenge. Oct 29, 2007

Please don't add bolts to this route. Thank you. Oct 29, 2007

I couldn't find any gear worth putting in before the first bolt. It's not much of an issue as the climbing up to that point is fairly easy. This is an excellent and pumpy lead, well worth doing. I don't know if I would say it's as hard as 11d though. Feb 25, 2002

I thought it was a good route. I don't remember any rp's to protect the start, though. After clipping the first bolt the gear remains good. Crux is pullin' on a crimper... way more straightforward, and basically easier, than the start of Country Club, the start of Athlete's Feat, and the beginning, slabby moves of Never a Dull Moment, all of which are rated one or two letter grades easier. Duncan Burke Nov 10, 2001

The last comment says you can place #2s, but I had two and did not use either. Small cams, a #3, and a #4 are what I used, and there are also good nuts. I did this climb in 1996, and it was fun to do it again in 2015. Makes me feel old.... Apr 6, 2015

I didn't find this route worthy of more than 1 star. As some have mentioned, I found the 'crux' to be quite easy, almost no-hands. I post the following for safety reasons. 1. The first 40' is very poorly protected until you get to the overhanging block in the corner. You can put some larger cams in, but the cracks are all flared. They look pretty good at ground-height, but it's misleading. I would give this a PG rating. 2. Bring extra #2-#4 cams. Leave the 0.75 and smaller on the ground. There's a few good nut placements once you're in the corner but not where you want them. Sep 12, 2013

I thought this was a 4 star or 3 star route depending on the maximum amount of stars for a route. Nice start with some clean and fun crack climbing up to a big roof. The would guess the overhang can either be 5.8 grunting or some very tame 5.6/7 stemming. Great climb. Nov 26, 2012

Where is it in relation to the new anchor? I remember what it looked like, with the little, head-sized rock supporting it. I even rapped off it, so you can imagine I looked at it pretty hard (waiting for it to fall and kill me).... Didn't notice it today, so I assumed it got trundled. But if you say it is there, I believe you. Thanks for the new anchor. Sep 17, 2011

I am sure the boulder is still there. I only removed the cable so no one would use it. You probably do not recognize it, because a sane person would not even consider it as a valid rappel anchor! Sep 17, 2011

Is the boulder that the cable was on gone? I couldn't recognize it. Lots of big loose blocks up there, but they didn't look like the one the cable was around.... This used to be rated 5.6. Sep 16, 2011

The medium hex can be done, and you can also lug a #4-5, but anyone with a sense of adventure should just have faith in the 5.8 holds because they are there. Aug 15, 2011

Greg- I didn't see the earlier note. This will add to the popularity of this climb. As an additional comment here; this isn't really the "original" Bailey's overhang route. The original route is about 15 feet to the right, if my failing memory hasn't failed me.... May 22, 2011

Thanks for the anchors. You will find them after climbing above the overhang and to the left on a nice ledge. This is a nice climb to freshen up on trad climbing for the summer. Mar 27, 2011

Rodger, If you look a few comments up, you will see I put in an anchor in Aug. 2009. Perhaps an admin should update the route description to reflect this. There is now a good (bolted) 2nd pitch called Beetle Bailey. Mar 14, 2011

I agree that it's a "one pitch wonder!" A rap station after the first lead would get a workout and make the climb more popular. Bolts and chains, anyone? Mar 12, 2011

Greg, Thanks for replacing the mess of an anchor that was there. Now, instead of grovelling to the top and doing the downclimb (because I refused to rap off of the old anchor), I can get back to the base quicker and get rolling on the next route. I was always amazed that the old anchor didn't just fall of the cliff under its own weight. Aug 21, 2009

The cable/rap anchor has been removed. Use the Fixe anchors. If you want to do a 2nd pitch, see Beetle Bailey. Aug 20, 2009

Thanks for taking care of this, Greg! Aug 10, 2009

My eyes nearly popped out of my head when I saw the cable/rap anchor. I placed 2 Fixe ring anchors in a better location. I was not able to disassemble the cable as one of the nuts was stuck. I will remove it later this week. Aug 10, 2009

Climbed 5/31/09 with S. Costello...First pitch is excellent, probably the best moderate at Castle. The roof does need a big cam, but there are good placements below that would hold a fall. I did it left side in, with a left-foot backstep to a solid foothold, then pulled over on jugs. This is a fun and not terribly difficult move. There IS quality climbing above the first pitch. We finished on a 40-50 foot left-facing 5.7 corner that looks kinda dirty and grassy but is actually fairly fun. The descent is made much easier if you can locate the big Douglas-fir with the rap chain. Jun 1, 2009

Our 4th climb of the day. Planned on it being my first 5.8 trad lead...then I got my foot stuck right in the beginning...getting super tired trying to get it out without decking head first. Anyway...ended up following, and thought it was a super fun climb. Nothing super difficult, but felt like a true 5.8...wasn't a walk in the park by any means for a newer climber. Jun 1, 2009

I just climbed this on 6/16/08. A very well protected lead. I left a new sling at the rusty piton halfway up. Didn't trust old runners. Didn't really trust the rusty piton either. But I used it anyways. Jun 21, 2008

We didn't like the looks of the cable/rap anchor, so we continued up to the top of the crag. By heading up and left from the cable we got to a decent chimney with clean and solid rock in the back of it. Easy climbing on that second pitch, but there aren't a lot of chimney pitches in Boulder Canyon, so it was a nice surprise. (Perhaps this is the upper pitch of the West Face?) Jun 15, 2008

I found this route fun and well protected. The overhang moves at the top are easy once you see it. I echo what is said above that the climbing after the first pitch is less than great and your options to rap are sketchy at best. Worth the hassel though, very fun movement. Sep 20, 2007

My partner and I climbed this route a couple of weeks ago. What a nice climb until you get to the top of the first pitch. We took a good look at the cable slung boulder and decided against using it to rap. We didn't want to trust our lives to what appears to be a completely detached boulder supported by a helmet sized chockstone. We climbed to the top and downclimbed as for Cussin' Crack, Jackson's Wall, etc. Once we found the correct trail, it wasn't too bad. Any chance of relocating the cable? Sep 15, 2006

This is an excellent and sustained pitch. For me, the crux is at the start: insecure flared cracks and slippery feet. Above, sustained crack climbing leads to the roof. There is a bomber yellow Alien placement in a crack on the right, just before you make the final move over the roof. Backstep with the left foot to the highest foothold, then stem the right foot on the lip of the roof, and it's over. Done this way, the roof feels like 5.7. I used doubles on #1 and #2 Camalots, and didn't place anything bigger than a #3 Camalot. A #4 Camalot will give you bomber pro below the roof, but I was happy with the yellow Alien a few moves higher. Jul 9, 2005

Watch out for the cable sling at the top of Bailey's Overhang. The boulder is completely detached! If someone large were to rap off that thing, it could pull. It is way scary! Dec 2, 2004

I agree with Larry on this one. The boulder at the top with the steel cable around it looks very very unsafe!!! The boulder is completely detached and looks like it could go if you had someone big enough rappeling on it. I'm not a big bolt person but for safety sake I think it would be a great idea if someone put in some bolts at the top of this route and removed the steel cable. I'm certain it would look better than the cable and be much more safe! Nov 22, 2004

Great Route, I am a beginner 5.8 climber and found the moves very easy. At the crux overhang, on the left is a solid ledge to stand on. Once you have your feet on the ledge its easy to pull over the roof, the hands are big jugs above the roof (on the right side of the crack). At the overhang I stuck in a #5 Friend that subsiquently walked to an open position as I turned the roof. Perhaps a really big hex would have been better? After that the climbing is very easy. The rap anchor is a very scary looking boulder with a steel cable around it. It looks completely detached? I would use something else to rap next time. A very awesome route! -Jason Shatek Oct 5, 2004

A 60m rope just makes it to the ground when rappelling from the steel cable that Paul mentions. Jul 20, 2004

At the top of Bailey's Overhang (after the crux) you can bail over to the north and you find a steel cable wrapped around the top of a huge boulder. One can rap from this down to the top of curving crack or maybe even to the ground with a long rope. It looks like the only thing holding this boulder up there is a human head sized chockstone at the bottom of it. It made me think twice about being attached to that boulder...maybe I am just paranoid...it is probably ok, but at some point it may rip loose...that would be very bad. Sep 2, 2003

You can protect this climb pretty well without wide gear, but with a 4.5 camalot, it looked like I could have had gear overhead almost anywhere. I [did] the route "backwards" apparently, with my back to the left and feet to the right and it still felt like 5.8, so I think either way is do-able.The route seemed like a 2-star route, and maybe 3-star if you keep going and 'finish' on P2 of Coffin Crack (5.10 handcrack-to-fistcrack through a roof) May 19, 2003

At the crux, stay close in the crack, and face the opposite block. I used a small seam hold high and placed right foot on solid, high placement, and stepped up on it. Chalk on the foot placement is a dead giveaway. But you must step up high. A bit awkward and good exposed at this crux. I was too far right when I did this last year, no foot placement there. Hug the crack and look to place that right foot about knee height. This is a pretty cool little corner to turn. Aug 9, 2002

I agree that the "crux" isn't particularly strenuous- in fact I strained more on the first few moves off the ground. Just squeeze it a little and recall the womb. :) It also looked to me like a good call to skip the upper pitches, so we did- there is now a beefy fixed cable with a rap link just above and left of the end of the first pitch on the left side of a large ledge- can easily reach the ground from there with a 60m, and of course the anchor above curving crack. Enjoy. Jun 2, 2002

I love this route also. The overhang is NOT strenuous. It's almost no hands if you do it as a chimney. Back to the right, feet on the left on good holds. Move up and out. Turn around at the top. A couple big cams are useful but not necessary as another poster mentioned. Last time I did it (Spring 2001) there were slings up and left from the top of the first pitch. These did not look permanent. Ivan Rezucha Sep 5, 2001

Ditto for sure on this one. The key to the crux is getting that right foot in a small oblong pocket. I was gripped a bit until I found that baby. A sweet 5.8 do the rappel to chains above Curving Crack. 4 slings and ring are permanent now. Aug 13, 2001

I am going to agree with s.kimball on the rating: 10+. I think it is my favorite 5.10 sport route in the canyon. Jun 21, 2017

There are 2 sets of anchors that you can rap to from the top of this route - the anchors to the climbers right are slightly lower and we hit the ends of our 70 m rope. If using a 60m, I would aim for the other set. Jul 28, 2012

A #2 Helium friend didn't fit into the suggested gear placement, but a green C4 works great. No need for any other gear except quickdraws of course.... We had tons of rope left rapping with our 70m. Seems like a 60m will reach (4th class down-climb if not). Sep 16, 2011

Thanks, gentlemen, for adding modern rap anchors above Baileys. I broke the thin, undercling flake out right from the crux. I would have to call it harder 5.10 now. Jul 8, 2011

Some fun climbing on a nice slab of rock. Strangely bolted -- typical Boulder Canyon always-on-toprope style for the middle section, with a random runout or two at the start and finish. My 60m rope didn't get me all the way back to the anchor on Bailey's overhang. I came up about 5' short. I ended up on a ledge that I was comfortable down-soloing the very easy, and not exposed moves to the anchor, but be careful. Strangely, all 60s are not the same length. Don't assume yours will reach. Jun 25, 2011

Nice route. It adds some spice to Bailey's Overhang for the upper section. You can either rap from the anchors (2 raps to ground with one 60-m rope) or climb to the top of the formation and scramble down. This second option makes for a nice summit. Some may think Beetle Bailey is over-bolted, but the clips are well placed and the climbing is clean. I give it a 5.10b/c. Aug 30, 2009

Just looked in Rossiter's 1999 guidebook. I think we climbed the route as he describes it. D'Antonio's vague description may not disagree with Rossiter's. I interpret Bubb's and Lefkoff's path as going up the obvious crack above the right-hand tree, which is to the right of the way we went -- at least (maybe) until the hand/fist crack through the overhang/bulge near the top. Jul 10, 2013

Today, I led the 5.7 first pitch just right of the wide crack, then belayed at the right-hand tree. Then I led leftish up the middle of a short, blank face; made an unprotected step left; moved up a short, shallow crack; then hand-traversed to the right along the upper horizontal (heavily lichened and exciting, 5.9+). Then I climbed straight up a hand/fist crack through a overhang/bulge (5.9+) and up the right side of the pinnacle's summit block. If you instead do the handcrack, flare, gully, etc., straight up from the right-hand tree to the bulge crack, you will miss most of the best action. Ryan Watts led the third pitch up to the scramble-off. Jul 10, 2013

Strappo and I climbed this handcrack/flare last fall. It's strenuous right at the top and it would help to have taped. Protection adequate. May 8, 2004

Dirty, discontinuous, and a few nice sections. But not enough to make a nice route of it. Aug 11, 2012

Routes right of The Big Splash= from a high ledge a seam up to a hand crack is "Flaming Dog Poo" 5.10ish? (hard start) further right is a nice overhang to dihedral that I cleaned and tried a couple times, then abandoned because somebody else put twelve bolts on the thing. Oct 6, 2008

Nice effort, you guys. On May 12, Strappo flawlessly led pitch one and styled through the crux high step on pitch two, which I dogged on lead. 10b for the first pitch, 10a for the second? Strappo and I both commented that this west-facing wall holds tremendous opportunity for new routes, once it begins to clean up with traffic. May 13, 2007

There is a now mixed 5.11 extension called "The Black Crack Matters." Fun movement with a slabby crux just above the first bolt. Two bolts and some small gear (0.3 - 0.5). Apparently, a black tricam, which I didn't have, protects the getting to the first bolt well. Jun 15, 2017

Awkward climbing after the horizontal crack. It turns into what feels like sport climbing, and although none of the moves are difficult, it can be a little tricky on the first go. Just like any route, once you figure out the beta it's a lot easier. Apr 6, 2017

All the moves on this route are 5.9 at the hardest. However I'll admit that on an onsight attempt, it feels much more like solid 5.10, simply because the beta is somewhat difficult to figure out and the steepness of the route starts the pump clock and doesn't let up until the chains. So by the time you figure out the beta, you're way pumped and the jugs up top (and they ARE jugs) feel more like sloping crimpers. Jul 7, 2014

Sweet route in its current state. Somewhat slick like all of lower Castle Rock so make sure it's cool. Very solid RPs fit in below the pin, and you can place them from the shoulder scum or after clipping the pin if you're less of a fan of compression hardware. Just wish this route was longer at the 10a grade. Sep 1, 2013

Pretty old school 5.9+. Good gear. Jul 3, 2012

All I used was two #2s, 1 #3, long runner, and the anchor. Got owned on Gill Crack afterwards! Mar 30, 2012

Thanks to the local climber(s) who placed wood chips down and cleaned up the area. We were there this evening, and it was quite clean. This is a fun route. It helps to anticipate "old school" ratings when climbing at Castle Rock - not like many of the other BoCan ratings. May 27, 2011

I replaced the broken pin today. The old one had seen plenty of falls, and I wanted to get it out before the other eye cracked. There is a new angle in the same place. It's bomber, so fall away! When I took the pin out, I did evaluate whether it could just become a placement for clean gear. Without getting into the details, it is not a viable spot for anything but a pin, so I put a pin back in. A local climber (not me) has put a ton of work into cleaning up this area. He cleaned out all the broken glass he could get, and spread wood chips. This is a vast improvement, and makes a nice spot to hang out. Jun 2, 2010

A good climb, my first 5.9 gear lead. The pin is partly broken, not sure how many more falls its gonna hold. I was able to get a gray alien in to protect the crux. Watch out for the sharp edge that you pull over. Once you finish the climb better to pull the rope through your gear to avoid unnecessary wear on your rope. Cleaning will be harder but, I managed to do it so you can too. Apr 29, 2009

Definitely a 5.9+ move in there getting from the fist crack to the left-leaning crack and slab! Different ways to do it - without giving it away straight in jamming not necessarily the best option. Also, fixed nut between this and the pin when I did it (seems really solid), but the eye of the pin is cracked. Can protect above it with a number 1 Camalot (or even higher with a 0.75 which I had to do as I looked at the #1 on the ground). Would recommend due to the fact that if the pin cracks through and the fixed nut pulls when your rocking right on the final moves you could conceivably ground out. Nov 11, 2008

Black Crack's 5.9 rating might be a relic from the past when it was shorter, instead of grade inflation. Anchor locations have changed since the seventies. Guidebook authors don't seem to have noticed. Black Crack used to end at a bolt, just before the crux head-scum. An empty hole is still visible. Steeper and harder than the last pitch of Outer Space on the Bastille. Sep 12, 2008

Pretty stiff for a 5.9. I found the Yellow Spur and the first pitch of Tagger to be much easier than this. Though I agree that none of the moves are harder than 5.9, it threw me off because it was overhanging, and I wore myself out trying to get on to the face from the top of Gill Crack. The pin is good. I took a whipper on it while trying to get over the little corner at the top there. May 20, 2006

This was a cool climb and my first 5.9 lead. The gear was all good although I did crap my pants a little. A #3 Camalot fits perfectly in the vertical crack a few feet above the end of Gill Crack. May 12, 2004

This route only has one star, but I think it deserves a higher rating. The crux for me was pulling out of the first crack and onto the face, before pulling over to the chains. Just look out left on the slab/face, because there are some feet, and rock on over to a good stance under the pin. I'd suggest slinging the pin too, as the eyehole definitely appears cracked. Every bit as fun as Curving Crack. JGH Jul 18, 2002

By the time I pulled my right wrist out of the green pigeon shit, both deeply embedded in Black Crack's horizontal fist crack, I was starting to get a little shakey. But when I had to stem a few moves off of the 5.12 Gill Crack then make a head scum, I knew this was a pretty hard 5.9. S.Kimball. Jun 23, 2002

Holy smokes, this thing is thin. Sep 24, 2017

Perhaps I am being picky, but if my memory serves me correctly, Skip led this route in 1982 not 1983. I guess I will have to dig up my old "Climbing" magazines in my storage & see if this info exists. As for the climb, it feels like .12a on a top rope. I have not led it. Apr 17, 2015

(I'm the AC above...forgot to entire my name.) Glad to hear the agreement re: Close To The Edge...it certainly felt like hard 12 to me...heck, it may as well have been 5.14. :-) If I remember correctly, the best hold on the route sits near the 2nd bolt, and the 3rd definitely seems like it would be the harder clip of the two...of course, I didn't lead it so... Also, the only fixed gear in Boot Lead now (again, if memory serves) is a fairly abused, small hex, well above the first (and harder) crux. Still, I'm sure its a welcome clip once there, for those bold enough to lead this route. Jul 25, 2002

Close To The Edge, the bolted line immediately to the left of this route, is rated a mere letter grade harder (12 a/b), but...in my humble opinion...is a whole 'nuther ball o' wax. I was able to toprope, sans falls (baaaarely), Boot Lead, but was completely shut down on Close To The Edge. Moving off the good feet into the blank section seemed essentially free from the burdens of any hand holds whatsoever...Very, very balancy stuff, both of these climbs, but at least Boot Lead has a hold or two here and there! I enjoyed TRing Boot Lead very much - the lead would be thrilling enough to watch. I can't imagine the lead myself, with the undercling clogged with an alien. Wear your stickiest rubber, and don't do it on a hot day... (I wonder if Skip did it barefoot ?!? ;-) Jul 23, 2002

First freed on lead by Skip Guerin and Chip Ruckgaber. There actually is a TCU placement to "protect" the crux, but it takes up a good undercling hold and makes the move a bit harder. Also, the story I've heard is when first led a hammer was used to fix gear (a pin and a head) that has since been removed. It would be easy enough to ask Chip if this is true. A better top rope. Apr 5, 2002

I am by no means an experienced OW climber but didn't think this was too bad. My slim 5'6" 130 lb frame probably helped. Protected the initial entry moves with a #1 above the bolt and went right side in. Once you're in it, use pretty straitforward squeeze chimney technique with a handful of good holds to ease the difficulty. The big key for me was to turn around so my left side is in and rerack on my right side at the second little bulge. Got creative with switching gear from left side to right side. Rack (c4s): 0.5, 1, 2x 2, 4, 5, 6, 2 slings for the top, 1 quickdraw - felt very safe. Tie your knot long for maximum squeezing! Oct 29, 2017

This crack was a gruntfest, I severely underestimated it. If you're a masochistic 5.9/5.10 offwidth climber, you'll love this thing. Establishing yourself into the chimney is the crux of this pitch, but made easier by facing right side in with a slammer hand jam, eventually turning left side in for most of the remainder of the climb (best to take off your helmet or it will get stuck, and obviously hang your gear OUT OF THE WAY OF YOUR ASS). Not going to lie, this route spanked me. Struggled at the crux, groveled up the chimney, made a mistake not to wear knee pads, and walked away with my tail between my legs. I'll be back for a redpoint after my knees, elbows, and ego are healed. I placed a #.3 above the bolt, a #4 low, two #5s, #6, #4.5, #4, and a #2. The gear is all straightforward, but make sure you have good offwidth technique - I thought I did, but this route was a serious reality check. Oct 14, 2017

Did this as a long-anticipated and really fun onsight yesterday. This is one of the best and steepest offwidths/squeeze chimneys I have done in the Boulder area. A few things to note to make your climb more enjoyable: getting into the crack wasn't bad with 6' height and +1 ape, but my slightly shorter friends found the moves into the initial jams quite challenging. Right side in felt like the way to go for the 1st two bulges, but I could see going left side in if you wanted to skip all of the good edges inside the crack. I highly recommend not wearing a shoulder sling due to the amount of full-immersion tunneling involved. The crux for me was moving the 5 and 6 the %@$# out of the way so I could make upward progress. I would recommend singles from fingers to 5 or 6 for this route, depending on how comfortable you are running it out on 5.8 #6 offwidth. Rack everything on the left hip for the first 2/3 of the route, then either continue right side in or re-rack on the right hip to do the last bulge left side in. Jul 23, 2015

Overheard on this route today (and no, it wasn't me): Leader (just through the crux, hangover kicking in): "This was a REALLY bad idea." Belayer/girlfriend: "If you puke on me, I'm dumping you!" ...ten feet higher, he puked...luckily missing his belayer. Classic! Oct 26, 2013

Slim, the button head was replaced with a modern bolt when they did the Tuesday night OW, as I think was stated above. Thanks goodness for that, I'd be pretty F'ed right now if it wasn't I would think. Apr 12, 2010

Jason, is the bolt still a really, old, crappy one? Maybe a button head or something? If so, yikes! Apr 12, 2010

This thing is brutal! Tried to lead it yesterday and was thouroughly humbled. I lobbed out onto the bolt at first (which I used a 48" sling on, oops!), pinching my junk between my harness and my leg. I was at the point where you get the first good jamb, but I couldn't get it set well enough to get pro in, pretty good distance. I was in great pain at that point so I came down. I went back up and got to the same point, threw in a crap #1 sloppily and hung, then placed a green/yellow hybrid and replaced the #1 with a truck #2. I then proceeded to lob out about 3 more times as I worked above the cam. I came down again as I was in great pain, my friend todd went up next. He lobbed out at least 3 times trying to get up past the roof only to admit defeat (he's been onsighting 11+ sport lately and working 12s on TR, generaly climbing 10-11 trad). We had another member to our team, so he went up to give it a try, suffering the same fate, lobbing out probly 3 or 4 times. I gave it another go lobbing out 2 more times, finally giving up and cleaning the gear. For those of you like us who have to bail, I recommend setting a knot chock flicker knot in the juggy flake below the bolt, then you can un-clip the bolt and lower to the ground off the knot. I cliped some cord and extra runners into the loop above the knot to assist in retrieving it. Apr 11, 2010

First Ascent: Royal Robbins and PAT AMENT, 1964. I remember a time when this really felt 5.9+. We were all better at squeeze chimneys before cams because the arm bar was often the best pro on the rack. Sep 10, 2009

Traversing left to the anchor on Coffin Crack avoids a final bulge that is worth climbing. It is a few more OW moves over this bulge (a #5 C4 protected it well), and was a good finish to the route. A TR anchor can be built in the crack with gear in the 1"-3" range. It does add a bit of hassle when you are ready to clean the anchor, but the Coffin Crack anchor is only about 6' away. You can swing over to the CC anchor, rethread your rope through that, and then "lead" back out to get the gear anchor from By Gully. As others have said, this route took me a few tries to lead, but taught me a lot about OW along the way. Highly recommended. Regarding Left or Right side in--I've tried both and found Left side in to be a little easier, but the difference is minor. A bolt has been added to the sling anchor at the top of Coffin Crack, so it's a much better rap station now. Aug 26, 2009

I once took a huge fall onto that quarter inch bolt. I somehow just got spat out of the thing! Oct 17, 2008

Right side in, I found plenty of good holds on the sidewall to help, and some solid handjams. There's still plenty of chicken winging. Josh L. replaced the bolt last night during our Tuesday night offwidth assault meeting. Oct 15, 2008

A single set from #1 to #6 C4, with possibly two #4s, will protect this route nicely. Took me several attempts to get a redpoint on this one, but I learned a lot about offwidth climbing in the process. Yeah, it's a bit harder than a 5.10 OW, that's why it's rated 5.9+! Jul 29, 2007

I thought this thing was way harder than Coffin Crack. We actually warmed up on the other one, and although I probably looked as equally pathetic on both routes, this one gave me relatively less grief. The moves from the face into the OW were the business to me. Next step, red point! Oct 8, 2006

Those "5.9+" moves to get into the darn thing sure felt hard to me. I thought it was harder than Coffin Crack, to the left, which gets 10b. I did do this climb left-side in. Above comment suggests that's wrong, but it seemed best to me- maybe it wasn't right? Also, I placed my #4 Camalot low (left of the bolt) and ended up runout above. Jun 5, 2006

The first time I tried this was left side in and I got 'thrashed'. The second time up a fist jam after the bolt allowed me to stuff my right shoulder in and after a bit of sissy kicking the rest of the route was dispatched with a minimal donation of epidermal tissue. Two stars for sure. Jul 30, 2005

I wonder why it's so rarely climbed? Fun route, I plan to redpoint it once I have healed. Jul 6, 2004

Way impressive that Joe (in the photo) is leading this thing without knee pads! Full body armor recommended. Good warm up for Coffin Crack! Apr 9, 2004

Good technique goes a long way on this one, so lack of technique will earn you a thrashing. One reality about seconding this is that if you slide out of the slot you can't get back in and have to be lowered to the ground. This climb belongs in Yosemite, or is at least good training for nasty Yosemite wide cracks. Apr 9, 2004

A very worthwhile but, unfortunately, overlooked route. Anyone who thinks they are solid on 5.9 should go and give this route a try. Apr 8, 2004

Replaced the tat today with Randy F. It was really deteriorated! A 60 meter rope does reach. A good, little, exposed crack. Aug 8, 2015

In May 1968, I was in a Colorado Mtn Club Intermediate Mountaineering class. Mike Beringer led this on aid, using pitons. George Ripley and I followed. We encountered an owl standing/sitting on the spacious ledge atop the crack; then we did another pitch to the summit. I remember my first experience of the fragrance of granite. In '82, I followed Mike Bearzi up it (no aid, no owl). Jan 3, 2015

youtube.com/watch?v=07LTiav… Jul 20, 2012

youtube.com/watch?v=dSI6xvv… Cage Free and Free Range. Oct 7, 2011

Johnny Goicoechea has the first ascent, Brian Capps does not. May 21, 2010

This is a very cool line. I have not stuck the toss yet but man I just love this sort of all or nothing dynamic movement!!! It's a must try or DO!!!! Aug 22, 2009

You tha man, C! Will be gettin' on this soon. Apr 30, 2016

I removed the 2nd pin (#3 angle). It was loose and damaged. I did not replace it as it is not needed...plenty of gear (small cams). I also removed the first pin (#1 angle). It was damaged as well but not as bad as the second pin. I replaced it with a brand new one. Now it's a little safer and solid for some whippin' and such. Jun 21, 2014

Just got back from a rainy day aid practice session and this route was perfect. Great gear, and totally dry as opposed to the A2 roof crack next door. Sep 12, 2012

Curious where people think the 5.9, let alone 5.9+, part is. The chimney? I found the chimney to be full of features and ledges for feet. It seemed like a typical Vedauwoo 5.7 for this part, and I expected the top to be harder, but instead found it to be quite tame. To clarify, I'm not trying to say anything about the Vedauwoo vs. BoCan grades, just that the Voo has quite a few granite squeeze chimneys to compare it to. May 25, 2015

For maximum value, clip the bolt (it was a rusty spinner but replaced in recent years) and climb into the thin crack without climbing the chimney to the left. 5.9 plus, hmm, about 10 letter grades.... Oct 5, 2012

You can get good stoppers up to about a #8 outside of the chimney on the left. A very small RP comes first, but after that it's not "small." The route can also be made more interesting by forcing it left and continuing rather than going up to the anchors on Tongo. After finishing the wide part, step up and left to a roof with a crack horizontal behind it- place a .75" cam and step over the roof, then slightly left again to join the face above. Continue upwards to 2 very thin parallel cracks with some rock jammed between. Place a very large stopper, then a small one (#5 BD) then step up and pull up and left over to the ramp of Jackson's Wall. Be careful of these "trapped" stones- the top one, about the size of your head, is somewhat loose. Belay on good gear and continue as for Cussin' Crack. Cussin' can be made more interesting by climbing the hand and fist crack through the roof 1/2 way up. (5.9+?) May 17, 2006

Adventurous little doo-hah. With much effort, I got 2 or 3 good RPs in a row in the flake exiting the chimney. A solid #7 stopper below backs up the whole mess. kind of fun moves for the first 30 feet, and then wander your way up on jugs and traverse to the Tongo second anchors. I don't think this one gets climbed much. You don't need anything bigger than a .75 Camalot for the route. Aug 29, 2005

There is about 40' of easy (5.0) traversing without tons of pro to get over to the Tongo anchors once done with the crux, so make sure the 2nd is down with that. Also as a leader you can't see the anchors until you are right at them, or from the ground, so check the topo showing where the anchors are carefully. I thought it was a fun route, solid rock and unusual climbing! May 1, 2003

Sharp crimps on a short but sweet boulder. Angle 1: youtu.be/f6Db3NV0vu8 Angle 2: youtu.be/bB-gjbbqSgg Nov 10, 2017

I will be back for this with some cooler weather, felt like I had butter on my hands, ha. Aug 1, 2016

I seriously doubt Will ever graded it at all tcam ... if you asked him back when he did it, he probably would have said "I don't know, V4?" ... bwahahaha. Don't worry, all is still right in the world. Feb 18, 2010

Will FA'd something that was soft? Feb 18, 2010

FA: Will Lemaire, to give full credit. Jan 22, 2010

Fun line... soft for V8 but it's still a nice line. Jun 12, 2009

God save the boulderer who tries to tackle Citadel in the summer. Looks lowball but climbs really well. Worth a stop. Jan 20, 2008

Yes, it's called The Citadel - Will L., FA. Oct 7, 2005

Three stars seems a bit much, but it's a fun boulder. Does the V5 go straight out over the bulge? If so, it seemed hard, and a back breaker (there's a lumpy boulder in the fall area, making me back off without a spotter). I couldn't get my butt off the ground on the V8. Feet are an issue at the beginning of both. Aug 8, 2005

I believe the name is 'The Citadel'. Jul 31, 2005

Super sharp. Do this route! Apr 7, 2017

Short but fun. It felt more like 12c to me and took a few burns to send. I thought the real trick of the route was getting past the 1st bolt!!! The rest seemed more straightforward to me... nice on a cool, winter day. Jan 29, 2010

Kicked my ass the first time. Fun climb. Prod. Mar 31, 2012

FA: 1964!!!! Back when...the Beatles showed us greasers how to wear our hair proper. Sep 10, 2009

Felt sane with only one #4 camalot, even for a lost sport climber. Jun 17, 2009

I was able to do a fist jam to get into the offwidth (and I hate fist jams). Then a few less than happily secure offwidth type moves (but with a good foothold) and you get to jugs again. Short in the business, but a good testpiece. Oct 15, 2008

Felt like doing a freestyle swim...there are some really key heel-toe cams that allowed me to reach that slopey rail for the mantle. Big ups to Chuck for leading that with 3 pieces. Oct 8, 2006

The first pitch felt like 5.10 on big moves with odd "windmill" cross-over moves. The O.W. below is hiding a few sidepulls that facilitate crossing a right to the sloper on the left, then match and put the left hand to the jug on the right. Secure and not too hard. The second pitch of this route is really fun and cool. If you beat the first pitch, keep going up for a second battle at the handcrack through the roof (5.10). You can get to just below the P2 roof with a single 60m line. Protect with Friends from 2-3.5" 4" piece optional, where it will be easier anyway. May 19, 2003

Face climbing through the crux seemed harder than 10b to me. If you have really huge hands, you can get a fist jam at the crux. However I have larger than average hands, and I couldn't get the jam. Oct 1, 2002

I left two quickdraws at the top of this route on the chains last week. If someone picks them up I would love to get them back. I forgot them because my partner fell and got hurt. Thanks, returning gear is good karma! Nov 24, 2009

Kudos to JGH for a clean ascent of Comeback Crack and for his insightful comments that really bring the route alive. "JGH" hits the nail on the head with "Comeback Crack is a great route". Keep the posts flowing JGH, I know I'll be "comin' back" for a look soon. Jul 14, 2003

This is a great route. The tough section down low has great finger locks and after a few moves the feet get better. Pulling the bulge is reminiscent of boulder problems you might find at the Spot. JGH Jul 9, 2003

Was up here on Thursday and again today, and there is a rope fixed. If this is yours, please retrieve it. NOW, some fixed line etiquette - on Thursday, part of the line was hanging (appeared to be fixed) from the top anchor, and the latter half was fixed on the lower anchor. I hiked around and threw my line off the top to run a toprope solo. The apparently "fixed" rope was held by a stopper knot which would have easily passed through the rings if someone weighted it from below. I was shocked and slipped that part of the line through, tossing it to the ground. So, the rope is still fixed at the bottom anchor, and I coiled the remainder behind the boulder at the bottom. For whoever's rope this is, please know that leaving a rope in such a precarious state is a big and dangerous disservice. While it's questionable to leave a rope hanging by the road in BoCan at all, leaving a rope fixed to the top of such a popular climb with nothing but a stopper knot is just unfair to the climbing community. Ropes that appear fixed should be fixed, period. Maybe it was late, maybe it was dark and you forgot to untie the stopper not. I don't know, but then please get back up there and clean up after yourself. I was there again today, Sunday, and the rope is still there, still fixed on the lower anchor, waiting for a retrieval. The climb is still as beautiful as ever! Oct 8, 2017

Buster Jesik: "It seems that the bottom bolt has been chopped?" Nope. Still there. There is a mess of old holes, presumably from bolt wars years ago. Maybe that's what you saw? May 31, 2017

It seems that the bottom bolt has been chopped? May 24, 2017

I didn't climb this route before the blocks fell out of the roof, but on my first climb of this, I felt that the roof on pitch two was almost as hard as the crux on pitch one (granted, in a very different style). I'd suggest 11b for the roof moves on pitch 2 now. If you're not comfortable pulling those moves with a #0.3 Camalot below your feet (assuming you extend it from its placement at the back of the roof), you would probably need to bring a #5 Camalot to protect the roof pod now. Sep 22, 2016

Indeed, the chockstone under the roof is no more. This deserves a mention on such a historical and classic line. While not a huge deal, my guess is that people will find pulling the roof a touch harder now. Sep 17, 2016

The blocks under the roof are gone now Pulling the funny move above the roof. . Apparently they were suddenly quite loose, and someone cleaned them out a few weeks ago. The blocks provided a few jugs that made getting around the roof pretty straightforward. I wouldn't say it's harder now, but it is a little less straightforward. For what it's worth, I'm 6'5" and could see how it might be harder for short people now. The resulting pod under the roof is a little tricky to protect. There is a pinch that would take a #0.75 Camalot (or probably better, a black Metolius), but if it walks at all, it will be useless quickly. I found a good yellow Alien on the right side of the dihedral, under the roof, in the crack that heads right to become Nobody's Home. Jul 16, 2016

Here's to hoping...was anyone able to wiggle a #1 BD cam halfway up the second pitch of Country Club? We tried as best we could but got weathered and left it there. Date was May 27th (last week) in the late afternoon. Looks like someone grabbed it when we went back to work it out. Would LOVE it if someone did. 6 pack for reward?! :) Jun 1, 2015

Found a pair of fancy car keys at the base of Country Club today. Give a shout if they are yours. Nov 2, 2014

Best crack I've been on in the radbro. I, for one, liked the opening move.... But the jams are where it's at. So comfy. Great link and lowers to the ground with an 80. Sep 11, 2014

My 60m makes it down to the first AF anchor with none to spare. Tie knots. Oct 6, 2011

Dropped one of my Evolv Talons at the base and left it last night, I went back to get it but it was gone. If you found it, I'd really like it back. It was brand new! noah.gostout@gmail.com Aug 9, 2011

Good climb to practice aid on days like today. There were only a few teams of people waiting to free CCC in the foot of snow while I struggled up it. Plus, your belayer can stay toasty in the car. Feb 8, 2010

I can't wait to do this line...Luke H. Let's hook this line up!!!! Sep 3, 2009

Nice climb, but it looks like a junkyard with ~20 bolt studs and ~12 pins. Jul 30, 2008

A 60m will make it in one pitch as well. Just leaves you a bit short on the raps. A 70 would be ideal cause then you can rap to the first pitch anchors of A.F. pump fest in one long one for sure. Edit*** We climbed this again yesterday with one 70m. Rappelling from the top of P.2 the knots in our rope were only about 8 ft down and to the right of the anchors top of P1 for athletes feet. I advise a 70 or 2-60s to avoid any big swings. FYI- There is now a fixed red TCU top of the 2nd pitch crux. It walked to far back and over cammed too much to get out. It's in a great spot though just before the thank god jug. Clip it and keep moving. :) :) May 6, 2008

A 70m rope makes it in one pitch with about 25ft of rope left. Doing it in one pitch I used my whole rack, which was triples of everything Camalot 0.5 - 3 and a few smaller cams. Amazing pitch! May 5, 2008

I know a lot of people would frown on this but, this climb is a great place to practice aid climbing (clean of course), along with the aid roof a little farther west on Castle Rock. If you're rusty and headed for a big wall or trying to learn, taking laps on this is great fun. Side note: Try to climb this when it is not conducive to free climbing, i.e. cold, night, early am, winter or the like. Be mindful, if aid climbing, that this is a very popular and quality free line and chocking it up for hours aiding would be less than polite. Sep 20, 2007

My ONLY complaint with this route is that the first (and only) bolt is in such an awkward position--ok, maybe not so awkward if you're 5'7" or more, but let me tell you, when you're 5'4", it's a SCARY first bolt... Otherwise, ditto on all raves above. Sep 17, 2007

Can be done in one pitch and what a great pitch, but it leaves the second in a scary situation for the opening face moves due to rope stretch. And nobody should miss out on that awesome face climbing. Jun 27, 2007

A 60m rope will not reach the anchor on P1 of Athlete's Feat! I was about 5 feet short, dangling in the air. I could not find a placement for the #4 even though I brought it. I had a #3 above the roof, but one or two #2s would have been enough. Sep 6, 2006

Primo booty. Oct 21, 2004

Got on CCC the other day (Oct 17) and found two cams (#1 & #2) in the crack, climbers left of the second pitch just above the picth one belay. I think someone was using them as directionals for the second but I am not sure. Contact me if you are the owner at arod825@hotmail.com. Oct 21, 2004

I think the first bolt holds the crux. The next move felt much easier for me. That added bolt was ridiculous! The middle part of this climb is some of the best moderate, crack climbing in the canyon! May 27, 2003

Someone added a new bolt between the second bolt and the crack. This bolt was not needed for a safe free or aid ascent. We promptly removed the bolt and the hanger. It is a self drilling bolt and the sleeve is still in the rock. If any one knows how to remove the sleeve WITHOUT damaging the rock further, email me or someone to do so. Epoxy and a little rock dust should minimize what is already a swiss cheese rock. May 27, 2003

I found the only real rest on the second pitch came after the roof, where I was able to slide my whole right leg into the wide crack, flexed and torqued until solid and I was able to hang quite comfortably sans meathooks (what my arms felt like after the roof). I wouldn't call it a "knee lock", more of an off width jam. I got it all back but it didn't really matter a hoot, the last 15' still kicked my ass. Sep 29, 2002

It too finally got on this climb this weekend. All I can say is "tough climb" and that I will be sore for days. I agree with that above comments that you can do without the #4, no reason to lug that thing up there. I'm hoping to figure out some sort of rest in the section of wide crack just past the roof (knee lock???), otherwise I have know idea how I could do it continuously, way to pumped for the thin fingers, difficult feet section (the real crux of the route to me). Sep 29, 2002

After 3 or 4 trips up to Castle Rock in the last year, I was finally able to get on this route... no aid climbers this morning! The face climbing at the start is desperate, though possibly slightly easier than the Athlete's Feet mantle... I'm not sure how shorter people are able to do the move past the 2nd bolt. The crack pitch is pumpy, though look for a tricky no-hands rest on the upper part. From the anchors at the top you can TR the excellent Englishman's Home (11c- very thin looking gear) which takes the Athlete's Feet start straight up through a series of lieback corners to the flake system left of CCC, joining that route at the roof. Aug 20, 2002

I found that the best way to protect the second is to clip a 0.75 cam up and left of the belay or a red/yellow Alien just left of the belay to minimize the pendulum (the traversing face moves at the end are the scariest moves on the whole climb). You don't need anything larger than a #3 cam although there are places to put big pieces. Not many nut placements, but there are a few that are completely bomber. There are also a few hex placements that are definitely more bomber than the cams that would go in their place. When I do it as one pitch: set of stoppers, few hexes, 2 x red Aliens, 2 x yellow Aliens, 2 x (#0.75, 1, 2, 3) Camalots, plenty of draws for the pins/nuts/hexes, and a double length to equalize the bolts with a runner to reduce drag. This is a good training route as most of the falls are safe (except the start - safe at A0) and (if you are proficient at placing good pro) all the gear is bomber. Aug 19, 2002

What a fun/scary lead. Scary - because I lack ability, strength, etc. Fun - because the route takes pro so well. The original comment on the route says to take a #4 Camalot. Somone else said you only need a #2 and smaller. I found a #3 Camalot protected the roof, and then right after you move left from the roof, and #2 Camalot helped calm my mind. As the crack gets thin, the green, yellow, and red Alien were perfect. Better leaders probably wouldn't see the need to place all three pieces throughout this thin section. Once you get to the top of the crack, the route moves right. Before moving up and right, I placed a #1 Camalot as a passive piece to protect the second from a pendulum after he cleaned the Aliens at the fingers crux. Hopefully, this will help others in deciding what pro to take. Aug 19, 2002

I found it more enjoyable to climb as one pitch, however, it's easier for the second to impale their backside on a fall from the opening moves due to the rope stretch. The thin section at the top is much easier without tape. Jul 10, 2002

Bill Wright was kind enough to drag me up this route this morning. What an absolute classic. Really enjoyable, both from a climbing perspective and from a historical perspective. It is not everyday that you can climb a route mentioned in both Pat Ament and Royal Robbins' biography. The 5.11 finger/off hand crack (crux second pitch) is a humbling experience... It is unbelievable Derek Hersey soloed this... I died three times before I reached the saving jug... What a great morning... WT Jul 1, 2002

I love this route. I've done it nine times and still no redpoint of the upper pitch. Only once have I had another party on the route at the same time. If you want this route to yourself get on it early on a weekday morning. Of the nine times I've done this route, six of them were before work. This is the time to climb it anyway since you want the first pitch cool and in the shade. Others should definitely share the rock, but I think topropers and (clean) aid climbers have a right to climb this route as well. Heck, the Salathe Wall on El Cap is a free climb. Should all aid climbers be barred from climbing it? Common courtesy should be exercised by all involved. Maybe the aid climbers can offer to let the free climbers by after the first pitch? Jun 17, 2002

RE/raps: a 60m will get you to the bolt anchor atop P1, and the leader can even lower down and belay the second from here, if desired (this will require exciting swinging shenanigans for both the leader and the follower). Aug 4, 2001

A few thoughts. 1) You can get by with, at most, one #2 Camalot and nothing larger. I find this route protects well with plenty of Camalots between 0.5 and #1, some screamers for the pins and a few (very few) nuts and aliens. 2) Share the rock! I've seen many people tie up the route for half a day or more while pracicing aid. If must practice aid here, try going on off hours. 3) You can rap the route with one rope by swinging over to the anchors atop the second pitch of Athlete's feet. Tom Isaacson Jul 31, 2001

Easy, there - Mr. A.C.! Personally, I enjoy SL's comments - his sense of history adds a hell of a lot of value and interesting reading to this site. Our local climbing history is incredibly interesting and invaluable and needs to be passed along to the next generation. Keep up the good work, Steve - you are a definite asset (and I have commenced my search for Roger's graffiti in Eldo - excellent bit of trivia you mentioned previously...). May 25, 2001

The crux on this route is so gnarly. It makes the Viceroy extension feel like a flight of stairs. I'd like to think a foot hold broke, but deep down I know that's not true. Jan 21, 2016

I have tried this line and could do it with one hang, but I never went back to link it up. A fun line that I felt was 13c for sure. Aug 26, 2009

A couple months ago I watched Taylor Roy lead this route while placing gear. It was impressive. (I think he had previously red-pointed the route using the bolts). - Chad Aug 9, 2005

Slabio is arguable one of the best pitches in the country if not the world! Three stars for good position. Moffat rated it 14a. Tommy C. down rated it to 13c. The crux is probably six inches long. The crack leading up to the anchors is 12c/d. Aug 30, 2002

It was my understanding that Pat Adams bolted this but considered it an open project and Jerry did it when he was here to climb Just Do it. Pat's generosity is commendable. I think Peter's honesty is also commendable. Aug 28, 2002

The crux section takes small gear (<0.4 C4), and one of the best holds is also one of the better placements, so that was a bummer for me on lead as I couldn't crank off of it. But the liebacking and stemming is great fun. Come on, 5.9? More BC sandbaggin', I have no problem giving this a 5.10a for my on-sight. Sep 1, 2012

A great, delicate stemfest through a beautiful crack, then a jug rest before a small roof, what can I say? This thing brings out the footwork. May 6, 2011

"Curving Crack" is sooo good. What can you say... it's another great "Castle Rock" sandbag classic. Boulder Canyon, Co. Feb 1, 2010

Led this today, great and safe 5.9 I would definitely recommend this as there is plenty of gear to be placed making falling safe. I don't think this route is slick due to high traffic but rather due to the rock - actually adding to the character of this climb, it makes you think, starting with bigger jams, going to smearing with your feet and using the two walls of the dihedral. Climb this. Sep 27, 2009

Seemed same difficulty as Dmentia over on Happy Hour to me, so I said 10a, as that is what Dementia is thought to be. Rating might be influenced by doing the right exit at the roof, instead of left, and it continues to be hard there. Chains/bolts for anchor seemed fine. Excellent pitch, and definitely easier than Skunk Crack (less greasy). Aug 28, 2009

Good line but very stiff for the grade even seconding, as feet tend to slip off. More like 5.10a (UK E1 5b) it seemed to me, but I guess the 5.9 grade is "traditional". May 8, 2009

That's why I can't figure out why so many people like this climb. I think 2 stars at best, and that's in cool weather. Aug 7, 2008

If you smeared vaseline all over this route, I don't think it would make a difference. Aug 7, 2008

What? This is great 5.9 maybe 5.9+ climbing on very solid rock. The pro is great and as I recall, bomber. Its not friction-granite (but little is at Castle), so may feel a bit slick. There are 2 pretty damn good rest positions/gear placing if you stem out with your left foot. As you can belay from your car there is zero approach. The climb is short but sweet. 2+ stars (3 if it was longer). Oct 11, 2005

Did this route two weeks ago. My first 5.9 trad lead. I can sauce a 5.8+ but this thing was very tough for me. The protection wasn't super good but certainly adequate. The first section is a piece of cake, it gets interesting after the piton. The rock on this route is very slick and the foot holds suck! I wouldn't recommend this route for new 5.9 leaders! It felt like I was on my hands a lot with no real rests. Because of the approach I give it one star. Also, I believe the hangers at the top are on small bolts which aren't recommended for use anymore and one of them is loose. Nov 22, 2004

Great Climb - 3 Stars!!! Get there early on weekends - it get's busy and when we were climbing there were two other parties waiting. What's up with the grafitti around the base of Castle? It's in spanish and I have no idea what it means. Is it some kind of anti-climber political thing or just the work of complete moron with too much time on this hands? May 18, 2003

Another solid 5.9 that I recently discovered. I found the rock above the piton to be a little slick. It was difficult to smear/stem until I reached the overhang. Good climb though. Oct 3, 2002

Man, I was up there with my kids in the creek the other day and these guys were eyeing up curving crack..... i told them it's awesome and they decided to do it. The guy hung at the hand crack, hung on the stemming in many places and fell off the roof a couple times....then he almost made it over the roof but fell and pulled a yellow alien and a blue alien and fell probably 40 feet upside down and was saved by the fixed pin.Man, it was fuckin' scary fall but he was ok with a helmet on too. Make sure you get a good placement in that upper chalked up crack (easy to do) and extend it cuz turning the roof pulls that cam around a bit and probably walked it enuff to cause it to pull on that guy...... careful out there but climb hard. Aug 3, 2001

Went up and led this again a few days ago.....what a GREAT pitch. It's got it all, face climbing, perfect hands, liebacking, finger jams and wide stemming to a roof with some steep jug-hauling and a couple finger/hand jams to the chains....wooooohooooo....fun! Jul 9, 2001

At the end of the v-slot, on the ledge with the rope hanging from above, there is a very large loose block/wedge. It's right above the crack - and you have to step over it to continue up. That thing is going to go soon - it moved a few times while we were up there. Oct 26, 2016

I left my helmet at the top near the pine tree today. If you happen to have it, please pm me, your kindness will be greatly appreciated! Jul 31, 2016

As of today, the rappel tree still had a piece of webbing and a leaver-to-Beaver biner that was taped shut. Thanks! Also, the bolt on the first pitch is pretty new and definitely worth clipping. Finally, just as you finish the cussin' part of the second pitch (the V-slot with kneebars) and you reach a nice sitting ledge, there is a piece of old rope hanging down there. It looks like it got stuck in the crack above. Not good as your belay anchor in case you are tempted to stop there. Best option would be to continue climbing past it and up the sort of chimney slot above until you top out on easier rock. First time back on this route since about 1976 or so. Seems more polished. Jun 8, 2016

We did the descent off of Castle Rock this past Saturday with no problems. The tree that used to sport chains now has some new webbing with a leaver carabiner. I used tape to secure the gate for the rap. From the ground, I could spot the old bolt on pitch one...is there really a new one up there? Maybe the new just looks old from afar :) Oct 7, 2015

Ok, the descent used to be head north to a tree with chains and webbing for a rap. Got there today, and the tree had no chains or webbing on it. We found a tree nearby that had a rap station setup but was much more awkward. One of the climbers had a nasty tangle with a branch. What happened to the usual rap point? Haven't seen any discussion here or alternate descent recommendation. Jul 27, 2015

The bolt on the first pitch has been replaced and looks good. Jul 24, 2015

To the OP: this has ALWAYS been a little slick! It's a water runnel. May 15, 2013

Great climb with a truly "old school" adventure route feel! The right wall start is extremely spicy but fun; a #2 nut was my only pro until I gained the crack - big groundfall potential. Sep 3, 2012

Let me take a moment to add to the BS about this route: P1: instead of climbing the chimney or face immediately right of the chimney, climb directly below the overhang to the right of the chimney. Good holds and protection can be had this way. Small cams and/or nuts. A few moves lead to the last portion of the chimney from where a ledge will be reached. Don't clip that bolt... instead place a small cam to its right, and pull the moves onto the belay ledge. 90' 5.7 P2: don't bother moving the belay unless you really need to see your second. Instead, move west about 15 feet, and climb over easy terrain that leads to a ledge below the v-slot. The v-slot is very fun and easily protected without large cams. This leads to a perfect belay ledge. 100' 5.7 (really?) P3: climb up a weird chimney and belay, 50', 5.7. P4: easy terrain up to the summit, 5.2, 75'. Fun climbing, great position and a beautiful summit. Jul 13, 2012

Huh? This thing must've gotten a lot slippier since I climbed it back in the dark ages. Like Roger, it was one of my first leads, and thought it was much easier than the Bastille or Empor. The first time I did Jackson's Wall direct (I followed, didn't lead it), we used Cussin Crack for the downclimb, in the old blue Royal Robbins. Oh well, enough old fart crap. Nov 16, 2011

Loved this climb...it sure was unique. Then again, I tend to find chimneys fun. The "cruxy" (for someone 5'8") move at the end of P1, the quick crack above that, grunting up the V, and the rest of the climb that seemed to go on forever. Had a big smile by the end. Definitely worth it. Oct 24, 2011

I am ALSO a 5'3" woman, and it was very challenging to get past the bolt. After a few minutes of checking it out, I did the exact same thing. Went up right and traversed left. Very relieved when I hit the ledge. The rest of the climb was amazing but very polished. All much more challenging that anticipated - which I loved. Jul 24, 2011

Ok, so if you 5'3", as I am, leading the move past the bolt is quite challenging! After reading other people's comments, I realized as soon as I got there I wouldn't be able to go up just to the right of the bolt. I ended up going up fartther right, up a slot with a broken piton. It was awkward, but doable. Then had to traverse back left above the bolt, which was a little scary and exposed but actually not terribly hard. Has anybody else gone this way? Jul 18, 2011

When I started climbing, this was the first significant climb I ever led. It's really pretty safe and protectable. Mar 19, 2011

Not a lot of fun. The pitch up the V-slot is the only pitch worth doing (and perhaps the first 15 feet of the first pitch if you take the semi-unprotected direct start). The V-slot makes you sweat and think, but before long you are out of it and topping out on boring terrain. The first pitch is too ledgy; basically a series of easy bouldering problems. I don't know if my fears of decking were legitimate, but they were always in the back of my mind. Dec 12, 2008

I don't understand why this route is considered classic on so many lists. I soloed this route today and would have hated it if I had to deal with a rope and a bunch of cams, especially #4 Camalots, swinging around on my harness. Don't get me wrong, this isn't a bad line, I just don't think it deserves classic status. It doesn't feel very continuous with all the ledges and boulders, and even the second pitch you get tons of stem rests if you wanted them. Get on it and decide for yourself. Mar 5, 2006

I loved this climb... Well, you could call it a love/hate sorta thing. Three stars for several reasons: This was [definitely] a departure from the routes you are going to see at gym or your local sport crag. Nasty full body climbing for most of this route. Shows what was considered a good route before modern climbing shoes were around. I also have a special place in my heart for a route that is rated 5.7 but makes me think and sweat as much as this did. Great, safe route that still takes you out of your comfort zone. Oct 27, 2005

Old school grading... not for beginners who aren't very strong, placing gear from the greasy body smears and foot jams is exciting. I faced left side into the crack, right palm smearing on the right side of the dihedral. Reminds me of [Yosemite]. Jul 13, 2005

A Boulder Canyon classic and a good introduction to wide crack climbing. Here's how I like to do the climb: p1. 5.7, 80'. Climb the face right of the chimney. You can get in a nut and a small Alien down low, but you are soon in groundfall territory. The climbing isn't too hard (5.5), so stay with it until you can get in a good big cam below a chockstone at the top of the face. Continue up and traverse straight left to a ledge with an old bolt. You can back up the bolt with nuts and small cams. The move past the bolt can be done two ways. For me, the easiest is high right: climb up right of the bolt, step left onto a sloping ramp, and pull across onto your left foot. At 6'1", this felt about 5.6. The other way is low left: Continue left past the bolt, then crank straight up. This seems a lot harder. Belay on a big ledge just above this move. p2. 5.7, 70'. Move the belay to a higher ledge at the start of the V-slot. Climb the V-slot using knee-foot bars with the right leg (a kneepad on right knee is very helpful). Press down with the right palm and hop the left foot up the crack. Repeat several times and you're through the crux. The V-slot can be protected with small-to-medium cams and nuts; no need for a #4 Camalot. Belay on a good ledge at the top of the V-slot. p3. 5.7, 90'. More fun climbing on this pitch. Continue up to a corner and roof, pass it on the left, and cruise up to a good ledge about 30' below the summit. Belay here. Bring your partner up then unrope and scramble to the top. The descent is devious; pay careful attention to find the easiest way. From the top, head a little left and downclimb past a series of ledges, eventually reaching a tree with a chain and slings. You can rappel from here or continue left to a short steep downclimb that is easier than it looks. More moderate downclimbing leads to the trail. Jul 9, 2005

Personally, would not recommend for someone just breaking into 5.7. Jul 6, 2005

We climbed this yesterday (8-23-03) and thought it was a great climb. I lead the first pitch (via slab start) but instead of traversing up the ramp then back left to the mank bolt (which I guess is the 'official' route) I stepped across onto the face at the top of the slab and went straight up. Anyone know the name/rating of this variation? 5.7 maybe? I thought it made the lower portion of the climb much more interesting and way more challenging. The gear was OK, although stepping across and making the first move onto the face kind of scared the piss out of me (potential for an ugly fall). Aug 24, 2003

The crux for me was the traverse on the first pitch. I stand at 5'6" and could not reach any holds and not a lot for the feet either. Found this to be frustrating. Any advice would help?? My friend Tim Feaver is much taller and the move was much easier for him. The second pitch is all about the grunt factor and doing whatever it takes as long as you are moving forward but really does protect well so go crazy. Getting off the top is not all that bad even though it was in the dark and no prior experience. Aug 7, 2003

I recommend the boulder start. It was more fun than being in the chimney. I got two psychological nuts in the piton scar before making what turned out to be very easy slab moves to a comfortable shelf on the boulder. The crux to me was the tricky moves at the end of pitch one. On the traverse left, go up to the left of the bolt. Being 5 ft 7 in, I could just reach the handhold. I yarded on it with no feet and found a nice crack above. I threw a left heel up and was over. I think this is could be quite easy for a tall person, but it was a 5.8 to me. The move is all arms, almost no feet and not good protection. My partner, who is 5 ft 6 in, could not reach the hold and resorted to yarding on a sling I had left dangling down for her to yard on. We enjoyed the rest of the route. The v-slot is secure and protected. May 23, 2003

Rossiter calls this a real classic, and I agree. I made the traverse left into a very short 2nd pitch. I clipped the manky hanger, then cranked up on the parallel cracks to the right of this hanger using the piton scarred pockets with the left hand and a decent seam on top that I got the end of my finger tips in with the right. I believe this move/variation to be 8+ as there are no feet until you commit by pulling up and yarding the left foot up high onto a small bowl. My shorter partner could not reach the high seam and went left of the hanger. The V slot is smooth and awkward but no harder than 7. Fun route! Oct 11, 2002

First off, let me say that the downclimb is nothing. There's one section that is kindasorta exposed as you go down a slabby ramp section and then a single interesting downclimb that I would call 5.0 if it were any longer than 25 feet, but as is I call it fourth class. I've gone up and down it numrous times, and am in no way a superman trad climber who can do that kind of stuff with his eyes shut. The steep section has giant hand holds galore, and ledges, too. If you like you can find yourself a cave to crawl through or go over the giant boulder using the water hole on top as a ladder rung. Let me ask, if it were a ladder would you be more willing to downclimb it? Personally I think yes, and this is as easy if not easier than a ladder. You can smear! Oh, and the V-Slot is almost fourth class, if it weren't for the fall potential and the chimney and/or slab. The slippery section on the second pitch is the only thing that makes it 5.7, and I'd personally still call it 5.6. Like I said, I'm no superman trad climber. I've soloed cussin' crack, and only because I'm scared of gear, and gear just seemed to be a waste of time on this. Anyhoo, climb on! May 2, 2002

Odd route, isn't it? btw - upon retrospect, I had gear in the cracks off to the right with a long sling when I approached the bolt. In case it blew I wouldn't crator. It was interesting to remember that it was "safe", maybe I looked at it and said "at least it will hold a quickdraw;" otherwise I wouldn't have even clipped it ;-p. Sep 20, 2001

Clare: You were on the correct route, to the left of the bolt (I use the term "bolt" loosely when referring to this protection point). Sep 20, 2001

Led the first pitch of this today. Did the slab start to right of chimney: I thought it was fun (put in one pyschological nut), although a couple of years ago it haired me out. I could not, however, find the "proper" route for the traverse at the end of the first pitch. We ended up going a ways out onto the bench and doing a hard move to scramble up a small slot to the left of the skanky looking bolt on the face. Is the "real" route to the RIGHT of the bolt, up the cracks, the right one of which has a broken off piton? This seemed harder than 5.7! Help! Sep 19, 2001

Comments from the optimists club: lest anyone be turned off by the above comments (I almost was...) here's my take from yesterday's climb: Interesting chimney start and odd mantel/hand traverse at safe bolt. A crazy move - neat. Belay on super ledge looking up at impressive V-slot. 2nd pitch starts with an odd sized crux with a bomber #4 - safe/fun/odd!! Go up to the first break where two distinct shelfs appear - one being on the left of the crack and one to the right, right on the arete. Make a belay in the crack above and have a great seat on the arete with a perfect view of your second attacking the v-slot. From this wonderful belay, climb the last bit of good climbing up a steep corner then run it out to the summit. I love climbs that end on the summit, and climbs with history. If this was more sustained I could see a third star. Two stars - just right! The descent was not that bad - just pretend you're bushwacking in the Adirondacks and don't miss the rappel tree tucked away on the shelf to the right (as you look down the north face) - the one with the CHAIN around it - once the downclimb gets "serious". The key to this climb? Sunshine, the arete-seat-belay and good company... Sep 10, 2001

I did the route with a total beginner. The slab pitch was easy but run out(don't fall). The second pitch was a great dihederal although the v-slot was slick, it was just 1 move then a great long pitch with challenging moves. Definately worth a look, but remember it's old school 5.7. My partner thought it was a great route but told me to keep in mind that he didn't lead it. Remember to leave daylight for descent.Will Maercklein june 30, 00 Jul 1, 2001

Did this route on April 1st, 2001 with Dave Klein - the date seemed appropriate. This climb (pitch 2) definitely seemed... odd. First I felt sandbagged by the rating, but in retrospect, maybe its just a really weird climb, and 5.7 is as good a guess as any to what the rating should be. I followed that pitch, and had a good struggle with the slick rock in the v-slot... the climb is aptly named; lets leave it at that. Previously, I had considered this as my second trad lead, but now I am very glad I just followed it. Definitely not a good beginner lead. Did we miss something? Also, descent blows when snow is still around. We ended up rapping off the back. I guess that is the definition of a "classic"?!? Jan 1, 2001

The 2nd pitch is the only good pitch on this climb and the crux is a short slippery section protected by #4 Camalot...just one move and you are secure with a good hold...pretty cruiser I thought on my second lead, but first time up there I was a bit freaked by the slipperyness of this section also.... Best way to descend from the summit is to scramble to north and look for big ledge with pine tree that has chain and carpet around it...rappel from here to avoid the worst of the down-climbing.... Hardly feels like a classic climb (done it twice) but the 2nd pitch is long and fun. Also, start the first pitch by climbing the slab to the right before entering the cave (fun)...or an easier start is around to the right from the slab up the shallow corner...the chimney sucks but is quite easy. I'd say it's a pretty good beginner lead since it is not very sustained, has good pro and only one move of 5.7 at the crux, one of the easier 5.7s around boulder that I remember...Bailey's overhang (75 feet left of Cussin's) is a better climb than Cussin but has one move (the overhanging slot) that is 5.8...the rest is fun and sustained 5.6. Pitch 2 goes up the grassy looking crack/corner but is actually WAY cool and sustained 5.6 with a move or 2 of 5.7 (lots of fun).....other good beginner leads at this level might be all of the 5.7s at Happy Hour Crag (the long one up the middle is fun, Malign), Washington Irving and Duh Dihedral (both 5.6 and on the West Ridge at Eldo), Your Basic Lieback (sustained 5.6 hand crack/lieback on lower Peanuts wall in Eldo), Wind Ridge, The Owl on the Dome (Cozyhang sucks bad) and many others.... Jan 1, 2001

The route actually goes up the chimney to the left for the first pitch... you could go up the face, I guess, but the pro would be spicy to the extreme. Jan 1, 2001

Nothing wrong with a little spice. Jan 1, 2001

Good overhanging aid (A1 due to long moves?) practice spot. The bolts remove most of the groundfall potential. There are definitely a couple of reachy placements. Fun! Jun 20, 2014

It would be nice to have a better idea where this variation goes. There is a variation that was lead by John Matson in the 80's that uses the first piece of pro on the first pitch of Athlete's Feat but instead of mantling by the second bolt, the line traverses left below the headwall and up to the first pitch anchors of Athlete's Feat from below. By all accounts it is pretty run out. Jun 19, 2007

I'm confused about where this route is. The route just left of Athlete's Feat is called Never A Dull Moment. The first pitch is a slab traverse to the right and is protected by two bolts. It is rated 12a and seems to be reasonably protected (on this first pitch). To the left of this route is Jackson's Wall Direct (aka South Face). Does it lie in between these two routes? Are the anchors shared with another route? Aug 30, 2002

If you want blow-by-blow beta go to the BRC May 24, 2002

nice description. What I gained from it was that this "route" starts somewhere left of Athlete's Feet; that there is a sidepull somewhere on the pitch; and that somewhere up there you'll find fixed anchors. Oh, and i also learned that it has unprotected, loose climbing. nice contribution. May 14, 2002

This is a wonderful finish to Final Exam and deserves more attention! The holds are positive and the climbing is bouldery. I found it to be higher quality and only slightly more difficult than its neighbor, the Pass/Fail Option. The difficulty felt similar to me as other hard 11s at Castle Rock, although it may be closer to 12a/b if you are shorter? The small gear at the start of the roof is bomber; however, it is small. We found that a bomber 0.3 X4 cam fit very well under the small gear to protect the crux. Interestingly, neither the 0.3 C4 or the yellow C3 fit in the placement. With the X4, the route felt very safe, and a ground-up effort would be a fun challenge for a solid climber. If you want to avoid rope drag, build an anchor on the slab above Final Exam and pull your rope through before tackling the roof. Go get on it! Jul 13, 2014

Brillant pitch linked as one with CCC! A single set of cams with doubles in fingers and a couple nuts will sew the whole pitch up. Sep 21, 2012

Awesome route. No doubt one of the best trad lines in Boulder Canyon. One little tip for those who are interested: if you are going for the whole thing as one pitch, I highly recommend bringing triples (at least) of finger and big finger size cams (yellow and orange Metolius or equivalent) as well as extras in the #6 stopper/ #4 rock range. Jul 26, 2010

Wow. Castle Rock is so cool. I did this spectacular route yesterday. I had to give the bottom mantle a couple efforts before seeing the sequence and sending it (I obviously needed some Royal Robbins boots to trust my feet) and linking into the next pitch for one general odyssey of a climb. Holy-moly rope drag!!---extend your gear with slings, not draws at the thin changing corners crux. Also, let's replace the spinning, rusting SMC bolts that protect the mantle. I need a drill.... One gear beta response to the original post is that you can get really good gear above the slab, at the base of the thin corner. At the corner is a small, secure, offset nut. And down about 5 feet and right is bomber 1" piece or #0.5 Camalot. Awesome. Will definitely climb this route again sometime. Apr 29, 2010

I'll agree with the comment above. Sic, sic, SIC climb! The best BC has to offer. I thought Arm's Bazaar was the best until yesterday. Great pro the whole way with unrelenting moves. Just go for it! Definitely do it as one pitch, and take lots of slings. An 11d onsight and you'll need to have your gear dialed in at the crux for a successful send. Apr 30, 2007

Sic, Sic...Sic Climb!! One of the best in the Boulder area if you can climb the Grade. Forget the first part of Country club, just do this climb! BE CAREFUL once you have pulled the mantle, you will certainly deck until you get something in the first dihedral, as mentioned above. A double set of Aliens, blue to red, is the best pro for this climb, it's almost like cheating. (plus whatever you need for the crux of Country Club) You can do this in one pitch, one rope, if you have a 70m, which will reach the anchors for athletes feet, then another short rappel down. Sep 17, 2004

If you lead this in one pitch from the ground, make sure to use long slings at the start. One idea is to clip the fixed pin and bolt on the Athlete's Feat mantle, then downclimb and unclip from the pin. Once above the mantle reach down and change the QD on the bolt to a long runner. Also, consider using long slings on the gear at the start of the crux section (added excitement), and don't protect right under the CC Crack roof. I did all this and still had some rope drag on the CC Crack crux finger crack, but it was most likely just the weight of the rope. However you do this route, it's gotta be one of the best 5.11 trad climbs anywhere. Hats off to Alec Sharp and Bill Feiges for putting this one up. Sep 19, 2002

I think this is a great route, one of the best in the Boulder area. In the 'changing corners' section you can have excellent protection above your head for all the hard moves. The 2nd pitch looks much harder than it turns out to be. Aug 31, 2002

I thought this climb was pretty good. It was very difficult for me to not do the crux move dynamically. Good route, brief but burly crux. Well protected with small cams. Jun 24, 2013

Soloed this on sight, 25 years ago. Funny thing is, the few occasions times since then I’ve tried it on toprope, I’ve never been able to get up it at all...sigh..... Apr 13, 2012

Didn't lead this, but I think you can get good nuts and small cams on lead. If you want to TR this just start 6' to the left and go up a 5.8 crack...anywhere you want below the big roof (Pass Fail) you can setup a TR anchor. Right below the Pass Fail roof I setup and anchor with nuts/small cams, but if you have several hand size pieces you can set a belay anywhere along the way. To descend: You can traverse across to the rap above Coffin Crack or finish Bailey's Overhang route. I clipped the rope into the rap station and put a few pieces on the traverse before I went over there, fyi. It felt way easier now, but still feels solid 5.11 to me. :) Especially if you are going to onsight this thing! Mar 13, 2010

Maybe smaller fingers help. I got a really good left ring finger knuckle in at the crux that let me fire up high to the next clings and jug. But it took me 2 tries to find it- first try just bloodied me. Jul 1, 2009

I agree with Paul, this route handed me my ass in a waffle cone. I thought I was strong until.... Nov 25, 2008

If you are expecting Boulder Canyon 5.11a, think again. This is trad 5.11a rating all the way. It felt like 5.11 moves to me....especially if we were talking onsight grading. Having said that - after working the moves, it really was several 5.10 moves to one burly move and then you're done. Felt more like a sequency boulder problem, because once you gain the slab it is so much easier. There is a fixed nut in place right at the crux presently. Jun 25, 2008

I finally fixed the Free Range description, per Chris' comments. Sorry I haven't been climbing here much recently :) Oct 11, 2011

Tried this one today as well as "Surface Tension." and got killed. The start was ok, but turning my body into "Cage Free" with zippo feet, while keeping your composure and busting out that huge toss was just madding. A really cool problem. I think waiting for cooler temps and getting a stronger everything on my body before taking the completion of this seriously is going to be my deal. The tension is crazy!!! I felt stronger on "Midnight Express." Anyway, sick hook up to "Cage Free." Can't wait to see the reverse send from "Surface Tension" into "Cage Free" go!!! That's gonna be nuts!! All good lines on this wall!! Wait for good temps and low water to play here man... for-sure.. Sep 3, 2009

The start for free range is from a sloping left hand pinch, not the arete.... Apr 25, 2009

I remember bouldering this thing back in the mid-'80s. Got both hands and one foot off the ground. Felt about .10a. Aug 21, 2017

Not particularly painful at all, easy to protect with offset Mastercams (as long as you avoid plugging your jams). Placed three pieces total (not including the finish on Black Crack), with the third after hitting the jug at the top. Burly and fun. May 9, 2016

As a not-5.12 climber, I can say that this thing hurts. Lots of potential to kick your belayer in the face, as it is hard from the moment you leave the ground. Nov 9, 2013

Wish it was longer!!! Sep 5, 2013

11c/d if you know the beta?... I have to admit I led this one after numerous times on TR and figuring out the best way to place gear. So, it is probably a 12a grade for onsight, or something. Placed a 0.75 BD at the beginning, yellow C3 in the middle, and green C3 just before pulling what seems like the crux. I have not yet tried it, but probably bouldering it might be significantly easier than leading and placing gear. But you need two mats and a good spotter for it. Sep 12, 2011

I remember being up at Castle Rock alone one afternoon, it's the early eighties, I'm bouldering laps on The Gill Crack. Alex Lowe shows up. "Damn, Bobby!" "You bouldering that thing?" he says. Feeling good and a bit smug. "Yea" I say. It's not too bad as long as you get the top sequence of jams right. I give him the finishing right, left, right, jam sequence beta. This is so you end with right hand on the top hold and are able to reach out left with your left hand to Burnt Crack for the finish. Alex steps up and proceeds to fire it. Comes down and says "Yea, you're right!" "DAMN, Alex!" Found memories of bouldering this, Final Exam, Acrobatic Overhang, etc. and then roping up and doing the Campaigner with Alex one day up at Castle Rock. Not only was he a great climber, he was a great guy, gracious, and great company. Those were good days! Young and fit. Wish I could still boulder this thing now, and wish Alex was still with us. Aug 12, 2011

So cool to hear these stories, John. Keep them coming! Aug 2, 2010

First time I went here (1976), Bachar solos the Gill Crack and downclimbs the Black Crack in like one minute. Shit, I think, that looks easy. It is, says Bachar, but it wasn't as easy as John made it look, not with my fat ass fingers. Lucky it's short. Still, I thought on-sighting the Acrobatic Overhanging was more perilous since it's harder (V4?) and has a far worse landing. JL Aug 2, 2010

Painful and hard as hell. The feet are on grease and the fingers scream. Hats off to JG. Jul 7, 2010

I ripped a cam in a fall off this yesterday. I had an orange Metolius TCU in the last finger lock before the final "jug". The pin scar nature of this placement (narrow, deep crack) didn't really let the cam orient properly, and I think it levered out as I fell onto it. I was really pumped and trying to make the final move over to Black Crack when I fell. A bomber #7 BD stopper ~4 feet below the TCU kept me off the ground (barely). When I went back up, the same cam placed much better in the second-to-last finger lock (easy to place once you are past it). I'm glad to say I never tested this placement the way I tested the first, but it looked much better. This is a really fun climb, and requires faith in some really shallow locks. Sep 6, 2009

This is the 1st line I tried when I arrived in Colorado back in 1998 or so and to say the least got kicked around, man, and I was or I thought I was a 5.12 climber at the time. One I got used to the rock I got this line on (TR) a few years later. I would not boulder it and a gear ripping fall would be worse than bouldering it I think. So it was the (TR) for me. It's a sweet heart of a line. All pain for me. Wait for fall or cooler temps to run this one!!! Great chunk of stone. Sep 3, 2009

Finally got this one on the lead placing the gear. Super fun, one of the best short routes I have done. Bring a pad, a yellow C3 for near the top of the crack. Once you get the jug you only need a #3 Camalot, maybe some small wires, the pin and a #1 Camalot, extend the last couple pieces. Don't bother putting in the gear low, it probly won't keep you off the ground anyway. Just fire the moves to the only stance and place the yellow C3 above you for the last few moves to Black Crack. Go do it. Great climb. Props to Gill! May 4, 2009

Brute force sure doesn't hurt if you are not tall. I had to show up ready for a fight to make the redpoint. Watch how that yellow TCU gets placed, it is bomber in one orientation, and can rip in another, so pay attention to it if you don't have a great belayer. Great send, tape is your friend. Aug 14, 2007

Definitely not a finger wrecker... I pinched my right pinky because I slotted my hand for a bomber jam, but my untaped fingers looked way better than my all-taped fingers on some S Platte crack. There are many positive jams/locks on this route to place gear, but just remember that anything you place above your head will probably be a hold you'd want to use. Jun 11, 2007

I suggest to use a pad to get off the deck before placing gear down low. You can get a good finger lock about 15 feet up, then place a bomber piece right at your chest. It will help you not fiddle with too much gear. I think I used a #0.4 Camalot there, and then yellow TCU after that. May 12, 2007

I agree with Jason. As far as finger cracks go, this thing really isn't painful, even without tape. If you are not too accustomed to climbing fingercracks, you may feel some pain. I have particular respect for Gill for doing lines like this in the style he did. Jul 21, 2006

This is a great line and it is not the finger wrecker that everyone claims it to be. There is one painful fingerlock for the left hand, but overall, if you know how to jam, it is not any more painful than any other finger crack route. I bouldered this today, trying to live up to Gill's standards, downclimbing Black Crack after hitting the jug. I just couldn't bring myself to climbing it in boots and sans a pad. Even with technology, like sticky rubber on my shoes, Gill will always be better then me... Mar 5, 2006

Brute finger (tip) force - pain is guaranteed. Feet are pretty damn bad. If it was another foot or two I simply wouldn't have made it - as it was I'm not too sure I can say that I did anyway. . . . Oct 11, 2005

Finger wrecker. Aug 16, 2004

Consider yourself accomplished merely to get off the ground here... I TR'd this one after leading Black Crack and had a grand old time getting 8' off the ground. I wish I was as good as JG.... :_( Sep 26, 2003

Slightly painful fingerlock at the crux but good climbing. I believe it could have been climbed/developed as a trad route... and I'd advocate that sort of climbing. As a trad lead it looks engaging but not dangerous. Sm-med stoppers, small cams, and maybe a ball-nut if you wanted to do it completely boltless and without a runout. Will have to go back when it is not raining and give it a go as such. To answer the question above from Mark Roth, I think the #3 goes high and left between the last bolt and the anchor. Aug 11, 2012

Great route! Still a little dirty but super fun. Climbs way harder than it looks. I never saw where the #3 would go? If you can manage the crux, you would be fine without any supplemental gear. I placed a #0.5 Camalot before the anchor and noticed other possible placements as well, but not for the #3.... Jun 28, 2012

Start matched on the low fin, RH to a pinchy crimp on the obvious little block, punch left to a small incut edge, RH to the obvious edge just over the lip, reach LH to a bad sloping, pockety edge, move right to the horizontal crimps, match, left foot over, reach for the sidepull LH and stand up. Oct 2, 2009

I wonder which sidepull you are talking about. Most ascents go RH to the lip. I easily pulled off the original LH hold leaving a very solid small LH edge/undercling. I'm surprised to hear that might be flexing and wonder if it is actually the same one. Sep 27, 2009

I heard that the start of this problem has broken? As in... it fell apart?!? I seem to remember the starting holds being quite solid but since I've not been back to confirm this Intel - I was wondering if anyone else has heard about or can confirm the broken starting hold(s) information. Thanks Aug 22, 2009

Got on this one today. It was a lot of fun. I could not figure the beta to get my body over the lip yet. Seems there may be a few good ways to do this one, but I just could never make total since of the moves to get one's self mounted up on the up part of the wall!!? Just day one though.... hopefully a few more visits and I will send. F.Y.I. I a decent place to cross to river that is close to the problem. It's a log jam that was ok to cross and made access much easier. But as usual be careful if you walk the logs as I did... you could take a spill of even get hurt!!! Jun 12, 2009

Yes albeit with Olsonian heelhook beta going to the crimp below the lip on the left May 9, 2008

There is a nice video of Ryan Olson climbing Hardboiled at: boulderingmedia.com/videos/… May 9, 2008

Chad, You are so right, man!!! I made a major mistake by accident. I check the link you posted and that helped so much. I will make the proper correction A.S.A.P. If you have any other information you would like to provide, it would be much appreciated. Again, Thanks. Luke Childers. Aug 26, 2009

I think hit hard tactics is the stand start to surface tension. bouldercanyonbouldering.blo… Aug 26, 2009

After doing this on TR, I wouldn't try to lead it. The gear looks questionable.... Some really fun moves though! Aug 25, 2009

This is fun TR after doing curving crack. I think the stemming moves and liebacks are a kick in the pants! Would be a serious lead, however. Probably more fun and quicker to do a few laps on TR then to lead it. I personally think that its pretty stout for a 9. Aug 29, 2005

All in all, this climb turned out to be surprisingly pleasant. For sure, it was the final pitch to the top that made it well worth it. Only had to place one cam the entire route as pitons and fixed gear abound. Jul 26, 2015

Just did this this weekend (actually the 5.9 varaiation that goes up the face to the same first belay spot). Wanted to mention that THE ANCHORS HAVE BEEN CHOPPED. Either that, or I was way way off route, but there is a obvious ledge after the chimney that would be a nice belay station where you can see that 3 anchors/bolts have been chopped. Just so you know. Jul 13, 2015

I thought the chimney was rather straightforward. I have leather patches on my pants and used knee locks until I could stand on the rather comforting inside ledge. There were two places I could get small wires for decent protection. Jul 22, 2013

We climbed this on 6/20/13, and there was a nasty loose rock on the exposed traverse just above the bolted belay. It's marked with a couple white Xs, but they look to be fading. It's something you will want to grab if you're not paying attention, and there's a good chance it would hit your belayer or folks on the ground below. Be careful! Other that that, we found this climb better than expected. The chimney start isn't particularly fun, but the rest of the route is quite nice. Jun 21, 2013

It definitely makes more sense to break this up into 4 short leads to avoid awful rope drag. May 16, 2013

Even though the book says to climb this in two pitches, I usually go in four. I do the slab start R of the chimney, then up to the gully. P2 goes up to the bolted belay. P3 is kinda a guide trick. I do the traverse around the roof, go up the corner to its top and belay right there. It's short but allows great communication between everyone and makes the last pitch a bit more pleasant for the leader. Really a great route. Aug 29, 2012

One of the easier climbs on Castle Rock; honest at 5.6. Biggest part is getting back down via North Face descent. Did this the 1st time in December 1961 while home from Army on leave. Icy nightmare getting down! Mar 12, 2011

We broke this climb into four short pitches. This significantly reduces rope drag and makes communication a little easier. With a 50m rope stopping above the chimney at the obvious ledge is probably a better option then trying to stretch it all the way to the bolts anyway. With the exposure above the bolted belay and the high potential for rope drag, I wouldn't recommend this route for beginning leaders. Lots of fun though! Sep 21, 2010

Weird route. The first pitch (or two as some people do it) is not very aesthetic or fun, at all. Once you reach the bolted belay, the climbing is steep and fun for the grade, but be very mindful of rope drag, unless of course you are fond of climbing one handed with a mouthful of slack just to manage the drag.... If you can, run it out a bit, it's much more enjoyable that way. Sep 20, 2007

Only about 10 feet of rope remain (using a 60m) when finished belaying the leader up this fun climb. For my first real chimney, the start of Jackson's Wall was a challenge but fun to try to figure out (though not much rock suitable for pro placement) how to climb (you can also climb the face, but pro is very limited)! For the chimney, first face left, then half way up you have to turn around and face right, then move out on the face for a bit until you catch the crack up to the short traverse right to the rather obvious belay ledge. On P2 there are a couple of exposed moves you have to do, but relatively easy climbing. The second move after the ledge is a bit of a push up onto a ledge about 6" wide at most that is made by a rather sharp flake. You can try to do a foot jam in the flake while you pull yourself up, but I found this to be a bit awkward when trying to get my foot out at a sharp angle while pushing up onto the ledge. If you go left, you will find some footholds that will help you. The next move is a high step right up onto a narrow stone ridge-like flake that gives a lovely view between it and the main rock down to the road and water below. From there up it gets easier and less exposed. Nice variety of moves required. Relatively easy walk off the opposite side down to the left. Enjoy! Girasol Sep 4, 2007

Two FEISTY ravens have built a large nest in the ramp just before you exit right at the top of the first pitch. Though it would have added some spice to the route, we opted not to challenge them. Apr 1, 2007

A few notes: I didn't like the looks of the chimney start for my beginner on the first pitch, so I opted for the slab to the right. I was able to place a stopper (which popped out) about 8 feet off the ground, and then I ran it out the rest of the way (about 25 feet from the ground). Good 5.6 s warm up for the 4th class hiking above. Make sure you don't stop in the gully until you hit the double bolt chain anchor at the base of the crux pitch. Less pitches that way. Be careful of rope drag on the crux pitch. I found I was zig zagging a lot looking for the easiest line. The 5.8 direct finish would have probably been less draggy (and more fun). But then I'd be hauling my 2nd up manually. Fun route overall. Though I couldn't really see it, since I was doing an after work sunset race. Oct 5, 2005

Already listed under "South Face". Jun 28, 2002

Useful toys to bring on this one: 4 each #0 and #1 heads (incase fixed heads are missing), a few heads in the bigger sizes, circle heads, all sizes of beaks and hooks. Jun 16, 2012

Tell ya what, go and aid it first and see what you think of the gear, and the major lack of useable features. We never got up it.... Sounds like your gear options are either: 1. Aid the line and test the placments and replace what rips (you're probably gonna whip as I ripped one by hand and blew out on a time bomb that tested well). 2. Rap the line and fix enough heads to deem the route sane (hopefully you're good at heading as the placements are tricky as they are mostly chiseled out placments in a awkwardly bottoming, shallow, flared seam). 3. Retro bolting, hopefully on lead, and infrequently at that. Only with the FA's permission. The line is damn bleak in general even when hanging from gear. I don't know how many people actually repeated this route. I feel it's either X/ borderline insane and super hard or it's downgraded for any future aid ascentionist and still super hard. Seems in either domain (free or aid) it's a test piece. Unless you're contemplating the X rated/ borderline insane, how do you justify that it would be ok to retro bolt and down grade an aid test piece just to put up some mixed protected free test piece? Just curious, it's a bit of a sensitive subject for me. I don't mean to single you out, but I think someday I'd like to finish the route up and hopefully in its current condition. I feel like China Doll in Upper Dream Canyon would have been a much more enjoyable route before it was retro protected for the free ascent (same with the aid roof on castle rock). I think it would be the same case here, and I am not condoning that even if it already is a chipped up heading line that will require someone who is really really good at heading to see a repeat. Feb 5, 2010

Has anyone tried to free either a straight up version or the standard line?? They look hard, but possible. Does anyone has any info on this matter? Thanks. Jan 31, 2010

Attempted to put up the straight up variation on pitch 1 today. It's a bummer, but the only edge to hook on has been blown out. I was high stepping off a hybrid Alien hoping to get a Pecker in upside down in the roof as I could just about reach upto it, the hybrid was a time bomb and next thing I know I land on 2 separate heads with screamers on them (one was my adj. daisy with a screamer) both screamers deployed paritally and I didn't have to whip like Eric when he attmepted this. He broke his finger when the edge he was hooking on blew and he ripped a few pieces (falling 20 ft, nearly decked on slabs below). I got stabbed in the leg with a Pecker when I came to a stop. The straight up variation of pitch 1 hasn't gone for a reason.... Still need to get back up and try to rebate the second pitch. Feb 22, 2009

STOUT! A rebate is in order. I need to learn the art of tough heading first though. Only 1 fixed dead head still in place off the ramp on P2, I ripped the first one (fixed head) while trying to get something in above. Time bomb! I decked on the ledge safely enough. Then I came in from the seam just to the left via hooks to Peckers finally making a large reach to pound in a beaked RURP atop the dead head. Made my way up and made another long reach up to the next fixed head and clipped it, then ripped it out by hand essentially. We decided to bail as we had no #0 heads and I didn't feel capable of learning the art of hard heading on the sharp end on a route rated A4 in the guide. Yep, I bit off a little more then I could chew here on this one, I was hoping for more good fixed heads I think. Now I have a good project to work on, and a new skill to hone. Feb 9, 2009

This route was put up by aid masters Matt Buckner and James J. Funsten VI in the mid nineties. Both are now semi-retired from this sort of carry-on. Jun 3, 2005

A few years ago I went up and tried to TR the second pitch(solo). There were fixed heads everywhere! I started up and the 3rd fixed head off the ramp blew! I was just moving onto it and hadn't moved my Tr device up or unclipped my daisy from the previous piece. I took a short fall and when I stopped I realised I had broken the cable of the previous head in half, with the loop still attached to my daisy and the head still in the rock! I cleaned the deadhead and tried to place another but could not get it to stick. If you are going to try this route you will probably need a sharp punch to place this #1 head. Also most of the head placements appeared to be chiseled? Jun 16, 2002

Great line! Harder than it seemed at first. Placing the gear after the last bolt is pumpy, but it's there if you can hang around to find it - then all you have to worry about is the crux! Tons of slings are helpful. May 30, 2013

What a wild route! It's definitely seeing a bit of action, judging from chalk, and seems plenty clean and safe. Sep 20, 2012

Fun and Exciting. Still cleaning up a bit. May 18, 2012

For the full 5.13 enchilada, start at the Water World dihedral right of Tourist Extravagance, go up 30'and traverse left across a burly undercling/jam, cross Tourist Extravagance above its bolt ladder, clip 2 bolts with some vertical yoga in the Skatepark scoop thing, and finish up the Mexican Picnic arete cracks. For the mild-ish 5.11 tamale, climb the 5.11 section of Mexican Picnic from Country Club to the anchor at 30 meters, just before the upper 5.12 crux. A 70 meter rope just makes the lower off from the top anchor. Apr 24, 2012

Worked on the bottom for a short while and got my butt off the ground... so that was exciting!! Now I've go to stick the chip like undercling and I will put this hog away. Still looking for the best solution for the opening moves on this sweetheart. I just love this line man!!! The top-out is still spooky though! Aug 25, 2009

Holly... MAN... this is the mother of all lines!! I loved this problem more than life!! Although I couldn't do the first two moves, which is the bizz, I was able to work out the rest of the problem to my total satisfaction!! The line is like gold!!!! The top-out is scary because of the death landing but the holds were good enough for me to relax and top-out. Just need to put that opening sequence together and I will never ask for any thing ever again. I'm an addict of "Midnight Express" now!! The opening sequence could take me the rest of my life but this is my forever until sent project!! Just a great problem with moves that exist only in our dreams. It's a must do!! Aug 24, 2009

I haven't led first two pitches of this climb since 1986. I used to combine these pitches as one, using double ropes. I can understand how someone would call this 5.12b, especially since the block is gone past the crux moves of the crack. After some desperate lieback moves, a juggy wedged block was reached. The block moved but didn't pull off, because it sat a big slot that opened up in the thin crack corner. The jug / block gave you a good place to shake out before the final 10 feet of the climb. Without it, the second pitch must be harder. I consider the second pitch to be R rated. The unprotected traverse to start the pitch is quite committing. The rest of the pitch protects quite well, but I wouldn't consider doing it without two sets of RPs or #2-6 Black Diamond steel nuts. I also placed a #1 Friend, #2.5 Friend, & a #11 or 12 stopper. I was surprised to see Peter's gear description recommend small to medium stoppers & not tiny nuts (micro-stoppers) or RPs. I was just looking at an old gear topo I drew back in the 1980s in my personal diary. I can also understand how someone would think the first pitch was 5.12b. The first pitch is quite hard especially if you are tall with a big chest. While hanging on fingernail edges & traversing the sloping shelf, the wall bulges a bit into my chest. This wants to push me off. Shorter climbers seem to have a bit easier time, as their arms are straighter (not chicken winged) & the bulge is more at face level. Jul 14, 2017

Adam, Like Bob R. says above I always thought the crack was harder than the micro slab start, but they're 2 different animals. Haven't done the slab in like 20 yrs. Try to avoid it, but the crack is killer. Horan use to lead the slab barefoot many years ago. Also watched Roger Briggs lead the crack no problem...rope solo! Peace Sep 3, 2015

The first pitch slab traverse is my vote for the hardest 5.12 in the Front Range. Has it ever been on-sighted on lead? For that matter, how many people have even lead it in the last decade? Sep 2, 2015

Just ran across the comments on this one and had to pipe in as it brought back memories. The slab pitch is some tedious footwork and balance, helped by fingernails on micro-edges to just stay in balance. However,I always thought the crack was harder than the slab. Although the slab could be harder now due to degradation of the micro fingernail holds. It took me multiple attempts, with Maurice Reed, Jeff Achey, and others over several different days to finally get the crack on this clean in the early '80s. Protection was tricky, and the finish was always the big stopper for me and seemed to be the real crux overall. A hard Castle Rock classic testpiece for sure! Sep 20, 2013

Thanks, Topher. The decision to add these anchors was not taken lightly. The reasons Topher gives are real, and I discussed the placement plenty before deciding where to place them. When you reach the no hands stance for the anchors, the climb is over. To get to the Athlete's Feat chains is 20ft of 5.4. Apr 28, 2012

I didn't place the new anchor, but I was in on the discussion deciding to add it. The reason for the new anchor was to prevent the rope from running across, and leveraging when top-roping, the big, detached block which sits on the slab between the lip and the bolted anchor on Athlete's Feat. It seemed like a matter of time and freeze/thaw cycles before someone pulled it down with lethal results. Apr 28, 2012

BIG THANKS to whoever recently added the 2-bolt anchor on top of this rig. Grade, stars for direct start. Hard 12b crux at 2nd bolt, then finicky but good small & medium gear with another 12- crux about 3/4 up. Not as heads up as I expected although I definitely figured the gear out on TR first. A notch or two harder and just as awesome as its 4-star neighbors to the right. Jul 24, 2011

Cojones...you know, balls. Feb 13, 2009

Okay, I have to ask... onions? Feb 13, 2009

P1: Fingernails (literally). P2: Onions (pre-micro days). Feb 12, 2009

A little late to the discussion, but I agree with Adam. And I'm good at slabs! I could not figure out the 1st pitch (I only tried it once) for the life of me. I really couldn't compare it to much else, just climbing on nothing with no clear sequence........I got spanked. And the whole time that bitchin' looking crack above my head was mocking me. Hangs head. Paybacks a bitch tho! Feb 12, 2009

Maybe it's just another case of routes feeling different to different people. I sent both Arms and Spoils in a couple days of work while Never A Dull Moment is still spanking me. Never A Dull Moment (slab linked into crack as one pitch) feels miles harder than any 12a or b trad I have done anywhere in the Front Range. Grade discussion aside (as it is a rather silly dicussion in the first place), this is one stellar chunk of granite with beautiful movement, excellent rock and continiously difficult movement. Further proof that Alec Sharp had a master eye for finding routes. Aug 14, 2008

Adam, I've not been back on the route since you & I were there. I shameless took the grade from Rossiter's book; how am I to judge what the grade of the original traverse is if I haven't been able to do it? Still, I don't think doing the traverse would add any pump to the rest of the route. In that respect, I'd think Evictor is much harder. This is the only climb (original traverse) I've been on where I think I'd have a better chance of making the move if I strap some weights on my ankle (to shift my weight balance). As for BoCan grade, Rossiter called both Arms Bazaar and The Spoils @ 12a and I'd think the latter is easily 1 letter grade (if not 2) harder than the former and would be a bit sandbagged for 12a. Aug 13, 2008

I guess I can't comment on the original start since I haven't tried it. I've always used the newer direct start. I thought I finally was going to send this thing last Sunday but was denied again at the top. I was pulling that awkward exit move when I fell, ripping the gear just below my feet. When I finally hit the end of the rope I was back down at the bolt near the start! Aug 12, 2008

Hey Ted, I think I might be getting weak and old, that's all. To do the slab and crack as one pitch with no falls took me about 5 days of work (and that's on toprope!). It's one challenging pitch. I think it is at least as hard as The Evictor. Maybe someone who has led it recently could correct me. Aug 12, 2008

Brink, I think this is the first time I've heard you say a Bo-can route is harder than the grade given... Are you ok? :) PS - I have to give you back Jess' pack, sorry for the delay. Aug 12, 2008

Hey Shuman, Good job on sending this rig! Did you really think the 1st pitch traverse was 12a? I've climbed a lot of slab routes and that is one of the most technical bits of climbing I have ever tried. It is at least 12a/b:) Aug 11, 2008

Not a bad route objectively, but given the wealth of other options, anyone other than the most die-hard Ned-Head should look to the other classics available to climb. Also, this route name makes me think of nothing other than the real #NOFLYZONE: #nfz. Apr 7, 2016

My buddy Adam Brink and I managed to send this on lead last weekend via Englishman's Home. More folks should go for it. The whip is great, and you can finagle a purple Master cam about 15 ft before the anchor cutting the runout a bit shorter. Sep 10, 2013

I was wondering when you succeeded in leading this, Topher. Very cool! Yes, that is correct: Domestic Abuse goes out the undercling and orangutans out right to the arete. On the FA in 1987 (100% from the bottom up, and yes, some good whippers cleaning lichen on the go...), I belayed at the arete. As to Nobody's Home, thanks for keeping the name. Having toproped this many times, I kept thinking "This would be a good ABC Headpoint" - meaning an elementary or introductory level headpoint, in the sense that you can fall a long distance but are unlikely to get hurt. Way to go! Has anyone else led this since you? Good Spectator Value, to be sure! Oct 22, 2012

Thanks for the explanation, Topher! It sounds like an awesome addition! Kudos on the heady lead! May 1, 2012

Regardless of who did it first or what it is called, it is a very cool and hard finish to either CCC or Englishman's Home. Good job on the lead, Topher! May 1, 2012

Only 30 feet of new terrain, Chris, but it's a wild 30! I talked to Eric Doub (the name Nobody's Home was suggested by Eric, in fact) a while ago about it, and he said Domestic Abuse traverses the roof all the way out to the arete before going up on easier terrain to the Country Club anchor. Nobody's Home goes about halfway out the roof before going straight up to the Country Club anchor. I know the Nobody's Home headwall has been toproped for years by going out to the arete and then foot traversing back across the sloping ramp that is part of Nobody's Home, but I don't know of it being led that way. Anyone? Classic MP - soon the name, FA list, and ensuing thread will be longer than the new terrain on the climb.... May 1, 2012

I thought that the roof had been done in 1987, and called Domestic Abuse? FA Doub, Arran, Panjiller. Does Nobody's Home climb different terrain? Apr 30, 2012

This roof has some great moves and a wild lip. A few comments about gear and rope drag. Linking into this straight out of Final Exam is a great pitch, but the rope drag can be problematic. Once onto the slab after Final Exam, set a few pieces and drop a loop of rope to your belayer. Then you can go back on belay without the rope running through all of the gear on Final Exam to avoid that drag. Your rope will only be going through the pieces you placed on the slab. A green Alien is the best piece I found to protect the move up into the roof crack, and a green Camalot (0.75) protects the roof crack. The gear is good and the fall is clean -- I proved this several times before finally getting this thing clean! Also there is a new(ish) anchor about 10' up and right after pulling the roof. It is the top of "The Dropout Option" (12+, not on this site yet). You can lower to the ground from here with a 60m rope. Jun 25, 2011

Beta alert: seemed like a very long reach up and right from obvious, chalked-up hold; I couldn't get it and fell (I'm sure it would go that way, just need a little more reach and/or horsepower). Next try, I did another move up and left to a less obvious hold (layback), then reached right; seemed substantially easier that way. Not sure what is the "normal" way. Aug 12, 2017

Attempted to top-rope this route on Saturday after leading the 5.6 pitch to the left. The remnants of the missing feature that fell off in 2013 is quite obvious to spot as a brown spot is left in its wake. Without this hold, the route is very difficult, and none of our team could get through the roof boulder problem. There seems to be a way to climb up and left out onto two horn-like features before launching to a prominent hold out towards the second bolt. We were too sauced to make the move though. Be careful of loose rock on the slab above the roof. I've seen large chunks come crashing down off of this area. Oct 12, 2015

Climbed this route this morning without the "broken foothold". I don't know how the climb was before, but it did not feel significantly harder than 11b/c now. I did use other beta than described above. Instead of using the hold I just used the small "dish" to the right of the bolt. Jul 12, 2013

This morning the foothold under the first bolt fell as I was following a friend up the route. We didn't try it a second time, but it looks like a significant change to the climb. Jul 3, 2013

Fun roof moves that are over all to soon. The upper section of climbing after the roof is less than desired and has some lose rock!!! However, it's still fun and I would probably do it again, but it would not be my first choice. Aug 25, 2009

The climbing above the roof, in my opinion isn't all that great. The crux moves are fun. It is possible to get some psychological pro in the wet crack before you clip the first bolt, but don't hope for much, and you would want to back clean it after clipping the bolt. You know how it is when your intimidated, you think weird things...ha. For a TR, climb the first pitch of the west face and move right at the top. It is possible to continue on to climb the Big Deal Pinnacle. I remember it being a bit crumbly and run out. Then, from there you could finish with the west face. I wouldn't do it again. Sep 20, 2007

WOW! actually not so wow, I should have known I would get put in my place once again by the only honest ratings in Boulder Canyon! Castle Rock is keepin' it real Son. Aug 22, 2007

I'd agree with 2 stars and 11b (I'm 6'2). This is a really cool climb - pumpy and weird - once you get it done it's not too bad the second time 'round. . . though going for the crux move out of the roof is a bit intimidating. Oct 11, 2005

There's good crack at the base of the roof and positive holds out to the edge of the roof. Pulled this off on TR by swinging the right foot out and up onto a small ledge just past the middle of the roof, then pushed off opposing with the right hand over the left shoulder shifting my weight into the rock using the corner of a small block, then switching hands, reached again with the right hand for the corner of another small block higher. As Tony mentions your going from a horizontal position back to standing up vertical. Very weird move. Remember bruising the inside of my calf as it passed over the 1st bolt (as it protrudes about 2") doing the move. Oct 4, 2002

I pulled off most of the lefthand ear yesterday. The problem should still go though, possibly V12? I doubt harder than that. May 10, 2010

Unfortunately, the left hand undercling that you go off to the right hand lunge finish is flexing muchly. Expect it to break shortly. Short lived problem. Oct 11, 2009

Route 66! Aye, you better be ready to deal with & enjoy, just about all types of climbing on this old school, adventure classic -- everything from solid granite to stacked blocks to lichen, moss, & tree detritus. I've looked at this route for years and finally had the chance to climb it with a much stronger climber than myself today. To begin, we waded Boulder Creek up above our knees to get to the dry boulders at the base of the route where we harnessed and geared up. I chose to keep my now soaked La Sportiva Ghanda Guide boots on to climb and was very glad I did as the granite is hard and the cracks are wider. Bring it all from smallest Aliens to a #4 BD Camalot, you will use most if not all. Also bring a good nut tool, 'cause you will probably be doing some gardening. The climbing ranged from 5.5 mossy slab at the top to 5.9+ slot/wide crack physicality down low. Four half pitches, diverse and full focus one and all. While I was belaying, I looked down at the happy whitewater creek with a flyfisherman and thought +++ this is Colorado! As Kellen said: "I had a blast!" Jul 5, 2017

5.8 still feels like this, Bryan F. Only a bit more so. Everything just keeps getting harder. Aug 21, 2017

The 1976 edition of High Over Boulder (Pat Ament and Cleveland McCarty) had this route at 5.8+. Back then, we thought that was pretty much what a 5.8+ felt like. Who knew? Apr 4, 2015

Although this is a bit of an awkward route, I really enjoyed it. Squeezing as much of myself into the chimney worked for me. I know I didn't look very graceful though.... Mar 23, 2011

I left two quickdraws at the top of this route on the chains last week. If someone picks them up I would love to get them back. I forgot them because my partner fell and got hurt. Thanks, returning gear is good karma! Nov 24, 2009

Friend Casey said, "nah, I don't want to picnic and climb at C.R. 'cause it is too greasy." I didn't know what he meant until trying this one, and now I do. Wow. Slick, like the guy said. Easier to second, as you can layback the first section with the slick feet, but if you are leading, it is tricky to layback and protect at the same time. For on-sight, 10a, I thought, but did 2nd lap following and maybe 9+ is ok for that. Definitely worth doing. And, there are now chains at the top of this, so no need to move over to top of Curving Crack for those chains. Aug 28, 2009

Another Castle Rock sandbag? Hard to start and an awkward pig of a move higher up. May 8, 2009

The start of this climb is somewhat slippery. Definately solid 5.9 crux. Oct 1, 2002

Scott, I think you should try yoga. It makes it easier to extract your shoulder from your wider midsection. Be careful out there! Sep 12, 2002

I was still mystified by all the zippers and pockets on my new $80 climbing pants when my partner yelled "off belay, good luck..." The first few feet of Skunk Crack is slicker then a Jiffy-Lube garage floor at closing time.Being able to torque myself into the handjam above the initial fingerlock felt tough but extracting my shoulder out of the wider midsection nearly required medical attention. Nothing like an old school 5.9 to start me back sportclimbing! Sep 11, 2002

This short route offers a tricky opening sequence right off the ground. A crack inside a narrow groove widens for just a few inches which allows a tenuous two knucle deep finger lock for the left hand. The feet in the first two moves are vague and most folks use the crack for the right foot and stem/smear on the polished left face. 10' farther up a shallow, shoulder width, slightly inverted chimney must be overcome. Good pro here, but again a tricky sequence since its so tight, you can't see your feet, but a nice high right hand crack saves the day allowing you to pull through (I've seen climbers avoid this squeeze by pulling left over a lip to gain the easy ground). When this sequence is overcome, most people stop to catch their breath, I know I did. The remainder of the pitch is (5) and most parties go to the chains above curving crack to rap. Aug 10, 2002

The Corinthian Vine P2 is probably a better option than traversing. It offers better climbing in my opinion. It's decently protected despite D'Antonio's "R" rating for that pitch. Protected by what seems to be a glued in copperhead.... It seems logical to fire up this corner/roof and then traverse into the remaining P3 of South Face. Or, instead of moving slightly left as for South Face, continue straight up a thin corner protected by a pin. Good line, good funk, OK gear to boot. Jun 30, 2013

On pitch 1 when jamming the crack right before the traverse, something in that crack was hissing at me. May 5, 2013

Did this today and it felt awfully hard. Harder than the 10a's I've done at Eldo. Also, why is that bolt even there? If you're going to add a bolt, might as well do it where it would help and not cause a big pendulum. Just my $0.02. I also felt the gear wasn't very obvious, small, and fairly run-out. Not for the new 5.9 leader. Jun 27, 2012

I thought the route finding was tough after the 1st pitch, and I never thought anything was that run-out. May 23, 2012

Climbed this today with a friend who suckered me into leading the second pitch. I enjoyed the climb but got really tweaked out about the traverse. That swing looked daunting, but the stretchy move is there. Really wished there was some pro below besides a sketchy notch (one piton could prevent a serious injury, but alas). Take your pick...run out or pendulum - but as far as the rest of the climb...amazing. Jun 16, 2010

A great and confusing finish.... It seems that I could find many finishes with great variation in there difficulty. I found that route finding tough and interesting after (P1). Such a fantastic wall!! As the cold and darkness set in, we had to bail just 40ft from the summit because we took so long on the route finding provided how much time we had left of good sun and day light. So, we rapped out with a new found respect and interest in the many possibles of routes on the (2nd & 3rd) pitches. What a great, huge wall to play on. This January day was a tough one, but we had a great time!! A fantastic route that should be explored more!!! Jan 31, 2010

Just led this route today. Took a 5 ft whiper on the first pitch crux when I was fumbling for a draw for the piton - shouldn't have, but it felt good to take another whipper on gear. Led the third pitch and thought the left crack (the upside down V) looked harder than the left facing crack on the right - so I went right. Well, I think I was wrong. I saw the lower traverse left, but then saw the bolt and thought that the "proper" traverse was a little higher up - and figured I'd come back again later for the lower traverse left. I got up into the pod above the bolt and had my left hand about 6" from the "good" hold and backed off because I thought the feet were sketchy. I then put together a new game plan went back at it again, only to back off again. The third time was the charm, back to the original game plan - a right gaston pulling hard to keep the hip in and a left reach for the visibly worn hand hold. The hold wasn't that good, but it was good enough to pull through the crux. Trust the feet, they are good enough. I was very relieved to get to the point and wrap a sling around for my second. Anyway, I have no clue what I did or how to rate the pitch, but after reading these comments and since there was a ton of lichen on it, I don't think I did the "normal" traverse and I don't I think it's a 5.9+ - but I could be wrong. I would love to get back for the lower traverse - it looked sweet. Oh yeah, the 3rd pitch has a nut on the ramp that my second couldn't get out - if someone gets it, of course, enjoy it and let me know how you got it out - I worked on it for 15 minutes on rappel to no avail. Anyone have a clue what I climbed? Jul 12, 2008

I climbed this great route yesterday, it was an eye opener at the crux section. On the last pitch, instead of going right and finishing on the ramp, I wandered left and up and got caught on some slopey area. In the book it looked like there was a 8 variation that way. There was a big undercling that I used to continue left - I think the 8 section went strait up from there but don't know. I think I went too far left and then tried to finish up two different cracks - the left one had a medium bush/tree at the top near the big ledge. It seemed that this area doesn't get alot of traffic as there was dirt and a bit of rock exfoliation. Does anyone know if this is an upper pitch to another climb? Jun 13, 2008

The first pitch crux (10a in Rossiter) seemed much easier than the traverse on the second pitch. I would say 5.9 (possibly R) is a good rating for the climb overall. That second pitch is scary! Jul 14, 2007

Dear Mike McHugh, I can relate to what you wrote. When I look at some of the things I climbed and how I climbed them twenty years ago, it just scares the heck out of me. How did I ever live to see grandchildren? Isn't it funny that when we are young, with so much life ahead of us, that we take so many chances. Then, when we get older, and have less years left, that we take less chances and become so much more conservative in our climbing practices? Apr 25, 2005

Did the route today, and all I have to say is the traverse is a good 5.9 lead to do if you think you're ready for a 5.10 lead. It'll certainly put things in perspective. 10a seems right, with solid 9 for the rest of that pitch. Re protecting the traverse: there is a good TCU placement (like Metolius #0 or #1, can't remember) under the small undercut that's at waist level when you're at the stance to begin crossing. It's a good hold too, but I found I was a lot happier using it as placement than as a hold. And I know it's good because it held my fall as I was trying to work out that sandbag traverse. I would recommend that placement to anyone -- unless you're into a "20 footer on a good nut". May 18, 2003

Fred, The 10c variation you mention is the 2nd pitch of Corinthian Vine. The first pitch of this route is the Boot Lead. The 3rd pitch is rated 12c/d and is bolted. I agree that Corinthian Vine's 2nd pitch makes a great variation to the South Face. When I did it, I combined it with the first pitch of the South Face (still not that long of a pitch). My partner then traversed left to rejoin the regular South Face. There are three different ways to do this traverse. Bill Jul 25, 2002

I don't know the name of this variation, but there is a fun and interesting 10c roof/dihedral about half way down the ledge on the first pitch, that leads to anchors above Boot Lead & Close To The Edge. These anchors provide a way to rap down and, better still, TR those 2 excellent (and hard!) routes. Also, the face to the right of this variation is another interesting option. The Falcon Guide suggest 10d for this, but it felt harder to me (esp. comparing it to the 10c), more like 11b at least. The gear is sparse, a single button head protecting the tricky crux high on the face being the only pro above the ledge. Jul 25, 2002

Steve, I couldn't agree with you more. With regard to this particular route, moving/adding the bolt would completely change its character - it might still be a 5.9, but it wouldn't be Jackson's Wall Direct. While the upper crux isn't what I would call "well-protected", it's not a death fall by any means. I'm sure I'm biased in this regard because of my perspective. The "rush" I get from climbing comes when I am tested on multiple fronts - climbing ability, ability to quickly place reliable protection, route-finding, and perhaps most importantly, judgment and common sense. The routes I aspire to lead are ones that present all of these challenges in varying degrees - an approach that doesn't always equate to pure climbing difficulty. Even if I never have the ability or nerve to climb them, it's nice to know that 7 Arrows, Jules Verne, The Lion, and many others are still around in something resembling their original state - it's what keeps me coming back. Feb 21, 2002

I too thought that the initial "crux" moving out of the crack and on to the ledge was easier than 5.10a. I said 5.8+ as well. My shorter partner disagreed. On the upper crux, the traverse past the bolt, I felt the move was 5.9+, but was insecure enough to be ennervating at any grade of difficulty. I mover up, clipped the bolt, then moved back down and did the move. I and my partner both agreed that while this move was not terribly difficult, that it seemed slick and a little off-balance. It seemed more likely that you might slip from it than fall for lack of skill. BTW, I am 5'10" and have exceptionally long arms. Dianne is 5'5", I believe. Hopefully this does not start some huge flame war. Nov 6, 2001

Now, Mr. Lang, I'm no city slicker, but I know my way around a brain teaser. Are you tellin' me that 'with a simian wingspan' the move is 5.9, and for shorter folks, who can't reach across to the good left edge, it is...5.9? C'mon now, you're a dodgy coot! Well, it'll get upgraded soon, good thing I led it while it was still 5.9. 5.10 is hard. Am I back to budding? nuts. Aug 14, 2001

Kreighton, you must have been a lawyer in a past life :) I haven't been cross-examined in a while. As noted in a previous comment, I'm happy to leave the grade of the whole climb as 5.9. That said, and since you asked for it: P2 will be 5.9 if you have a simian wingspan. If you have a normal wingspan and are out of shape like me, the pitch will still be 5.9, but it will feel a whole hell of a lot like some 10a climbs you may have done, with sparse and finicky protection throughout. A budding 5.9 trad leader is likely to be uncomfortable. Aug 13, 2001

Geez Darin, is that P2 5.9 or 5.9+?? Inquiring minds want to know! Interestingly, the lower traverse appeared to have two options: traverse on the heavily chalked holds with bad feet (hard, I think those are sucker holds) or higher up with feet on the chalked holds and thin hands. If you have a long reach, you might be able to reach from the bomber right hand over to the left edge, but it was a balancy move for short lil' me. The bolt, if you're a scaredy cat, will protect the 5.9 moves. Just climb up, clip it with a long runner, and then back down and do the traverse. This works best with double ropes, but there is pretty much no gear for the left rope except for a shitty nut placed in the worst of the sucker holds. I thought P2 of this route was tough, a bit hard to protect and "definitely 5.9"...whatever...YMMV Aug 13, 2001

Thanks for bursting my bubble, Steve - and I thought I was just a better climber than I was when I did the route the first time a few years ago. Actually, I was perfectly happy to keep the rating at 9, and wasn't even aware of the "new" 10a rating until I looked at someone else's BC guidebook. There are still plenty of good and honorable sandbag 9's left, though. 5.9 is a bit ephemeral anyway - could be anything from 5.8+ to 10c. The only thing more uncertain is "easy third class". Jul 13, 2001

Would grade this as 5.10, the crux on P2 with its dicy traverse with the potential of a pendulum or long wipper is a good 5.10, rest of that pitch is 5.8+ Doug B Jul 9, 2001

P2 variation: instead of going right into the left-facing flake and then up to the traverse(s), go directly up from the belay to get on a good ledge (left of flake). Above is an upside-down V cracks in the slightly past vertical face. Climb the left crack (way thin... RPs and small Aliens) and some face holds to the left of that. The crux is at the top of the V, pulling over the bulge (.10+?). This ramp goes to a ~.8 crack (with crappy bush in the middle) for about 15 feet to the normal belay. I am not sure what this variation is, but it is difficult and fun (please confirm). I think is a more direct option than risking the scary pendulums.... Jun 26, 2001

Rossiter rates this a 10a in the more recent BC guide. Interestingly, he puts the 10a crux at the initial traverse out of the hand crack, where I indicated "P1 crux (5.8)". OK, maybe the move was harder than 8, but I'm not sure its 10a. I might go along with 10a on the upper pitch, though. Also, I noted that the bolt on top of the right-leaning ramp was "off route". This is only partially true. It is off route if you take the 9+ traverse in the middle of the ramp and climb to the pin. It is right on route if you climb to the top of the ramp and then make a 10a traverse to the same point. Apparently there used to be an old star-drive located at this spot, replaced with the current bomber bolt a few years ago by a civic-minded Neptune employee. Jun 5, 2001

Wonderful line, didn't look as fun as it was! Get on this. Aug 1, 2016

There is also a sit start to this coming in from the start of The Citadel that goes at V7. May 1, 2012

Video: youtube.com/watch?v=mz5wqWf… Feb 4, 2012

We climbed this today and finished on the crux moves of Atlas Shrugged. Not sure if this is correct but if done this way, wouldn't it make this 5.11d? Either way, good crux moves on this route into awesome crux moves of Atlas Shrugged. Edit: clearly the way we climbed it is not the correct line, although it makes for a very good route. Aug 21, 2014

Not a squeeze job in the slightest. Super fun route! A little heady around the third bolt with that ledge looming beneath you. I blew it and landed right on it. Totally mellow fall though! If you get nervous about that, don't be. Just enjoy the fun, techy climbing. Aug 2, 2016

What a great route. Excellent face moves down low and then a superb balancy crux to arête climbing. A worthy addition! You could top rope it, but...why? Leading this route will put a smile on your face! Nov 16, 2013

This is a great route! And reasonably protected. It's too bad you kinda have to start on Curving Crack, but that doesn't make it a squeeze job; the rest of the route has spectacular, independent climbing. Very worthwhile addition. I can't believe I never climbed it before. I do wonder about all the hammer (?) marks all over one of the middle bolts?? Nov 4, 2013

Tried it today fanlly on TR! And got worked! Lol. Great line. Wild blunt arête and face climbing. Sep 6, 2012

Great sport route requires thought and precision. Not over bolted or squeezed like may Boulder Canyon sport routes. I look forward to losing weight and trying to lead. Mar 27, 2012

To the above, the obvious retort is "maybe so, but nobody bolted Gill Crack." For my own part, I can see this one going either way. The lead is different that a TR because you have to get stances to clip on lead, whereas you can just slap away on TR. However, I can see it feeling a bit close to Curving Crack too. Too bad it's not a few feet further away such that it would be evaluated more on it's own merit, as the climbing is actually pretty novel and interesting. But where it is is where it is and the historical precedent of the climbs surrounding it leave it in a compromised position. The climbing is all tension and slopers. Mid-5.11 sounds about right. I don't think 11a nor 11d. Oct 15, 2011

It is NOT a squeeze job or whatever. It is a pretty good route, pretty well bolted. Does not need any more or any less bolts. Definitely a good addition to Castle Rock. "One can easily toprope this line".... I am sorry, but this is dumb. One can easily toprope Gill Crack, but many people actually lead it or boulder. Sep 13, 2011

I agree, super fun line that definitely adds to Castle Rock. If it were only a toprope line, I never would have been interested in it. May 26, 2011

Great route. My partner used the arete to move past the second bolt and then straight up past it second go round. Awesome sloper slapping up and super crimp pulling. Short but sweet. IMHO, NOT a squeeze job at all as you can't use either crack to protect this climb on lead in any way. If you want to argue that it should have been top roped only, fine, but how many people go out looking to TR stuff? I see no problem here. Mar 13, 2010

Did not get a chance to climb this line today but saw it for the 1st time and thought it looked great!! I can't wait to climb it and it looks like it has plenty of room to be a great line on its own. Looks like fun. Nice work!! Jan 31, 2010

While possibly "a sqeeze job" at first site, this route climbs extremely well. The bolts in no way impede on routes to the right or left. It looks to be about 5.8 but certainly feels like 11b once you're on it. I was glad to clip each bolt, especially the last one. A worthy addition; put in by a guy who has been a silent steward of Castle Rock for some time now. Aug 12, 2009

I agree with the poster above that these bolts are placed in extremely poor taste. This is a squeeze line placed adjacent to ultra-classic clean lines pioneered in the early 1960s. These bolts are immediately left of Curving Crack and the route name does not match the write-up above. Will the person who placed these bolts please take it upon themselves to carefully remove these bolts without damaging the rock any more than they already have? That would show some integrity. Aug 29, 2008

The actual Headline is the route/project that branches left of Deadline and is probably 5.14. Maybe a renaming of whatever the 5.11 is would be in order? Mar 10, 2008

Has Headline actually been redpointed yet? Dec 14, 2007

Access issues? what!? in Boulder Canyon? you gotta be kidding. It's Boulder Canyon, land of the bolted cracks!!! Yeah!!! Welcome to Boulder Canyon!!!! Aug 22, 2007

What is the bolted route directly to the right of Comeback Crack? It goes up maybe 4 or 5 bolts to a two bolt anchor to the best of my recollections Jun 25, 2007

The 12a slab crux on the second pitch can be bypassed by traversing right, moving up to a headwall, and underclinging back left. Fun moves, but not recommended on lead. Done this way, the pitch becomes solid 5.11 with the crux at the second bolt. Lots of great moves on this pitch, but it needs more cleaning. Jun 26, 2006

Continue up the sloping arete left to the apex for the "surface tension extension". Fun, big-ish move at the end. Nov 28, 2010

The grade's the same. Nov 28, 2010

I ran down to the boulder to try Surface Tension, the starting holds had been busted off and laying right under the route. Bummer! Maybe it will still go, but it's way difficult now. Jun 2, 2009

Start has broken as of two weeks ago.... I just saw the damage, sorry, all the parts of the start are gone, no more glue wahoo! May 16, 2009

Fun route but not recommended for a 5.10 leader unless you are comfy bouldering. There is a way for short people to do this. Ok, beta spew here for the vertically challenged, because of its unprotected start.... Use the amazingly good left foot, a higher right hand hold, and your inner thigh muscles to slowly elevate to good crimps (left hand) right of all that chalk on the rail. Phew, now breathe and continue to the bolt via the hand traverse, with spotter below you. :) May 27, 2011

David Goldstein, the reason that it's done in 2 pitches is because someone (Captain Publicservice?) put in a bolt station there about 15 years ago. May 6, 2010

I think I know where the name, Tongo, came from. In the sixties Hanna-Barbera had a kid's entertainment hour on TV called The Banana Splits. A regular feature was a show called Danger Island. Whenever the tree-swinging, Tarazan-like, hero came to the rescue everyone would cry out: "Uh oh, Tongo!". The hero's name was really Chongo, but google reminded me that most of us heard is as Tongo. It would be really cool to find out from Pat Ament where the name came from. This route sorta makes me feel like a tree-swinging chimp. Sep 10, 2009

The climb is probably soft for 5.11- if you are of average height or taller, but the bottom section is hard for shorter people (<5'6"). This climb is probably a 5.11a modern sport grade or old-school 10d. May 23, 2006

Ben Mottinger said, "If you do just the first pitch, it is straight fwd 10a to the chains." I strongly diagree. If you're a 10a climber you don't want to be leading this pitch. Compared to the 10a sport and mixed routes being put up these days, the first pitch of Tongo is on another planet in terms of difficulty. Although technically more difficult, I had an easier time leading P2 than P1. Speaking as a tall person with no recent experience as a short person, I would think that the start of P1 and the crux on P2 would be very difficult for shorter than average people (e.g. most women), although thin fingers might make up for lack of reach on P2. For all you Crack n Up fans (there must be some?), I placed a very good beefy Crack'n Up above the obvious brass nuts to proctect the moves off the ledge on P2. It made me feel better. I placed 4 pieces at the crux (after reading of Bill Wright's winger) including a tipped out #1 Camalot in the "hole" at the roof. A #2, if it fits though the opening, would be better. Also got a very good aluminum HB offset way high, giving a toprope at the crux. Question: How hard is the left start to P1? Looks real hard to me. Feeling old suddenly.... Looked in my old guidebooks and see that the first (and only other) time I did Tongo was in October '77, my first semester here in grad school. Apr 3, 2005

I, and I think most people, actually start on "After Forever" (#32 in Rossiter's book). Make a move or two up up the slab just left of the start for "Atlas Shrugged". Then pop up and left (harder for short people) to handrail left along a 10' long ledge and then mantel up at it's left side. At this point you can clip the bolt (1st pro on the pitch). Climb straight up to the fixed pin on "Tongo" and then continue to angle up and right with that route. This is a very enjoyable route!Don't forget to TR "Atlas Shrugged" now that you have the rope up. You can get a directional for that up high with a med tcu, or just go for the big swing if you fall. Apr 25, 2003

If you do just the first pitch, it is straightforward 10a to the chains. Apr 14, 2003

I tried to link this route as one pitch since the second pitch was so short. I put in what I thought was a bomber red Alien straight up underneatth the roof and then couldn't figure out how to do the crux. If you know the trick this move isn't that bad and it is really just one move or two, but it was too much for me to onsight and I pitched off. I pulled the Alien and fell about 30+ feet (missing the ledge thankfully and I'm not sure how I missed it) and was caught by the draw clipped to the first belay anchors. It was quite exciting when the piece blew, but I didn't hit anything at all - steep up there. Aug 30, 2002

The first pitch is S. The second pitch is about 20' long and might be the softest 11a trad pitch in the canyon. Not sure why it isn't done as 1 pitch; maybe because of risk of hitting ledge after rope stretch. There are chains at the first belay and large rap hangers at the second. Atlas Shrugged can be top roped from the chains at the end of p1. Aug 29, 2002

This used to be a fun little pitch of aid back in the day. I'd like to add a shout out to Bob Sandefer who was my instructor back in 1971 when I took the Colorado Mountain Club climbing class. This is the only route I know of with his name on it, but he climbed many obscure routes back in the '60s without recording them. Bob had a prodigious knowledge of little known (at the time) climbing areas and left only an occasional fixed pin in the cracks to remind us of his many ascents. Jan 12, 2017

This is an awesome little route deserving of more attention. Similar in style, albeit much harder, to the "first" pitch of CCC. I'm not sure if it has lost holds since the FFA, but it's definitely 5.13 in its current state. I'd call the opening boulder V8 or V9. It involves a tricky stab to a mono and then a creative gaston/thumb catch. This sequence will be very hard for the short. The upper half of the pitch consists of fun 5.12 finger crack climbing. Bring a single set to 0.75 and a few small wires for the crack portion. Move right (not left) at the top of the crack to an anchor on Radio Armada. It would be easy to work the opening boulder problem on toprope from the anchor atop "pitch one" of CCC with a few directionals. Nov 13, 2016

This is a really fun line that should not be missed. I feel it does not get the attention that it deserves since it's located next to one of the hardest most classic lines in Boulder Canyon. A friend and myself worked on this problem for a little while today and found it to be a technical, powerful, steep and overall entertaining problem with a very committing finishing top-out. I plan to go finish this one soon and I encourage others to go check this hog out!!! BRING LOTS OF PADS AND SPOTTERS!!! THE LANDING IS ROUGH!!! Aug 25, 2009

The pro on this is not textbook. Safe lead for people well into the grade, but it is not the sort of thing to be pushing oneself on. Jul 28, 2012

I led the first pitch yesterday and found it quite enjoyable. This was my wife's first lead belay and her sister's first climb. Perfect route for a beginner to follow. The rock seems mostly solid. I didn't find any loose pieces, though I'm very used to climbing loose rock from years of climbing at Pinnacles (California). I think there might be one move of 5.6 on the regular start, though I doubt I could really discern the difference from 5.5, so I'll defer to the crowd on the rating. The bolts and chains were solid. Gear placement on the pitch was pretty straightforward. I did come up with a booty piece (someone left a nut about 3/4 of the way up which I used on the way up, and it came out easily when I cleaned the pitch). Nov 5, 2017

Got caught in the storm this afternoon and left a handful of items on West Face. Two slings and two carabiners - one set at the top, one set in the middle notch (made it into three pitches). I also left my shoes at the base and would love to have them back! Relatively new La Sportiva Finales, probably right at the base of the crag. Contact pacspake@gmail.com if found. Jul 21, 2017

Found a cam about 3/4 of the way up the first pitch on Saturday 6/3; PM me if it was yours. Jun 6, 2017

I'd echo Charles' questions about the route. I did it in three pitches, and on the last pitch, you are rewarded with multiple options up. There is a chimney which is probably the 5/6 way. An offwidth that popped out my shoulder and a crack in the left with some interesting moves that is certainly harder than 6. It's weird to discuss in depth 3 sections of no more than 12 feet of climbing, but I would also be curious about the official way (chimney at right, I'm guessing?) and the ratings of the others. Specifically, that damn OW. -- ALSO -- There are no rap-rings (that I could find), and the walkoff kind of sucks, because it's more of a downclimb. If you don't think you can do 5.4 moves in reverse, maybe plan on burning some gear. Edit to add: looks like the route goes significantly to the right of where I was. Maybe that explains all the lichen.... Aug 8, 2016

Did in 4 pitches (to true summit) to minimize rope drag and communication issues. Good pro at every pitch. P1. Up to bolted anchor - simple 5.5 with ample pro. P2. Up left just past the tower on the right, good anchor stance to the left of small pine tree. P3. This is where it got confusing - we found ourselves looking up at chimney to the right, v-slot above and crack to the left. None of the past descriptions indicated which line to follow. Ended up doing zig zag, between the v-slot and left onto face and crack. Slot felt like the crux. Anchor where leveled out above. P4. Up the short crack on the right to false summit, then 4th class to the summit. Anyone have ratings specific to each option going left of the the tower and past the pine tree? 1) Far left crack. 2) V-slot. 3) Chimney to the right. Thanks! Jul 18, 2016

Yep, gotta watchout for them snakes! Oct 26, 2015

I lead this on October 24th 2015, and it seemed like a really nice route. As others have said, there are a couple of places where you can get a little off route, but if you generally hang right without going over anything too hard, it's not bad. I did not notice the loose rock that others had mentioned. I also didn't notice any snakes; however, I have seen snakes in the area, so it's probably worth keeping an eye out. Oct 26, 2015

Did this route yesterday and it's definitely a decent climb if you're still fairly new to trad. I took a few friends up with me who don't climb much on gear, and it was a fun climb for the grade. I'd definitely recommend breaking this up into three pitches and building a belay right behind the "tower" above pitch one anchors, otherwise rope drag is awful. We didn't go directly to the summit, but there's a great tree to belay off of on the flat north side. The summit can be still reached from there with a small scramble around the back side. The downclimb to the rap anchor isn't bad, just take your time (head towards the road). You'll see the tree with chains around it about 25-30ft down. May 29, 2014

Started in the chimney and it wasn't too bad. Giving it a higher rating, because the second pitch is pretty stout for a 5.5. All in all, fun route. The "walkoff" on the back is more of a 5.4 downclimb. For those who do not enjoy down climbing, on my way down I did see a tree with a chain on it about 15 feet down the back side. Requires a little down climbing to get to the tree, but then after that you can rap down if you so choose. Sep 8, 2013

When you get to the top of the first pitch (past the bolts at the tree and up through the slot, to the perch behind the small tower); look right and you'll see a short hand/fist crack facing you in a dihedral. It's not listed anywhere, but it takes pro well, is relatively clean, probably goes at 5.7, and also takes you to the summit via another interesting and wandering line. Move your belay down below this crack onto a lower perch and try this crack. It's a fun variation if you've already done the regular second pitch. *But beware of the beachball-size boulder teetering on that perch. It's kinda wedged in, but it definitely wobbles and would wreak havoc on anything/anyone below.** Apr 14, 2013

Not a bad route for a somewhat cold day when you are in Nederland and have little opportunity to climb elsewhere and there's some beer to be drunk. The hardest part was the snow covered downclimb. Apr 23, 2011

Not a bad beginner route because it offers some nice variety. Usually I do it in two pitches with no problem. With a 60 meter it is easy to reach the notch belay without too much rope drag. From there it is a relatively short pitch to the top. Note that the descent is not as trivial as the initial description would indicate. (Especially in the dark!) Do some route finding (trend north) and a few tricky downclimbing moves (no harder than 4th class or you are off route) and locate the rappel tree with anchor chains. Easy rappel to the ground from here and short walk back to the base. Jun 17, 2009

Definitely not classic, but a fun multi-pitch route to take newer climbers up. When I climbed it, instead of going strait up the groove, I opted for the spicier (5.7?) line that ascends the face directly right of the groove to the right of the true start to the West Face - this alternative doesn't protect as easily. I broke the whole route into 3 pitches to try and avoid some of the apparently unavoidable rope drag. The down-climbing to get off the top could be a little sketchy for a new climber or someone who is uncomfortable with exposure. All in all a fun climb. Apr 29, 2009

To descend, walk north from the middle of the large level area on the north side of Castle Rock below the summit to third class terrain. Find the slab gently downsloping to the east; at the edge of the cliff, find a vertical pinch about 20 inches high; if you look carefully, there is a gap behind it maybe 2 inches wide, just wide enough to fish a piece of webbing through. This can be used as a rappel anchor. From here, you can rappel directly to the eastern tree on the ledge about 60 feet below, or lower your partner(s) and downclimb. Alternatively, downclimb the cliff and slab following the wall on your right, make a left turn around a 4 inch tree, downclimb five feet of vertical rock, and get to the middle tree on a large ledge with three large trees. Proceed east along the ledge about 25 feet to the eastern most tree which has an old rusty rappel anchor chain around it (probably best to backup this chain with webbing). Rappel 95 feet to easy walkoff terrain. Alternatively, you can end the rappel at about 70 feet, and then downcliimb the last 25 feet to easy walkoff terrain. Have fun, Tom Stocker Aug. 4, 2008 Jun 30, 2008

Climbed this route today, and we couldn't clean a cam on the 5.7+ variation of the first pitch. It's an old school Wild Country Friend about a half inch in size. It walked itself deep into a crack and over-cammed, I spent a half hour trying to get it then lowered my partner who also spent a half hour trying to clean it. It's practically an antique and I doubt anyone would want to use it, but I'd appreciate it back. As for the climb, it's not bad, quite a bit of loose rock though, and I would call the variation we did barely 5.6 not 5.7+. Sep 8, 2007

Not a great route but not a horrible one either. I personally feel like it would be a great beginner route. On the second pitch (relative I know) head up the wider crack with the choke stone and not the thin crack that goes straight up. Also, from the notch above what is the obvious second pitch, it is possible to head up a couple chimneys and some random face moves to make the climb end on the summit proper. This is probably off route but it puts you on the summit as opposed to the traditional end of the route (a ledge short of the top). A great night time climb, preferably when it's pouring rain. Apr 18, 2007

Deceptively hard for the rating. In general it is no more than 5.2 or so, but there are some dicey moves on each pitch that raise the average rating to 5.5. In particular, route finding off the first belay is interesting. The protection is there, but it won't be real comforting for a beginning leader. P3 features either an exposed, runout slab, a grunt chimney, or an interesting off-width. Jul 5, 2006

I'm a beginning trad leader and thought it was a good climb. Tons of good placements. Did it in 2 pitches, p1 to bolts. Lots of rope drag with the long p2 - it sets up well for 3 short pitches. If you're bringing up noobs, keep in mind the nontrivial downclimb. I ended up lowering my second. May 17, 2006

I did some research online and found out that rattlers can live as high as 10000 ft. and that it was common seeing them in the fall. I guess he was headed home for the winter.If it was a bull snake he sure did a good job of sounding like one big pissed off rattlesnake!! We have kicked around several ideas even a bird dropping the thing on the route. Thanks for the input, After this experience I think anything is possible....JC Nov 1, 2005

Also being serious, are you sure it wasn't a bull snake, they can live at higher elevations and try to mimic rattlesnakes... Nov 1, 2005

Dear AC, October is prime rattlesnake season at Castlewood Canyon, but I am surprised to learn that they are still active twelve miles up Boulder Canyon! Nov 1, 2005

Did the 5.7+ route in the picture. We climbed it 2 days ago. I was the 3rd person up and while at the belay the 2nd almost got bit by a rattlesnake!!! In late October on the West Face of the Castle two pitches up a rattlesnake. Can anyone explain this? Wildlife Alert: super pissed off rattlesnake in the dark chimney above the 7+ in this picture!!!! Beware until first hard freeze!!!No I'm not kidding. Oct 31, 2005

One of the crappiest climbs I have ever done...if you want to waste your time feel free but the canyon has a lot better to offer! Sep 15, 2005

Climbed this route yesterday, very fun. I am a beginning leader, and I have to agree with the previous comment about loose rock, etc. This is not a real friendly beginner lead. We did the route in 3 pitches, which seemed to work well. Belayed at the tree and at the ledge in the notch. At one point I grabbed a seemingly bomber flake, and felt it move... I have climbed 5.6's that felt easier. May 17, 2004

There is a good line between West Face and PLS up the obvious cracks and through a small roof. Same belay at the rings. May 8, 2004

I chose the right version, it's fun and well worthwhile. Some kind of 10- seems about right. Jun 24, 2014

Replaced remaining bolts with 1/2" hardware, and a new anchor Nov 16, 2017

I think this is 11a, but the crux is short and near the top. Lower, the route is easier but still hard 5.10. Sep 21, 2014

Not 11a. Hard though. Balancy and strenuous. I replaced the two bolts on this about a year ago. Also took out the pin that was hiding a perfect purple Metolius. The top anchors must be seen to be believed. Aug 7, 2012

This is more fun than the other 5.9 at the cliff. Sep 21, 2014

I don't think this deserves a bomb, but it is not great. Maybe a good warm-up for the crag, but it is not a destination climb. The crux is near the top, and the rest felt about 5.7 in difficulty. Sep 24, 2014

I top roped this, and I saw no gear placements at the bottom as is described above. The climbing is kind of fun, but the route is very short. Sep 21, 2014

There is new 1/2" hardware on the bottom three pieces. This route is awesome now! It got cleaned up a bit and the old bolts (buttons) removed/replaced. THREE bomber bolts now lead to a few small pieces in the upper crack. Super safe and fun climb! PG-13 at worst and about mid-5.11! I'd give it 3 stars personally. Nov 16, 2017

Now this has 1/2" hardware with a new anchor. It feels more like 5.11- these days. Nov 16, 2017

Some not-so-great gear, to say the least. Not something you'd send a newbie trad leader up on, by any means. Feb 29, 2016

Others called this route "dirty" in the past. It is not very dirty right now. I agree with the "off camber" comment though. The crux is near the top but only a few moves in length. Sep 21, 2014

Not the real name. Also, Emma's last name should be Salmon, not Watson. Mar 13, 2016

Did this climb this evening. It is pretty darn dirty. Lots of mouse poop and stuff in the crack. That being said, it wasn't terrible. There is a great view from the top! Could be a fun when it cleans up. Good jams at the top, but it's short. May 25, 2016

Not the name. Mar 13, 2016

This is a fun climb, but it is awkward below the second bolt. The holds here are small and the move committing. I think it may feel harder than 10- for some. I saw a new sequence I will do at the crux if I ever do it again. Sep 24, 2014

I find that this climb is somewhere in the lower 5.11 grade. Way too much fun, but I jumped on it without any guide for a flash attempt and ended up projecting it, and it should have been well within my limits. Pro is very tricky. My blue TCU popped out. But overall, a very fun climb. Sep 19, 2012

Good line to practice clean aid (duh). A camhook helps get through the crux about 15 feet up. For a nice 2nd and 3rd pitch, you can link with the the first bit of the second pitch of Night Vision up to the two pitons and then follow up East Crack to a good belay, then fire for the summit. I found a hook very useful on the 2nd pitch below the small roof. C2, C2+ for the first pitch, C1-C2 for the rest. No gear bigger than a #3 Camalot. Aug 21, 2011

After sending Gill Crack about a month ago, I thought 10d finger crack would not be such a big deal, but I was wrong. This route is HARD. Crux is 12-15ft up, and feet are much less than desired. Pro is not easy, but a lot of possibilities exist. Jul 21, 2010

Went here today to practice aid (nuts and cams only), and it was gorgeous. Even though it was always in the shade, the bottom of the route was dry and I was fine with themals and a jacket. Check it out if the warmth sticks around. Jan 19, 2009

The route is basically over after the first 18 feet, in fact there is a perfect no hands rest before the upper crux which isn't a give me, but you need to get past those initial 18 feet regardless, right Mr. Mills? Nov 18, 2008

This route does not lend well to larger hands...I have kind of a meat hook syndrome, so "tips" becomes very literal. My friend can lock into secure jams most of the time on this where as once I leave the ground I feel like I am twisting the hell out of my fingernails and getting no purchase whatsoever. The route is essentially over once you are about 18 feet up in my opinion. There is FAN TASTIC climbing above, but compared to the section you've just forced your way up the top half seems 5.9-, even going straight up rather than bear-hugging with the right edge of Huston. Sep 25, 2008

Nice line. This route seems to be finger width dependent. Those folks with skinny fingers will find the jams solid and trustworthy. The meatier-fingers might have a bit more trouble with them jams. Jun 27, 2004

Easily one of my favorites. I've done this about four times now and don't see getting tired of it. The gear is great if you're good at placing it. I can sew it up and still have everything bigger than a blue Alien. I've never needed RPs on it and only use one medium to small nut. It works if you wait till after your fingers are done using the placements before stuffing gear in them. A good challenge for the grade. Doing the .10a thin crack up the face makes an excellent 2nd pitch.S Jun 16, 2004

First 15' is indeed pretty stiff for 10+, but maybe accurate if comparing to some polished pinscarred route in the Valley. Was it Church Bowl Tree, Matt, the "valley's greasiest climb"? Too chickenshit to lead, I toproped and placed gear. Bomber and adequate gear can be found, but not so obvious. Strong climbers at that grade should not have trouble placing appropriate gear. excellent balancy fingercrack. Someday i would like to combine with East Crack... Jul 21, 2003

Agreed that the lower section is rather 11ish. The pro is solid, although strenuous to place in spots. And speaking from experience, a black Alien and a #2 RP will hold a fall here. Jul 18, 2003

Well, I haven't done a lot of hard granite crack climbing in the upper .10/.11 range, but compared to everything ELSE I've climbed in that range, this felt way harder than any .10d I've ever been on. For that matter, it even felt harder than the .11's I've been on. The start was pretty cruxy, but even more so was this funky section just after getting established with a piece after the start. The jams were like flared slopers and the moves with the feet were strenuous, to say the least. After that it seemed pretty straightforward until the top, which was the easiest of 3 cruxes to me. Oh, and the gear is bomber if you place well, and are confident on smaller stuff like RPs. Overall an excellent climb Jul 18, 2003

The upper 10d crux felt much easier to me than the start. A previous comment said the bottom felt like 11 if the hand crack was avoided. I would agree with that statement. Jul 18, 2003

This was my first climb in boulder canyon and I felt it was one of the coolest finger cracks around. the crux is full on tips jamming(possible 11a)and actually took good gear. the falcon guide book gives it the "s" rating, which I totally diasagree with. Great finger crack!!! Jun 27, 2003

I know that the "crux" is almost certainly different during a lead, but for me (on toprope) the hardest moves felt like they were right at the top, where the crack became a little too narrow to jam. The lower moves seemed pretty straightforward. Jan 1, 2003

I would call this 11- the first 15 feet, if you stay out of the hand crack to the left. Feet are tricky and and gear placement is strenuous. Also, I thought the gear was was limited about 15 feet up, just before the climbing eases a bit, so be careful if you are pushing it. Jun 24, 2002

8/30/2001. An excellent line, although aided extensively by the notion of the pinscars on the route, which decreases the star rating I am sure. Be confident on hanging while scoping for gear on this one, or you may take those whippers on the small rp's. Sustained climbing with adequate protection. Before the final push place a small cam, or funky nut, as high as possible (by good laybacking fingers). This crack is very nice, with many great feet on the face, just look closely, and watch the polished crack with the feet a little dicey.... overall I would rate it 2 stars as well. Enjoyed.. Aug 30, 2001

While some might think that is a bummer that someone removed a bolt, other people don't appreciate the retro-bolting of an existing line. Not sure who did it, but in my mind, the removal was justified by the line's previous history and such action should be more or less expected when someone plunks a bolt into a documenteed pre-existing line without some sort of consensus or agreement of the FA party. Jul 6, 2009

Hi Guys, Someone removed the lowest bolt so this is no longer a sport climb. Please update the description. Kind of a bummer for climbers who are trying to break into trad by honing our skills on sport routes. Thanks, Ben Jul 2, 2007

The first hanger is still MIA. It is a bit strangely bolted, but I want to go back and do it to the top, on gear the whole way. Or, I'm thinking it'd be a tough elmiminate to climb direclty up the bolt line, offrouting all the big stuff out R. Jun 20, 2007

I just climbed this on Sunday, not knowing what it was. I led it as one long pitch (160') to the top, veering right to join trad route with occasional fixed gear. I thought it was great and felt like 5.10. The first hanger was missing, but cams work just as well. I was drawn to the route more by the crack above the slung horn than by the bolted face. Going to the top makes this a great route rather than just another sport climb. Aug 17, 2004

As of 8/12/03, the first hanger is missing. The stud is sticking out about 1.5" so you can still loop a wired stopper on it. Check the slings thoroughly before you rap; They're looking a little tattered. Good route! Aug 13, 2003

I did this route a few years back, and I lead it again last night after it got retrobolted. I skipped the bolts this time. Last night I continued up the crack past the anchor for quite some ways before moving slightly left and finishing the rest of the rock on the arete. This is one long pitch. Done this way the bolted section felt like 5.10a (it felt that way before it was bolted too), the moves for the next 15' are 5.8, and then there is a 5.10b crux above pro when the side-pulls and feet peter out at the same time. From there the route gets more slabby (5.8?) for a while, with so-so pro. When you encounter a broken area and some leaning flakes on the arete to the left, move onto the arete and charge for the top. The arete here is nice and goes 5.9, VS if you are not skipping off to the sides at the final bulge. If you don't liek the runout, you could move hard right at the final bulge and clip the fixed pins with long runners before pulling it there. This is as for Northwest Corner. Very nice. Jun 13, 2002

This route is the line of Brownies In The Basin. This was first led by Rob Candelaria back in the '70s. I led this about ten years ago (at 5.9 X). Gear includes a couple RPs (did not have Aliens then), some ways below the crux. To my knowledge some others have led this too, including Chris Archer. No one has fessed up to this retro-bolting, anyone know who did this? Having said all this, it it certainly a more fun lead with the bolts, and I for one would not particularly like to see them removed. Maybe just for folks to check their guidebooks before drilling! Also watch out, my head got attacked by a falling Stopper while finishing this pitch. It may only have been a #12, but it sure felt like a #48. Painful! Sep 29, 2001

Nice addition to Cob. I'm 5'10" and no dyno required. Looking at the photo, I'm sure I used a different sequence. I appreciated that where good gear was available, no bolts were placed. May 16, 2006

The move turning the overhang at the second bolt is the crux. I did a dyno to the good incut edge above the bolt, and I'm 6'1". Shorter climbers may find this move more like 11a or 11b. Above, steep but moderate (8 to 9) climbing leads to the anchor. Nov 8, 2005

Wow! This will be my first route comment. Not to say others I have climbed were less worthy, just that this was a pretty big lead for me. A big confidence builder, and one hell of a good time! What a sweet line. I gotta say though, I disagree about the "sketchy" gear. I have one word and I'll say it three times: NUTs, nuts, nuts! It's all I placed (besides the perfect black Alien) and the cracks ate them up like candy. PERFECT, bomber placements. However, they are a bit "tricky" to place only because of the thin ass stances at which you must place them...you must be quick...decisive and keep moving, but it's all there. Anyway, loved it. Gonna have to do it again, via Night Vision. May 24, 2013

I didn't bring enough small gear for this route, so for me the protection was poor. But the corner at the beginning is definitely runout with injury fall potential. Also there is a loose rock at the top of the last pitch (end of the 5.7 crack) that could easily come out and cause trouble. Aug 16, 2012

I'll second (and third for that matter) the option to climb straight up off the belay (as for Night Vision) up the thin crack and traverse right underneath the roof and get back into East Crack after a few 5.8 moves. I thought 5.10b was a pretty accurate difficulty rating for this climb considering I have bigger fingers but still really enjoy thin finger cracks. I stayed primarily in the crack and thought the gear was great and everywhere I needed it to be. However, if you're uncomfortable climbing above thin gear, this might not be the route for you. Beautiful climbing and a nice position. Jul 15, 2012

I definitely agree with the above comments concerning sketchy gear. the placements leading up to the crux are mediocre at best. If you were to blow the crux move and zipper, good placements lower will definitely hold. It still makes for a spicy lead. The climbing itself is great. Jun 14, 2012

I placed two #3 stoppers, two green Aliens, and one blue Alien throughout the pitch above the roof. The gear is where it needs to be(kind of), although I found placing the gear very challenging and difficult. Indeed, the crack gets progressively harder until the piton (the pin could be 4-6 feet lower in my opinion). The finger crack on the third pitch is worth the effort. Jul 20, 2008

As Chad's comment notes, it is easier to climb and protect this route by beginning left of the small dihedral. From there I traversed under the step roof and pulled over on the right getting back in line with East Edge. From there, instead of taking the pin-scarred crack, I climbed more or less straight up using a variety of cracks and edges. Certainly this is the line of least resistance on the left side of Cob Rock but watch what you pull on up there as there are numerous loose flakes that are difficult to avoid and could do a lot of damage if they came off. Jul 20, 2008

Great climb, rack I used: RPs 5+ 4, to 00, a 0.5 (WC) cams, to pitons, a #8 stopper, #1(WC)cam, to a #2BD cam one 60m pitch, fun moves good gear 5.10a. Jul 10, 2007

The bolt that you saw is probably one of the bolts that got replaced on the second pitch of Night Vision (see comments there for details). Apr 1, 2006

Did somebody put a bolt on this thing...? Looked across today at it and it seemed like there was a new bolt below the fixed pin by 10 ft or so. Maybe a face variation, or from my perspective, it wasn't on the East Edge? I hope not! That route has great character and doesn't need anymore fixed gear on it. Mar 31, 2006

I led this route last week for the first time and really enjoyed it.We did the first pitch of Night Vision to start.I found the gear to be excellent and easy to place. Really fun route and a good after work excursion. Aug 9, 2004

To me, it made more sense to climb straight up to the roof just left of the belay. There is a thin crack system that offers plenty for small nuts. Once reaching the roof travers a couple of feet to the right until you can reach the good horizontal crack above the roof. I think this route can be sewn up with a set of RPs or micro stoppers. I didn't place a single cam on the whole pitch. Jun 24, 2002

There is a variation to this route, that I'm not sure has an established name or anything, but I'm sure it's been climbed before. Instead of starting up the left-facing corner into the overlap, it's possible to climb start about 6-8 ft. to the right. This leads up into incipient cracks with sparse pro above the overlap. Moves felt like hard .9 or easy .10, but it's been a while, so I'm not sure my memory serves correctly. Eventually, the pitch wanders up into easier, though steep ground with a nice crack and good pro. Pretty much the whole thing can be done in one long pitch. Once again, I'm not sure how much different this is from the East Crack described, but it seems to me that it's a different pitch altogether. Please anyone feel free to correct me or inform of the proper name for the climbing described. One quick note on bees on Cob. I have been up there on a day when some people knocked off a sizeable nest and there were bees all over the place. Crawling on my legs as I led the second pitch of Empor! Just please be careful of those pesky bastards, they're everywhere anyways, we don't need to climb through angry swarms. Apr 11, 2002

It was probably 6 years ago when I did this, but I recall the runout moves are at the start before the roof, where it is only 5.8-9. Another way to start this climb is the first pitch of Night Vision (10b, look for 2 bolts left of Huston's Crack). This is much easier than the 10d thin crack right of Huston's Crack, and doesn't require big cams and grunting like Huston's Crack. Nov 7, 2001

Well, this time Charles and I disagree on the Protection. Perhaps I was too tenuous to place, or perhaps it is my height, but I found myself struggling a bit for good gear on this route. My partner, who is shorter than I agreed that the gear was difficult or lacking. Then again, I normally climb in Eldo, not Boulder Canyon. The moves are very cool, however, and very worthwhile. Nov 6, 2001

By wandering back and forth quite a bit between the 3 cracks in all, one may be able to skip the cruxes of all of the lines and reduce the grade to a 5.9 or 5.9-. We referred to this as 'Eat It All.' Aug 9, 2015

I was climbing North Face Center today, and the party on Empor had to bail. We retrieved the gear for you, but more importantly I hope the leader is doing alright. Shoot me an email, and we can meet somewhere, so you can get your gear back. I will delete this comment as soon as possible as it's not really relevant to the route. Just want to give the gear back and figured this was the best place. Ben Pettys bpettys49@gmail.com Apr 8, 2017

Hey all, Got my rope stuck on the rappel down today 6/6/16. If anyone has the heart to undo it from the horn on their rap down and return it to me, it would mean the world. My phone number is 401-864-7675. Thanks so much for considering. Jun 6, 2016

Really fun route. My first time climbing trad and my first time climbing multi-pitch (I followed). Not a strong crack climber yet, so I had the most difficulty with what should have been the easiest part of the route - the top of the third pitch with hand jams for days. We did the route in 2 pitches and finished in the dark. Jun 1, 2016

@Jake - Empor was put up in the '50s, Grins in the late '70s. Mar 14, 2016

Felt harder than Grins (5.8) at Happy Hour Crag to me. Mar 12, 2016

Do the direct start from under the boulder, meaning stick in the dihedral and do not break right to follow the pins, a little harder, but... YOU GOT IT! Jul 26, 2014

There is a new rappel route from the summit. It was installed to help mitigate the degradation of the standard walk off, which is in major disrepair. There are two chain anchors near the summit, basically between the top of Empor and Northwest Corner . There is another rap station on a small ledge between those two routes for a second rappel. Two raps with one 60-meter rope gets you down. Aug 1, 2013

If you're not good at fist and hand jamming, like me, that zig-zag crack at the top is pretty scary, but there is good pro (Camalots #1-3), and the fall would be pretty safe. It definitely earns the "+". We soloed to the top of the start boulder and did the entire route in one long pitch with a 60m rope. I think it was close to all the rope though. A 70m rope would be more prudent for anchor building at the top. Rope drag wasn't really an issue, so if you're looking to get up and down quick, I'd say that's your best bet. Jun 10, 2013

Fantastic route! Inadvertently combined pitches 1 and 2 but glad it worked out that way; don't think there's anything harder than 5.5 on P2. The start of P1 is awesome; probably 5.9 and scary if you don't use the large boulder behind. But either way, stay in the dihedral. The moves in the corner, above the boulder, are fantastic and the gear is excellent! Jun 21, 2012

I loved this climb. The photo here shows a climber skirting around obvious dihedral that I thought was 5.8+. The 1960's 5.7 rating is not accurate in my opinion, and the route is dangerous if you don't protect well at the beginning as the start is exposed and potentially dangerous landing terrain. It is NOT a place for beginning 5.7 leader. I don't know how this is 5.7 when the Bastille is 5.7 and the crux moves here are much more sustained. I started climbing in Eldo in 1968, and I know what 5.8 is and I know 5.9. This first pitch is closer to the latter than the former. Sep 13, 2011

Spicy moves at the beginning made this seem a little harder than 7 for me. Still liked it a lot, great route. Sep 11, 2011

Climbed it this morning, crossed the creek up stream 50 or so yards of the parking lot. We opted for 3 pitches so my wife could lead the 2nd. 1st felt 5.7+ on the direct start. 2nd felt really light for 5.7, more like 5.5ish to me. A great line for a new leader for sure. Tons of feet, nice jambs, eats up #1 and #2 BD cams. 3rd. weird positions but bomber jambs with good feet. I'd call it 5.7+, it eats gear too. Cheers, Prod. Sep 11, 2010

This was my first-ever rock climb back in 1959, and after probably another 5-6 times over the intervening years still remains my favorite Boulder Canyon climb. Very high quality rock, decent exposure, fine climbing with great pro---what more could a person ask?! Sep 9, 2010

I'd bring stuff to 3.5" if I were just leading at this level. Also, the creek is way down, easy to cross, but the downstream tyrolean is definitely in. Love the last 7+ handcrack variant, way better than the slot. There are three fixed pins in the first couple of pitches. The first one looks pretty good, the next two, not so much. We did the first two pitches as one, bring several slings for this. Aug 18, 2010

The line that this picture shows Ben taking, while being the route, is not the most obvious line to me. I keep left, staying in the dihedral while working stems and great hand/finger jams. Feels about 5.8, and superfun the whole way. Protection is adequate (a bit tricky in the boulder cave though, so PG13.) Climbing the first pitch this way ties with the 5.7 zigzag crack on P3 for quality of climbing. I like to link P1-2 if I have a partner I'm confident can make it up without coaching. Aug 9, 2009

This is a fun route, the beginning is a little tricky, before you get to the ledge after the big boulder on the start, but I think most of the difficulties were in my head, as I am just starting to lead trad. The rest of the route is pretty easy. Big gear is helpful; I remember using a #4 Friend somewhere on P1. There is a nice horn you can sling for a protection point on the 1st anchor at the start of the face crack (P2), also be careful setting up the anchors as I noticed some loose blocks up there. Nov 5, 2007

We did this one starting from the crack below the boulder. We continued up the crack to the left from the top of the boulder. This was the most exciting section, with a phantom alien in there just to mess with you. It would make the route much more enjoyable if someone would go in there and pry that thing out. (I may do that in a few weeks when I get back. I though it was 5.9- for the "cave" section, but everywhere else was 5.7 or easier. Oct 8, 2007

Everyone climbs this one, and I see why, it's great. The start of it is a little tricky. Can also be done in one pitch 60m. Jul 10, 2007

Nice route, we did the first pitch from under the boulder, and there was maybe a move or 2 of 5.8 (but there is an easier variation to the right). I got to lead the last pitch which was really classic, good air, good gear, and good jams. Cruised it the whole time no problem, my buddy lead the Classic Dihedral at the Bucksnort Slab yesterday, and he thought this climb was quite a bit easier. Jun 17, 2007

I've only been leading this year and haven't lead anything harder than 5.9+. Having said that, the first pitch was tricky for me, and I had to stem to the boulder; the pro wasn't abundant, and the edges below didn't look fun for a fall. P2 seemed pretty straight forward, and I used plenty of stoppers for pro. We combined P1 and P2. P3 was a little tricky for me and there was plenty of exposure. Here, I used mainly cams for pro, #3 being the biggest. Overall, the climb was very cool, and I would recommend it! Please note, I was here about a month or so ago and there was a tyrolean. Today, it was gone which made the creek crossing interesting. Sep 10, 2006

The quickest way is to climb from next to the boulder, and link all the pitches finishing with the right angle crack in one long lead. A 60m works fine. Also, you can rappel from the 5.0 slot all the way to the ground by dropping right from the route. This only takes one 60m rope, but make sure to tie the ends, you will be at them when you step off! If you're worried about weather coming in, this is the quickest ascent (other than solo or simul). Jul 2, 2006

From reading the comments I guess we did the direct start. I remember it being harder than 5.7. We started parallel with the big boulder and there was a very airy move with no feet to get on the climb. Then on the second pitch there was a very difficult crack. I'm not a very good pure crack climber so I won't hazard a guess on the grade but I found it to be quite hard. Otherwise its an excellent climb, just be confident at a few grades above 5.7 to lead this one. Jun 8, 2006

I climbed this a time ago, but just wanted to post that I felt as though the 7+ last pitch was harder than Northface left on Cob, and to me harder than Huston Crack. Huston just eats your shoulder so easily, and the 7+ last pitch here is kind of tricky at some points to figure out. just my $.02 Nov 4, 2004

I lost a blue/gold Reverso at the base on 6/12/04. If anyone would come across it, I'd offer up a beer or two. Fun climb, last pitch a little scary for a beginning leader w/ zero crack climbing experience. Jun 14, 2004

I belayed a beginner leader on this yesterday (not his first lead, but close). He did the whole route in one pitch on a 60m rope, taking the easy version of pitch 3. He avoided rope drag by putting a piece off to the right where the route heads left up the slot. Actually, Will just didn't know where he was supposed to belay, and kept going up to a few feet below the top. I made him come back down so I could lead the 5.7+ pitch 3. Not having a sufficently large cam made it feel a lot harder than 5.7. Basically, the stance sucked where I put in a cam to protect the crux moves. With a #3 camalot or equivalent it would have been a breeze (I think). Great route. Great rock. Beautiful, solid granite. Reminds me of New Hampshire. Jun 11, 2004

I see the route description and Ben's photo indicate the route goes about 15' ro the West of the dihedral at some point. I always went straight up though. Anyone know if I'm stupid or is that the route? Given the great possibility that I'm stupid, anyone feel going straight up is harder than .7+? Sep 26, 2003

A way to ease uncliping on the tree side is to clip a separate sling wherever you can when you get over and then step onto the sling to releave your weight off of the biner you're used to slide across.Another way to give newbies some added comfort is to give them an ascender (or two) and clip to the rope on a pulley rather than just hang on a biner, less friction. Jul 16, 2003

One tyrolean trick is to not wear your pack, but to clip it to the rope and tether it to you with a sling. Thus you will be dragging it along. When you get to the other side, you will not have the added weight of the pack during the dismount. Jul 16, 2003

William:When doing a tyrolean with a heavy pack it helps to take the pack off your back, hang it on the line with a separate draw/carabiner and then put yourself on the line in front of it and tow the pack behind you using some long slings. Jul 16, 2003

Did this route the other day with a "newbie" leader. This one makes an EASY two pitch route. I started in the "cave" below the boulder, working the RF Dihedral/finger crack. A LOT of fun. Felt like a solid 5.8 start. The last pitch can feel a little sketchy (especially for new leaders). If you make the climb in 3 pitches, let them have the middle as a WONDERFUL beginner lead. Lots of fun on the Tyrolean as well. Thanks to whomever donated the rope (though the unclip on the southern side is a climb in itself...). Any ideas for awkward people with heavy gear aside from using the tree? Jul 16, 2003

This climb can easily be done in one nice long pitch. We started on top of the boulder and took the 5.0 left-angling crack. Belayed on top in a handsized crack just down from the tree.mike. Jun 3, 2003

It's pretty easy to boulder up the outside (north side) of the giant boulder at the base of the route, and the tree that's up there is a good spot to belay from. Pitch 2 would make a great first lead because there are lots of face holds, so you don't even need the crack for anything but putting in gear (really good gear too)). If you have some crack skills (i.e. you know how to make a hand jam) the last pitch is kind of awkward, but very secure and takes good gear - it's nice to have camalots 1 and 2 ready when you need them. Apr 27, 2003

Climbed this route yesterday and had a great time, though we started a bit higher than I think we were supposed to on top of the biggest boulder that is at the start where 3 pitons are (2 broken heads, 1 still complete). The dihedral below this boulder to the East seems like a better direct start. I also wandered off towards the route labeled as "8" in the photo, does anyone know the name/rating on that? When I got to the level of the "V" dihedral that heads to the "5.0" pitch I traversed across and finished off. It was an interesting variation for sure. Also, the top of the "5.0" section has a nice short crack that was good fun. Sep 30, 2002

My first climb ever in Boulder Canyon. It was a blast. We started from the west side of the boulder, just before the West Cracks area. I wasn't able to do it with the rack I was conned into carrying but it was a good alternative start. The first pitch or two are vastly different than the last. It is a sweet crack on the 5.7+ section. A great move over the bulge that you really have to experience yourself. It is also in the shade a good portion of the morning. I love this place. Aug 30, 2002

A 50m rope reaches the second belay as described above with no problem. Jun 19, 2002

Did the "Tour de Cob" yesterday, including Empor. We did the direct, dihedral starting below the boulder and avoided heading right but continued up and belayed where the dihedral opens up to the V-slot. Then, instead of taking the V-slot or the 7+ crack, we did some thin cracks to the right of the 7+ crack that are connected by a couple horizontal cracks. Has anyone done these? I am curious as to what other's thought the ratings of this might be. I thought it was 9ish. Jun 18, 2002

The first pitch seemed to be the most difficult of the three. Not the best pro, not the best feet, not the best landing but the best climbing. By the third pitch your in the zone and the traversing crack goes smooth, as long as you stay in it. May 17, 2002

I agree, the direct start is the best way to start this climb. I thought it was the best pitch. The pictures below show a leader avoiding the corner, and thus IHMO, the best climbing on the route. Stemming to the boulder would definitely drop the grade. I'd say that it's solid 5.8 without the stem. I thought it harder than the last pitch which seemed straight forward jamming to me. May 1, 2002

This is a fun climb. The 5.8 start straight up the corner feels stiff to me. The feet are somewhat desperate but the hands/fingers are good. I tried to do this without using the boulder at all but found it to be too difficult and yielded to the stem. Also, it's about 100 ft. to the start of the left angling slot so I think this could be led as one pitch with thoughtful pro (and enough of it!). May 1, 2002

Very nice route.. 3 stars indeed. We chose the direct approach up the dihedral and it didnt seem much harder than 5.7+/8 so a good choice, once you get that first piece. Also on P3 we took the choice of the line of 4 bolts to the left of the crack, anyone have any idea of what this goes at ? I was thinking somewhere in the range of 11b'ish ? A confirmation on that would be nice, as it is not to be found anywhere. Enjoyable climbing, great for intro leaders with tons of gear placements and great belay stances. A must do at Cob Rock. Aug 30, 2001

I agree that the 5.7+ 3 pitch was harder than P1. But as Ben said, it is quite fun. The crack is pretty wide for most of the pitch and I placed my wide pieces up front, leaving me with a good run out. The jams are great though so it wasn't emotionally shattering, I think... :) Aug 28, 2001

Great route, even if I did soak my butt (and gear) on the tyrolean. The last 5.7+ pitch was a bit challenging for me, particularly with a bag full of liquid chalk on my harness and wet, squishy shoes. The 5.8 dihedral start on the left and the 5.7+ crack above that seemed really easy compared to the last pitch. Cracks aren't my forte' though (yet). Aug 24, 2001

A more interesting start is to climb in the dihedral from the very beginning and don't wander too the right right as shown in the photos. The dihedral isn't that hard but I couldn't guess at the grade. I was a 5.9 leader and it felt hardish to me. Jun 21, 2001

I think you may have been off route from the Empor for sure. The direct 5.8 finish to the Empor is very obvious from the v-slot ramp. If you belayed after turning the corner left on the first pitch of the Empor, there would be a 12 foot crack running straight up. It then diagonals right for about 10 ft then heads up a smaller corner diagonal left. It is very straightforward. If my memory serves, you may have been on the face left of this crack. Not sure what that is. Either way. I wouldl go back and do the above finish :) It is great climbing. Jul 24, 2008

So I'm not sure if I accidentally climbed this route - we were shooting for Empor, but rather than heading up left into the V-notch, I headed straight up a small crack, which ended with a loose hold in a crack next to a VERY thin horizontal crack below a blank face. Rather than heading left, like this route seems to suggest, I headed right on the crazy-thin horizontal - basically toesmears on nothing, match on tiny crimper, and huge move right to a crimp on the far right end of the horizontal. Yellow TCU in the horizontal. After getting up on the small ledge to the right of the horizontal, a couple pieces up a short crack, and then another long traverse right. I ended up traversing out to the arete, to some jugs, but couldn't get any gear, and didn't want to run it out up the face, so I continued traversing around the arete to a head-sized pillar-flake, slinging that and finishing on the roof of Northwest Corner. It was probably a 30-ft unprotected traverse, which was really stupid, but I couldn't seem to figure out how to do anything else. Is that this route, or did I do some strange new variation? Jul 21, 2008

Can also be accessed from the 'Northwest Corner' route. Nov 20, 2007

Bring small TCUs (couple C3 00s are useful) and some wires. Bold lead certainly, but the climbing eases up after the first 15 feet. Sep 17, 2010

The entire climb felt 5.11 as there are several cruxs throughout, especially at the start. The seam at the top might take 'small' RPs if I remember correctly (I seriously doubt it). This would be a bold lead as it probably would have to be climbed without gear, perhaps an awkward small cam placement periodically (again, I doubt it). Face Route makes for a fun late day adventure as it will leave you feeling complete and energized as it did me. Most of the moves involve balancy, intricate, and technical foot work on small insecure edges. May 18, 2008

Downgraded to V15 after the second ascent. From Woods' 8a scorecard: "after returning back and using the new method, The Game felt to be more like a soft V15 than 16. A couple of the holds have seemed to of grown in size from brushing. This new method is different from what I did, so therefore it is a different boulder problem. Before, I could not use these holds since they were not as positive as they are now. Regardless, it is still an amazing boulder." Sep 12, 2011

Good route, but scary walk off. I would really love to try this route straight up instead of going left towards the tree. Does anyone have any beta? Seems like a pretty cruxy move(s) with zero gear and a potential fall on to a ledge (and then the ground). Jul 1, 2008

Hey Chris, Could you be more specific about the starting holds for this climb? There is a small hole at the very bottom with an edge that I considered the starting hold, but the start is awkward and bunchy. Just wanted to make sure this is actually the start. Thanks, t Apr 17, 2011

For guys with big hands (i.e., can hand jam #3s) like myself, this route looks awfully hard from the ground, seeming to require super thin locks.... And well, it does, but it's shockingly easy given how small the finger locks are (I had five pinkie and ring-finger locks consecutively through the crux), part of this was due to the plethora of good footholds, but the jams themselves, while small, are shockingly secure, similar to the gear, which is small, but bomber. Highly recommend this route, solid 10a, neither soft or sandbagged, and the upper section, which goes at 5.8-ish, is also quite fun. Jul 18, 2016

There is an old piton you can clip about 10-15 feet up once you pull over the juggy ledge and step over left. Super fun route with great protection! Oct 20, 2015

I followed this one today. Fun crux move, but my foot slipped and I fell from about 10 feet up. With rope stretch I hit the ground, although it was cushioned quite a bit. Fired right back up and enjoyed a great climb the rest of the way to the top. Moving out right around the corner near the top was really nice. Sep 11, 2011

Is the fixed, silver TCU still there? Sep 10, 2010

Good climb with a one move crux. Solid pro. Great 1st 5.10a for an aspiring 5.10 leader. Can't really get hurt falling if pro set well. Sep 9, 2010

My uncle Cary Huston put this up in 1955, as a 22 year old kid-fresh out of the army's 10th Mtn. Division training school. He was among a handful of Boulder climbers pioneering the sport in those years, the likes of Kor, Carter, Northcutt, Hornbein, etc.... Cary explained to me over the years - "When we climbed back then, we had a hemp rope, lug soled boots, a single piece of sling wrapped around your waist for a harness, and the we didn't think about the need for intermediate protection." Amazing. This was essentially a free solo in the day and one of the hardest climbs ever put up at the time. Cary is not long for this world at age 83, but cheers to you UNC! You helped start it all. Cary Huston Hayes 1-6-17 Jan 6, 2017

After a good chunk of the day running trad laps on Cob, I was ready for a wind down and figured this shorty would be my ticket. Started off just fine...got into the offwidth section, set my #4, made about two moves above it and started getting worked! Couldn't seem to get good feet...through in another #4, attempted next move and peeled. Stout f#cker! Managed to walk the #4 the remainder of the way and struggle ferociously to the topout. Definitely not a wind down kind of 5.8/9. Needless to say, agree with everyone's comments.... Fun. Indeed full on offwidth flare. Will make you sweat & maybe resort to foul language as well. Found the 5.10d to the right easier to my liking and the 11a to the right of that is a super fun micro-edgefest! Hard & reachy. May 31, 2015

It's not really worth the effort of tape in my opinion. There are good hand jams low and good knees in higher, and I mostly gastoned the outside edge while sliding my legs up. I'd say pants over shorts though. Jul 6, 2013

Do you guys tape up for this one? Jun 10, 2013

I wish there were more cracks like this in Bocan. I didn't think the OW difficulties were all too bad... felt pretty secure with only one #4 Camalot. I guess another and maybe a #5 would be nice, but if you're solid in the OW, it'll be fine with a single #4. The crux is a surprising few moves near the top of the crack at the exit.... Oct 12, 2012

I brought a #6 because, well, I own one and I've only placed it once before. Found a great spot for it up high...but you can sew it up just fine without. Two #4's and a #5 will get you through the crux. Jul 24, 2012

My first off-width done today with 1 #4. Definitely wanted another one!!! I walked it up as far as I could which made the climbing a little harder, left it as high as I could and was still looking at a good 25'er. To do this climb safely, bring two #4s and even a #5 if you want to sew it up. Aug 29, 2011

The new guidebook for Boulder Canyon (Wolverine Publishing) gives this a 5.9 rating, which I generally agree with. For comparison, use the OW on pitch three of Central Pillar of Frenzy in Yosemite. It's signicantly easier (same size, but lower angle) and rated 5.8. (This is relevant if you consider Yosemite's routes and their ratings a benchmark). Aug 28, 2010

I found the knee jams on this one to allow for some rest breaks. I walked a #4 Camalot up about 20 feet through the middle section of the crack. I found it rather strenuous and around the crux I tested a 3" cam by weighting it from a few feet above. Lieback the crux. After resting a moment, I tried this and cruised to the belay. This climb made a fun step up from 5.7 for me. Hard, but not unreadable, and in the solution there is great satisfaction. Aug 3, 2009

Sewn up? I'll tell you about sewn up! Take two #4 Camalots, and a #5! You could practically aid it. And if you accidentally kick the 5 on the way past, so it's tipped out and worthless, you'll still only be 6' or so above the top #4! Groveling in style! Jun 15, 2009

First time I did it I got a big old Chouinard hex (8 or 9) stuck in there, had to rap to get it out. Gave me a big cramp in my foot. Jul 11, 2008

This is the quintessential wide crack primer. You can even get a couple of chicken wings in towards the top. Resist the urge to use facial features. I left the #4 Camalot in the car since I was just planning to do Empor. Luckily I had #3.5, #3, and #2 Camalots and a Trango MaxCam about the same size as the #3.5. The #2 worked well in a horizontal crack toward the top of the wide section and protected the weird mantel move getting out of the wide crack. Enjoy! Jul 11, 2008

This is a classic, in part because of the great crack, but also because of the rating! If this were done today, it would be listed at 5.9. Back then, 5.10 was the hardest there was, so if you could climb it at all they gave it a 5.9, and if you did it first try it was listed at 5.8. Jun 14, 2008

I recall back in the early '90s Scott Parazinski, aka the vampire to John Glenn & one of the two astronauts on the recent record setting space walk, jumping onto this route on lead with my meager rack at the time with a #4 Friend as the biggest piece. =[:~o Nov 5, 2007

This was also a whim climb for our group after Empor, so after flailing all over this thing I didn't go home thinking I was the king of the mountain. #2 moral is not to try this after Empor. Nov 5, 2007

I climbed this last month on a whim after getting done Empor. I didn't have the requisite big cams and I ran it out on lead to groundfall potential at my leading ability (not good). I walked a 3.5 Camalot up with me to about 1/2 way until it was too tipped out to function, then shot for the top. Well, I didn't actually shoot for the top, more like oozed up the crack to the top, sometimes gaining 6 inches then losing 2. At the crux I was fairly pumped, overgripping (oh feck, oh feck) and I ALMOST tried to face climb to the left to an inviting bolt I could fall from. I'm glad I didn't, I probably would have peeled. The moral of the story is to bring big cams. Nov 5, 2007

I thought that the crack was heinous, I got spanked tiring to go up this off width beast, my feet didn't fit in the crack, and I ended up jamming knees and arm bars, prying apart the crack up toward the top, then I ran out of big gear and had to lower and TR. But I tell you my arms feel great today, guide book calls it an 8, but I have to disagree, and would bump it to a 9... I really like most cracks (and usually breeze up them) but I guess I have to learn a better technique for these off widths, I really wanted to do a toe-heal, but I wasn’t finding the right place for that, and most of the way my hands just felt too small. I will probably do this again until I get up without much trouble. Nov 5, 2007

Good Clean Fun!!! First your jamming hands, then fists, then sideways fists, then arms and legs. Very nice crack clinic. Aug 13, 2007

Fat cracks are Phat! this one is fun, bring a big cam and just walk it along as you climb, Jammin' man... Jul 10, 2007

Definitely wide. It's possible to to get good fist jams through the wide section if you reach deep enough. May 26, 2007

Ya, just to echo whats already been said. The crux on this one is high and you need a 4 or 4.5 BD size cam to protect it. Learned this one the hard way, I grounded out when I slipped at the crux and my tapped out 3.5 pulled. Sep 4, 2003

Be careful on this climb! You need large pro for the top (i.e. BD #4). I saw a guy deck from the top yesterday as his pro zippered, then got hauled out on a litter.. Other than, that VERY cool climb..and the 10d is also way cool.. Aug 18, 2003

This route makes for a great introduction to off-width cracks. It's a bit less than vertical and several hold outside and inside the crack make it a very worthwile TR. Aug 12, 2002

Yeah, this is a good route, fun and frustrating. From the ground the rock around the wide part of the crack looks like there might actually be some good holds but the rock was pretty polished. The leg jam was harsh. I got stuck!!! May 28, 2002

I made the mistake of assuming the crux was in the thin crack section near the bottom and foolishly decided to tackle the wide section with no pro. Needless to say things got a bit desperate when I reached the crux and my last piece was 25 feet below me (clearly in decking territory) The crux comes about 40 feet off the ground where the wide crack narrows enough to force your leg out of the offwidth jam. As stated by Ben, to pro this correctly, 2 number 4 Camalots would be needed (unless you care to walk one of them up with you). All this being said, this is a fun route, sustained and technical. Sep 17, 2001

A #4 Camalot or equivalent is almost mandatory unless you run it out through the offwidth section. If you have two, you could really sew it up. Jan 1, 2001

A bolted rap route was installed in 2013. mountainproject.com/forum/t… Aug 24, 2017

Could not find a bolted anchor for this climb. Nearest anchors were quite far down and left of where we topped out, above the 11 climb (?). Slings above the downclimb are shredded, just a single cord in place, so didn't use that, either. Walk off sucks. Aug 19, 2017

I'm terrible at hand cracks, but this pitch felt easier than the top pitch of Empor for me. I'm giving it two stars for the varied moves (stemming, jamming, a little offwidth if you're feeling ballsy). Worth doing if you're in the area and the classics are taken, or as a warmup for Huston. Jun 30, 2014

I swapped the locations of bolt hangers and added a quick link to improve anchor. It's much better now. Too bad the starting hand crack doesn't go on for 80 feet.... Sep 5, 2012

Was up there today. Current anchor is 2 bolts: 1 hanger has a steel rap ring on it and the other currently has a biner on it. Sep 26, 2010

Climb this to get your self esteem back up after doing Huston Crack. One of the bolts does not have a ring for lowering/pulling the rope. It could use a quicklink for sure. Aug 26, 2009

Went up to Cob the other day and discovered a new bolted anchor above this climb. Jul 6, 2009

Good climb, crappy descent. Apr 23, 2008

Climbed it on 5/17/07 the first time, fun route- used a #3+#4 (BD)cam and then climbed up and left to a rap tree that drops you on the east face of cob. start has great jams, watch out for loose rocks when climbing through the broken area to tree. Jul 10, 2007

First 15 feet is a delight. Perfect jams. Then it gets blah. There are some rap slings to avoid the gnarly walk off. Good if the place is swamped and you need to get a buddy from Houston out until the crowds die down. Aug 8, 2003

Watched a few vids of this after completing yesterday. Looks like most people start higher on the arete than I. Starting left a bit lower adds an extra bump move before throwing to the lip (for a bit more of that "Hug" action). So, could be a bit of variance on the grade depending on choice of start, but hard 8 to easy 9 seems the right range. Apr 30, 2012

I am curious, I am from Amarillo Texas and did some bouldering in the Cob Rock area. There are a lot of chalked boulders and not very many problem descriptions here in MP. I had a great time on the few boulders I tried (limited to sleeping pads), but I'ed like to know if you guys know what these boulders are or where I might find out? Thanks, this is a linked picture: gallery.me.com/jeremymbauma… Jul 23, 2011

The Huge Left Hug, V8/11. May 27, 2011

The location description is great, but any way we could get a picture up? A picture is worth a thousand words. Apr 14, 2011

Luke, The line you are referring to is called The Hug Left @ V8. t Apr 4, 2011

Okay, it seems like there is confusion here...and the comments really don't seem to clarify this. Can someone who knows this problem well please clearly indicate what the name of the problem is? Thanks! Nov 29, 2010

The Hug, Hug Left. Nov 28, 2010

I was referring to this "Start is the same as for "Huge, V11?"" Jun 27, 2010

No, this is "Hug Left" as described above. Hard V8 feels about right. Jun 27, 2010

Called the Hug, see my comment about Boulder Canyon blog guide info. Jun 24, 2010

Worthy problem to try if you are in the area. Difficult and heady mantel problem. If you are short and have to jump, it adds to the spice. You don't want to fall although the landing is flat. -Good find, Angus Oct 2, 2012

VERY tough warm-up... crux right off of the ground and quite an A$$ kicker at that. Aug 9, 2015

FA was Bruce Morris, not "Moss". Aug 17, 2010

Ken Duncan's description sounds like the route that I did back in July 1977. There was a left facing dihedral with a very difficult entrance problem stem. Oct 7, 2004

The 11c crux moves are the first 5 or 6 moves of the ground in a very weird, awkward and strenuous thin dihedral. Sep 4, 2004

I recall a tight, steep dihedral with a thin finger crack. My notes say "solid 5.11c, RPs for gear". There is a 5.8 crack to the right, and an easier (5.6) crack right of that; both of these cracks lead into the rock scar. Sep 10, 2002

P2 is great. The gear is all there, and additionally there are some new shiny bolts to protect the slab moves. Fun route. Aug 28, 2010

The slot that Crusher mentions takes a #3 BD stopper placed broadside out. The placement is solid and secure and provides protection while getting to the first bolt (this works because I fell and it held). Going for the second bolt is another ball of wax. As mentioned in the above post-do not fall as one would hit the tree and possibly the ground. There are several ways of getting to the second bolt, both of which are 5.10 moves. Stated simply: The crux of the first pitch is well above the first bolt but not quite at the second. The remaining pitches are fun. Jul 21, 2008

Love this climb. 1 pitch (60m) to top. Rack used on 6/2/07 in order: clip the two bolts up to #3 (BD) cam @ overhang, #00 (WC) cam, to piton, clipped the two shiny bolts, then a #1 (WC) cam, and some pieces for the belay. 60m rope won't reach all the way to the belay tree on summit if done in single pitch. Jul 10, 2007

On 9/13/2005 Ron Olsen and I replaced the old 1/4" Rawl buttonhead bolts on the second pitch with 3/8" x2.25" stainless steel Rawl 5-piece bolts. This work was sponsored by the American Safe Climbing Association. They appreciate your support. Bruce ps - on the way down, I spotted two old 1/4" Rawl studs down and left and around the corner from the second pitch of Night Vision. Both were next to an easily protectable crack. Note, these were studs without either a hanger or a nut and were very poorly drilled. Because of their location next to an easily protectable crack, the fact that they were very poorly drilled (sticking half out) and they did not have a hanger or nut attached to the studs, I removed them. Sep 13, 2005

I've always enjoyed this route. On pitch 1, before the first bolt, don't know about a #2 RP, but there is a shallow slot that takes a sideways #5 RP, the largest one they make, real well. On pitch two the old (and very rusty) buttonheads are still there, as of August 2004. Used to be that this fine arete pitch seemed real safe compared to the funky crack/seam just right, but not anymore. Note to self: Take a prybar and new bolts and drill next time..... Aug 29, 2004

The second bolt on P1 is poorly placed...if you fall before clipping it, there's a good chance you'll slam into the tree right behind you. The bolts on P2 are old, will probably not hold a fall, and can not really be backed up with pro. I ended up leaving the route and doing the crack which was at least something that can be protected. I agree with the comment above...unless your confident in your 5.10 abilities for the day, don't try leading this. Jul 15, 2002

Don't fall after the bolt either. The two bolts on the second pitch are rusty 1/4" buttons that will as likely as not pop on a big fall. The first bolt can be backed up about 4 feet to the right by small brass nuts. The second bolt can not. Beware: the leader on this pitch should be a solid 5.10 climber, as there is plenty of opportunity for injury in a fall. Jun 13, 2002

Don't fall before the 1st bolt. It hurts. Mar 7, 2002

LOST GEAR: hi there! I had an epic fail yesterday and left a cam on this route about halfway up while following. It's my boyfriend's cam, and I feel pretty lousy about leaving it (thought it was one of the stuck pieces of gear that dot this route). Anyhow, I would be forever grateful to the next crew to climb this if you would feel generous enough to return the cam. I think it's a green 0.75. I will buy you beer or food and thank you profusely, and you would be saving me from this mistake! Thanks in advance! 616-648-2754 Jul 23, 2017

The boulder on top p1 is definitely ready to go. Don't build anchor there, build it around on same wall as final pitch, still comfy. Bring a bomb shelter, wear a helmet. Oct 21, 2016

Got a #3 cam stuck near the top of this route today. Several parties tried to retrieve it to no avail If you happen to get it and are feeling benevolent, my phone number is 949-500-7562, and I live in the Boulder area. Jun 18, 2016

Hey all, Got my rope stuck on the rappel down today 6/6/16. If anyone has the heart to undo it from the horn on their rap down and return it to me, it would mean the world. My phone number is 401-864-7675. Thanks so much for considering. Jun 6, 2016

If you like climbing five fun cracks, then this climb is for you! We broke up the route into three pitches to make sure my second could hear me a little better in the canyon. The hand jams are bomber, and the crack just keeps going and going and going with great gear throughout. The belay shown in the book sure does look questionable to me as stated by others. It's a huge, detached flake resting on the ledge. Looked a little sketchy to me, so I decided to setup the belay directly below the start of the 2nd pitch of Empor which created rope drag. This was an amazing route I'd climb again - must do for sure! May 29, 2016

This has been brought up in previous comments, but I just wanted to reiterate. Be very cautious around the flake/block on the small belay ledge for pitch 1!! Before I realized how detached it was, I had placed a cam in the crack created by the block and the face. Tugged on the gear slightly to test and the whole block shifted, not a ton but enough that I nearly crapped my pants. Yikes! So just a word of warning to anyone getting on the route for the first time. From below, everything looks solid and ready to accept gear. Don't be fooled like I was! Also, in my opinion, this makes the ledge nonviable as a belay per the route description. I ended up climbing around the block and building an anchor at the base of pitch two (see pic), which caused a lot of rope drag. Otherwise this was a really fun, quality route. Have fun out there! Mar 6, 2016

LOST: 70m rope - Mammut Infinity - blue - COB ROCK, Boulder Canyon. Hello all, I was climbing at Cob Rock yesterday (8/15/15), specifically North Face Center route, ending at 2pm. I left my rope at the base of the climb before heading out - 70m Mammut Infinity in a black Metolius rope backpack. If you managed to snag it on your way out, please give me a ring at (207)450-7212. $50 reward. Thanks, James Aug 16, 2015

Jumped on this route a few days ago (the afternoon of June 24th) and had to bail. Left some gear behind. If anyone comes across is and is kind enough to return the pieces, please PM. Jun 27, 2015

Good first multi-pitch trad climb. As of February 2015, there are still many fixed nuts and cams throughout the route. The V-slot exit to the left is quite easy for the first part (5.2) but has 15 feet or so of steeper crack climbing at the end (5.7). Mar 19, 2015

Full value 5.7. Direct finish feels like modern 5.8 and is easily the best part of the route. May 7, 2014

Fun, easy handcrack for the start, to more fun, thinner finger cracks later on. Sep 11, 2011

Excellent climb. First pitch is sustained fun. Second is awesome, but I was very scared. I recommend doubles in larger cams (#2BD, I think) for the zig-zag...that or fiddle with hexes (blah). I didn't have cams and felt pure terror as I dashed for the top. Also, confidence with hand and fist jams is a plus. This was harder than 5.7 for me. I don't recommend doing it in one pitch -- starting up the zig-zag with rope drag would be a...drag. Aug 14, 2011

Next time I climb this I'm going to bring a 70 meter rope and make it one, long, mind-blowing pitch of 5.7. It might even be possible with a 60 meter especially if you are comfortable with a few moves of simul-climbing. Apr 29, 2011

This is a fantastic route with some exposure, long (sustained) climbing, and quality rock! Don't be fooled by the grade; it makes you earn a 5.7. The crux for me on the second pitch was quite dicey as the feet seemed mediocre. Once I committed, the moves went cleanly. Have fun. Aug 18, 2007

Climbed on 5/15/07 and enjoyed it lots, I recommend this route. Jul 10, 2007

I led this in three pitches. Pitch one was to the first ledge, just after stepping right (could have gone to the second ledge a bit further up). Pitch two was up and onto the arete, belayed at the top of the arete. Pitch three (short) was up the crack 8' left of the bolt line. Done this way, I found the crux to be on pitch two, moving into the flared wide crack just above a piton with mediocre feet and non-positive hands. Jun 19, 2006

This climb is a lot of fun. Jun 19, 2006

Very nice route. Finished the second pitch by going up the arete (instead of the V-slot) to the final short crack to the top. Like the above comments there is plenty of "gear" to clip into. First time climbing in Boulder Canyon, Great climb. Jul 7, 2004

Yeah, mucho fun at the grade. Right on par with other BC 7s like Cozyhang, The Owl, and Standard Route. I would recommend bringing double #2 Camalots and at least one #3 if you want to feel well protected on the stellar final pitch. Jun 14, 2004

I think this is definitely on par with Empor in terms of overall quality and difficulty, a very enjoyable climb. I agree with the comment about Cob Rock being a gear graveyard, there is fixed gear (stoppers, TCUs, etc.) all over the place ;-) Jun 14, 2004

Climbed this line today, starting around 2 pm. Getting a little cold on the north face. The whole formation was in the shade when we showed up. Great route, three stars. Remember that the Empor link-up goes at 5.7+ easily. I spent a week in Indian Creek and this still gave me a challenge. My girlfriend had to French Free it near the top. Keep that in mind for a second with intermediate hand strength (cupping hands). Oct 11, 2003

This route has a very large, somewhat loose rock on it at the little ledge (an arete of sorts to the left) where one might set up their first belay. Be cautious of this rock! It is set well (it's been there for thousands of years) but you'll see what I mean if you are trying to place gear in it. Cheers. Brian W Sep 1, 2003

A fine route! A couple 5.7 moves with great rests. Gear: I didnt use anything larger than a 2 camalot (save for one #10 hex). Theres a great exposed belay on the arete at the top of pitch one (dont go into v-slot). This eases rope drag and allows you to see your partner, and theres no belay difficulties if parties are on empor (always). if you opt for the original finish instead of empor finish, you can: climb the exposed arete just above this belay, or jump into the easy corner. at the top of the corner, finish with a short finger crack (about 8 feet left of the bolt line). Aug 10, 2002

On a humorous note, this route is approaching sport climb status with 4-5 stuck piece of gear and a piton or two........ Rack: QDs, there's s*** stuck all the way up the crack...... Seriously though, it's one of the best routes in Boulder Canyon in my opinion. Jun 24, 2002

Pitch 1 was excellent, however, some idiots decided to jump on the belay ledge with me as my partner was on his way up pitch 2. Personally, I would have stopped about 15' feet below to build my anchor on the larger ledge if I saw another party up there. I ran into quite a bit of loose rock (big ones) on pitch 2. All in all, a great climb. Great views of the canyon and surrounding rock. May 28, 2002

Great climb. I'd give this 3 stars and go as far as suggesting that it's a better line than Empor. The entire climb follows a broken crack system making this one of the longer (and probably best) 5.7 cracks in BC. Perfect jams are available for almost the entire route (assuming you do the 7+ finish). The first pitch is a nice warm up with a few 5.7 moves. The second pitch is more sustained with great pro the whole way up. Watch out for parties on Empor, though, as you might have to wait for them to pass(as we did). May 8, 2002

Climbed this again yesterday. Combined with the last Empor pitch I think it's easily 3 stars. The first pitch has a few .7 moves but is mostly 5.6, I think. Great apres-work climb as the approach takes about 1.5 minutes. Fun beginner lead. May 1, 2002

The first pitch is a nice, long, sustained 5.7 with lot's of gear opportunities. The second pitch intersects with Empor and can cause some belaying difficulty if the 5.7+ finish is selected since you have to climb down slightly from the belay before heading to the top. Sep 25, 2001

Still a lot of loose flakes. Not a good lead probably if this is your top grade. Gear beta: a small tricam might fit great in the pocket before the traverse (I only had an orange Alien which is a bad squeeze). Jun 27, 2013

Beware of many loose flakes on this climb. These significantly detract from the quality of the climb. Jun 25, 2012

Did a direct variation straight up without the traverse left. 5.8+. Jun 5, 2011

This one is lots of fun. Good gear fun moves, nice exposure, use some double length runners, be smart with where you place your pieces, and you can stretch it in one 60m pitch. Jul 10, 2007

Don't even THINK about touching that flake or using it for gear. There is a small edge to the left of it you can use as a much smaller hand hold. Jun 12, 2006

You can backup the fixed pin under the crux w/ a #0 TCU. Check out the extremely loose flake down and right of the pin! Wicked! Jun 9, 2006

Great climb, seconded this Saturday, and was very impressed by the movement and the exposure. May 10, 2004

Did this earlier this morning. I don't like it when my holds all feel like they'll fail. Not to spew beta, but I got a bomber #4 Smiley wedge in at the left end of the traverse behind the big flake. It didn't LOOK bomber, but would have held a fall, especially since I just wanted it while I moved up to the pin. In the undercling above the pin I got a really good green alien, and then I slung the super creaky flake. I don't think the slung flake would have held a fall, but it was easy to the ledge after that. If you like climbing on peeling onions you'll like this climb. The moves are spectacular, and the pro reminds me of Eldo, but everything is hollow and flexing. For an awesome finish go straight up the crack in the middle of the tower without steping around the corner to the right. Jul 18, 2003

This route has a couple creaky flakes on it. I ran it out across the traverse only to discover that my placements would have to go behind flexing flakes. That old pin after the traverse looks pretty good at that moment! A great route. Jul 23, 2002

You can just make it with a 60m rope. Don't place pro, or use a long sling on the traverse left to eliminate drag to do it in one pitch. Dec 31, 2001

Good climb, better than Northface Center and Northwest Corner IMHO.... Jan 1, 2001

I climbed at Cob yesterday, did NF center and Northwest Corner and used the new raps. I think the location of the lower station changes the character of the slight runout section on the Northwest Corner. You can now clip the bolted anchor instead of trusting the "seemingly" bomber sideways placed nut backed up by a green Alien below. I have never taken the fall on that gear, but over the years I have stood on the ledge having to muster the courage to cast off into the territory above. I did not clip the bolted station for pro, but it seems like future climbers will be having a different experience on the route if they do use it. I also think the location of the rappel line will create problems for climbers doing the Northwest Corner as other parties rap down, as it did with only two parties on Cob on Friday. I can appreciate the efforts of wanting to minimize erosion, but walking down from the summit takes anywhere from 5-10 minutes. Perhaps the trail could be improved, or the location of this rappel line can be moved further right, to routes that get much less traffic than Northwest Corner. I have enjoyed climbing the historic routes like North Face Left, North Face Center, Empor, and Northwest Corner over the years with no bolts or fixed stations, only ancient pitons, marveling at the skill of those early ascensionists. This is an experience that is disappearing in Boulder Canyon with this small section of Cob Rock as one of the last holdouts. Installing the rap route was probably not done with the intention of altering the experience on this route, but in my opinion it has. Aug 3, 2013

There is a new rappel route from the summit. It was installed to help mitigate the degradation of the standard walk off, which is in major disrepair. There are two chain anchors near the summit, basically between the top of Empor and Northwest Corner. There is another rap station on a small ledge between those two routes for a second rappel. Two raps with one 60-meter rope gets you down. Aug 1, 2013

Rated this PG. If you're solid at the grade, the face is no big deal, but a fall there would be fairly long and very painful considering the ledgy nature of the rock. Heads up to the fledgling 5.8 leader. Nice varied climbing on a cool chunk of rock. I do it as one pitch, usually w/ the direct start, and with long runners in the right spots there isn't much rope drag (70m rope). Jul 24, 2013

This is a really fun route with lots of variety. The face sections are a bit run out, but the features are solid, so there's very little risk of taking a big whipper. We climbed this in one pitch with a 70 meter rope. I ran out of alpine draws along the way, so the rope drag got pretty bad. If you link both pitches, make sure you have a bunch of extendable draws with you. Apr 25, 2012

Matt, that alternate start is called Hurley Direct, great start to the climb! Sep 3, 2009

We started around the right of the arete at the base, going up a face with a crack that took a blue TCU. A slightly spicy start (not sure what this route is part of) but a fun alternative to the standard start. Sep 3, 2009

For added excitement, don't bail around the corner, but continue straight up the corner to the top! Aug 30, 2009

An alternative start to the route is to climb down under the big boulder and climb the shallow dihedral (5.8) just to the left of the route. This is also an alternate start to Empor. There are some fun moves on this and good pro. Be careful if you climb down from the west side of the boulder as the landing is a little nasty. You can bypass the runout face on this route by going a few feet right into a flaring corner with an old pin (probably Layton's!). The moves are harder (5.9ish), but the pro is decent. Jun 21, 2006

What a fantastic mental focus problem. Those face moves are pretty easy, but blowing it would be extremely unpleasant, wouldn't it? I found myself standing there for several minutes, irrationally waiting for the traffic noise to die down a bit, consequently exhausting my feet. After a short retreat I pulled thru it without difficulty. After the face I apparently got off-route, moving left into a short dihedral, under the roof, then traversing left on a neat hand crack, finally pulling up and over on a system just to the right of the top of Empor. There was a bit of lichen, but a fair amount of chalk, too. Is there a route between Empor and NW corner? I also did the whole thing in one pitch, and I didn't find the drag to be too terrible. Sep 27, 2004

Fun, varied moves on excellent rock. A bomber yellow Alien can be placed on top of the pedestal before committing to the runout face section. Jul 21, 2003

Definitely a fun route, spicier than others on [Cob Rock] with that face section. We should all give thanks to Layton for putting this up back in the day, imagine how hard and sketchy that first lead musta been in 59!!!!! Aug 14, 2002

If you start just below and to the right of the large boulder, there is a nice finger crack. I think that some of the guidebooks call it Northwest Corner Direct and give it a 10a rating. The hands are good but the feet are thin. The crack is easily protected with some smaller stoppers, you can even place one about ten feet up by getting on the boulder to the right. I know how many feel about pre-placing gear, but it protects you from a potentially painful fall into the cave below. A great variation to a wonderful climb. -BPC Jul 6, 2002

FWIW, I also found the face above the crack to be "exciting". I certainly didn't feel like I was sewing it up. The most reasonable explanation is that I probably missed the gear to which Myke refers. Aug 30, 2001

well, let's see. I climbed the crack to the right of the tree/bush with great jams and pro, then found myself standing on top of a small triangle/shelf before the face propper. There was a GREAT horizontal stopper placement at hip or lower (can't rememmber) - prob the one you speak of. Then I hit the face and moved straight up and then right to the arete where the small roof/left leaning crack is...I certainly felt the exposure with the rope 15' below me on that stopper! But I am a coward so that was pretty exciting. Maybe the route to the arete was my problem - looked cool/was cool - maybe better pro further up instead of right to the arete? Aug 30, 2001

I think you mean the second pitch? That's the only place where I couldn't sew it up at will... At the top/end of that shallow V-dihedral (where the face climbing starts) there was a great stance just left of it on a ledge. I was able to place a #3 stopper (or close) in a little notch (horizontal placement)- it made me feel a lot better than doing the moves with the .75 camalot 10 feet below. Aug 30, 2001

I do think that new leaders should be warned that the face above the crack on the first pitch should be listed on the Spice Network! Good edges up the face but zippo pro. Aug 30, 2001

After reading Michael's comments this morning, I KNEW which route I had to do today. Matt's description is accurate - however, I believe the route corresponds to number 8 as drawn on the photo... while the first belay ledge works well at about 5-10 feet down and right (at a fixed pin, just below the large fist-sized jams flake. Yup, and I have to agree, turning the roof is pretty dang sweet. Took me a couple of minutes to figure it out, but not that bad once you figure it out. I think you can probably lead this route with just stoppers, hexes, and draws... I rarely had to use cams, and even then it wasn't mandatory. Fun! Aug 24, 2001

I can't help it. So it's crowded. And you can actually still hear traffic...but Cob is my favorite rock in the canyon. It becons to be climbed. And the roof on the second pitch of this route (of course from the cushy belay tabletop in the sky) - exquisite. Big jugs above two pins. Beta? Lay it back and crank! Aug 24, 2001

A little research has revealed that though the last few BoCan books have misplaced 'Othello' in terms of where it lies, that this is it. Aug 9, 2015

There are two pitons at the "top" of this climb...about 25' above where the crack ends. I backed them up with two small cams, brought up my second, and then we rapped from there. Currently there is a decent looking red sling with rap biner through the pitons. This is actually a sweet little climb. Short but worthwhile. The start might be a tad bit dicey if you aren't comfortable at the grade, it protects with small cams/stoppers. After that, you can sew the climb up, and it is easy to protect the roof moves. Save a few mid-sized cams (#1, #2 BD Camalots) for the crack after the roof. Make sure to put long runners on pro directly below the roof. Jul 24, 2014

I thought this route was great- go out overhang and up the splinter crack. located to the left of Ms. Fanny Le Pump. Rack used: cams (BD)- #.5, #1, #2. Climbed to a rap tree up and left (climb through broken section of rock) 1 pitch, w Philo on 6/21/07 ...5.10- Jul 10, 2007

The roof was a bit awkward, but it protects great. The jams are solid (at least for my hands) and there are also bomber hands after you get over the roof. The walk off is not so bad, either. Sep 10, 2002

This one is not a walkoff. There are two reasonable pitons with good weapon on the date of this post. Aug 14, 2016

Not really worth doing this route. May 3, 2012

The rap station has great slings but only one, razor thin aluminum ring. Wouldn't hang my doubts on that dog. Somebody PLEASE invest some damn pocket change and back that shit show up with a lock link. (IIIII will if'n I ever do that side of CR again....) Jul 17, 2011

There are slings on a tree around the left corner for a 60 foot rappel. Sep 13, 2010

Good climbing, crappy descent. Apr 23, 2008

This route is also fun. Rack: (BD) cams #s 1-3 and a #9 or a 10 stopper climbed on 5/17/07- 1 pitch (60m). Jul 10, 2007

I'm amazed this route was given two stars here. It's a good warm up, but that's about it. Indistinction(5.8), which is to the left of Right Crack, is a much better route. Jul 29, 2002

Definitely 5.6. The offwidth sections don't take #3 Camalots (didn't bring any 4s, but those should work). But, there's a hand crack to the right that does take normal gear (probably 5.6 also). Slap some gear in that crack, climb down a bit, and practice those arm bars! From the top, follow a very loose path up to the left and rap from a tree. Leave a TR anchor and do the dirty, parallel finger cracks that follow the rap line (5.10?). Jul 18, 2002

I might give it 5.6, but 5.7? Nah. Not really worth the annoying descent. Jan 23, 2002

This is such a rad boulder! The sit start was super hard not to crack my dome on the rock behind. Also, seems like a great line from the obvious jug, maybe V6? All in all great rock. Oct 26, 2013

Agreed that, although short, this is a great 1st lead. Easy climbing, bomber gear, and a tree for an anchor. Good jams on it too (or you can just climb the jugs around the crack). Jun 13, 2012

A little dirty but great climbing nonetheless. No RPs needed. Aug 14, 2016

I started in a crack almost directly below the roof (a touch to the right) and followed a mostly direct line through the roof to the top of the formation in 1 long pitch. Done this way I think it is one of the better 5.9 pitches in Boulder Canyon. Sep 5, 2012

Bring your RPs for the start. Aug 14, 2009

An excellent alternative is to stick to the fist crack that wraps around to the right and then up. This gets you behind this small buttress eventually and at the start of West Dihedral. This crack is more of a big flake at one point and kind of spits you out to the right with bad feet for a 5.9ish move. Plug a good cam and commit to the jams and you get above to good holds. Keep on up and end up on a large ledge below the roof with a bolted route on the right. Either add a pitch up the offwidth dihedral to the left and join Northwest Corner or traverse on easy ground at the ledge level and walk off. Place gear on the traverse or not. Aug 11, 2007

Don't let two stars and lack of comments stop you from doing this route; it's a great little after work jaunt and is sheltered from the noise of the creek. The only reason this route doesn't get a third star is because it's short. It protects well, has everything from stemming to jamming to lie backing, and has a great little roof problem to finish it off. Really enjoyed this one and am tempted to give it 3 stars. Bring a second #2 and a #3 to really sew it up. Save one small piece (I used a #1 Metolius) to back up the two pins, but they'll likely hold a short fall. Aug 19, 2014

I found the Boulder Canyon guidebook's sparse beta to be a little unhelpful. This route is the big, orange, semi-overhanging corner that starts from a big ledge (you could park a Volkswagon there) above the descent path. About 15-20' of 5.3ish climbing is required to gain the ledge; recommended that you either solo this part to prevent rope drag or have your belayer join you on the ledge. Climb the big, orange corner toward the left side of the roof (fun!); look out to your left, and when you see a flat-topped pillar (shortly before climbing into the roof), you can traverse left about 10 feet (stepping over a void on good foot ledges) and belay from that pillar to end a first pitch (there is a fixed pin there). If you climb too high and miss the pillar, you might as well just keep going and link the two pitches indicated by the guidebook---the little left side of the roof looks intimidating but definitely goes at a very reasonable 5.8, and the second pitch is very short. Jul 1, 2014

This is a fantastic route! Looking up at the dihedral it looks overhanging and way hard. When you get up in it, you find there is much more to it than can be seen from the ground. Fun, fun! Jul 1, 2013

An interesting variation (not described in either Rossiter guide) to the R: Assuming this is the same start (a bit of face climbing protected with a #7 BD wire to a crack with a pod with a big wire stuck about 25 ft up), after about 90 ft you get to a nice belay on the R. From here go R into a R facing corner with a short offwidth. Use a #5 Camalot to start and a #4 1/2 Camalot at the crux. Muscle up. Find a green Alien placement where you move up and left, and join the Northwest Corner. May 14, 2002

Not at all similar but certainly easier than DLZ on Upper Coney although I think we may have navigated the ending a little differently than the way described above. A fun little tour nonetheless. Felt like 12b. Mar 8, 2010

A bit soft for the grade but a fun route on big holds with a boulder problem to get you well pumped at the finish. This may be 13a if you traverse into the 12d finish but you can use other holds and escape to the exit by staying on the lip at about... 12c-ish... easier than Animal Instinct (classic BoCan 12c) by far. The route could get 1 more star but the clips aren't always in the right place given that this is a link-up of many routes. Mar 6, 2010

From the ground, this does not look like much, but it climbs really well! Good stemming that feels like Eldo. A few nuts and a ~0.5" cam protect the top. I would not climb it without the gear. The climbing at the top is hard and the fall might not be clean without the gear. Sep 15, 2015

Mid-size nut or small TCU sews up the top. Good route. Oct 27, 2013

I would not call the wired nut for the finish "optional." Seemed essential to me! Mar 24, 2012

I concur. A short, but excellent route. Harder than it looks. Thoughtful moves with holds facing the wrong way -- this is not a pull-n-go type of route. I placed a piece of gear a few feet above the last bolt to protect the last hard move. Sep 13, 2002

Dan is the man. Another diamond in the rough. Mar 5, 2002

To add to the confusion on this tiny panel of rock, a fun contrivance (Wet Badger?) is to climb this route into the Badger Traverse at about the same difficulty as the Badger Traverse. Oct 19, 2013

Don't waste your time on this route unless your trying to tick off all the climbs at Coney Island. Many of the Coney Island Classics sit a couple of minutes above this one. As for this route, it pretty much sucks. It's short, and I remember there being pretty sharp holds. I would recommend climbing this as a highball boulder problem with a bunch of pads underneath if you're gonna do it. It had a few burly moves on it to give it a 12a rating. If you're climbing at the grade of 5.12, go up and do Joy Ride and Der Letztze Zug, both of which are super quality and sustained routes.... Apr 6, 2011

After doing this route last spring and then doing lots of other similarly graded routes over the past year, I agree that this is a total sandbag at 12c. Compared to something like Hands of Destiny, which is a similar style, I would say this is definitely a letter grade harder than that. Apr 3, 2017

As with the previous poster, I don't think this is 12c anymore. Much harder than anything on Lucid Dreaming, Anarchitect, Twitch, Mighty Dog all 12c and/or 12d. Hell that first move was harder than anything on Milkbone, Ultrasaurus, and Snake Watching, all 13as. Nov 28, 2016

Actually, Zug, in German/Austrian/Swiss climbing slang means "Move". The other literal translation of this word is Train. So if a German climber saw this, they would say this meant "the last move." Sep 5, 2016

This is a nice TR after climbing Joy Ride. The climbing after the crux is great and maybe 11+. However, the crux (pulling over the roof and the next few moves) seemed absolutely desperate. Did some holds break? The right of the two crimps looked as if there could have been some recent breakage. To me, it seemed like there was no way that it was only 5.12, but maybe I'm just baffled by another weird Boulder Canyon crux. Anyway, it's a fun TR if you skip those crux moves. Several of the bolts were spinning, so we tightened them up with a small wrench. Sep 15, 2015

The Last Train is the proper translation FWIW. German neighbor. Apr 1, 2014

This route is mega classic and will give you a beatdown at the crux. Getting an onsight would give you instant street cred, and if you're one of those people who complain about BOCO being soft, I think this route will change your opinion. I have done many 5.13s that didn't have as hard of a boulder problem crux as this route. Very delicate feet with horrible, sloping crimps just over the roof, including a right handed crux sidepull. If you do this route when it's warm and sunny, give yourself a few extra letter grades for the send. I have found this route to be nearly impossible if it's over 60 degrees. Cold Cloudy conditions will make it easier.... Dec 3, 2012

On 3/28/12, the bolt on the crux clip (above the bottom roof) was loose. I finger-tightened but didn't have a wrench. There is also a rapid link on that bolt for bailing. Mar 29, 2012

"The last pull" is the correct translation. Dec 17, 2010

I think this is one of the finest sport routes in Boulder Canyon, definitely my favorite for the grade...not trivial. Mar 8, 2010

Actually the name is German for "The last pull" or "the last toke" amongst other meanings...Jesse. Jul 12, 2005

Doesn't seem like anyone has been on this thing in quite a few years. I tried it today, and it's pretty licheny and needs to be brushed. Interesting moves until the last 2 bolts, then game on with some "barely there" climbing. Worth doing I guess if you have ticked all the other classics around it. Definitely an old school style of route though. If you have credit card crimp strength and are a "slab meister", then it might make you smile.... Nov 30, 2014

"Very thin crux" is an understatement! May 8, 2010

I did this route in 1991 I think.. :) the crux is the last few feet at the top on very thin edges... all in all a nice route... Jesse Guthrie Mar 7, 2008

If anyone knows the FA info, let me know and I'll edit it in. For what it's worth, my partner and I thought the crux was pretty stout (though brief) for 12b as listed in Bob D's book. Probably somewhere in between Joy Ride and Der Letzte Zug difficulty wise. Mar 3, 2013

I agree this route is awkward, the first bolt is high and tough to clip if you are short. Took a clean 12 footer from the 3rd bolt past the first. Any further would have put me on the ledge. I agree the 11a looks to be a better warm up. Does anyone know the name/rating of the climb to the right? Apr 16, 2009

Definitely worth a star, and not a bad warm-up for the area. Sep 9, 2007

I just did the route today. It was not what I expected at all. I thought it would be a scary 10c slab and it turned out to be a fun, slightly overhanging arete, with lie-backs on good holds. I guess it depends on your perspective. ;-) I'd vote to give it a star. Sep 14, 2003

Let me respectfully disagree with Steve on the route just left. Although it may appear contrived, it is actually a fun short bouldery route and certainly not the worst route in Boulder Canyon. Mar 7, 2002

Thanks for the response, Jeff. Some routes that are pretty bad: Both routes on the Upper Bowling Alley wall, especially the right one (as noted by yourself). A few natural but very lame 5.10-ish routes at the Sport Park. Most of the easier climbs at Sherwood Forest (apologies to Richard Wright). That's what I can think of in the 5.10 range in Boulder Canyon. Obviously this is my opinion and doesn't imply that others might not enjoy these climbs. I don't have any real fondness for Fly Swatter, but it fits in with the nature of the cliff which is short and sharp. For me, a real sport climbing bomb has got to include most of the following: clear disregard for any later climber's safety, including loose rock, poor protection (location, quantity, and quality), and bad anchors (quality and location). Clear disregard for surroundings, including contrived or squeezed line, dangerous base, and proximity to highway. Clear disregard for aesthetics, including poor rock, lots of vegetation and lichen, cleaning scars, lots of glue, chipped holds, constantly wet rock, generic or wandering line, big jagged features, and awkward climbing. Now a lot of classic trad climbs include many of these things as part of the experience so I'm restricting this to sport climbing. And it's true that Fly Swatter has vegetation, screwy protection, and a bit of lichen. However, it also has a striking, uncontrived line, pretty good rock, and interesting climbing. I might give it a star at most, but it doesn't seem worth a bomb. A true bomb has to, in its own way be as special as a 5-star classic and just as rare. Mar 7, 2002

Fly Swatter is worth a star at least. It is fun. Technically easy, but kinda pumpy for being just vertical. Good warm-up. The 5.11a referrred to is of course The Bait. Now you mention it, just what is the worst sport route in Boulder Canyon? Once, after doing Fly Swatter, we tried the route just left, which seemed truly bilge. Seemed to be bolted just to avoid the obvious holds to left and right. Maybe this is one of the worst routes? Hmmm, actually some of the squeezed-in boltfests on Cornerstone or Sport Park must be worse. Feb 10, 2002

Peter, I just came back to this crag to see if there were any additions to the site. Noticed your comment and thought you may share with us some other worse routes than this. I have yet to come across one sport climbing in the canyon, at least compared to the other 50-60 routes I have done here. Seriously. Sep 25, 2001

I've done way worse than this. If you pay attention, it's pretty safe. Sep 17, 2001

I also agree with Crusher about the anchor "crux" moves. I lead the thing, only to be staring at the anchor bolts holding a tenuous pinch 8 inches from the anchor, for what seemed like eternity, not knowing what to do, only to have no other option than to just fall off. Later, I realized I should have gone on past the anchor to the jugs to clip the anchor. Apr 5, 2015

I'd agree with Crusher's assessment: the anchors are in the middle of the crux. Would've been a better route if the anchors were moved up and another bolt added beneath them. Otherwise, strenous and somewhat inobvious sequences. Jun 14, 2004

I hung or fell on every one of the bolts on this route in March, 2015. They seem safe to me. Mar 30, 2015

The anchors on this route are fine. One hanger is missing, but two still remain including a brand new one. Jun 11, 2007

DO NOT SPORT CLIMB THIS ROUTE. IT NEEDS TO BE REBOLTED. They are coming out of the wall. Mar 12, 2007

Awesome route that is often overlooked. Fun moves down low to really good granite face/slab climbing up top. Not a route where you're gonna get pumped, but I found that you had to be dialed on the moves up high with some precision footwork throughout the crux. Dec 28, 2013

What's the deal with the glued, left hand sidepull? It looks terrible and seems unnecessary. Thanks Oct 26, 2013

Seems some people take .12d here on MP, and .13a on their 8a scorecard...hmmmm. I generally don't like these finicky kind of routes, but this is one of the better routes in BoCan. The handholds are quite good, but my left big toe got really pumped. I'm going with solid 12d or soft 13a...but I'm takin' 12d on the scorecard ;-) May 7, 2010

Hi....about the bolts, there seems to be some questions...I first did the route with three bolts on the top half, but after a few people commented about hitting the ledge, I returned and add the one you clip from the undercling, before stepping left and reaching for the big undercling crack...I must admit, it was a bit scary, so thanks to those and their suggestion which made the route a nicer climb! Jan 23, 2005

Thanks Bob, it is a terrific route! I agree that 4 bolts adequately protect the crux top half. Both guidebooks only show 3 bolts above the halfway point ledge and 3 below. Removing any of the 4 headwall bolts and reducing the total to 3 would result in potential ledge falls, and would be out of character with the rest of the route. I think that a bolt up high was missed in the initial count. Mark told me that he has not been on the route, so that may account for the error in his guide. In any case, the bolt number is 7, and they are well placed. All clips are from good holds. The difference in doing the route with the draws in place or hanging them seemed negligible. Kudos to Jesse for a Boulder Canyon classic. Jul 12, 2004

Chris, the upper four bolts just about have to be original, otherwise there would be bad ju-ju up there. The lower three are similar, though I can see that the first bolt could have been dispensed with by using natural gear (which we all placed before that bolt anyway). Glad to see that you and Henry sent this puppy. Pretty fun, huh. :-) Cheers,bobl Jul 12, 2004

Where were the bolts when you led it, Peter? there are now 3 bolts below the ledge and 4 bolts protecting the headwall/ crux. They all seem to be the same vintage. Jul 11, 2004

That's funny about the bolt count. Are there actually seven? Both Rossiter's and Rolofson's book count six bolts. Was there a bolt added by someone? Jul 10, 2004

One last note: there are 7 bolts. Jul 8, 2004

Fabulous pitch. 1-2 cams in the hand sized range (2-3 size friends) protect the stretch to the first bolt after that the bolts are sufficient. The upper half of the route involves 3 short boulder problems separated by good holds with a rising pump. Jul 8, 2004

A note on the gear. You need trad gear for most of the lower corner, which is more awkward than its 5.10 rating might suggest. There is also an opportunity to get something in just below the start of the crux. Get established on the ledge and comfortably clipped in. You can move a right for a short space on some good, horrizontal finger slots. Here you can get some thin gear in, but we are talking about Sliders, LowBalls, or small TCUs. This will get you to the next bolt. After that, just hang on to the good hands and hope that the feet find some adhesion. You won't find a place to stop after that, even if you wanted more gear. However, the upper section is well bolted and so clean that a fall catches only clean air. Watch the gear placed below the crux, these slots are keepers, and its easy to wanker in the thin stuff so you can't get it out. This route is cool, super cool. Jan 10, 2004

A wonderful route and easy to access. Paired with late afternoon shade, it's a good choice for an after-work climb. I brought a small cam for the top (red or green C3) that took the sting out of the mantel move to the chains. Not a hard move, but your last bolt is down and around a somewhat sharp corner. You might think of bringing another small cam for before the first bolt, or stick clipping it as I myself dd. Aug 27, 2017

Sorry but I feel compelled to speak up on this subject. No disrespect to anyone is intended. In fact this comment is all about respect. Adding bolts to some elses's route to make it less scary or convenient without getting permission from the FA'ers is bad style and disrespectful. PERIOD.... With the advent of sport grid bolting in Boulder Canyon, I can understand how this ethic is being lost or not understood by newer generations of climbers. In fact, it might not be understood by some in the older generations, but we should all respect others creations and routes that require mental as well as physical stamina in climbing. Jun 9, 2015

First, a route is not harder because it has less protection. It is scarier and deserves more of a PG-13 or R rating, but harder is not what it would be, in my opinion. Also, Coney Island may have begun as a mixed crag, but it's a full on sport crag now with draws on most of the climbs. I think bolting a bolt on Give A Dog A Bone so you don't have to bring up a Cam is totally fine and not in bad style or form. That being said, I did not bolt the route and thank Jessie A TON for putting it up! Sick lines all of these. On the last guy that posted, the crux is definitely in the 12b range, no harder. The Pursuit of Frappiness has a crux that is similar in difficulty on Avalon. It takes some getting used to, but if you get the right beta, it's all about trusting the feet and working them up! If you want any beta on the route or anything, just e-mail me or ask! Good luck up there! Apr 23, 2014

This route is way hard for me. Usually I can do 12b in a day yet I've worked this route probably four days and have yet to do the crux. I would argue that Lucid Dreaming and amazing face both classic 12+ have an easier crux than this, but maybe I just have shitty footwork. Nonetheless, this climb is fantastic and a must do for Boulder Canyon. Jun 1, 2013

I found this route much easier than 'The Ticket', both similar with breaks, I am tall though.... A cam is nice before the first roof to assure the clip, we had nuts, but a #2 BD or small cam would fit in the area, several options. The fall how be it slight, might not be fun. ...Jesse's comment is funny, is a route grade harder because it has less protection? Feb 18, 2013

Great route. Several moves where height helps a lot, including the bottom roof, a reachy move in the technical face climbing, and the final crux after the rest. Be sure to unclip the top draw if toproping. Mar 28, 2012

Great route. Climbs the steep face on upper Coney Island just to the left of Der LetzeZug. This route is pretty sustained once you leave the ground. There is a burly move pulling the small roof around the second bolt with some continuous in-your-face near vertical, tech slab climbing with some nice, small crimps. About 3/4 of the way up is a flat ledge where you can get a no hands rest (take it cause you will need it) for the second distinct crux just after the rest. Awesome route, one of the better 12b's in the Canyon. Significantly easier than its neighbor. You may want to stick clip the first bolt or place a small cam in the crack given that it's fairly high on a technical slab. Mar 23, 2011

Really enjoy this route. Mar 8, 2010

This route was originally 5.12b, because when I first did the route there were 2 less bolts than now... someone adding bolts without asking... bad style... and it was a real sport climb... not just another Boulder Canyon Sport Park fiasco.... Jesse Guthrie Mar 7, 2008

Super fun route. Some may want a wire before bolt #1. Jul 8, 2007

Not quite Plan B, although still an excellent route at the grade. Jul 26, 2005

Awesome route! Like it was made to be climbed! The tree is annoying though. Jul 16, 2017

Great route, truly. Not sure what the latest is on it though.... We did it today and found that it's a 2 pitcher, great warmup staying in the 5.9 grade. Linking both pitches requires a 70m rope to get down in one lower, or else rap it. Draw count = 11 bolts (+2 for the anchors). Dec 15, 2013

I didn't like the location of the 4th. bolt. A fall from here prior to clipping the bolt would give you a pine tree enema. The bottom section is way grungy, but climbing over the top 4 bolts was very good. Mar 26, 2011

Wow...much harder (for me) than Runaway! Kind of a weird bouldery start w/ most of the holds seeming to go the wrong way. Lower section was OK, but the upper section (from the big ledge) was really quite cool. The bolts are quite well placed in my opinion...thankfully- as I tested the one at the top of the headwall. Didn't manage to get it clean (this time) and couldn't figure out the moves to get off the last ledge...had to cheat here as I was out of juice. We'll be back so I can work through this one and get it clean. A word of advice- I think that longer draws (like 17cm-20+cm) on the 4th and 5th (& possibly 6th) bolts would help reduce some of the rope drag I experienced. (as opposed to the 12cm draws I used throughout) Jul 22, 2009

Probably the best overhanging 5.9 in Boulder Canyon. Fun and pretty clean now, I didn't kick off any choss on the lower section. Finding it's a little bit of a chore though. Just keep going around to the right side of the area. Jun 26, 2009

Betsy and I finally went up and did this route today. Really fun!!! It is a jugfest with great position and movement, and the bolts are exactly where they should be. The bottom half looks like choss but climbs as well as the top. As for the grade, who knows, and who cares? I would send a 5.8 leader up there anytime. Sep 14, 2007

The route seemed much easier than the last time I did it; Boulder Canyon 9-. I agree with Kyle; this would be a 6 or 7 in the Gunks: much easier than Thin Slabs Direct (7+) or Modern Times (8+). Oct 22, 2005

Climbed this excellent new route on the east fin of Coney Island on 6/11 with Snipes, McClenehan, and Alkaitas. Consensus was BC 9- or Gunks 5.6. Good position and a quality rock, well equipped. Jun 13, 2005

Worth doing but not a classic. The bottom half was a little chossy. The moves on the top half are great, although quite easy. Aug 5, 2004

The upper section of this climb is a lot of fun, but the bottom part (which is shared with Pri-Moe) is not. There is at least one handhold (which is probably used by most people to clip from) on the lower part that won't be there for long. Be wary of the rock on the lower part. Jul 2, 2004

This route is on the far right side of Upper Coney Island. The upper half of this route is enjoyable and climbs intimidatingly steep rock on a series of amazing jugs that if they were at the Sport Park you'd think were manufactured. The lower half seemed rather dirty, uninspiring, and, at one point, somewhat runout. Jun 23, 2004

What a fun route! This website rocks! I would put in my own 2 cents regarding finding the climb, take the right fork, go past Lower Coney Island. Upper Coney Island is now above you. One could reasonably argue that this climb is on Upper Coney Island, just split from the main face by an upward traversing gully reminiscent of the ramp on Bell Buttress up to Cosmosis. To find No Name, basically just catch up with the Upper Coney trail after passing Lower, keep going right, staying close to the wall, the wall and trail will pass a low point and then turn left and head uphill to the north, finding the climbs shortly. We did the "down grassy" slope and ended up in Road Bomb City poking around the top of a roadcut cliff. To be avoided. May 15, 2003

A steep, exciting and fun route. The crux headwall is height-dependent and may be harder than 5.9 for shorter climbers. I'm 6'2", and was just able to reach a key handhold to pull myself onto the ledge atop the headwall. A note on the approach: this climb and Pri-Moe are on a crag about 100 yards right of Lower Coney Island.From Lower Coney Island, head right and follow a path that traverses a grassy hillside to the crag, then head around the right side and up the hill a bit until you see the bolts. Steep, exciting and fun. Crux is height-dependent; probably harder than 5.9 for shorter climbers. Oct 29, 2002

There is mass quantities of lichen everywhere, and crumbling holds through the crux. I personally felt this climb's crux was incredibly forced. The climb would be much more independent if it just went up the right ramp a couple more feet. You could skip the crux and then have good 5.10. FYI beware of the loose blocks on the start of the climb. Although not massive, they definitely could end your partner's climbing day. May 8, 2010

It's still shedding. Sewing this up: #3.5 Camalot, 0.5, 0.75, 1, 2, red Alien. If you want to make it a touch harder, move left at the obvious jug/horizontal crack and do the arete briefly. Mar 16, 2013

Don't let the negative comments put you off. My partner and I both led this and thought it was well- protected and very fun. Perhaps it has just cleaned up a lot. May 2015 addition: I've done this twice now, and I think it's nearly a 3-star route. Yes, it has some suspect rock entering the crux (don't place gear in the loose, thin crack/pillar thing below the bolt...you can get a bomber #3 Camalot in the slot under the bulge just below this). Most of the route is reasonably clean, and the climbing is varied and fun. Mar 24, 2012

That little chimney is really fun, you can completely stem out and rest for a minute. Jun 26, 2009

Climbed it 6/11 with Alkaitas leading, who jettisoned some impressive loose blocks from the base of the chimney. It is a worthy line in my view, and really a trad route with a bolt at the crux. Jun 13, 2005

Once this cleans up a bit more, I think it deserves a star (or at least not a bomb). There are some cool moves up the crack and through the slot. Heed Chris' advice about gear in the loose flake before the 4th bolt. If you have a #3.5 Camalot or so, though, it provides bomber pro right below the loose flake. In retrospect, the move up to clip the 4th bolt wasn't bad, but I'm glad I had some gear. Jul 2, 2004

For many years, Bob has done an awesome job in opening numerous routes of all grades in the area. Unfortunately they can't all be gems, and IMHO this one falls into that category. After being bombarded with a steady stream of lichen, dirt, pebbles, and assorted other detritus, I got the coveted "second refused to follow! (or lead)." Maybe this route will clean up after significant traffic, but at present it is quite dirty. Some other minor points: the 4th bolt is placed too high to be clipped before beginning the crux stemming, necessitating small gear in a loose flake. Lowering the bolt would adequately protect the moves into the finger crack without having to risk ripping the gear in the movable flake. Also I'd agree with Kent's comment regarding the rack, in addition to small to finger-sized cams, I also placed #2, 2.5 and 3 Friends. Finally, why are the anchor bolts 4.5 feet apart from each other?! Is there another route planned beneath the leftmost of the bolts? Jun 23, 2004

Make sure you bring Friends up to #3. This is not a sport route. It is well worth doing, but watch out for the loose block. Nov 13, 2002

Thought this would be a good warm up before getting on the harder sport but ended up taking some whips and having to back off. The Bocan 2nd edition also seems to have the topo wrong for this route. However I didn't know and started left in the short dihedral to a ledge and then up into the right-facing corners/roofs. I was shut down working into the corner beneath the large roof. This way may go but not at the grade (10c), and the gear would not be plentiful though a 0.3 I placed kept me off the ground a few times. Sep 13, 2014

A friend and I did this in '96 following the topo shown in the current and last guidebooks. He thought it was solid 5.11 or harder and wound up taking a nasty fall at that roof/protrusion about mid-way up... the rock was a little scaly and the lower half that he climbed didn't appear to have been climbed much. Interestingly, the 1999 Rossiter Boulder Canyon guidebook topo shows "11" at one point in this left start, even though the route is supposedly 5.10c. We later checked in with Dan Hare, and Dan mentioned that the route actually started in from the right as for Coney Island, and that the guidebook topo was wrong. We came back in 2006 and started on Coney then traversed left (as shown in the photo above), and it felt about 5.10d or 11a that way and adequately protected. Maybe that left start shown in the guidebooks is waiting for a first ascent, though seems likely someone has done it that way by now? May 19, 2013

We tried heading up the corner system, left of the bolted route in the above photo. I had trouble getting gear that felt solid, and the moves seemed way hard compared to other routes at the grade in the area. Got totally shut down. May 15, 2013

It's nice to see someone else has problems with this pitch. I too got up to that roof and got completely shut down, and I ended up downclimbing and bailing. I'd be curious to hear if anyone has actually succeeded this way. May 6, 2012

I'd like to hear more about the starts to this route. We started on the left, under the obvious small roofs, and got totally shut down trying to move up under the bigger roof, about 30 feet above the starting ledge. Poor hand holds and no feet...it seemed a lot harder than 5.10. Can someone who has successfully climbed it this way comment? Has anything broken, or am I just weaker than I thought? Wish we had thought to try the other option, starting on the right and moving left at the roof. That looks more doable. Mar 24, 2012

This route does not start on the right. Mar 1, 2012

I've always enjoyed this boulder problem on a rope. It has been my standard Coney Island warmup for years. There's not much to it, unless it's at your limit, in which case it will probably get your heart racing for a few seconds. It's worth doing at least once. Oct 18, 2013

A classic in my book! There are 2 sets of anchors. The 1st is about 40 feet off the deck, and the upper anchors are about 110 feet. Do not attempt to link both pitches with a 60m rope. A 70m or longer will do the trick. Jul 17, 2017

Wonderful climb with big hand holds and good rests. Felt 8ish. Be super carful on the approach! Everything is loose and one wrong step and rocks good careening down onto the road. Not a good place for climbing parties! Thought the approach was slightly easier on the east side then the west. But, I did not find well defined trail on either side. Aug 25, 2009

Fun, not the most obvious moves near the top off the ledge...difficult O/S lead for me (for what that's worth). Placed several pieces (small to medium cams) between several of the bolts, including a small cam & a BallNut above the last bolt for the move to the anchors. Did it again on TR to pull the rope...MUCH easier and more enjoyable the 2nd time. I'm confident that when we get back up there it'll be a much easier lead. The base area really is quite loose- sandy and sloping...difficult to get a good place to stand where you can see the climber. Jul 22, 2009

Climbed this today after waiting for the snow to melt off the approach. Definitely worth a visit. There are many thought provoking sequences separated by good rests. I also placed a #1 Camalot after the last bolt. Thanks to whoever took the time to clean up this route! I had to park in the small pull-off that serves as the entrance to the parking/picnic area because the road down to the river was closed off with an orange fence. There is still enough room for 1 maybe 2 cars to fit safely. Apr 24, 2009

Climbed this two days ago, incredible route. It really was a bit runout at times, but if you're a confident 5.8-5.9 leader, it shouldn't freak you out too bad. Great route, though! Mar 14, 2007

I trundled the loose block just left of the first bolt today. It took only a slight push with my foot to send the block to the ground. There is now a nice flat ledge where the block was; this should make the move past the first bolt a little easier. Oct 22, 2005

Ivan, Certainly the routes on Sleeping Beauty are great.Which 5.8 on Sleeping Beauty are you comparing this one to? There are few sport 5.8s around that are as good as this one. It is long with lots of climbing at a consistent grade. It gets full sun on cool fall days and no one else was there. I think it will be enjoyed by many. If you don't like it, don't go. I hope you did not use the convenience anchor when you climbed it trad. Oct 19, 2005

Whether climbed sport or trad, this is no "brilliant route". It pales in comparison to, e.g., the trad and sport routes on Sleeping Beauty. Oct 19, 2005

A silk purse from a sow's ear, Runaway is amazingly good given the nondescript terrain it covers. A reported 4 DAYS of cleaning brought the route to its current condition, which perhaps sheds some light on why our various vocal trads ignored the route until the bolts made it easy to locate. Note to "but there's gear" activists: this route would *never* have been done ground up trad (not because it isn't possible, but because death blocks and moss aren't appealing). Now it's going to get climbed every weekend -good job, guys. Stiff for the grade at the top crux - I'll call it old school 5.9+. Go do it. Oct 19, 2005

A brilliant route in a beautiful setting. At this time of the year, it is in full sunshine in the morning. A classic fall day without a cloud in the sky complemented the route. What a find! Good job, Rick & Brian. Oct 16, 2005

Climbed this route tonight. Long pitch, lots of easy climbing on good positive edges. But not sustained at the grade, one (8) move IMO. I placed a blue Alien above what I thought might be the crux move. Did throw a #2 Camalot high in the crack in the last 10'. FWIW, I would feel comfortable leading this trad with small wires and Aliens, and a #2, but I have no problem with the bolts, as I clipped them tonight. Without clipping bolts, this climb would be interesting for the grade. Will go back in daylight sometime to do just that.... One note...the breadbox-sized block 20' off the ground moved when I touched it, and if not removed, might injure or kill someone sooner or later.... Oct 7, 2005

I looked at the photo and thought, "This is a trad climb!" So today I checked it out on self-belay. The bolts were useful...to find the start of the climb, to know when to leave the main crack system, and to rap from. Other than that the gear was straightforward except when first leaving the main crack. There, the first piece was trick, and the next piece was a fair microcam with optional long sling over horn backup. After that the gear is again straightforward. The "this crag is all sport" excuse won't work, since there are, counting from Rolofson's version 1 guide, 5 all trad routes plus 1 variation here, plus there are 2 mixed bolt/gear routes, The Bait and Pri-Moe. The "needed cleaning" excuse won't work I think, since the FA party recommended bringing some trad gear (and so why not all trad?), and the cracks don't look like they were significantly cleaned. As for quality, ignoring the sport vs trad issue and assuming this cleans up some, I still don't get the 3-star talk. I think it's a 1-star compared to other 2-star trad and sport climbs in this grade on this site. As for difficulty - much easier than many Eldo 8s, and way easier than the Cozyhang (an alleged 7). Can't say relative to the 8 sport routes. Maybe comparable, but I can't remember the ones I've done so well. If you're going to do this trad, bring nuts from big brass to about 3/4". Cams from micro to #2 Camalot with doubles from about 1" up. About 18-20 slings, including 5 or more full length, since you'll probably be using more pieces of gear than there are bolts. If you're a beginning trad climber, consider bringing a rack and clipping every other bolt. The soil at the base is very loose and sandy. Tread carefully. Someone, the FA party presumably, thoughtfully constructed a nice but somewhat shaky platform at the base. There is a loose block that you'll be tempted to grab a few feet off the ground. It may be keyed in and safe, but it moves, so best to avoid it. Oct 5, 2005

An excellent pitch; perhaps the best 5.8 sport route I've done in Boulder Canyon. Moderate climbing at the bottom which gradually gets harder the higher you go, with a crux around the 9th bolt. I placed a medium wired nut below the crux, and a #1 Camalot in the corner leading to the anchor. A 70m rope is perfect; you can lower and touch down with several feet of rope to spare. Sep 27, 2005

Sort of different beta and cont... From the break, left hand to good hold and match, then right hand to two finger crimp, left hand to undercling. Then I go right hand up to the gaston in the slot, left hand comes up to a sharp crimp just to the left of the right hand (this seems to be a foot hold and not used much). Go left again to the good pinch, some good footwork will make those moves easier. This beta may not be the best considering there were a few chalked holds out right I didn't use. Sep 13, 2014

Okay...so obviously I got to the break in the climb! Then I enter the dihedral hold the left good hold. Go up right hand to a gaston undercling thing, left hand to the undercling. Then, I bump my right hand to the 2 finger crimp, and can get my foot around the arête! Does anyone know any beta from here or any alternate beta for this climb? It would be greatly appreciated! Nov 11, 2013

Squeezed and contrived 1 star route. Kind of silly when I somehow feel that I need to try and stay off of the holds on the Good Book and Mustard Seed. I could have clipped bolts on those as well during the climbing... classic example of BoCan gone wrong. Jul 11, 2011

Best route at the cliff, though that is a very measured compliment... May 15, 2008

As I recall, we found a chipped hold in the middle of the face above the 3rd bolt. Either chipped or a shallow scar from an aborted bolt placement. Apr 19, 2003

Not a bad route, although quite easy to join into the good book, if you stick to the arete you will be o.k. with some feet on the face to the left of the arete, the move after the little roof seems to be the crux. A short route but great for a short days climbing, this whole crag actually. I give it 2 stars. May want to rap from this route, rope drag may be a factor. Sep 13, 2001

An OK route, I went with a taller friend and he found it more enjoyable than me, so maybe a bit better if you have a long reach. The bush is really awkward, as you have to climb through it. Nov 22, 2011

And as a bonus, you get to climb basically through a rather large bush! Actually not a bad climb, but short like the rest of the routes here. You may wish to protect your first move off the ground with a larger cam if you don't feel comfortable with the looks of the start. Aug 14, 2006

Pretty good. May 8, 2003

Best pitch at the crag (I did not get on Repo Man after Victory in de Feet beat me into submission). Nov 26, 2017

People are bagging on this route, and I suspect it's due to the controversy of the crag, but you should definitely get on it. It's pumpy and good the whole way. I won't give any moves beta, but I found two distinct cruxes split by non-trivial 5.9 climbing. First crux seemed to be getting off the ground, though once you figure out the sequence, it's not too bad. The second crux is at the roof, with the big pinch hold. I found it pretty strenuous to pop my feet over the roof and get situated in the finger crack. Two more moves on thin feet and you're through the business. All that said, it's probably around 10c overall and great fun. Jul 12, 2014

Very nice route, and it felt like there was a lot going on in this short route. Tough start I thought - if you aren't a strong 5.10 leader you might consider stick clipping the first bolt or 2.... Oct 22, 2012

Agreed best route at the crag. Great moves and somethings always there when you need it. Jun 10, 2006

One and a half stars maybe. Best route at the Cornerstone. Jun 3, 2003

A great route for the 5.10 leader. The route is great as it is sustained from the ground up, the mantle is a great finish to the route, getting to the anchors. Perhaps a little overbolted (as most of the routes here) but clip what you want I guess. Sep 13, 2001

Fun and very well protected, but the rock is a little tricky to read. I would not recommend this to the new 5.8 leader. Sep 7, 2014

I agree that this isn't a great BEGINNER lead, but it's a fun route for those beginners looking to push themselves a little. And it's pretty short and well bolted. All the bolts are in great shape as of yesterday. Oct 22, 2012

Have to agree with Liz here. I have led many 5.8s and found this one to be pretty sporty for 5.8 (guess that's why there is a plus sign after it in the guidebooks). I actually found it more challenging than the supposed 5.9/5.10 climb on the left side. The climb is safe, though, because it is well bolted; so, have at it, but imho would be challenging for a newer 5.8 leader. But hey, everyone has different strengths and likes. An enjoyable, if short, climb. Aug 13, 2006

I disagree with the comment that this is a good beginner lead. The start of the route was a bit sketchy, and I did not feel secure and was just following it. I don't recommend this as a beginner lead. Aug 13, 2006

I have to disagree with everyone. I thought this route was terrible. Jun 10, 2006

Enjoyable climb. May 8, 2003

I agree that this is a great route for beginners, and it's also a pretty good warmup route for an 5.8. Sep 6, 2002

A very nice beginner lead, easier if you start the route on the arete (right) it may make it easier to get to the dihdral. Other than this a very straightforward route, with enjoyable climbing throughout. Have fun... I give this 3 stars. Sep 13, 2001

I'm with Bubbster on this one. He usually downgrades everything, so if he says the move is 5.12, it surely is at least that. I've tried this several times, and I can't even figure out what the move is supposed to be, and like Tony says, it's not just a single move but a couple of hard moves until you get to a jug. The feet just seem non-existent. It's bolted close enough to French-free through the crux if you finally give in. Jun 28, 2014

Try it when it is humid out. Felt like 5.12 to me and my partner then.... Triple clutching and deadpointing onto slippery slopers. Maybe the 'jug' is gone? I sure went off of some small stuff and had a series of moves rather than 1 move. Had more trouble with this thing than other 12s I've been on lately, but you could wander way off route and make it very easy. The whole cliff if pretty packed in and contrived. May 15, 2008

I know Boulder Canyon grades are soft, but this route is stretching it a bit. It definitely has one tricky move, but that doesn't make for a 12a. Like almost all of the newer Boulder Canyon sport climbs, let's knock it down two grades. That would be a bit more honest. Jul 25, 2003

Barely one star. Jun 3, 2003

Sort of a one move wonder. Oct 2, 2002

Yes, it does share a hold with The Good Book. I hate that when I was climbing it I was thinking to myself "is this thing on?" However, after that it has some fun and tricky moves. Plus this is a decent little wall in a scenic part of the canyon. I agree with the person above me, too many people are overly harsh on BoCan. Sep 7, 2014

There's no way this gets a bomb. The crux is interesting and makes the short climb worthwhile. You guys are too hard on BC. Jun 28, 2014

+1 Jason. One of the worst routes on one of the worst grid bolted crags in BoCan. Jul 11, 2011

Jason, not to disagree with your overall opinion, but if this is the worst you've climbed in the Canyon, you have OBVIOUSLY NOT climbed there much yet. There are worse, and several of them. Wait until you see the manufactured routes... "I'll show you contrived." May 15, 2008

Squeezed and contrived. Jun 3, 2003

Also a one move wonder. Oct 2, 2002

A decent route, although easily mixed with the route to the right (the good book) try to limit yourself just before getting to the obvious jug. (5th bolt) There is a 1/2 finger pocket for the left hand and a right hand crimp to get you up and left, below the jug, from here it eases, a good route, but perhaps a little squeezed in. I give it 2 stars. Sep 13, 2001

Peter Hunt and I did this route last Sunday. It's very short, 20 feet, about 14 moves long. The rock is a bit crumbly but otherwise pretty solid. Maybe not 13a but fun movement up parallel seams. Beautiful setting. Sep 25, 2006

This is easier than the hike, but it was harder than 5.4 for me due to wet rock. Sep 10, 2014

You don't need to start on Sofa Mart. The direct start is fun and is probably V4-V5 to the first bolt. Mar 8, 2013

"You do not need to touch the guano." I didn't touch it, but it was less than an inch from my face! A little dirty but packs a lot of fun for such a short route. Oct 1, 2012

Matt Samet and I climbed this on February 3, 2010 thinking it was an open project. Good route! Jun 24, 2017

The big (BIG) flake you come into around the 4th bolt was flexy, scary flexy. Nov 1, 2014

Fun route. I'd give it another star if it wasn't so short. One tough move getting past the 2nd bolt then fun 5.10- climbing to the anchor.... Oct 1, 2012

Good climb; nice, smooth stone. Very bouldery! Aug 17, 2010

This is a 5.10, but you have to think carefully about the moves before you commit to them. You can get to the top to set up a top rope without climbing the 5.4, but it is easy to climb if you want to. Sep 10, 2014

This feels harder than Couch Fire. Sep 16, 2017

Impressive. Good job. I put in the anchors and cleaned it somewhat, but it was well beyond my abilities. Hope some of the other routes serve as a warmup. Feb 7, 2010

A great lead by Chris on a freezing-cold day. This crack is super-bouldery and much more of a 5.12d than a 5.12c; it's also cleaning up nicely. Climb up to the hand jam, load some thin gear, downclimb to the ground, catch your breath, gun it! Many thanks to Greg Hand, Bob D, and crew for the anchors atop the crack and their good work at this crag. Feb 7, 2010

Great route name! Feb 7, 2010

The holds in the middle of this are "jugs", but the holds at the top and the bottom are small. Sep 10, 2014

Using the description above, I thought I was getting on this route. Turns out I was on Pussycat. Oh well. Aug 27, 2008

Speaking from a competent Free Climber. It does not matter how we get there, as long as we get there. Using crimpers or the crack is irrelevant. These route descriptions are a general tool for people to get started. Thanx for your comment.JOEYT Feb 23, 2003

Actually, you can climb this without crimpers. The crack is good. It is more entertaining than the normal finish and protects well. Go for it. (easy for 5.10a) Feb 21, 2003

Just climbed this with my son for Father's Day. It's the 7th time I've done this route and still fun but seems to be harder than it was 25 years ago.... Jun 19, 2016

This gets a puddle of ice right after the first belay that doesn't melt very quickly. If you combine this with approach shoes and cold hands, it feels a few grades harder. Jan 17, 2015

I linked P1 and P2, rope drag was minimal. I found it hard to protect the traverse, which really caused my second some stress. Something to think about if you bring a friend who's uncomfortable smearing. Apr 22, 2012

One of the first ascentionists of this classic climb, Mike O'Brien, passed away within the last couple of years. I learned this about a week ago when on a road trip to El Rito, N.M., Henry Lester pulled out a collector's quality, Swiss-made, wood shafted, north wall hammer to pound in the tent stakes. After remarking on its beauty, Henry informed me that he had acquired it from Mike's estate. I doubt that when Mike bought this hammer as a young man in the '50s for his alpine adventures that he imagined that it would ultimately be used by two sport climbers to hammer in tent pegs some 60 years later, or even imagine "sport" climbing for that matter. But, he might have appreciated that some of his associations with climbing, whether that be his hammer or his super cool route, Cozyhang, have remained within the climbing realm. Oct 14, 2011

This was only the second climb I had ever done back in Fall 1960, and I thought it was a real grunt fest. I managed the route well enough, but I've been back only once since and still don't care for the climb. It was still a grunt. Other than the E. Slab route, most Dome climbs are pretty devious. I've always preferred Cob Rock for Boulder Canyon elegance. Sep 10, 2010

Back in the '70s, before it got so polished and slick, you could walk right up it, even in non-sticky shoes (Royal Robbins), that's where the rating comes from. First time I did it (1972), I was told it was a "tricky 5.6, just trust your feet and don't hug the rock". That's a pretty common occurence in high traffic areas. Look at all the holds in Eldo that are greasy with chalk, if you don't use chalk the rating feels like at least 1 or 2 numbers above the original. Jun 25, 2010

I don't understand ratings in this area. I can usually handle 5.9 leads, but this one, while one of the best routes I've ever done, was psychological warfare. Jun 25, 2010

Distinctly undergraded - more like 5.9 in my estimation. P1 technical move past overlap with polished rock, P2 very awkward, P3 a struggle. UK grade HVS 5a, 4c, 5a. More pigeons than Trafalgar Square! Oct 28, 2009

For the second pitch we went right around the block from the first belay for some reason. This is a bit of a grovel up an easy chimney. Still ended up at the second belay spot below the devious P3 crux roof problem. I do feel that the P1 and P3 cruxes are 5.8. Oct 8, 2009

I honestly felt getting over the third layered roof on the first pitch was a harder move than the crux roof on p3. Maybe because the pigeons living on the crack of the roof were rooting for me. The cozy belay spot isn't so cozy, but the traverse isn't all that bad if your careful. Jul 24, 2009

I really liked this climb. P1 is the easiest one.... P2 is fun... have to downclimb from the belay stance. But not that hard, good holds and short. P3... well there is one move and I couldn't figure it out. It's not that hard but really awkward. Honestly, I pull on my rope to get over this, but I will got back and nail this one down. Jul 12, 2009

I kicked off Boulder Canyon season today with the always enjoyable Cozyhang. The fixed pieces all seemed pretty solid (still, I backed most of them up.) A big thank you to whomever left the sling under the big roof. It made p2 much more enjoyable, especially for my second who appreciated not having to down climb. Apr 8, 2009

Watch out for pigeons having sex on this rock. It is the pigeon brothel of Boulder. Sometimes it can be very frustrating. If you spit on them, they fly away. Dec 8, 2008

This is the hairiest 7 I've done or seen, have had less flop sweat on a 10. Belaying the second pitch from under the big roof feels pretty exposed and heady for a relative beginner. I agree that the mix of moves makes for a great overall climb. Jul 18, 2008

One glory of climbing is that we can all have different experiences on the same moves. Climbed Cozyhang for the first time this morning. The 3rd roof bulge on P1 felt harder than any single move on P1 of Werk Supp. I slipped off, got mad and cranked through second try. The top roof, however, felt like an awkward 5.6 boulder problem. Pushing off a right hand jam in the wall behind me made it casual. Jun 28, 2008

The roof on the fist pitch is a bit tricky until you figure it out. Not sure about 5.7, but it's only one move. I have yet to be able to pull the roof on the last pitch. I have finished with the east slab. I about dislocted my shoulder a number of times..ha! Im sure it's all there but I just can figure it out. Sep 20, 2007

This would get three stars if not for the pigeon shit everywhere... Jul 4, 2006

Have climbed on the Dome many times and have introduced many friends to the sport here. Recall a time I climbed Cozyhang with a climber met on the bulletin board. I led all pitches and when we got to the top, he (forgot his name) flopped on his back and exclaimed, "5.7? No way!" I didn't mean to sandbag him. Another time, with Charlie, (a partner of many roadtrips (Castleton Tower, Shelf Road, Indian Creek, etc) and alpine climbs), we climbed Christmas week when there were many inches of ice seeping out of the crack at the traverse into the slot. I was glad I wasn't leading! Mar 22, 2006

Fun route, although I like the Owl a bit better. I linked p1 and 2 - the rope drag was getting pretty bad at the end, but not unbearable. The traverse is kinda tricky, but didn't feel any harder than say 5.6ish (good pro before and after the hard moves). The second definitely needs to be solid at that grade. I've done the crux roof at the end several times now, and wow, it sure feels hard for a 5.7.... May 9, 2005

Not a whole lot that feels real "cozy" about this route. I would echo a comment above that even seconds need to be pretty solid because there are some traverses necessary that you just can't completely protect. Unclipping and downclimbing under the "cozyhang" belay is a tricky bit for a newer climber. It's all there, but a little polished and you can't always see your feet the way you would like because of bulges. Also that pin at the top of the final roof has got to be the mankiest thing i have ever seen. Should go any day soon and wouldn't trust it for anything important like maybe say, your life. Nice to be able and get out in climb in January at 65 degrees! Jan 21, 2005

Damn I'm stupid. The crank part I was referring to just below the finish was supposed to be on East Slab. Forgive my idiocy and forget the bit about the rest ledge... It's on East Slab.~Wm Oct 29, 2003

You are quite correct Adam. I apologize for not articulating. My point was that the feet are small and polished (a la pigeon) for the traverse and woe betide the second having to unclip the piton and downclimb to the traverse who is not lead-solid at a 5.7 grade. It is just a little spooky for anyone new to the grade, etc. When I mentioned the alternate finish, I was referring to the 5.10a/b crack-traverse that I believe Ben Mottinger has a picture of on The Owl. You may reach this by not passing it on the way to the last overhang of Cozyhang (there are what... five on the route if you include the starter overhangs...?). It takes immaculate cams in the 1-1.5" range if I recall and gives you a bit of a pump due to the lack of feet. That's what I was referring to, though I remember the bit JUST below the top of Cozyhang (getting off the rest ledge and up to the last 10 feet) was also a bit challenging for my girlfriend. Trust the rope, try something funky, and as James Garnett says, Crank, I tell you!!! ~Wm Oct 29, 2003

Hmmm...I think you are wanting to say that the traverse is 5.8 while my comment was directed only at the overhang on the upper pitch. I'm not sure if I'd necessarily agree that this is too sandbagged at 5.7, but might make a note that it's a difficult 5.7. The upper overhang, however, is definitely harder than 5.7, going at what I would say is either a hard 5.7+ or tricky 5.8-. Oct 28, 2003

After climbing this for the third time the other day, I'm inclined to say that the traverse is a bit sandbagged. At least at 5.7 anyway. I agree with Adam. 5.8 is my grade due to the size of the holds and moves. Rope drag can be a bit of a bear... If you have time, make it three pitches. If not, link one and two together, but make certain your rope doesn't get snagged in the notch just west of the 'hang. Anyone know the real rating for the alternate finish at the top of pitch two? I onsighted Blind Faith on the Bastille and fell on this. Maybe I was too pumped out from a recue performed, but still... If you choose to do this roof (which you ALL should), throw a cam in high, clip it, and go for the fist jam after two positive hands in the crack. It's a GREAT finish.~Wm Oct 21, 2003

I think the roof might be sandbagged, but not all that much. I'd say it goes at a tricky 5.8 or 5.7+, personally, the crux being figuring out that your head is the most versatile piece of equipment in your quiver. I just put my foot out left on the good ledge, hands on the chalked flake and went left hand way up to the small v-slot, then jammed my head, right hand in the pocket, and right foot up. from there I could peek out, reach right hand up into the seam, and sort of squeeze with my legs straddling the arete until I could reach the bomber handhold at the back. It pumped me out, sure, but I thought it was just tricky, and you just have to stay balanced and not worry about things like exposure and pro (namely the fact that there's an ankle breaking ledge below your last piece you will surely nail). I've climbed easier 5.10's, though. Anyone try the 5.9+ on th eleft-side, I think it's called Gorilla's Delight? Whatever the second pitch is, that first .9+ corner is a bastard. Maybe it's just something with th eDome... Sep 18, 2003

I agree with the last poster: tricky bulge on the first pitch. I'd also like to suggest that trusting the fixed pins here (and elsewhere on this route for that matter) is not such a great idea. My brother and I did this last weekend, I led every pitch, and didn't clip a single pin...many are have cracked eyes, and all are manky. Doesn't matter too much, though, as there is plenty of gear placements wherever needed. The last pitch's roof is definitely a sandbag at "new school" 5.7 -- but, if you get stumped, it eats up the gear and shouldn't be too tough to aid through if necessary with just a couple cams and some long slings. Great route. Apr 17, 2003

I'd hate to see the sequence shot for that guy's maneuver. Makes my back hurt just looking at it! Apr 12, 2003

I agree, this top roof is harder than 5.7 to onsight, but is maybe 5.7 after you have it wired. I remember the first time I cranked over the roof I thought "must be a good jug here if this is 5.7" - 30 seconds later I was still looking for it. You have to stem and use the feet well to get over this. The E Slab roof is also tricky for many beginners although at a considerably easier level. Mar 3, 2003

Myke, I agree about the roof seeming harder than 7. Did it yeserday. Did The Owl and finished going up thru this "A" roof variation. It protects well and even has an old pin to clip up near the opening, which I backed up with a stopper. Once you pull up thru and are standing up there exposed, you realize there isn't much to work with except for the one crack which I threw the last two fingers on the right hand in and locked. Not much for the left hand to grab. Thankfully your standing on the chocked up ledge underneath. I placed a shakey .3 camalot in the shallow crack that probably would have pulled had I fallen, as my fingers began to slip from persperation while I pulled the rope for the clip and thought of a acquaintance who decked from there and broke his ankle a few years back. I managed to regrip and crank up enough to reach a knob for the left foot and a rest. IMHO it felt harder than its rating but it was fun nonetheless. Oct 14, 2002

You can also link up pitches 2 and 3 with acceptable levels of rope drag. I remember having 2 pieces for the traverse, both with shoulder slings on them.... after scrambling left and then back right, the rope was straight down from me once I was at the roof. Why is this roof so hard for me? Maybe it's that old-school 5.7 rating... stupid old-schoolers, denying me my ego-stroking boost... Oct 13, 2002

What a great, unusual route this is! When I first started climbing it seems I was always at the Dome. There are a few great moderate routes here. I remember thinking the bulge on the first pitch was so desperate... It still is non-trivial. A few years ago, with George Bell, I led this route in one pitch with no simul-climbing! Now this involved some SERIOUS rope drag! Why do this? We were trying to go fast and do this, the Owl, and the East Slab during our lunch hour. I'm not sure doing this as one pitch sped things up though. It's got to be one of the more ridiculous things I've done while climbing... Jul 9, 2002

Great route! We did it in 2 pitches instead of 3. If you use long slings you can skip the first belay head right on up to the second belay ledge without the rope drag getting too bad. Watch out for bird poop! Jul 9, 2002

You can easily lead this with just a set of nuts and hexes. Oct 22, 2001

Did the 10a variation today with Charles--instead of exiting through the normal V-slot, take a hand crack angling right, just 15ft from the belay then continue to the summit via another nice crack. Jan 1, 2001

I am 5'3" so the route is not height dependent.... Jul 2, 2011

I've done this one a couple times...the key is getting your feet in the same diagonal crack you are jamming - I was almost horizontal through the whole crux, but it really didn't seem to difficult, just pumpy. Jun 17, 2011

It's 5 fun. May 9, 2011

Finally got this today. You definitely need to be able to jam if you want to make it. I can't comment on the grade. Apr 24, 2010

This seemed harder than 10a to me. I'm pretty sure that the new guidebook lists this as 10d, but I might be reading it wrong. I am very short (5'6"), and had to use a combination of hand jamming, dyno, and no feet to make it through the crux (which protects very well). The lack of feet made it feel like 10+ to me. Again, I'm short so this may not be true for everyone. Mar 1, 2010

Hard for a 10a? maybe? I could not figure it out for the life of me. I guess I just suck at hand jamming. Apr 28, 2009

No, not a double entry at all. This pitch takes a direct line out the roof above Owl Ledge. Nov 16, 2008

Isn't this the same route as Cozy Overhang? It seems like a double entry to me...but I could be wrong. Jun 22, 2008

The only difference is after the roof. Pull out left over the right-facing dihedral at the first crack after the roof, then follow slab to the top. Oct 23, 2015

I'm not quite clear how this differs from Cozyhang, which goes out the left side of the roof, on jams. How is this different? Oct 15, 2015

This looks like the Cozyhang variation - double entry? Jun 17, 2011

Did a version of this today. Called it the William Shatner. Good fun on The Dome for a potential rain day. We did not do the Cozyhang part. Instead we went up The Owl and traversed right across the diagonalling ramp on the East Slab to the far side. Was some silly fun. Do it. Jul 25, 2013

I'm with Arlo. The fingercrack is the crux (I'd call it 5.7), and there was plenty of gear on the slab. Fun climb! Mar 20, 2012

The crux is the finger crack trending right, with fingers in the crack and smearing on the face, above the drop off for a little excitement. But bomber pro here. Didn't think the slab was runout...but I've been trad climbing for a long time.... Mar 17, 2012

Seemed pretty runout through the slab section to me. Probably only 15ft to easy climbing, but then another 6ft to some tiny nut possibilities, then another 6 to a bomber #2 Camalot. Perhaps I was off route, but I went up what I thought was a reasonable line to the black streak. Also, I thought the crux was in the upper half of the slab (the runout section), rather than the finger crack down low, where I didn't feel that I was smearing. Sep 4, 2011

I started the direct start of East Slab, but when I pulled onto the upper slab and saw someone trying to toss topropes down the route, I cut right and followed the right leaning crack to the black streak and pulled the easy jug roof. This was 5.6 for the East Slab direct start and felt no harder than 5.5 for the rest. Jul 11, 2006

The finger crack is the 5.7 crux of the route, and you do have to smear a bit. The other 5.7 part is the right hand-jam exit, protected with a 2" cam. A good variation to this route that greatly reduced rope drag is to get to the ramp and continue straight up via a series of right-facing flakes. This way is more sustained 5.6 (with less pro) but gets you directly to the black streak. The (harder) right exit ends with a sloping 3" crack, so don't be surprised. Great naturals for the top anchor, though. Sep 15, 2002

I never intended to solo The Dome 792 times since I was 25 yrs. I guess when you like something.... May 31, 2015

I'm not exactly sure how the route finishes. It seemed like there were multiple ways you could climb the top part. All of them looked pretty easy but some a bit more runout than others for a new leader. Aug 9, 2014

Definitely beyond doable in 1 pitch with a 60m. Crux was the start. Jul 17, 2014

Climbed this on Father's Day with my son. This was my first climb in CO when I moved here many years ago & my son's first trad climb this time. It was also my first climb anywhere in about 15 yrs and first lead in about 17 yrs. A really fun climb, albeit a little scary in places for the grade. Getting off the ground is the hardest part, especially for shorter folks (I'm 5'9"). Protects well except for the section above the crack. I climbed extensively in the past and felt comfortable leading this, despite the long hiatus since last climbing. I would agree with some of the other reviewers that this might be a tough lead for 1st time trad leaders but only due to the difficulty of placing pro in the section above the crack. I never felt that there was much difference between 5.6 and 5.7 but could argue for either rating. It was rated 5.5 at one time, but that's probably a sandbag. I'd call it 5.6, but I might just be getting old.... Jun 25, 2014

Runout near the top could be reduced with small tricams in pockets. Didn't bring any, but I see how they could be useful if you are new to leading trad. Sep 6, 2013

Unless I did another route by mistake, (I don't think so) this is a one pitch route, about 50 meters. Good route on quality rock. I think the crux is getting off the deck; the footing is a tad awkward. Feb 16, 2013

Today I on-sight free soloed this route directly. Pulling the roof was awesome. Graciously grabbing both sides of an amazing horn of rock that points ever abruptly down towards the void, my soul told me to cut feet, so I released, stabbed the ledge with my foot and felt dynamic perfection, rested, then continued onwards to the finish. Despite my belief that cruxing is almost completely self-imposed, I think I inevitably had a few edgy moments when the cracks die, just for a few feet, where I had to trust my foot jams, rubber, and ability before running into horizontal seams. I believe these couple moves can be done with utter solidity with a few practice sessions, onsight however, I believe it will be a little precarious for most. All in all, very inspiring route, great rock quality with sweet granite movement. Dec 15, 2012

Used to guide this a lot back in the mid 1990s, so got it totally wired. Once climbed it with my friend Doug in 24 minutes, car-to-car (and yes, we led and belayed the route normally). It was quite aerobic, as I recall. May 28, 2012

This is a great route with varied climbing. It has good jams, a cool roof crank, some tenuous slab, and vertical stemming. Don't let the 5.6 fool you -- this rock is stout. I've climbed comparable 8s, and there's a short runout section that is spooky. The gear placements are available but tricky -- this is not a good beginner lead. Furthermore, the leader goes out of view of the belay almost immediately, and even if you do it in two pitches, communication will likely have to be done with the rope, especially if the river is high. As such, I recommend one pitch, since communication is a problem anyway, rope drag is not an issue, and p2 is super-duper short. Apr 9, 2012

Quality route with different climbing styles and smooth moves. Can be done with one 70m rope. Jul 22, 2011

Probably the nicest easily accessible climb in Boulder Canyon at the grade. I agree at 5.6, but difficulty depends on line taken. Can probably be done at 5.5 if absolute easiest line taken. Sep 9, 2010

Did this today in a howling wind -- 65 mph gusts at Nederland. About got blown off near the top! Great route. Direct start felt 5.7 to me for the first 9 ft. The rest of the climb to the "roof" was no harder than 5.6 IMO. Belayed below the roof, then walked to the left side of the "roof" and climbed the "tall", right-facing dihedral (see pic). Climbing (jamming & stemming) over that 10' section felt pretty stiff for 5.6. After rapping back down (to retrieve gear) I went over the roof the 2nd time about 20 ft right of the tall dihedral, and it was just an easy step over. Sep 6, 2010

Pretty continuous 5.6 the whole way. Holds and pockets materialize just where you need them, but expect solid 5.6 the whole way. I'd agree with maybe not doing this for your first lead as it can be a little heady. Do as one pitch, lots of extra rope w/ a 60 meter. Aug 30, 2010

Did this fun little pitch today and scored a ton of gear. A #3 Camalot, a QD, and two biners', one locking. Made my day! Aug 11, 2010

Jack Fisher solo's the Dome in Boulder Canyon Colorado in his tennis shoes. youtube.com/watch?v=Evwv3I6… Mar 2, 2010

Came back on Saturday, to do this again. This is always a good refresher to Boulder area trad-climbing in the sense that it still has a fair bit of heady climbing above gear (for the grade). There is some (not much) pro above where the crack runs out. However, you'll need a blue alien or yellow zero or one of those new white tricams for one placement, or be prepared to be in a lousy spot placing a #1 Camalot. Especially for the latter, these will feel like psych pro if you're gripped. Which is funny because you can get some AWESOME pro right in the top of the crack, and the climbing isn't that hard in the runout section. Doubly so since the hardest move of the runout section is the one where you commit to leaving the crack. If you blow it there, you won't go far. Nov 8, 2009

Very good climb. UK grade mild VS (just) 4b. Oct 28, 2009

This can be done easily in one pitch with a 60m rope. Walk off to the east. May 30, 2009

This was my first ever outdoor climb - I followed a friend and came back 4 months later to lead 2 of my friends. It's a great place to learn and offers enough exposure to get a beginner seriously excited! Also, I agree with earlier commenters that it's a great place to learn to lead trad. The beginning offers substantial pro, and the hardest move (about halfway) feels very protected. As you get higher it gets slabbier and easier, but chances for pro also dwindle (although they are still sufficient), providing a great feel for being on lead without much risk for first-timers. Overall, an awesome easy intro climb. (another bonus is it can be fairly easily protected with only nuts and hexes - good for a beginner rack lacking the more pricey cams) May 23, 2009

This is a fun lead whether you're a beginner or not. And yes, the first move is 5.7. Mar 23, 2009

** Protection Beta *** For Beginner Leaders: When the top of the crack gets very run out, look for a second vertical crack an arms reach to the right that will take a #4 Metolius or similar sized cam. This protects the route well. Feb 2, 2009

A fantastic route...great climbing and bomber gear! Oct 27, 2008

I've soloed this route about 20 times so hopefully I know what I'm doing, and Cleve McCarty taught me to climb so I'm more old school than anyone here except George, and this route is solid 5.6. A short person unable to reach one of the solution pockets would have to hand jamb the crack and call it 5.7. Excellent route. Apr 15, 2008

I agree with Fred, my first leads ever were Wind Ridge, Calypso, and East Slab. Back in the day, these three climbs defined what I thought of as the grade 5.5 ...makes sense to me! I don't even know what simpler climbs you could have someone lead for their first lead that wouldn't be just a toprope problem. Oct 22, 2007

Guys, guys. At (old) 5.5 difficulty, this route is tit. It just takes some pro-placing talent that the current no-mind color-by-numbers lead climbers can't get. The easiest line one can take up this part of the face certainly goes 5.5. There are many variations. A direct start w/o beta can seem 5.8. I am constantly amazed on how orginal standards are being dumbed-down. If you guys think this shit is hard, try going to the Needles in SD, Devil's Lake or come east to Cathedral Ledge. Jul 10, 2006

This route is fun, but way over rated for the demand of use that it receives! Jun 19, 2006

You don't need anything outside a standard rack; you don't need a lot of big gear. On 11/20/05 there were 4 parties lined up to do this route when we walked off "East of the Sun". Get there early if you want to do this popular route! Nov 21, 2005

Did this over weekend, 1st time. Challenging right at beginning before crack. Crack is cool, then gone to a smooth slab with no holds. Always expect the unexpected - I like that! I dispute the rating - this is a solid 5.6 IMHO. colorado-hiking.net/dome1.html Sep 24, 2005

I found this climb to be very enjoyable until you reach the end of the disappearing crack. Very dicey for the beginner because there is a twenty foot+ runout. The seriousness rating should be PG atleast. Jul 2, 2005

Good route done in one pitch, belay at the tree at the top. You can tackle the roof at the very top or just move right and around it. The beginning felt 5.6+ and 2/3's up when the crack peters out felt 5.6. A first time leader probably wouldn't want that much excitement, otherwise it's a great warm-up for Cozy Overhang, etc. Aug 21, 2004

George- a couple of easier trade routes in Boulder canyon are the Pine Tree route (3rd Elephant Buttress) and the West Crack (Castle Rock). Both of these are also 5.5, but anyone at their limit on either would feel sandbagged by this one, imho. Jul 25, 2004

The route did not disappoint. Excellent quality rock and a really fun lead for relatively new leaders (like me) who are comfortable with a little runout. We had to leave a #2.5 tri cam that fell back into the crack somewhere between 20-30' up the 5.6 start to the route. It's a little too far back to get at with a nut tool, but if someone does fish it out, I'll give them $5 for it. Email me at silverbrothers@cs.com. Thanks and enjoy the route. Jun 15, 2004

I felt sandbagged as a beginner follower and years later as a leader. You'd really have to have it worked, I think to go at 5.5 and most people don't. it's the kind of granite where your toe and finger have to be on the exact little crystal. Therefore, IMO, it onsights for most at .6 or better. Either way, it's recommended. Jun 12, 2004

Led this again for the first time in 25 years. That's right, I'm an old fart. I first climbed the East Slab as part of the CMC IRCS class I took back in 1977. Thought a bit of perspective might be of interest. While I and my partners waited for two other teams to climb the route, I noticed everyone was heading straight for the tree from the top of the jam crack. Back in the 70s we had 150' ropes and belayed below to location, where another comment indicates to crank. Our 150' ropes wouldn't let us do the route in one pitch. The belay point is over to the left. To get there, we'd diagonal up and left at the top of the jam rather than taking the current straight up to the tree route. I know the route was rated 5.5+ back then. The current route doesn't seem much if any more difficult, but has a bit more run out. Anyway the route was still a bunch of run for this old fart. I wouldn't recommend it for a first lead, although (IMO) it's a better protected first lead than anything on the Flatirons. May 8, 2004

A true Friday after-work classic. Hints: At the very top of the crack, a #4 Rock. Jam up high and then reach up way high and to the right (1 o'clock) and there is sloper mantle to a jug....next to the jug is good #5 placement. That way a direct line is taken and the slab sews-up. May 4, 2004

Compared to Eldo or the Flatirons, Boulder Canyon granite always seems slippery and sandbagged to me. I don't really know what I'd rate the East Slab, but it is certainly one of the easiest routes in Boulder Canyon, I can't think of anything easier in fact. I do not believe it is a good "first lead" for a beginner. The rock is slick if you are not used to Boulder Canyon granite and it's not like you can sew the thing up. In fact on the upper slab seems runout to me, but at least it is low angle. Mar 16, 2004

At the risk of starting a ratings debate, I'm adding a bit on this one. The primary difficulty that beginning leaders have on this rock is not that the moves are hard, but rather that they are not obvious. If you go slowly and pay careful attention to the climb---perhaps in a low-threat situation like following---you'll probably see that each move is quite straightforward, but that there is often only one rest stance at any point. It may be necessary to switch feet to be in the correct position to get to the next one. I'm 6'00" and there is exactly one place past the start where I find any need to resort to pure smearing with no handhold; a shorter person might need to make two such moves. At every other point there is a good rest stance (although some of them require thinner edging moves)---the kinds of things I expect to see on 5.4s. WIth that in mind, and considering that the degree of exposure should not inflate the grade, I feel safe in calling this a "fair 5.5." The trick is, of course, to wire the moves together in order to achieve that grade, and you're probably not going to be able to do that if you're jumping onto the route for the first time with no running beta. Note as well that the 5.6 start is like a microcosm of the entire climb: if you know the right things to do, it's 5.6. If you don't, then you can turn the start into a 5.8. (The key to the start is to not trust the chalk marks when feeling about for the correct place to jam.) This route a great example of one where a thoughtful approach will achieve more than a brute-force attack. Mar 15, 2004

The East Slab is a terrific first time lead. The pro is great for the first half of the route. I used lots of cams (#.5 - #3), a few stoppers, and a couple of hexes. A little spooky when the fist crack runs dry, but in my humble opinion, the ample pro will give any first time leader the confidence to finish the climb. Fun! 5.7- start in the dihedral (maybe 5.6+) and 5.5+ for the rest of the climb. Jan 16, 2004

If you don't belay from the tree, but rather the gash about 8 feet below and to the right of it, you can see your partner the whole time (once past the opening dihedral) and cut down on considerable rope drag. Its a third class scramble from there to the walk off gully. Save the trees! Nov 14, 2003

Ok, the black feathers on my lips are from the crow I've been eating for supper... Looks like I was having a bad day back when I upgraded this one. Climbed it a week ago and put four pieces in. I was going for a speed ascent... If you just let the inhibitions go and throw big moves for fun, this is a 5.5+. How's that Smaller? Try it again and look for the awesome feet. If you're having trouble with the end of the crack proper, stack your feet until they can go no higher and look around for pockets. Just for the joke-record, my ascent time was :10 + or - a minute because I was fiddling with cams and having too much fun... Bummer...~Wm Oct 29, 2003

Lead this one yesterday and was definitely humbled. "A mere 5.5," I said to myself. Should've checked the beta here first! I took the direct line after clearing the dihedralon the right side. The crack really does vanish in there somewhere (things are a little hazy) but there are a series of acceptable finger and toe pockets and diagonal fracturesspaced every fifteen feet or so. Traversing left on the top one and then back right under the roof might well yeild an easier route, but I was concerned with rope drag. Pro is good (smallish and medium cams and a couple nuts/hexes/tricams). Still, a south-facing wall in the hot noon-day sun and no chalk made the hands slipperier than I like, but the feet are solid. All in all, an exciting, fun climb with reasonably good gear and great exposure. I'd have to lobby for the 5.6 rating, rather than the 5.5 presented in various books. Not my first trad lead by any means, but certainly one of the more exciting ones. Aug 25, 2003

Very true, William. The footwork on this one makes it a good climb for "intermediate beginner" climber types who are ready for the next challenge, not for first timers wondering what trad is all about. I recently led this with only one good hand (the other too sore from a horked tendon) though, which was a good way to reinforce just how solid the feet are---although it made those tricam placements a little sketchy. Aug 6, 2003

James, I suppose my reply would be that you're correct: there IS always a fingerhold somewhere and there are pretty good stances for gear placement (that is, WHEN you place gear...), but in the one really tricky part about 2/3 up the route, the holds have potential to FREAK out a beginner. That's all I'm saying. It's not impossible and it certainly ain't-not-fun, it's just a tad dicey for the first outing. I was the last climber on one rope (simuling) the first time I did this guy and never felt uncomfortable, but it did make me a little nervous to lead the first time. And crank I shall!WM Jul 28, 2003

Hey William, you must've been having a bad day or been seriously off route; this one is a fair 5.5 after the start. True, the disappearing crack disappears, but the feet are always bomber, and there's (almost) always a bomber fingerhold within reach---and anytime you need to place pro you have a rest stance.I love turning the little wannabe roof off the flake at the top! Crank! CRANK, I tell you! Jul 15, 2003

Great route. I was just wondering why you'd do it in two pitches? Jun 24, 2003

Excellent Route !!! I climbed it for the first time last Saturday. Ample pro until the crack finishes. I recommend climbing it in a single pitch (the Belay station is awkard and hard to protect .... at least I thought so !!!) Not a good first lead .... leave it for your 4th or 5th outing. May 5, 2003

Fun climb. I did this route as my first climb on real rock a couple of years ago and found it a little scary in parts, returned to it recently and of course it was a lot easier! Amazing how the rock had changed...I would rate it as a good beginner climb, but maybe not the best for ones first outing. The 5.6 start is a little tricky and unless u can trust your feet a bit, things get disconcerting when the crack runs out, though only for a couple of moves. Turning the roof can be a little intimidating for the beginner as well. But great climb. Only wish it was 3 times as long! Mar 22, 2003

This is a great climb, it was my first lead trad climbing and was really fun. About half to two-thirds of the way up the climb there is a diagonal ledge that traverses a little ways to the climber's left; this is an easier way to climb the route (and probably the right way). I went straight up without traversing and got pretty nervous because of a tricky move to get up to a spot below the final roof (which is really easy). I hope this helps someone to avoid that situation (which would be scary if this is your first lead...). Feb 27, 2003

To tell you the truth, the start and last third of this route are incredibly sandbagged. I'd give the first 15' a good 5.7+ or better and the last bit 5.8 due to the size of the finger crack. Bad beginner lead and rather daunting for a beginning cleaner as well. Don't hit this one up unless you really know what you're doing. Feb 8, 2003

Liked the route. Not a good beginner lead. Holds are sparse at some points near the top of the crack. It just peters out. Interesting start and a fun route overall. Nov 23, 2002

Great climb! Perfect jams and some fun moves down low, I only wish the crack was another 100 feet long! Once the crack ended, I aimed for a small tree on the top, pulling on a large flake with bomber holds to gain the roof. Lots of variations possible once out of the main crack. Fun! Nov 25, 2001

An excellent route on high-quality rock. A great beginner's lead with the opportunity to place a good amount of pro for practice. A bit runout towards the top, but climbing is easy and there are a few places for pro, if need be. Enjoy! Jan 1, 2001

I typically attempt to refrain from providing such comments, but, beware, if one follows the line shown in Rossiter's book, this climb is VERY run-out above the crack which peters out. It's not difficult climbing, but it is technical. I would not recommend it as a beginner lead. East Slab is much more protected on the slab than East Slab East. Mar 29, 2009

A bit of information about this easy climb. Yes, the East Slab is a 5.6, as 90 percent of the people who do this direct start will confirm. However, do not be fooled into believing that this is a good first trad lead in the Boulder area to attempt. If you are new at placing gear, mixing up crack and face climbing, or taking a few unscheduled run outs, extending draws to avoid rope drag, you'd be better served going to Eldorado and climbing the more consistent but technically harder Wind Ridge or Calypso. With that said, this climb, now often done in one pitch with a 70m rope is on firm clean white granite and provides a varied climbing experience. May 26, 2008

This is a surprisingly difficult route to identify based on the guidebook. We had a little diversion which could best be described as east of East Slab East (oopsies) which was still a fun climb. The advice here to spot the disappearing crack should help. Nov 24, 2006

WTF! I climbed this today, and when leaving the belay 'chair' after pitch 1 and starting the traverse, there are two saw marks! They form a V, slightly backcut, apparently for a small nut! May 1, 2014

Done in one long pitch today. Jan 22, 2012

Hmm. I ended up climbing directly to the right of the roof and into a squeeze chimney. Was pretty fun. Strongly recommend using long slings for this route as rope drag is a pain otherwise. Jul 22, 2011

P2 is described in the Rossiter guidebook as a short traverse east, a couple of moves up a left-slanting ramp, and then "tiny holds" on the face straight up to the exit roof. Climbed the route on 3/21 with S. Costello. They are indeed small holds (mostly lichenous pockets and slopers) and there is no protection for a good 20-25 feet. It didn't look like anyone had gone that way in some time. The climbing on the East Slab crack a few feet away is better protected and, IMHO, a lot more fun. However...the exit roof (not the East Slab flake exit) should not be missed. It involves a slightly wild move before groping for a big ole jug and is the highlight of the route. Mar 23, 2009

I second Matt's comment. This is an excellent route done in one (nearly full) rope length pitch with a 60 meter rope. Also, the finish is the first major crack left of the East Slab Finish. The gear is good enough in the slabby sections to prevent serious falls. I placed a pink tri-cam in one of the huecos and a tiny bd nut in the horizontal (slightly inclined) crack midway up the "second" pitch. Jul 11, 2008

We did this in 1 long pitch (awesome!). Using longer slings on P1, I never felt any rope drag. Have your communication dialed as you most likely will not hear each other after the leader tops out. Medium nuts and hexes and small/medium cams work well on this one. Mar 25, 2008

I totally got off route the first time I tried this and went up the chimney instead. No pro in that but way easy. Tried again with the guidebook and found the line to be directly to the left of the crack on the East Slab. I've even placed gear on this route when doing some wandering leading the East Slab. The gear looks (and is) sparse, but there's placements in all the right places. Bring a red #1 Camalot for the hole you find halfway up. The crack at the first belay station ate one of my stoppers, rapped down, jumped on it, and it wouldn't budge. All in all, this is the easiest 5.7 on the Dome but very fun, on route or lost. Aug 16, 2006

Wow, lots of fun! If you belay from the base of the right-traversing handcrack that starts P2 and extend from the anchor, you can coach your second through the P1 crux. P2 climbs the handcrack up and right a short ways, then straight up a funky uneven crack until it ends (#8 Powercam fits here). Climb slab with pockets to the left angling crack (small cam fits here) then up more slab with smaller pockets. This pitch is completely distinct from East Slab. I've drawn the line (more or less) on a copy of Gary Schmidt's picture, showing its relation to East Slab. Jul 11, 2006

In re-reading my p2 description above, it should read follow the hand traverse a few feet east instead of north. This traverse is found a few feet below the belay. Fun climb! A number 4 cam is also comforting for the final 5.7 crack/roof thing. Nov 25, 2005

Did this one on Sunday and thought that it was really good! The first pitch was easy to figure out and the description of P1 above is great. P2 was a bit more ambigious. I followed Gary's recommended line and I though it was fantastic and not too runout. I was able to place a #2 and a #1 in the horizontal crack (at my feet) before going on to the face. Also, the crack at the end is awesome, don't take the easy way out and head over to the finish for disappearing crack, you'll miss some great climbing. I would recommend being solid at the grade as you'll have to do some hunting to find your way to the top, but you can always wimp out and do the disappearing crack finish. :) Nov 21, 2005

I liked p2 quite a bit. Got in a few pieces of pro towards the start, plugged in a number 1 cam (I believe) at the left sloping ramp, and then scrambled up the slab to the top of the East Slab route. I didn't feel that slab climbing was 5.7, certainly it wasn't as hard as the crux on the first pitch. Rather than go up the fun flake at the top of the East Slab, I went up the crack to the [left]. Fun! Don't know what it was rated in Rossiter, but I've heard it was 5.7, and I'd guess it's around that level. Excellent pro and a fun problem. Jul 24, 2005

For those who may still be wondering I believe p2 goes as follows. From the first belay find a hand traverse crack and follow that a few feet north. Then head up the friction face(about 10 ft left of the east fact crack) with some nice finger pockets until you come to a narrow left rising ramp. Traverse left along the ramp about half way then head up the face on some smallist holds (5.7) until you gain the bigger ledge. Find the obvious crack through the overhang about 15 ft west of the East face (aka Disappearing Crack) roof and jam up the somewhat intimidating looking crack (5.7). From then head straight up to the top. Of course, variations are possible but i believe this is the standard route. Fun climb with some nice variety. Apr 23, 2005

Hey Scott, I think I ended up doing the same finish as you, didn't know that that was the East Slab crack though as this was my first time on the Dome. No matter what it was a blast!! I ended up going up and over the roof almost directly below the tree with the massive flake and a good right foot. You are correct where it looks like it all goes on the face, I think there was a smaller crack to the left that the actual route follows but who knows, it looked a bit shorter with a longer runout. Does anyone know where the correct P2 of this climb goes? Oct 13, 2002

Question: does P2 of this route end with the East Slab crack? From the belay chair, I traversed 10 ft right and the logical finish was to jump into the East Slab crack (luckily, right where the fun climbing begins!) I looked around for another crack, but all I saw were small seams which looked pretty incipient, i.e. wouldn't take pro well. However, it seems like you could go almost anywhere, just banking on if you can get gear or not; any suggestions? P1 of East of Sun/Cozyhang is a full on one-move wonder---but definitely tricky and 7ish. Good route! Aug 3, 2002

Variation for P2. Instead of traversing right from the belay, head up and take the crack just left of the belay. Pop out of the chimney and make a few blank face moves. Head up to the slightly overhanging, right facing corner and jam through it to the summit. May 30, 2002

The route was a bit more contrived than I was expecting, especially for one put up in 1970...approximately 4 years before Prelude to King Kong. Dec 9, 2008

Steve led this pitch. He already had his eye on it. He named it for Konnie Self, who was climbing with me that day (Dec. 3) and whom he had known years earlier. Nov 1, 2014

Gear tip: the crux move of the second pitch, which is the second vertical crack system, has a PERFECT C4 0.75 placement right under the lip. Right as you start up the crack if you look up you will see a little "hole" in the rock on the lip - a green C4 stopped a fall on the crux move flawlessly there. Dec 10, 2015

Are there really music fans who think "Paul McCartney's first band was The Wings" ??? Feb 16, 2015

Funny back at this climb 6 years later: now the lower part (getting off the belay) was hard and then the rest felt easy. I just went right up over the second crux without thinking...last time took a nice fall there and felt totally insecure and pumped. Guess I haven't been crack climbing much lately. Feb 15, 2015

The fixed nut is gone, but plenty of gear can be had. It is pumpy to place, but you can easily downclimb to a no hands stance before committing to the final right foot move which is insecure for sure. I think the grade of 9+ tells you everything you need to know as a leader. Linking this with Prelude in 1 pitch onsight would be proud! Kind of like a bunch of boulder problems split by easier climbing. Bring some crack skills, too. Beta hint: There is an arm bar pulling the lip of the first steep crack section. Mar 27, 2011

This climb is yet another example of 5.9+ being way harder than 10a! Jokes aside, I think the grade is appropriate at 9+, but all of the cruxes are insecure and therefore scary. The gear is good enough, but the climb is hard enough to read that you end up filling up key holds with pro if you aren't careful/lucky (this refers to the King Kong start as well). The fixed nut is still in place at the final crux, which definitely makes this thing easier. It's probably only a #3 BD, but it practically gives you a toprope through the crux, and would surely hold a short fall. Committing to that right foot as you rock onto the final slab is a real mental challenge. I was pretty psyched to grab the jug after that section. Mar 13, 2010

Like every other climb on the dome, Gorilla's Delight is a sandbag. The upper crux is at least 10-. There is currently a fixed nut (which I did not place) in situ at the top of the second crack (after the slab) which protects the crux very well. And it works, as I discovered. After falling a few times off the slab moves above the crack, I decided to belay my second up to the outstanding hanging belay right below the crux, from there he could coach me through the tenuous moves out of the crack and onto the slab. Fun climb! Probably the climb that wanders the least on the dome! Nov 18, 2009

Man! What a fun route, it got me pumped though! I found the crux to be the transition from the arching crack that narrows to fingers and tips to the slabby finish, took a 15 footer! I eventually managed to do it. I found this to be harder then the 10a variation to the second pitch of The Owl. Oct 7, 2009

I also thought the second crux on GD was harder than 9+... although I've felt like most the routes on The Dome are slightly sandbagged, I was cruxing hard, well above my gear, going from the lie back onto the face below the belay crack. Great lead! May 28, 2009

For those trying to onsight don't read further: My gear was as follows: #1 (Camalot) in the crack above the belay, then #0.75 or smaller cams/nuts after that in the dihedral. #1 or 2 (with a long runner) in the same crack once you gain the slab, then a #2 to start the second crack, #0.75 higher, then a great, mid-sized nut and yellow Alien just above the lip right before you set off onto the slab. After that I found it pretty hard to place gear...though you can place some difficult small nuts and a green Alien (yellow-green offset would be perfect) if you can find the time to stop. If you want to TR the cruxs...I recommend setting up a belay right after the 2nd crux. Mid-sized gear in the horizontal or #1-#4 in the crack above. This way you can see your second and avoid rope drag on the easy slabs above. In fact it was nice to run laps on the two cracks. Feb 7, 2009

The thin 'alternate' crack out left at the second crux seems more 5.9+ than the main crack to me. I did climb this after many months solely in the gym bouldering (so crack climbing felt alien), however I thought the second crux was a 5.10 move to lieback, smear, and gain the jugs. Sure repeating it on TR afterwards it didn't feel that bad, but trying to onsight this climb is pretty difficult if you are thinking 5.9+ (and you climb around that grade on trad). Think OLD school grading, make sure your gear is bomber, and relax on the slab (unlike me). Actually repeating it on TR it still felt like a 5.10 move to me and the left crack felt easier - though it would have also been hard to lead. I took a nice long fall with my hands about 6" from the jugs...with rope stretch landed on the slab between the two cruxes below - but not hard. Make sure you place good gear before committing to the slabby 2nd crux, because it is very insecure, pumpy (not really after you know the moves though), and a long fall if your gear blows here as Doug mentioned. Basically I got my ass kicked. At least I went for it (with good gear placed) and took the fall. Overall, a great little line...kind of like two crack boulder problems in a row. I'm not really into free soloing, but leaving my personal feelings aside you have to give the man some props - because that is BOLD even nowadays to onsight. Feb 7, 2009

This thing felt harder to me than some Eldo and Valley mid 10s! May 19, 2007

Great finish for Prelude To Kong, but expect it to be significantly more difficult. I found the crux to be in the corner above the traverse right, where you roll onto your right foot after a fairly sustained lieback. Really not that big of a deal, but it is a bit heady - as you are committed a few moves above your last piece and a good 5+ feet from your next one. It felt 9+/10- to me, but I think a second go at it would prove that the 9+ is more appropriate. Jan 26, 2006

We climbed this tonight and I led P1 and followed P2.On P1, the first move up and around into the dihedral isn't too bad... good holds. The next move is more cruxy and favors taller folks, with decent holds way up high, but not much for feet. My shorter partner,could not reach the high holds and settled for working the thin crack, which is good down low but off hands higher. Once past that move, easy climbing to a ledge.The start of P2 is cool...yard up off the ledge using a good little flake out left and the crack to the right (a bit smooth from chalk build up) to a pretty airy stance. Work up the overhanging corner over a bulge and exit right. Make a delicate traverse right (runnout) over to a nice flake and mini ledge to start the layback. Work up the flake (crux), smearing the feet and reaching left for a high seam, then step up. Follow a wide crack a short distance up to the summit... Oct 15, 2003

Henry's still around. I saw him doing solo laps on the Dome's E. face couple years ago, like he was at the track doing 400 repeats...finish, go back do it again, like 3 times. I was surprised when I ran into him again last month on Reggae, and he was actually roped up. May 29, 2003

As I'm sure many of you know, "Hot Henry" Barber on-sight free soloed this in the mid-1970s and, according to his account, came closer to taking the big one on it than on any of his other solos. When climbing GD this is easy to understand- a difficult start into thin, insecure climbing, and a bit of routefinding on the slab. Henry stated that, in retrospect, it was a poor choice for a free solo, but his approach at that time was pretty much to "do it and ask questions later", so to speak. I always found it curious with his comment that, when confronted with the possibility of a fall from the slab 100+ feet up, he scanned the ground and tried to picture where it would be best to land- as if a fall from that height was survivable. Henry was perhaps the most impressive and accomplished of the 1970s free climbers, and unquestionably had the greatest influence on world-wide climbing standards of any climber at the time. He was one of the first climbers to travel widely. His style was to show up at an area, and blow the local standards out of the water. In one trip, he single-handedly jumped technical standards in Australia by more than a number grade. Other accomplishments include succeeding on the often-tried Butterballs in Yosemite (a climb that everybody who was anybody had attempted) with an almost mystical onsight, pre-camming protection; blazing a trail of desperate first ascents in the Gunks; onsight free-soloing dozens of routes on many different rock types, up to hard 5.10, at a time when the 5.11 grade was only starting to soldify; and blowing the climbing world away with his free solo of the Steck Salathe on Sentinel in Yosemite. His repetoire of moves, creativity, and problem-solving abilities, and his tremendous self-confidence and mental control, set him apart from his contemporaries. In the 1970s Gunks, he was an integral member of the "A Team" quartet: Henry, John Stannard, Steve Wunsch, and John Bragg. Unfortunately, his career ended on a sour note after an epic accident with Rob Taylor on Kilimanjaro in Tanzania. The press was always a bit harsh on Henry, perhaps due to his brash personality (a little backstabbing occurred in the original CLIMB! book when the only photos of Henry were of him failing on Kloberdanz), but his significant contributions to freeclimbing standards are undeniable. I find it curious that many young climbers have never heard of Hot Henry- kind of like music lovers who think Paul McCartney's first band was The Wings. Sep 13, 2002

Nice climb, though the 2nd crux is definitely balancey. One month after I led it (in 1997 or so), I went back with a different partner. He fell at that spot, pulling his gear, and landed on the ledge 25 feet below. He fractured a rib, broke his arm, and sustained a head injury (no helmet). We needed help from Rocky Mountain Rescue to get down the hill below. Place good gear at this crux! Sep 12, 2002

I had a memorable epic on this route once. Doing this 2 pitch route after work one evening we got caught by darkness. Good idea to throw in a headlamp for this one if you are starting after 6 PM! Jul 23, 2002

Can you imagine soloing this in EBs, RRs or anything before that? Wow, Henry. I was trembling, and I had gear! Mar 5, 2002

Mike, did you do this route as you describe it? I gather from your route description you did not but simply added it to the site based on Rossiter's description? I'm taking that on the fact that you list the gear as "no gear for the crux move from the looks of it". If you did do it, I'd love to know your 5.10d beta as I thought it was pretty much 2 number grades harder than that. I spoke with Mark Wilford (reported first ascentionist) and Richard Rossiter (guidebook author) about this route, and they both said the same thing. What's listed in Rossiter's guidebook as "Groove" is actually the route listed as "Pussycat" as well, meaning the two routes are one and the same and the redundant route listing in the guidebook was an accident. To do "Groove" as described in Rossiter's book (route 12b on p12 in Rock Climbing Boulder Canyon) is somewhere between a 5.12 and 5.13- dyno, depending on your height. I'll add it to the database later with the corrected beta etc. Feb 27, 2012

Has anyone actually climbed this before? My partner and I decided to climb all the roof routes here today and I could figure out three. 1) Cozy Overhang, which is about 5 feet to the right of The Owl corner/roof. 2) There is a dike/groove going out the very center of the roof. There is an old fixed pin in the back of the roof and the ceiling is choss, but there's a distinct "U" cut out at the lip where the dike runs up and left. Is this Groove? 3) Pussycat is on the far right side, basically where the roof ends and the rock goes into the chimneyish crack next to East of the Sun. This route cuts hard left along a seam and around the corner to a left-angling crack/ramp. 1 and 3 matched their descriptions well, including their grade. 2 seemed like in the right location, but definitely not the right grade. We got on all three today and the center one is ridiculous. It's a massive, basketball-style dyno from the slab to the lip where a sloper jug awaits, then a funky mantle. A fall from the lip, at least how I mantled it, is asking for a head-first digger onto the slab below. Super "R" if not worse if you botch that. Hell, even the jump is "R". Mark is a mega-strong beast, but he's not exceptionally tall and so the dyno seems unrealistic (especially at the 10d grade) for his route Groove. Also, the roof is chossy with exfolitating flakes and no real holds, so there's no option of getting horizontal on it (especially for the grade). So the question is, where's the route Groove go? Rossiter's description places it exactly here, but I can't imagine that it's correct. I could easily have seen him do either Cozy Overhang or Pussycat and called it 5.10, and then the location of the route got lost in translation in the guidebooks. Any insight would be greatly appreciated, thanks. Feb 18, 2012

Agree you should do this in one pitch. My partner lead the second pitch, and after a couple tough moves right at the belay (the hand crack), the route quickly becomes third class. Jun 29, 2017

Fun. Good pro. Easier 5.7 than others on this crag. Belay spot at top of 1st pitch is less than ideal, but not too uncomfortable. Be prepared to get creative. Aug 14, 2011

The direct start to the 5.5 finish doesn't seem to be mentioned above. This makes a very nice and obvious, aesthetic line, but perhaps is S for pro. Climb the open book to the left of the regular start, approaching it via the blunt arete on the right. This leads to the left edge of the roof and into the second part of the dihedral. The climbing is easy, since it's low angle, but there's not much for your hands or for gear, since the crack is closed off and/or rounded. You get good gear every 15' feet or so--bring double green to red Aliens or the equivalent. Feb 28, 2004

Before you leave the belay ledge you can sling a wobbly chockstone with a 4' runner about thigh level on the right side of the 5.7 crack. The moves up the crack are pretty airy but there are good hand holds on the left and jams in the crack. Nov 13, 2002

You can also start this route about 75 feet below the 5.7 crack, left of the A-shaped roof and the large pointy flake. Cruise left up the ramp to an undercling and make a fun move through the first wall. Angle right to the bottom of the crack, a #4 camalot is nice to have here. Continue as from the first belay in the original description. The route can be done with a 50 M rope in one pitch with no rope drag this way. May 30, 2002

I thought the 5.7 second pitch was far far harder than any other 5.7 I've done in Colorado, and some of the 5.8s. Decent route, but an awful lot of wandering for 5 tough moves. May 11, 2002

I climbed this route yesterday right off the couch and slightly injured. I didn't think twice about going straight up the Owl's first pitch instead of wandering out left. Mentally I thought I was still climbing a 5.7+. When I got to the crux, I was able to find a placement for my smallest BD offset (0.1/0.2), and it sunk in the little seam just before committing to the exciting, crimpy layback moves with sequential footwork. SPICY! I found this to be the best way to climb The Owl reducing rope drag and allowing the option for one long pitch with a 70m rope to reach the summit. Nov 27, 2017

We had a blast following the footsteps of the great Layton, really enjoyed this route, has a little bit of everything. Classic "Kor 5.7" for sure, definitely agree with the other comments, not a beginner 5.7. Aug 12, 2017

I posted this under the Dave Clark photo: Instead of going right to the chickenheads as shown here, I recently followed cracks left and then right to end up just below the huge roof where there is a pin and some tat. From there, a difficult move right can be made (mossy and wet), and I ended up with feet on top chickenhead. Anyone know the name of that variation? Or grade? Rossiter guide makes it seem like the first ascent traversed that way to get into the A-frame/hand crack exit for the end of the first pitch. Aug 23, 2016

It's a bit of a wanderer, but I wouldn't say it's that confusing. Aim for the break in the roof, follow the line of least resistance, and extend most of your placements. Feb 23, 2016

A classic Kor route as mentioned from the previous posts. Not straightforward like Kor's route on Cob Rock, but very thought provoking, route finding and protection skills needed. Bring lots of long runners and know how to use them. A five star, challenging route, that is a timeless classic! Climbed East Slab as a warm up. Oct 18, 2015

The Owl is worth all the stars, but it's a "Kor" route, so that explains the 5.7 rating, but forget about the rating and climb it. My partner was not offering up any beta, so I found it kept me guessing and engaged. I felt like I just climbed a classic and was thrilled. Aug 22, 2015

Sandbagged and confusing, not for a beginner lead - probably best if you are a 5.8-5.9 leader because you can get yourself in some pretty sketch locations if you get lost like I did. The climbing was ok, but not great, combined with the fact that you'll spend half your time wondering if you're on route. D'Antonio gives it lots of stars, perhaps he knows exactly where to go, I almost want to give it the bomb for the aforementioned reasons. Aug 9, 2014

Beware - classic Boulder sandbag! Apr 28, 2014

Yesterday I on-sight free soloed this route. After soloing the slab for the second time and on-sighting the leftmost problem on the East Boulder, therefore finishing the boulder's problems in the on-sight, no-crash pad style, I began up the Owl. Cruising and criss-crossing, I traversed right confronting the "chickenheads". With a quick jerk and snag, I latched a distant knob. My right foot then naturally slid urgently to the lower knob. Pulling over I felt relieved. This initial sequence was over, and went smoothly at that. With a simple yet high step, I was beneath a roof. Confident on hand jams I proceed not knowing the shit show my sight to feet ratio was going to be. Looking back I should have smeared right more, but once I felt the awkwardness set in, I reverted to classic foot below hand jams. Unfortunately the position greatly hindered the sight, feel, and movement of my foot jams, so I put as much body to the wall as I could and powered my hand jams over into the depth of the "V"-shaped slot. Groveling into easy territory, I quickly became free and danced the slab to the final roof, which I found to be the crux. After a few attacks and subsequent retreats, I committed. Right hand jamming high in the right crack, I stood up with my left completely this time, hoping to find a jam or something to sustain gracefully through the obstacle, yet to no avail. I resorted to grope around the left roof arete. Finding what seemed decent in the heat of the moment, I crimped. Matched feet for balance symmetry, and somehow, after a bit of desperation, found a perfect little knob that seemed to be directly above the apex of the roof. Wish I knew that was there. The next few moves appeared to be weird but turned out to be an amazing, exposed, almost completely horizontal rest directly above the roof. Feeling refreshed, I began the escape from my rock bed and stretched my way into the final hand crack. I spent probably ten minutes in the crack feeling the wind and thought before ending the route. Awe inspiring experience. Oddly I felt good about my climbing despite the moments of adverse distress. Jan 24, 2013

Tonnes of fun. Excellent pro. Great fist jamming and some awesome committing moves. Zig-zaggy route, so draw placement and extension were tricky. Nuts and cams, varied to 3". We did 3 pitches to avoid rope drag at the cruxes. This felt pretty natural, except the 3rd pitch was quite short. Communication was difficult on this route (and all of the Dome), especially with a rushing river. May 6, 2012

This was my first climb after moving to Boulder to go to school. Fond memories indeed. Dec 6, 2011

No need to worry about the manky pin on P2: the ring and eye are gone. I wonder if someone accidentally tested it. A grey/yellow Alien fits below the pin. Along with the #2 BD, this felt well protected, as long as your belayer keeps you off the slab. Nov 10, 2009

"The moves through the A-frame roof seemed harder than 5.7 to me -- especially on my first attempt!" The key to that move is the infamous "head jam", makes it a piece of cake :-) (see pictures on CozyHang) Jun 8, 2009

Fabulous route! Climbed it with my wife on Friday. Probably the toughest "short" 5.7 trad climb I've ever led. Protects well, but had to think through the zig-zag bulges and roofs. The moves through the A-frame roof seemed harder than 5.7 to me -- especially on my first attempt! Second try went better after my wife graciously pointed out a good place to stem with my right foot. Despite (or maybe because of) the challenge, I loved the route. I'll be back! Jun 7, 2009

A 70m rope will get you to the top in 1 pitch with bad, but bearable, rope drag (finishing via the p2 .10 handcrack variation). Accidentally did an interesting variation on p1. Instead of jogging left under the bulge and traversing back right, I went straight up to get into the small dihedral before traversing right to the chickenheads. If you look in the photo with the description "Ran is traversing..." the line I did goes up the small crack about 10 feet right and a little bit down from the climber. An insecure layback over ok gear was fairly exciting and felt more difficult than .7. Feb 16, 2009

Left lots of booty yesterday, if anybody cleans my stuff I'd love it back. My partner could not unclip a BD Neutrino QD in the old mangy pin I clipped just for the hell of it. Also, in the final hand crack, I tried and tried and tried until my bloody hands gave up to fish out a green Metolius cam. If found and returned, good beer is your reward. Thanks. May 4, 2007

I'm with Nick on this one. I plugged a Grey Alien in the crack before the chicken heads then spent 15 minutes thinking about going for it. The move is really easy once you grab them but if you have trouble reaching them it can be intimidating. The roof at the top is pretty easy though, skip the piton and sink a number 2 BD to your right to keep the rope out of your way, climb up high, stem super wide, jam and arm, and it's over. I personally found grabbing for the chicken heads to be a lot more commiting than the roof. Overall a great and varied climb but I would have been very unhappy to tackle this as one of my first 5.7 leads. Mar 21, 2007

If 5.7 is around your leading limit and you're looking for climbs in this area, I personally found this to be a little harder than the Standard Route on the Elephant Buttress and a little easier than Cozyhang. And the ten minutes or so that I spent gathering the nerve to grovel over to the chickenheads rank as perhaps the most humbling that I can remember off the top of my head. Jul 24, 2006

I've done another 5.9 (?) exit variation to the ending that slips around the left side of the final roof and climbs a steep face to a frictiony dihedral. Not in the Rossiter guidebook that I saw. May 16, 2006

Watch rope drag on the 1st pitch, and stay on route. 5.7 roof move on the last pitch is committing. Aliens, 1 set of hand-sized cams, and nuts (BD stoppers #4-8) sufficient. May 11, 2006

I've lead this twice now, and it surely feels stout for a 5.7. Definitely not a good beginner lead. That old pin on p2 looks fairly manky (the ring is pretty rusted), probably a good idea to back it up. Apr 18, 2005

I found a stopper below the first belay on The Owl / Cozyhang. I think it's a #11. Give me a call at 303-929-2041 if you want it back. Apr 5, 2005

Fun climb that protects fairly well too the summit. Seems like rope drag could be a real problem on the second pitch if you don't a have a least 1 extra long runner (especially in the dihedral slot). Anyone ever test the pin on p2? Mar 11, 2004

I agree it seems like another classic boulder sandbag. Don't go climb 5.8's at Happy Hour and think you've got it easy. Great climb though. Bomber gear. Tricky but rewarding crux moves. Not a beginner climb, go do east slab. Sep 23, 2003

This was a lead I feared for a long time, in fact I hated following it because I always muscled through the pigeon poop crack and had to take on the roof...a couple nights ago a friend showed me new techniques and it made all the difference. Tonight on lead I learned this route can be easy but I agree it is not a beginner lead. On lead I found (being short 5'2") that reaching for the chicken head on P1 was the hardest move since I was a bit above and right of my last piece. The crack and the roof protect well and in a relaxed state are oh so very fun. Now I gotta find the nerve to lead P1 (over the bulge) of Cozy Hang. Jun 19, 2003

I left a 7 BD hex and a carabiner on 4-12-03 to lower from when I got off route. If anyone wants them they are about an inch up and to the left of the woman's head in that picture of the two people at the base of the owl. Once I figured out the route it was really fun (the two roof sections are awkward, but well protected). Apr 12, 2003

I must have missed the easy way around the roof. I thought It was another boulder classic sandbag route. What a great climb. Both pitches have good moves. Not a good beginer lead. May 27, 2002

The roof on the second pitch can be made very easy by getting a wide (but not too wide) stance in the chest high shelf that starts below the horizontal part of the roof and leaning a bit to the left. Feb 4, 2002

From the belay atop P1, you can also take the 5.10/9+ hand crack that exits the roof 15 feet up and right from you. It's somewhat awkward, in that it's half roof / half hand traverse, but an enjoyable and well-protected exit variation. Jan 27, 2002

Perhaps I climbed this "wrong", but I stepped off the pinnacle and used a twin crack system to reach a fist crack. Upon reaching the fist crack, this is where I thought the crux moves were but in no way were they 11a moves. Perhaps a single move of 5.10 climbing was encountered while pulling out of the fist crack. Not really worth the time to lead but good enough just to squeeze in another route while cragging off the anchors below Super Squeeze. Nov 25, 2012

Make sure you nail the initial moves and place a lot of pro if you are shaky at all at this grade. I busted off the first moves, and I almost left my chin on a sharp ledge that you start on by the pillar. Felt tough. Jun 4, 2007

Agreed with above posters. Tricky as an onsight but a solid 5.9 by local trad standards. Very fun route and much more worthwhile than it appears from the ground. Feb 13, 2017

More or less a one move wonder, but it protects well and it's tricky to read onsight. Definitely worth climbing if you're at the Dome. Mar 27, 2011

I really like this climb. Maybe not as classic as The Owl, but an exciting finger crack problem, with bomber gear placements the entire way. Since I'm not that good, I took the 5.7 crack to the left of Gorilla's Delight and found a sweet sequence of jams. The Dome surely possesses quite a few gems. GET DOME! Oct 13, 2008

As of 1-4-08 there is a fixed #0.5 Camalot on the second pitch...an ice storm was moving in and my partner was unable to get it out in time, so we bailed. Jan 11, 2008

Near the top, don't use the sloping block on the left - stick to the dihedral on the right - keeps the level more consistent. Nov 3, 2005

Meant to get on Cozy Overhang. Oops! Gear beta... A very long reach at the crux move will give you a perfect green (#0.75) Camalot protecting the move through the roof. Aug 27, 2008

I worked this route years ago when it was extremely dirty. I cleaned it quite a bit before really working the moves. Now it is an amazing variation to East of the Sun, etc. Great holds for traversing left on the overhanging roof and there is also a cool variation if you traverse left before the roof and gain a thin crack on the face. Jun 17, 2011

The "sign of life" I encountered was a territorial wasp who lives in a finger lock crack (yellow Metolius) at the lip. There's enough room for the cam, and two fingers underneath, but not for all that and the wasp. Got a nasty sting hanging out at the lip. Maybe do this route in cold weather when the little bastard is napping. Sep 14, 2006

Nice climb with a fun stemming overhange with big square crystal jugs. This combined with the East of the Sun slab would be the logical line, but since we'd just done East of the Sun, we finished with the crack right of East Slab. Apr 2, 2006

Thumbs up to anyone who would solo this. As for the line being short, it seems to climb a full pitch of independent territory, which is more than I can say for most "variation" routes. As previously stated, since it has obviously been done- historically, I was surprised it was not documented. Apr 21, 2003

This route has been done before, mainly soloed, it probably was not listed anywhere due to it being short and that it would end up exiting an already existing line. Mar 18, 2003

No love for this thing, huh? I thought it was a blast. Don't wear a helmet. Trail gear. Get stuck. Get unstuck. Try again. Get stuck again. Go around. Get back in. Pretty awesome #6 placement. The poop and risk of decapitation are worth the misery (if you're into that). Aug 22, 2013

Did this last night and it is still owned by the Pigeon King. I felt that this route was definatly harder then any other 10 I have climbed anywhere. This come mostly due to the Bird crap that greeses every hold through the crux. This climb was the closest my head will ever get to being in the rectum of a bird. Great movement but route gets 3 demerit points for it's condition Jun 18, 2009

The climb is pretty unique and interesting, but the difficulty is definitely body-size dependent. I'm a relatively small person, but after climbing this, I have raked areas on my back and chest at the shoulder blades/pecs, and then a big raked area at the top of my big butt. I am 5'10 and only weigh 165. Larger climbers beware. To get my chest through I had to exhale and wiggle, to get my butt through I had to dangle my legs and relax, then swing my feet back and forth like a pendulum to wiggle through. For gear, you should rack it all to the sides, not a single biner behind you on the gear loops. Take stoppers + thin-hands sized gear (1.5-2" cams) and one good-hands or wide-hands piece and you can protect it very well. Presently, one pigeon has made this home. I literally scooped a few piles of dry poop out of the left hand holds prior to the crux. One star, normally, but maybe one less than that to account for the pigeon poop. Even the belay is tar-and-feathered with pigeon crap and feathers presently. 5.10d, but more for the will required than the skill required. Large people will find it harder, exceptionally small people will find it easier, both due to the hand jams available (tight green to purple Camalot) and the lesser struggle squeezing through the slot. Jul 30, 2003

Excellent pigeon shit jams at the crux. Way more fun than it looks. May 7, 2013

I had a time on this one too at 5ft 9in, 170 lbs. I first got my head through the slot, and then almost got my head/helmet stuck (see above post - don't wear a helmet). With difficulty, I managed to get my chest about halfway up the slot, and then desperately attempted to exhale all the way and press my way through, breaking a rib in the process. Once my chest was through, it was a breeze. Although I enjoy wide cracks, I can't say that I feel any desire to repeat this climb unless I get tapeworms and drop 20 lbs. Jul 2, 2012

Allen, It was not a joke. I saw the bald spot! Bryan, Your beta is brilliant. I've been tying into my swami belt with the knot on the right hip and tying in on the left hip, and I never even thought to switch them. Apr 28, 2011

Hey Kurt, psyched you did it! After swearing off slabs in '92, this was on my short list of steep climbs to do. It was part of a process of redemption after years in the SP doing slabs. What a great route! Beta: Swami belt with the knot placed on the left hip, tie in on the right. Apr 27, 2011

God I hope the last post was a joke. Mar 10, 2011

I followed this route today. I fell during the business, and got my helmet stuck so that I was hanging with all my weight on my neck on the helmet strap. Scared shitless, I ripped my helmet off without unbuckling it, and in the process, ripped TWO of my dreads off. I had never been so horrified while following a route. Mar 9, 2011

Made me feel like a piece of protection. Sep 24, 2008

Ron Olsen and I replaced the 1/4" bolt at the belay. Unfortunately, not only was the existing bolt a mere 1" deep in the rock, it was also in a hollow flake. We searched high and low for a spot to place the new bolt that was good rock and finally decided up and left. The new bolt is a 3/8" SS Rawl five-piece bolt. The hardware for this project was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support. Oct 13, 2005

The old 1/4 inch bolt was being backed up by a nut and a huge somewhat loose chockstone, and about 15 different slings, so I cut most of the crappy webbing off and unslung the chock stone and [equalized] a [BD] 13 nut and the 1/4 incher with a [piece] of 8 mm cord that is [in ok] condition it is [fairly] bomber now. I was surprised that anyone let it get in such bad condition, it was one of the biggest messes that I have seen, so if you get up there and [don't] like what I did, take out the old stuff before you add in your bit, 1 [cordalette] should be [sufficient], and if you [don't] get too sketched out [just] use the bolt, it is solid. Jul 31, 2005

The old Erickson guide book contained numerous bon mots and pearlsof wisdom. He hit the nail on the head when he wrote of Supersqueeze (I quote from memory): "a 10 foot stretch of climbing which requires every textbook technique". Jun 21, 2003

Attempt #5 with Matt. Silly me. I have been training for OW. This isn't an OW. It is a bouldering route where you float around the edge like a butterfly. Next attempt I'm going to bring a crash pad. Matt needs to pick better friends. Sep 10, 2017

I came out of this lead a new person but not a better one. You can walk a #6 ahead of you to keep you psychologically protected as the crack tries to spit you out into space. Jul 23, 2017

This may just be the best ~2 body lengths of climbing in Boulder. Wide crack novelty that is not to be missed. There various solutions to this one including, but not limited to, arete humping or cartwheels. From what I have seen and experienced, it seems like 2 outcomes are possible - hiking it or utter failure but not a whole lot in between. Fun for all body types, but some will have more "fun" than others. Jan 21, 2017

This climb is great...for ladies under a B cup with a Beyonce ass. Spent a majority of my time groveling and cursing at my climbing partner while trying not to breathe too much for fear that my boobs would trap me to the point of him tying me off and going home. Would do it again. Jan 21, 2017

Climbed it in 1968. I remember praying hard and crying at the top. Sep 22, 2016

I was pretty happy to have a #5. Apr 11, 2016

Here we go again. Matt and I, once again, hanging out at the Umph. We are in fact starting to believe we are too, ahem, 'thick'. Pushes us way outside too early. This time I was able to climb the top 2/3 clean. That bottom section is brutal. I'm going to talk to my doctor about having a few ribs removed. Also, next time I climb this thing I'm going to tape a $100 bill in the back of the crack as a prize to whoever gets there first. Mar 6, 2016

Climbed it again today. I think I may actually be getting worse at climbing. This climb is some kind of terrible misery that can only be appreciated when looking down at your partner and laughing like some kind of crazy person. I was on Crack of Fear two weeks ago and found it to be 'easier' than this. Oct 1, 2015

I feel the need to provide my witness (Hallelujah). I'm 5'8" and 180 and couldn't get anywhere but on the outside of this thing. Feels like 5.15 to me. I'm going to go home to regroup. Ray P.S. Sure were a lot of cobwebs on it. Does anyone actually climb this thing anymore? Sep 7, 2015

Wow. Short approach, good scenery, easy communication, engaging climbing, and "exciting" nipple and crotch stimulation make this one the better, in my opinion, "date climbs" in the Boulder region. Definitely a pitch worth considering when trying to find that perfect route to show someone new to the sport what climbing is all about and to learn the origin of the saying "if your chest isn't bleeding, you're not trying!" Feb 20, 2014

I don't know what 11a offwidth feels like, but I know what 10+ offwidth feels like and this was hard. I am of normal size. Sep 8, 2013

I wore holes through my skin at my chest and elbow, through my long sleeved shirt (the shirt did not rip). Just the friction of the shirt on my skin! Of course I didn't feel anything until I topped out. I thought that if I ever did this thing again, I'd stick a large square of moleskin on the two spots, but this is probably aid.... May 15, 2013

This route actually 5.8 if you find the hidden jug at the top and have a good updraft. The moves are much easier if you have a large torso and a huge ass.... Classic. Good training for The Crack of Fear... which may be 5.8 too. May 7, 2013

If you still have both of your nipples, you didn't try hard enough.... :) Jun 22, 2011

The slot is really hard. Harder than any 5.10 I have ever done. And I've done my share of bombay chimney slots rated harder. Maybe I was doing it wrong.... Jun 22, 2011

I onsight free soloed this back in '77 or so, when I was a skinny kid from Laramie, total tunneler. Not barefoot but in EBs. Now, 15 lbs heavier and 34 yrs, more mature, I suspect it would the fringes for me! Apr 16, 2011

Nothin' like doing the chicken wing thing and then putting a major stress on your funny bone. I was not laughing though at this "5.8" that my partner drug me up. For me, it was probably 5.9 A1 (seconding, I grabbed the rope). Feb 27, 2008

Stuggle violently up the overhanging slot. Umph - 5.8 my @$$. Oct 31, 2007

After having butterflies in my stomach all day, I went for it. Climb this baby left side in, as if it wasn't already obvious enough. For the first 8', you can climb and place gear in the hand crack inside. I placed a red and gold Camalot to start. Once you start moving up you are forced outside by the laws of physics. Don't let that scare you, bust into a "chicken wing" it's the only way. You can also heel toe with your right foot. Place a number 6 and inch your way to the top. (on-sight Baby!) May 12, 2007

I'm not a big dude--5'9", 145 lbs., and I had to climb out of the crack, chicken-winging hard with my left arm, kind of gastonneing/smearing with my right hand. Hard to believe that 15-20' of climbing gets you so thoroughly pumped! My pushing muscles--triceps/pecs (and my adductors, with regards to Mrs. Bubb!)--are aching today with nary a pain in my pulling muscles. Re: gear, we used 2 #2 Camalots low in the crack, one about 1' above the other, and a #6 Friend, pretty tipped out, 1' above that. If you aid this thing, take several #5 Camalots or #6 Friends, but for free climbing, I would say just place a #2 Camalot as high as you can and then punch it. David Goldstein is right: this thing is definitely harder than the squeeze section of the Harding Slot. Nov 20, 2006

This climb is unratable. Stuff yourself in it and call it whatever you want. I'm about 190 and getting inside the crack isn't even an option. My chest won't fit in, but I can get some good chicken wings and work the lip gaston style with my right hand. I use a #3, #2, #5, #4.5 Camalots, with some extra #1s or #2s for the anchor. Placing a #3 low on the pitch keeps the rope out of your way if you fall out. Jul 1, 2005

This has got to be one of the nicest offwidths in Boulder (although granted, there aren't that many). I found it to be very sustained throughout the overhanging section, with very insecure arm barring and toe heel moves, until a killer chicken wing about 10 feet out can be obtained. I used a #5 Camalot and moved it along, until leaving it behind near where you can get up on the less steep upper face. I'd call this test piece 5.10d and felt it had moves as hard as the crux on Crack of Fear. Great route! Oct 25, 2003

Hard to give this nasty 10' stretch of climbing a difficulty or a quality rating. For one thing, it's completely size dependent. As someone who is pretty narrow front to back, I could just barely fit inside -- removing my gear sling made the difference between success and failure. As a squeeze chimney, the way I climbed it, it was considerably harder than the notorious squeeze chimney section of the Harding Slot; this would make Umph Slot at least 5.10. As an offwidth, the way someone wider would have to climb it, it's probably that much harder. Note that most of the way there is good hand size gear (and handjams) in the back, if you can reach. Do this back to back w/ Supersqueeze for the full on abuse program -- 20' feet of climbing that will feel like that many pitches. Jun 21, 2003

I saw Dave Miller "wine master to the stars" free solo this without chalk or shoes-no lie!!! Oct 16, 2002

The way I have done it (twice) was one side in and one side out. Then you can pinch the rock bewteen your thighs for friction (we called the right side of the crack "Mrs Bubb" as a joke) while thrutching up the with arm-bars and poor jams. Be warned, if you slip in this position, you may damage "the goods. I'm a fairly small guy (5'10" 165lbs) but have VERY long arms, and I'm pretty flexible. So, I fit further in than most people and could reach further back than most who can fit in. I found the climb to tick in at about 5.10+/11-. Very body-size dependent. Smaller people have an advantage, but so do apes with VERY long arms and big paws. Oct 14, 2002

Mark must be a Hobbit or a Dwarf to get inside this route. Climbed on the outside this route is well into the 5.11 range. I recommend two #5 Camalots and a #3 Big Bro if aiding this baby (the only way I could get up it). Nothing else really fits because you can't reach in far enough to place a #4 Camalot. You do place some smaller gear at the start, but be careful you don't place it too deep and you'll need to go find Mark to retrieve it. Oct 14, 2002

Don't even have an illusion that this route is anywhere near 5.8+, unless your 4'2" and have no shoulders. You can also start this by going up The Owl and continuing left where you would go right to the bottom of Supersqueeze-5.6. Oct 14, 2002

The 150ft length is a Very Rough estimate. If you try to do it in one pitch and come up short......you have been warned. Oct 13, 2002

ABD has been repeated and is suggested to be V12. Nov 30, 2009

Super fun, I thought more like V6 (from the mid-way sit)... but mos-def my style to the T. Also, seems to make a huge grade difference if you actually pull of the ground/sit start it. May 22, 2011

FA was, as it turns out, by Ian Powell, who told me about this line years ago, saying he was sure a lower start could be done. Looking for this, I found what was to become the Hug. Nov 28, 2010

WARNING!!! Beware of the nut on the fourth bolt. It has a way of unscrewing itself. Sep 16, 2012

And for all you boulderer-types who hate to get pumped, there is a fine link-up — Finally Eagle (13a) — that engages the first three bolts on Bald Eagle, and then heads right into the 5.11d Golden Eagle. Oct 17, 2010

This is an awesome line, and a great addition to Eagle Rock. The first half is really fun, and the upper headwall is classic. I didn't see a piton at the start, so I used the first 2 bolts above the belay for 'Eagle Hardware', then moved right for 7 bolts on 'Barely Eagle' (9 bolts total, long sling on bolt 2). The bolts are snug and solid right now, and the rock has cleaned up very nicely. Thanks for another fantastic Front Range Sport route from Team Shred! Aug 24, 2014

It doesn't seem like this has seen much traffic yet. It's still pretty licheny, which makes a lot of the fingertip liebacking feel really desperate... a wire brush may be in order. I really don't think this is going to see any downgrading if that's to what the "Boulder 12d" is a reference. Seems pretty stiff to me. Oct 24, 2011

Ah, loose bolts: most unbizzled. If anyone goes up, take a 17mm wrench, or barring that an adjustable crescent. These are the Fixe wedge bolts with the big nuts on them. Thanks, Alex! Aug 31, 2011

Sustained "Boulder 12d" fo shizzle, my bizzle! So you mean the left toothy crimp, which would be a sweet thumb catch in its own right, used to have a thumb catch? That's some hard bizzling! Cool leg-flagging, seam-laybacking off balancedness to the top. My main reason to comment, is to give heads up to the next person who gets on this to bring a wrench to tighten bolts #2 & 4.... They seriously unbizzled! Aug 31, 2011

The two loose blocks were removed, and she's all brushed up purdy and gussied up real nice: good to go for mass consumption. Also, the thumb catch on the left crimp at the crux crumbled, so you'll have to try a little harder. Oct 14, 2010

Love the name! Oct 7, 2010

I think it is 12a up to the jug then 12b after that, because I was able to do it. Also, best climb I've done in the canyon. I was able to jam my Buddha Belly into the seam though, and catch a no hands rest.... Aug 25, 2016

Wow, just wow. What a route. Being 5'4" was challenging, especially the move to the mini-jug. That was the crux of the whole route for me. Originally in my sequence I planned to skip the bolt through the hard lieback section, but on redpoint today, I ended up clipping it from a left hand jam. Wait for cool temps, because this morning in October was perfect, tacky, and delightful. Lucky me too, I had Mark Rolofson, the visionary behind the route, belay me. Oct 9, 2015

Hi Mark, It certainly felt hard BITD, but it's also a style I really don't do well at. So while I flashed Flying Beast for example, a bouldery short route on fairly defined holds, Buddha Belly took quite a bit longer because of its sloping abstract features. Aug 21, 2015

Thanks for your analysis, Train 4 Life. If my memory serves me correctly, Peter Beal made the second ascent in Summer 2000 & told me that he thought it was solid 5.13b. Obviously he changed his opinion, which is valid. What makes it valid or not is why. I don't know the answer. Did he return & repeat the route & decide it wasn't that hard? Or did he just decide to agree with others that were calling it .13a? In any case, it's a great climb that delivers a great pump without hurting your fingers. May 22, 2015

And I did all the moves on the climb...so I'd like to break it down the way I thought it went and I'd love to hear your opinions and thoughts. First moves to the break where the right hand jug is...(5.12c). Moves into the technical slots combined with the 12c before it (5.13a). Then the finishing move with after the stem rest...I basically smeared a foot on a small chip and stood up and went into a layback with the right hand and desperately got a right hand up right by the left to grab a very small, mono divot and pulled off that. Then I fought my feet up and kept trying to build up on the layback until I could make a big move to the jugs up top (13b/c with the rest added on). Tell me what you all think! Aug 25, 2014

Just a question, because I am not nearly to the status of most of the climbers that have commented on here, but I have done Nevermore and Tiger's Woody and been on Black and Tan and Double Stout, Interstellar Overdrive, Third Millenium, Choose Life, and Thunder Muscle...you get the picture. I feel that this route is much much harder than Tiger's and Nevermore (Both 13a's). Am I crazy or did I just really really mess up the beta at the top of this route? Aug 25, 2014

Thanks, Mark! I am going to go with Monsieur Pinklebear on this one. Hard for the grade but not 13b. Dec 13, 2012

Here's the FA & FFA info on this fine route. I bolted the route & then made several one hang ascents in October 1998. I returned to the route on two warm days in December 1998 with visiting German climber Jorg Strassner. With draws on the route and my beta, Jorg redpointed the route on December 4, 1998. Two days later it snowed. I finally returned & redpointed the route in September 2001. I think the route is harder than 5.13a & rated it 5.13b in my last guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume I". "Buddha Belly" is harder than any other .13a in Boulder Canyon. Compare it to "Sinopia", "Nevermore", "Flying Beast", "Green Panther", "Give The Dog A Bone", or "Vasodilator". The route is quite sustained, especially the top half up - the powerful, sequential lieback. There are three section of .12a/b up to the .12c/d crux at the 8th bolt. After making it through the crux, I found it hard to shake out at 9th bolt but managed to after finding the right position to straight arm off the seam. The lieback finish is .12a/b. Dec 11, 2012

Such a cool route. I've had a love/hate thing with it for a while. If you put your hands just where they need to be in those flared, slanting cracks, you'll love it (you also need to bring your feet up in a specific way). If you put them in the wrong spots, you'll hate it. The thing is, it takes awhile to find the right spots. (Read: stout for 13a....) Sep 30, 2010

Eagle Rock, a really good place as there is, a 10a, 10b 10c, 11a.....leading right up to it for warmups. Better be good at vert up high. It is a great route complete with funkyness and all! Also try Vasodialator and Nevermore (yeesh!) in the canyon. Nov 22, 2008

5.13a -no b about it. Aug 21, 2002

Orginally the crux was a bit harder, with poor holds on the sloping shelf around the 9th bolt. When I climbed this route in 2007, someone must have pulled out a small piece of quartz, leaving a nice incut. This made a move easier. Still the route felt about .12a. Dec 11, 2012

I thought this route seemed soft at 12a, and I am not usually one to downgrade. However, the climbing is surprisingly good. I had been up to Eagle Rock a long time ago and thought everything looked like choss, but I made a mistake. Recently, having limited options for shade and time, I headed up. I did a couple of 5.10s, this route, and an 11b/c. Overall, I was quite impressed with all the routes and many deserve more stars than the actual guidebook gives them. Worth a visit for sure. Great crag if your climbing in the 11 range given that is what most of the routes are.... Sep 4, 2012

Here's an idea: bring 8 quickdraws instead of 14. Good climb on fine stone. Sep 9, 2015

Pat Thompson is responsible for bolting & cleaning this route. I was just the first person to freeclimb it. I bolted most of the other climbs at Eagle Rock. Yes, it could have been done with less bolts, but so what? I have climbed it many times to warm up for harder routes, and it's a great climb. If you don't like it, then don't clip all the bolts or go to another crag & leave this wall for those of us who like it. I have met many people who have climbed this route and loved all the bolts. What really find trully amazing is all the comments from Anonymous Cowards! You guys are really chickenshits for not having the balls to post your real names. Nov 14, 2012

A 5.11d for the first lead ever? I think that pretty much shows what the over-bolting issue does to this climb. I'm sure the moves are still hard, over my head, but don't listen to me, I'm one of those old ethic farts that used to try and push using fine clay instead of chalk in your chalk bag (never did like that climb by following the dots thing). Sep 18, 2007

The bolting worked just fine for my wife Cath for whom this was the first ever lead, indoor or outdoor. Sep 18, 2007

Everyone will not agree. Pipe up about what bolts you think are not needed, eventually someone with a wrench will fix the route, or not. If I could climb more than 5.5- I would do it myself :-o Oct 25, 2005

Uh ... yeah. Have you seen what happens to people on this site and in the community when someone removes a bolt? Retro-bolts? Changes fixed gear in any way, any where, under any circumstances? If you haven't, one word: pirahnas. It's probably easy for many to agree that Rolofson/whomever over bolted the hell out of many routes, the Eagle's (otherwise fun) routes included, but try to get consensus to change it... fuggedaboutit. Oct 25, 2005

Why don't you post which bolts could or should be safely or easily skipped. Then perhaps we could eventually agree on which bolts should eventually be removed? If fixed pro is unecessary, clean it. Just stating that it is overbolted does not bring us forward. Oct 25, 2005

Absolutely no joke the bolt ladder on the Grand Wall has more generous spacing on it that this route. Someone could have bolted this route on lead from aiders, never venturing into their top step and still would have placed the bolts further apart. Oct 25, 2005

A fun route but hysterically over bolted. Oct 24, 2005

Could have been a good route, if it weren't so grossly over-bolted. Good job on ruining another nice piece of stone. Oct 24, 2005

I found this to be not as good as others have said. Mediocre (but solid) rock at the bottom, not particularly interesting moves. Just a pump. The bolts at the bottom are absurd, beginning with 2 belay (or bivvy?) bolts with another belay bolt just to the left. Then several bolts about 4 feet apart on easy ground. Perhaps some of these were added by another party. One bolt in the first 15 feet would be plenty. Once it gets hard, the bolts are still pretty close, but at least they make sense thre. I clipped them all, being really pumped, as this was the last climb of the afternoon. Oct 17, 2003

The insane redpoint crux: not Z-clipping. Oct 8, 2003

I was hoping someone could also bolt the approach slab to this climb, because I felt it was fairly run-out compared to the route. Thank God there was a rap anchor at the base of the route or I would have made it safely to the ground. Also, I appreciated the fact that my mid-section was just as well-protected throughout this route as my feet and chest were as I strained for the next bolt. Good job protecting this route!!! Sep 4, 2003

Before setting off on the Great Dihedral, we climbed this very fun route for some friends who were with us. The route to the left has anchors no more than three feet from the anchors here, so we toproped it. This collection of sport climbs on Eagle rock is quite entertaining and much cleaner than the more famous dihedral. Aug 29, 2004

The Rossiter Boulder Canyon guide shows a multipitch 10c trad route, Screaming War Eagle, starting in the same area as Eagle Snacks. The topo isn't very clear as to the start, but the description says, "The route begins near a small pine." Perhaps Eagle Snacks is a retrobolting of the first pitch of Screaming War Eagle. Rossiter calls that first pitch 10a, which may be possible, if you choose the easiest line. Oct 17, 2003

Can someone please help me with beta for the top crux. Do you dyno? use the left arete? Is there some key hidden foot I'm missing? I can climb it to Left hand on the glued chip. Right hand on the high notch. I just can't make it that last foot to the jugs. Any info would be a huge help. Thanks Scott Sep 10, 2006

Chipping! Enhancing! Modify? LAME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Jun 5, 2005

FYI - Ted Lanzano and I had 12 draws stolen off of Eagle Warrior sometime between Saturday and Monday this week. Went up this morning, draws were gone and we found several cigarette butts at the base of the route. Oct 19, 2004

I haven't done this route (or even tried it), but the glued on hold is hilarious. [It's] like if you're going to glue on holds you might as well go all out. I mean who would want to go to all that trouble and still not be able to do the route. Let's see, I don't really want the crux to be there so let me make a few minor, oh hell, major adjustments.... Oct 23, 2003

Ditto Jim Sep 25, 2002

5.13b- not close to c. How about no chipping EVER. PERIOD. End of story. Aug 21, 2002

Perhaps a solution to the chipping/drilling debate is the following. One that adopts both Peter's stance of revealing the nature of the route modification without excessive policing and the general demand to put the route on a black list would be to simply place a notation line in the entry for each route. The notation line could indicate that the line was or was not natural, and if it was not natural it could indicate the nature of the enhancement. The route description could remain in place, and we would learn as much about the route as we would about any other. If it was useful, a compilation of chipped and drilled routes could be maintained under separate format. I for one do not want to loose Peter's contribution to CB.com and his insight into our more difficult lines. Nov 7, 2001

This is an example of a modified climb, however minimally,and I would not object, as I have made it clear by describing the nature of the modifications, that people see it as such. Nov 7, 2001

The enhanced hold is about an 1/8" deep and maybe two inches long. It's not very big and you throw about 2 feet for a ledge off it. Try it out! Aug 14, 2001

Hmmm... creative use of the word "enhanced." I'd be curious as to the size and nature of this 'enhancement,' and even better a photo of the actual hold. Aug 10, 2001

This is a really great route. I think the rating is right on at 11d, even considering Boulder Canyon ratings. Other people who think it's loads easier, you must be wicked strong and more power to ya. Nov 11, 2009

Really fun route. Ridiculously over bolted. You never climb more than 1 foot above a bolt on this route, and can clip over your head with a bolt at your waist. And that's *Boulder Canyon* 11b. As in 5.10 in Eldo. The moves really are fun though. Oct 22, 2005

There is a dorm-fridge size semi-detached block just below the anchors, and in fact the most natural hold to use to clip the anchors is the jug formed by the top of this block. If you are climbing this route, especially after rain, please exercise caution. The reason I believe the block to be suspect is that I was up there on a wet day (and in fact broke a mango-size hold off lower on the route both to my and my belayer's surprise), and noticed that water seeps behind the entire block and comes out a mossy crack on the underside. On that wet day, tapping also created bad bad bad vibrations. If there is agreement that the block is dangerous, perhaps it could be trundled (this would have to be done very cautiously, because it's likely to cause a rockslide). In the meantime, note that it is not really necessary to even touch this block when climbing this route. Just to the left is an equally big feature that is sound; you can easily crank on top of this and clip the anchors from the stance on top. Great moves on this route. I'd rate it 5.11, 2 stars. Oct 19, 2004

Jim, if you had a bigger gut it would feel like .11d. Sep 16, 2002

11b Sep 16, 2002

I've done this route twice, or something very close to it, but both ascents were "way back when...." This is best done in the Fall when the water leveland creek crossing doesn't factor into the approach, or the effort isn't worthwhile. I didn't find this to be any harder than 5.4-5.5 at the time, but that's an "Old School" rating, too. May 16, 2013

Midway through pitch one, I came upon a fresh, hot, steamer the size and weight of a Texas cow turd. It is unknown whether this be the handiwork of herbivore or carnivore, but it was clearly not avian. It seems that avoiding these deposits of schitt makes one gravitate to the sparsely protected face to the left of the dihedral. Though runout, it is at least cleaner. Aug 29, 2004

I agree with both previous entries: the climb is more 5.6, there is an abundance of (mostly avoidable) poop, and should possibly receive an 's' rating, due to the first pitch. It's a really fun time, though, and the ledge at the top of the first pitch is very spacious and cool. Eagle Rock does require a creek crossing, so keep that in mind, as it could affect your 'car-to-car' during the spring months. Mar 1, 2004

Great route to escape the crowds...Cool dihedral minus the bat shit and wood rat piss. I haven't found another dihedral at the grade to stand up to the quality of the Zanzibar Dihedral on Independence Pass. Anyone have any suggestions? Nov 24, 2002

Great climb. First pitch is an ugly traverse. ZigZag from right to left until you get to a 2 bolt anchor on the face. Then go straight up the face next to the dihedral (5.7) up to a huge ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. Really fun pitch. Pitch 3 go's straight up on huge buckets, and then finally getting into the dihedral crack for the final 20' to a 2 bolt anchor. Rappel down or walk off the back. Small rack. Friends around #1-4, nuts from #5-10, 6 quick draws, and 3 slings. Have fun! Nov 11, 2001

A great route and definitely not as hard as "Buddha Belly", but I have to say I find it very much .13a. Quite sustained with the crux past the 4th & 5th bolts. Dec 11, 2012

I would say this is bouldery route is harder than 12c. I didn't redpoint the route, so I can't be certain of the grade yet, but my impression from 2 tries is that its harder than Flying Beast, another bouldery BoCan route. Speaking of glued holds, the glued horn just over the lip of the overhang is not long for this world. When that goes, this route will almost certainly be at least 13a. Jul 19, 2005

Great route -- maybe a bit soft even by Boulder Canyon standards; has a harder single move than its neighboring route (Buddha Belly), but not nearly as sustained. Sep 24, 2004

Great route. Too bad it's so short. Has a bomber knee bar no hand rest between 2nd and 3rd bolt. Very soft for the grade (I don't think it's any harder than 12c) Sep 19, 2004

Sorry if I sounded offended, but I was just explaining my rationale for grading. I suppose sometimes I can sound too serious when posting on this site. I'm psyched you like the route. BTW, I read a comment about gluing on another route where the hold fell off. Green Panther had a toaster/TV-sized block "glued" in place which took me 2 minutes with a nut tool to detach. Pretty scary stuff. It made quite an impact lower down on the access ramp. May 5, 2004

Peter- Sorry if I offended you. I was attempting to take the piss out of all of us including myself. Ratings are a fickle game, even with consensus, we really only have our own fleeting experience of a route to judge it by. GP is an engaging and challenging route. It is also height-dependent, being easier for us lanky folks and more challenging for shorter ones. I defintely plan to go back for the RP when Eagle opens again ( and I get in shape!). David May 5, 2004

(pasted in from a comment by Dave Rivers) While we're pissin', I'd like to piss in the living room. Hank, I have your new 13a for you. It's Green Panther on Eagle Rock (equipped Rolofson, FFA Beal). IMO this route is soft. I worked it sporadically in the Fall of 2000 with some friends. My hardest redpoint at the time was Piles of Trials which I did that Fall. I had 3-4 one fall or hang attempts before school and a new career pulled me away from chasing the grades. I felt it might be 12c/d for me. I'm 6'2" with a positive ape index so that the "crux" throw was a subtle hip kip and deadpoint for me whereas my shorter but stronger friends had to full-on dyno. They redpointed the climb and also felt it soft for 13a ( and they tend to downgrade less than I). (end of paste) My rating for this route is based solely on the fact that it took a few tries over two days, which is about average for me on most easy to mid-13 routes. If it feels soft for the grade, so be it. There are plenty of other options for harder climbing in Boulder Canyon. May 5, 2004

Mark equiped this route and did it with hangs in '98, so it's quite possible that Mark or somebody else freed it before me. Many thanks to Mark for this and all his many great routes. Stoner seemed a touch harder than Green Panther, so I would guess it's a solid 13a. It's a sustained and clean route with an inobvious sequence, but some of the jams are quite painful. I only taped for my last attempts, including the redpoint, and have a number of ugly scrapes and a numb finger-tip as a result. Tape your fingers right away and good luck. Sep 1, 2004

Merlin is spot on about traversing right to the tree before you start climbing up the buttress. The climb is very much like Pine Tree Route lower down in the canyon - relatively easy and low angle with OK to decent pro. I didn't think it was that bad. Not to be missed is the final, steep handcrack that's short (sadly) and protects with a #3 Camalot. May 26, 2009

I'm not sure is this is standard or not, but I posted this route to let people know to skip it. The climbing was dull, unaesthetic, and quite dirty. We found a bouldering move on the route to add to the spice up top (v1 or v2?), but other than that, this route is pretty boring. If you are a new leader, make sure to take the traverse under the roofs towards the obvious tree before heading up. It might be a good first lead, and the views up top are nice, but otherwise steer clear. Oct 1, 2006

FA - August, 1995. Jul 31, 2008

Easy, guys! Let's leave a little crux beta to the imagination! Aug 30, 2002

Unlike the previous reader, I did not execute as a slow reach. Beta was the same until I stuck the left foot in the slot. I then slapped high left to the first bomber sloper, moved my left foot up to the next pimpy edge, slapped the arete higher and then chucked high for the right handed, sloper gaston.... One more heave and the "jug" was then attained. Super cool! Aug 18, 2002

The moves up to the crux on this route are a great warm-up. HUGE holds up a great dihedral with some mellow stemming. The crux is way harder than the rest of the route. You will get to a small sidepull edge for your hand on the other side of the arret, and you will stuff your left foot into a slot. Drop your left knee and torque your foot hard. It will strongly seat your left foot and bring your left hip up and in so you can make a slow reach for an edge on a small, sloping shelf. A cool bouldering problem on a fun route. Loved it! Jul 3, 2002

This indeed is a fantastic 5.10 warm-up right until you reach the Butt Smackin' Good Crux with Bran and wish you wore your Oops I Crapped My Pants diaper under your Prana climbing pants. Jun 24, 2002

How do you think we get the ropes up there, anyway? Jun 19, 2001

This route is a terrible warmup. It took me longer to do this than the "5.13s" here. Jan 1, 2001

For a more difficult time, avoid all holds in the corner to the right, including the obvious resting hold before the mantel. Definitely 13a and a sure sign of too much time climbing at Easter Aug 5, 2001

I gave this route one star in a 5 star system in "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume II". I have been up the route, but I have not redpointed it. I have no intention of ever going back. This route is a good way to strain or injure your left shoulder on the crux. The crux is brief, then a few 5.11 jug moves finish. There is no anchor, unless you traverse right to Trustafarian Panhandler. Then someone must second it. Otherwise, you must downaid the roof, & thread your rope through two of the bolts that have coldshut hangers to descend. The route belays on the trail. Thrash through vegetation to get to the rock. Take caution getting to the 1st bolt, there is a loose block. The best climbing is in the middle of the pitch below the roof. The climbing is 5.9 & easier, even though one move may be harder. The rock is good, & there are some interesting, fun moves in this section of the route. The route name is far better than the route. Jul 23, 2017

The tradition of first ascentionists naming their routes with innuendo or crass language goes back a long way. The Vulgarians in the Gunks, Chuck Pratt, Yvon Chouinard, the Stonemasters, even John Muir (!) and others are great examples of the long standing tradition of counterculteralism in climbing in America. This phenomenon isn't limited to Boulder Canyon. Hate to break it to you, AC, but this is the way it is. Maybe you can convince a group of Mormon Fundamentalists to make a PG rated playpen out your slice of reality, but as long as badasses keep coming up with badass names for badass routes... you're only trying to bail water out of an already sunken ship. We like it that way. Jun 18, 2017

Love those "chickenshit armchairs". May 22, 2012

LMAO. Only in Boulder. Sep 7, 2007

What an awesome route name. And perfect for Boulder! IMHO. Jul 27, 2007

The name of this route is too long and does't really flow, because of this the whole point of this argument is moot. The more likely course of events that will be pursued is that it will just be called "chickenshit", "armchair enviromentalists", or "Chickenshit Enviromentalists". Oct 20, 2003

One star. Jun 22, 2003

Hey, what is with the add a bolt program. Two belay stations, come on. The route name is good for the texture of the rock and the way Boulder rocks do not clean well. My friends drink coffee there too, but I have no problem with the name at all. Tried the route and about tore my shoulder off. Sep 29, 2002

There is not even one single comment about "Muff Diver" at Castlewood, what gives? Aug 29, 2002

I didn't say offensive, I said lame, stupid, wordy, and unfunny. This isn't a free speech issue, it's a non-stupid speech issue. Aug 28, 2002

I am reminded by this discussion of the bruhaha that surrounded route names at The City of Rocks. So "offensive" were they that the self-righteous mothers in Boise tried (in vain) to shut down climbing at the City. Funny. Once the furor had dissipated, all that remained were good routes with their original names including Carol's Crack, Nipples and Clits, Crotchbound, Psycho Ranger and on and on. Times change, but the tune remains the same. Perhaps the self-righteous moaners might instead inquire of Tod what transpired to elicit this barb. Aug 27, 2002

We can't call every route the Naked Edge but we can try a little harder to make route names less lame. I don't know if it's the rant-factor or the wordiness or the lack of humor or all three but this name blows Hypothetical Conversation: Adoring Dad: So junior, what route did you do today?Junior: Well Dad I sent "Chickenshit Armchair Environmentalist" at Easter Rock! AD: Great send! or " Dude, I'm going to hang my draws on Chickenshit Armchair Environmentalist." C'mon Tod, you know it's the right thing to do. Change the name or some CAE might get out of the armchair and take your route to junk hardware heaven. Aug 27, 2002

Just for the record, although Tod gave me FA credit, I had nothing to do with naming or drilling this route (or "Smack That Bitch Up", for that matter). I am environmentally friendly, and I have never smacked any bitches up. However, since Tod bought the bolts, and spotted the line, and did the drilling, and sent the route, I think he can name it whatever he wants to name it. I don't see why this name is any worse or better than "Skull Fuck" or "Magical Chrome Plated Semi-automatic Enema". We can't call every route "The Naked Edge". Seriously, if you don't like the name, go put up your own routes, and name them anything you like. Aug 27, 2002

I didn't realize women ever looked at this site, let alone contributed. Spraying about routes, spraying about mighty first ascents, making bold political statements such as oh-so rugged individualists like Mr. Anderson make with their trivial route names, and limp ego-stroking all seem to be the sordid and exclusive domain of men. Or should I say, boys. Aug 27, 2002

What about routes like "Smack That Bitch Up" in Clear Creek? That should help with land manangers, and with attracting more women to the sport (and this site). Aug 26, 2002

I doubt route names like this are going to help with land managers. Aug 26, 2002

Reaction.... good, it means people are thinking. The whole point of a couple of these route names is to take a shot at Boulder, and the sometimes pretentious hypocritical inhabitants. I doubt that will change in 20 years. It seems to me that there are plenty of the route's namesakes sitting in their coffee houses in Boulder drinking coffee grown in denuded rainforests, warmed with power generated by fossil fuels, bemoaning the horrible impacts that thrill-seeking climbers cause who want to close every crag around Boulder. Hopefully the miscellaneous open space departments won't get a hold of any more climbing areas. Aug 26, 2002

I thought the whole point of naming a route was to include your particular rant which people will roll their eyes 20 at years from now. What would you prefer, "Unknown #5"? Aug 26, 2002

Can someone explain what is up with these stupid route names? Boulder Canyon is full of them, with such gems as Ice Hose Chopper Lynch Mob or the eloquent Fuck You. Why bother with bolting and climbing a route if the name of it is just another rant? Tod, I, anonymous coward, challenge you to rename this climb something that people won't roll their eyes at 20 years from now. Aug 26, 2002

I found this route worth doing for sure. Short stout crux. Good crack before that and sweet climbing finishing on Elanor. Was worth doing for sure. Jul 29, 2008

Crux goes easier if you go out to a good handjam instead of under-clinging it. You don't have to stretch so far to get "up" on the hold that way. Jul 9, 2008

Actually kind of fun if you can think past all of the modified holds! Sep 20, 2016

Why is this route here, I thought there was a policy against this! Sep 7, 2008

Does this route involve wild slaps? Nov 11, 2004

AC #2 would you by chance be the infamous author of the Boulder Canyon Sport and ADVENTURE climbing guidebook, Mark Rolofson ???? Because we have already read all your spray about redpointing up to the ___ bolt on all of your over-graded climbs. If you climb to the anchors you redpointed it, but if not, you did not do it.... with love, Crusty, the Trad Monkey Aug 26, 2004

Well, I stuck the lip hold with my left hand, then bumped my right to the crimp before falling, would you agree that it was a solid 12c redpoint, I would give it 12c/d if I matched both hands on the jug before falling. Aug 26, 2004

Yeah, only if you redpoint up to the lip and limply brush it with your hand as you plummet back to earth...but I heard if you mantel the lip you are no longer classified as ultralyte Aug 26, 2004

Let me again assert my support for climbingboulder.com anti-chipping campaign by affirming that this route was clearly modified for "free climbing" purposes. I disagree with the format of the campaign but respect its intent. Nov 7, 2001

Just in case any other climbers get the idea that I modified this route, let me set the record straight. I don't chip routes. Anyone is welcome to check out the dozen or so 5.13 FAs or FFAs I've done in Boulder Canyon and Clear Creek. One route has a reattached hold and a reinforced one. That route also has large drilled holds that I filled in. I consider Dynamic Duel to still be an aid climb and I encourage other climbers to rise to the challenge of climbing without chipped holds whatever the difficulty. Jul 24, 2001

For me, a classic example of reading comments on mountain project before doing a route that has a reputation to make you doubt the thought of flashing (such as everyone saying that anchors are in bad spot). I wouldn't let it deter you. It's a decent gaston to clip from, and you get a good rest before starting the final sequence on a wrapper jug. Use of some gear instead of bolts may have made it smoother/more natural, but I enjoyed it either way. Fun route! Sep 18, 2017

Onsighted the route and then whipped trying to attach draws to the chains. Where they are currently positioned, I believe that the route crux (because of the pump) is the hard, finger lock gaston required to clip the anchor. Bummer.... Sep 8, 2016

I was hanging draws and loved this route until I tried clipping draws on the anchors. I am 5'5" with a +1 and I tried, oh I tried, for the life of me to reach. I was pumped and downclimbed to the jug below, shook out, and then went again; there wasn't shit up there. I was fully extended gastoning (if you can even call it that). I fell because I could not find a way to get the draws on the anchors. What a heartbreaker. Definitely a waste of climbing when, at the top, you find you can't reach to get the draws on. Jun 20, 2016

I did the same as Eric, clip the right anchor, then pull in to place the left one. I hung on as long as I could to clip that left one with no success. May 27, 2015

As for the trouble with clipping both anchors, a leader need only clip the one anyway to lower. As for all the squawking about chopping bolts just because this one particular climb has some possible placements for pro...I wonder if'n these guys complaining have ever really climbed anywhere in Boulder Canyon before. This ain't Yosum, fellas... Jul 16, 2012

I agree that hanging the left draw on the anchor is a pain, hence, I hung the right, clipped in, and then pulled up to hang the left. "One for the send, two for safety". Not worth moving the anchors because it would only make cleaning harder. Jun 30, 2012

Sorry laid it on too thick about the # of ascents. I meant that I have never thought the anchor needed to be moved. BTW I am 5'6". That doesn't mean that I think it shouldn't be moved. The clip is not an essential part of the experience. However, if it was moved right, cleaning the route might be more of an issue? Aug 10, 2010

Like I said in my previous post, I'm NOT suggesting anything. However, if the anchors are not prehung for those of a lesser ape index than myself (6'2" w/ a +8 ape index), my friends that have not done this route 50 times have had a lot of trouble placing the left most draw from the right hand gaston that you speak of. At least the whip that they have taken is quite enjoyable since it's all air. Aug 10, 2010

@jarthur, I have done this route something like 50 times and have never used the crimp that fell off. There is a decent RH gaston/finger jam on the right that is secure enough to clip the anchor as it currently stands. Moving it is probably not necessary. May 24, 2010

There used to be a decent crimp to clip the anchors. However after doing this route yesterday and confirming with my partner it is definitely gone. Now you must clip from the good holds out right, but this makes clipping the left anchor difficult and a stretch if the anchor draws are not already pre-placed. Not that I'm suggesting anything. May 24, 2010

Great climb with continuous moves. Save a little something for the finish because the "pump-o-meter" is nearing redline. Aug 21, 2006

I'm usually in favor of removing bolts if they are placed next to a handcrack, but I don't think this is the case with this route. I've only done this route 3 or 4 times, but is seemed that while there were a few bomber gear placements, others wouldn't be so bomber and the gear would be difficult to place, probably resulting in an "s" rating -- depending on which bolts were left. Sure, Steve D., myself and others would have put this route up differently, but we didn't. As for Greaser and AC: Why is it when somebody like Steve brings up an issue with a route like this, you guys have to stick your fingers back in his face and give him grief about a different route he put up at a different crag, with permission from the FHRC? It gets us nowhere, but in his defense, Saturnalia is well bolted and a great route (in my opinion). NO LO is a pile. It's not the same line that was soloed. The bolts are in bad spots and it gets one star at best. Steve knows he is not perfect and is open to the idea of having the bolts removed if someone feels so inclined to apply to do so. I wish other first ascentionists felt this way. Jul 31, 2004

After forgetting this site for a pleasantly long time I see that not much has changed..... but I'd like to say that I appreciate Richard Wright's thoughtful comments and open-minded attitude. If there's anything that gives a moment's pause to impulse-bolting then it's all for the good - because what's the big hurry? I think a good climb is more than just a series of moves and that over-bolting stunts the imagination and makes it all prosaic and pedestrian. I've said time and time again that I'm not opposed to bolts per se and I can give you examples of sport routes that I like but I doubt that would appease those who delight in simple-minded reductionism. Regarding No Lo Contendre you can read my route description for the history and for Saturnalia I'd remind you that I didn't toprope it before leading it - I did some cleaning on rappel, I pre-placed a couple of RPs with long slings on them, and I worked it out from the bottom up. Then I got approval to place bolts where the RPs were clipped. Find fault with that all you want. I've been somewhat surprised, over the past years, to hear from so many people who share my feeling that Boulder Canyon has become a disgrace. The good & great routes are diminished by the too-close profusion of pointless, grid-bolted flotsam and jetsam. The sole purpose of too many routes seems to lie in "getting a workout" which, really, is available on any pull-up bar. A frenetically careless attitude leads to avoidable accidents and new climbers learn bad habits and not good ones. Maybe some day I'll come back here to read all the pithy insights and vapid humor, but for now I have better things to do. Jul 30, 2004

Bob - No argument there. We're all learning, I suppose. In trying to grapple with where S.D. is coming from, it was not hard to see his side of things. I guess, what I'd like to be able to do is to keep this broader view of things in mind all the time, and you're right I have not always done so. I'm also putting away a lot of very inflammatory things attributed to him. But part of my point in trying to balance the many things that come up when we put up new routes is that we all enjoy the "right" to express ourselves, however we choose, so long as we stay within legal limits. There is a kind of anarchy to climbing as you well know, perhaps even more when put up new routes, and I think we need to hold on to that even if we don't staisify Steve or anyone else. But I can live with a little Steve gremlin perched on one shoulder asking whether that permanent bolt is indeed what we want to leave. Jul 30, 2004

Interesting thoughts, Richard. I'm still a little unclear as to how Saturnalia and No Lo fit in wth Steve's constant and unrelenting position. It seems like his unrelenting position, relents when there's a route he wants to do. But he certainly appears to revel in telling the rest of the climbing community how they should act. Glass houses are still as fragile as ever. Jul 30, 2004

Steve Dieckhoff has been a constant voice in the climbing community for at least as long as I have been climbing myself (4 May 1980). In this entire period, he has expressed a constant opinion, and as near as I can tell he has never relented and has never hidden from his opinion. He makes the point that placing a bolt trumps a trad placement, because it becomes a permanent feature of the landscape and asks the question "does placing a bolt confer a special right to permanently alter the landscape?" He comes up with "no" as an answer. There are least a few critical elements that require consideration in this complex and evolving issue. First, if placing a bolt on unrestricted rock is a "right" of the first ascensionists, then restoring the rock must necessarily be an equivalent "right". Second, climbing has always held room for the climber to express their own creativity, and where this creativity does not infringe upon legal restriction it should be given unrestricted expression. Third, what Steve wants, as best as I can determine, is for the first ascesionists to consider well the interests of the climbing community at large and to exercise respect for a limited resource. There are, of course, a lot of things to consider in weighing these concerns, but surely he must be correct in this demand. As far as Elanor is concerned, the climbing community has, in general, voiced little opposition to the bolts and the route can be climbed without clipping them all. It's a fine route with brilliant climbing and Mark saw it best as a fully bolted line. Is there anything here that we cannot live with? Jul 30, 2004

"Thanks for the doublespeak explanation, Steve. Let's see, another and even better example of doublespeak would be Saturnalia. A route which toproped climbing that had previously been led onsight and then poorly retrobolted that climbing. And lets not forget no lo contendere, which also poorly bolted rock that had been onsight soloed. What knd of special honor should we confer on you?" Interesting... Anyway, I've climbed this many times as it is a great warm up, and have never thought of it as a trad line. I generally don't clip the last bolt, and therefore, would not place gear in the short crack at the top. It is a sport route and a good one. I have no problem with it as it is. By the way, there is a crack that goes in the .11+ range (next to Elanor) that was not bolted where gear can be placed. I think that demonstrates a reasonable descretion on the part of those to developed the area. All of this sounds like nitpicking to me. Jul 30, 2004

Easter has about 25 routes (all bolted). Elanor could be the odd single route requiring you to carry a rack so you can place 2 cams near the top. Which means no one would do it , because most folks woudn't bring a rack to Easter Rock - you go there to clip bolts. This route isn't Rincon or Country Club - I think you guys are making a mountain out of a molehill. Good route on great stone. Jul 30, 2004

Thanks for the doublespeak explanation, Steve. Let's see, another and even better example of doublespeak would be Saturnalia. A route which toproped climbing that had previously been led onsight and then poorly retrobolted that climbing. And let's not forget No Lo Contendere, which also poorly bolted rock that had been onsight soloed. What knd of special honor should we confer on you? Jul 30, 2004

Yes, this is a typical example of doublespeak. On the one hand this is only a gym route (and gym routes are changed with regularity) but on the other there is supposed to be a special honor conferred on somebody who poorly bolts a piece of rock after top-roping it. It's ironic that the "right of the first-ascentionist" is the one traditional right proclaimed, even when they really aren't a first-ascentionist at all but only a misguided routesetter. Jul 29, 2004

Ok, easy, guys. I'm not asking anyone to chop bolts. I was just curious to see what people think about bolts on top of clean pro. Maybe I used the wrong wording. I just don't think a bolt should be next to good clean pro. You can hate me for that if you wish. Jul 29, 2004

Should this route be chopped? I propose that suggestions like this be made by people who are willing to sign their names as well. There is roughly 1/3 of the climb that is readily protectable with natural gear. The bottom crack, which is probably where Steve D clipped bolts, is mostly blind and/or thin with poor or no placements until after the second crux where the crack system opens up, . Then it's pretty easy up to the last crux where a good crack exists as well. Would it be as popular or as fun without bolts? Anyone interested can check out the crack to the right which gets done very infrequently despite its high quality and good gear. My suggestion to AC--go ahead and climb Eleanor without bolts or without a rope or in flip-flops, but otherwise keep the talk about route-chopping to himself, unless he's willing to identify himself. Jul 24, 2004

Questions to consider to answer the above question: 1) Is this a retro-bolt of an previously existing trad route?2) Did you place the bolts? If the answer to the above questions is 'NO', then of course you should not chop the bolts. ac Jul 24, 2004

3 stars for the moves, But I have to bomb the bolts where there is clean pro. I hate to start this, but too bad. Should they be chopped? Jul 24, 2004

Somebody should go over the top on this one. It seems like it would go by somebody stronger than me. Jul 14, 2004

I felt the crux to be about mid way. Good sustained climbing. Jul 13, 2003

I believe I used the 2nd & 3rd bolts, but I'd have to look at the route to be sure. Jul 1, 2002

Which two? Jul 1, 2002

Led w/2bolts, and it's easier to placer cams on the top 1/2 than to clip the bolts. This would have been a very good route. Jul 1, 2002

Excellent route, well protected, thoughtful, pumpy...lots of fun! The downside? Cleaning the draws on the way down...you'll see.... Jun 1, 2002

Was up there yesterday and noticed the glued block was starting to shift around, could probably use some more epoxy. As for the grade, I would say a 12-. 12a for sure if you are short like me (5’4” with -1 apex). I found the best way for the crux for me was use pinky/ring finger in pocket, left heel hook on slopes, then reach all way to small left crimp, clip, right hand good crimp. Super fun anyways! Nov 3, 2017

This would probably be 5.10a in Rifle, CO.... Soft! Feb 17, 2017

Agree with previous comments that it is a difficult onsight but a much easier redpoint. Beta: with small fingers, you can get a great two finger pocket jam at the crux, skip the low crimp, and with a high left foot slap the left hand up on the arete to the good crux crimp. Doing the move this way almost feels like neutering the route for me, because it really feels quite casual. Sep 8, 2016

Just snagged this today! I had a lot of fun climbing this. For me at 5'8", the crux move was very tricky to figure out, and I wasn't able to do it completely statically. Nevertheless this thing is aesthetic on sticky granite and an absolute joy ride. Jun 30, 2016

Such an amazing climb. I do agree that the on-sight would be a 12a and the red-point would be a few letters easier. Some moves become a lot easier when you know what to look for. Sep 15, 2015

Wonderful climb, great movement the whole way. Looks like there are a few ways people pull through the crux. If you're short, the hardest part of the climb may be at the slabbed out part before the third bolt. Jul 21, 2014

What he said ^. spoiler* Also, there's a great hands-free stance post crux (you can turn to your left and sit on your right foot on the ramp with your left foot wedged in the pocket on the face). Good place to de-pump before heading left to the chains. Best of the grade I've ever done in Bocan thus far. Jun 12, 2013

This route is an absolutely mesmerizing line from the guidebook, the ground and especially when clipping chains from the top...sometimes in your dreams. The underlying beauty of this line comes in multiple facets: Clipping the first bolt off of a bomber, in-cut, right hand jug with huge feet quells any minor concerns for safety. Your first moves immediately after are not difficult but instead are just strenuous enough to let you know, "you're in it." Moving up the arete uses powerful and sustained movement on holds that are good but that begin to take their toll and require thoughtfulness and balance, as well as a very tight core. As your mental duct tape begins to come undone and your heavy breath becomes apparent, the voice in your head changes from "I'm going to send," to "damn... I'm pumped!?!" THEN you look up and see the crux. The sequence requires big moves off small holds to another small hold... a hard move I've seen done more than one way. This challenging dead point move up to an in-cut, half pad crimp has to be accurate and controlled. Although this climb only has 7 bolts, it is deceptively long. All of the lateral movement involved adds an additional 30 feet, which only makes this one better. As for the grade...I won't try to speculate on the difficulty.... If you climb 5.13, it's probably easy. If you climb 511...it's going to feel really hard.... The point is that either way, this route is really fun and I highly recommend it to everyone. For those you you who like to have fun climbing...don't be discouraged by people who are too good to climb something that has a glued-on hold...they probably don't like having fun anyway.... May 19, 2013

Hey, lost my Gri-Gri 2 here yesterday... if you saw/have it, please call me 303-359-6831. mountainproject.com/v/lost-… May 28, 2011

Only in Boulder have I heard a difference between onsight and redpoint grades. Seems ridiculous. So, if it takes 8 attempts, does that bump the grade to 10a? May 28, 2011

Awesome position and movement. One of the best sport climbs in BC. Aug 21, 2006

I climbed this route yesterday. Just an FYI, it seems the glued block on this route is loose. This was my first time climbing the route so I have no idea what it was like before. When I grabbed the hold I heard it shift in its place. Has it always been like this? It still seems safe to me though because it didn't shift much. It just seems that the glue may not be doing much to hold it in place. Fun route. Aug 2, 2006

Fun. Great workout. Who could ask for more? Jul 4, 2006

The glue doesn't bother me; the block in question is big enough that it would be quite a project to safely get it to the ground without going to the road and I also believe that the presence of the block makes the climb better. Something that bothers me more, recently a fist-size pink splotch of paint appeared just below the crux that has been identified as resulting from a paintball, how totally lame. Aug 29, 2005

Of course redpoint grades feel easier that onsites, hence the concept of a redpoint. Grades are based on onsites. Anyway and more important, all agree this is a great route! Oct 28, 2003

Brilliant route. 12a onsight grade; 11b/c redpoint. Oct 28, 2003

Great line, fun climbing. Jul 13, 2003

I've gotta say that despite the usual sport-crag atmosphere, Easter Rock is one of the best small crags, trad or sport, in the Boulder area. This route in particular, I found to be one of the most enjoyable sport climbs in the Front Range. As compared to other sport climbs of the grade, I think 12a is pretty much right on, though it is a one-move wonder kind of crux. As to Tony's comment above, I don't want to necessarily start a debate on the comparison of sport and trad grades, but yes, it did feel slightly harder than the mid-5.11 cruxes of routes at Eldo like the Naked Edge, Climb of the Century, etc. The difference though, of course, is that you're clipping bolts instead of dicking in RPs or purple TCUs as is typical of those Eldo climbs. Though it is totally different in style, at Eldo Empire is maybe 11c/d? a short 12a crux section Jun 4, 2003

Hey 'Bubb', who cares? About AC or the grade. This is a great route; nice setting, beautiful moves and has many ways to do the crux. I would suggest this route for women especially since every women I have seen does well on it. Have fun. Jun 20, 2002

Empire Of The Fenceless was the Easiest of the three 5.12's I did this weekend. I didn't want to confuse my comment regarding chipping with a grades argument though because I am not trying to bitch about the route in general. It was very fun overall. I was, however, trying to express that I was pretty pleased, and then bummed to see the glue. As for the grade, I could have said 5.11b, but I've been getting a lot af flack for "sandbagging" lately, so I figured WTF- maybe I am having a good season... Either that or there really is a big difference between Sport and trad grades. Is Empire Of the Fenceless harder than the crux of The Naked Edge? The Diving Board? Kloof (admittedly, a sandbag at 5.11a)? Not in my opinion. Maybe the bolts being so close make me feel more secure and it is mentally easier, but I'd say it is not much harder than Gravity's Angel or Home Free either (both are 5.11b, sport). Certainly this route did not feel as hard to me as Fuzzy Dice (5.12a sport) on Cadillac crag. Jun 18, 2002

Soft for .12a, more like .11d. Jun 18, 2002

I noticed the re-enforced block on the arete as well. The rock that was glued on was obviously native and in place, but It looked junky and I was kinda bummed to see that. Gee, my first "5.12" on-sight of the season and it turns out to be on a "borderline altered" route. Folks, this is otherwise a great route, and would have still been one less that block as well. Why not clean it instead of put a bunch of epoxy up there? With the available holds for feet that are off to the left anyway, I don't think that the climb would have been substantially different without the glue. If you feel that you have to glue something, please do so carefully and discretely, keeping the junk out of sight. Jun 18, 2002

First, the route name is 'Empire of the Fenceless'- that's my fault for the error. Second, there are glued holds on this route. I honestly can't tell if any were manufactured (I don't think there aree any), but a couple of the jugs have some epoxy behind them for support. Just thought I'd put the word out. Nov 6, 2001

Regardless of how you do the climbing getting to the last the last bolt, there are still two sections of 5.12 moves in a row - at the 7th bolt & the crux at the 8th (last) bolt. Traversing left out of the rest on Eleanor to reach the 7th bolt isn't hard. Jul 23, 2017

I personally disagree. I have done both routes Nevermore and Evermore and believe that this is not very hard and gives you no pump. You also skip part of the crux, the traverse section. Then you do basically two moves of crux. It felt pretty easy and went 2nd go. I think it is definitely more in the 12b/c range and would say that Ten Digit Dialing is harder than this route, but I'm just climbing to have fun, and it was a fun route...I'm just giving an opinion. Feb 14, 2017

This was the third sport route established at the crag in May 1995. I don't know how you can call it contrived or .12b/c. The final crux is the same as Nevermore, but getting to the last bolt presents an interesting dyno as well. After clipping 7th bolt, I make a big dyno with my right hand to the good hold to clip last bolt from. Yes, you could avoid this dyno by traversing more left & doing this section the same way as Nevermore (.12a), but it feels run out enough I have always done the dyno. Cool move. The problem with rating it .12b/c, or even .12c, is this climb is at least two letter grades harder than Tell Tale Heart. I noticed that you are rating Tell Tale Heart (.12b), Train 4 Life. To say this is only half a letter grade harder is absurd. I originally rated Tell Tale Heart .12a, but after watching many climbers slightly shorter than me struggle, I decided it should be rated .12b & thus it was first guidebooked at that grade in 1996. So if you rate Tell Tale Heart (.12a/b), you could rate could rate Evermore (.12c/d). There are 8 bolts total. Jun 12, 2015

A contrived problem of what is on and off. Grades easier than Nevermore...I think this route is in the 12b range, maybe 12c! Basically no pump going into the crux and then a much easier way to get into it with basically a V4 move to the jug! Feb 22, 2015

Ha, that's funny Patrick. You're the only other person I 've heard uses that beta other than myself and I've seen lots of people on the finish. That finger lock becomes extra good with the perfect amount of tape on the ring finger you could almost shake out on it. Stellar climb anyway you do it. Jul 13, 2014

Or you guys could use the obvious finger lock, no dyno required! Jul 9, 2014

Okay...so left hand on good sloper...right hand on sharp crimp up high! From there, get your right foot up to a small chip and left foot high heel hook...you rock off the heel, and it's not that big of a throw to the jug! Enjoy! :) Jul 9, 2014

I think there are two ways to toss up to the jug...one uses a sharp R hand with a devious L foot higher than you want, the key is to keep the L foot on long enough to toss/stand up with you L hand to latch the jug. I think the other way involves going up with you R hand with lower, more even feet...better if you are taller. Jun 7, 2005

Any beta for the crux moves? From the slopey rail, it seems like a monsterous move to a jug. Any trickery here? The crux is difficult to work, since you end up taking repeated sizeable whippers while trying things out. Jun 6, 2005

Great extension to Elanor. The no hands rest on Elanor makes this significantly less pumpy than Nevermore. Still requires creativity for the devious crux. 8 bolts. Sep 6, 2004

The variation is called Nevermore and is rated 5.13.a. Starting on Tell Tale Heart would certainly add nicely to the pump factor. Jun 27, 2002

Another good option is to climb the crux of Telltale Heart, move right above the roof, and hook up with Evermore. This link up is more sustained and flows like honey on hot cakes. Try and suppress the urge to lunge at the crux. Simply jack your right foot up to a good foothold and go all the way with your right hand. The left hand hold is bad (sloper) but body position make the move possible! Jun 26, 2002

To the above poster, I would very much like to know how you did that. What do you mean by tic-tac? Also, please explain what you mean by bat-hanging. This route feels like a bolted V5/V6 boulder problem to me, and I wasn't able to get a single productive kneebar. Perhaps if you are downgrading most of the routes by at least a full number grade, you can explain to us what you are doing so well that the rest of us aren't. It seems to me that you troll. May 18, 2017

I essentially tick-tacked up this thing statically. The key was bat hanging through both cruxes. It would be 11d at Rifle, CO (apparently).... Oct 31, 2016

Right knee pad helps w/ last two clips. Commenting as a really tall climber, any advantage one gains in one part of the route is later negated. For example, I can reach through the lower crux but have to campus to get fully established in the corner - I have yet to see anyone do lower crux statically. I have noticed that smaller climbers are not nearly as bunched in the middle section of the business. Also, shorter climbers can cop a second kneebar to shake just before the finish, but taller climbers can not. Oct 25, 2014

Thanks for posting, Mark. I'm definitely a shorter climber 5'6", -1 ape, so that is probably why it feels .13 to me. Regardless, the route is excellent and the movement incredibly fun. I just went up there again yesterday, and I have to say, the condition of the hardware is fine to me. The hangers are totally fine, and the fixed draws are in good condition...maybe getting slightly weather worn but not in need of immediate replacement. On the chain draw, the final thin link is questionable, but has been reinforced with a carabiner, so it is isolated and out of the system. I've certainly whipped hard on much worse. May 28, 2012

"Flying Beast" has been one of my favorite routes in the canyon since I established it in 1995. The reason that I gave the route a slash grade is because it is a very height- & reach-dependent climb. For me, it is 5.12d, not 5.13a because I am tall. I find "Nevermore" to be just a bit harder, even though it could be rated 5.12d/13a as well. Slash grading makes a lot of sense to me. It is easy to argue over grades, and as a guidebook writer, I have learned no matter hard you try, you will never please everyone. When I look at a route's difficulty, I ask myself what's the hardest you would a climb & what the easiest. Is it soft for its grade or stiff? As for fixed draws. I never considered putting fixed draws on this route. I have redpointed it at least 25 times & cleaning it is not that bad. I think some routes & certain bolts should have fixed chain draws because cleaning them is extremely difficult or bad for your rope. "Mighty Dog" in Clear Creek is one good example and I put the chain draws on that route. It seems like more climbers want to turn the crags into an outdoor gym. Today's redpoint style was yesterday's pinkpoint style. If you have redpointed a route with the draws on it, the next way to up your performance is to redpoint the route 1st try of that day hanging the draws. I have done this on "Flying Beast" a few times. Usually I have redpointed it second try, after a hangdogging up the route I place the draws. That said I don't care that someone fixed draws on this route, but they do need some maintenance from time to time. I can't imagine that the 1/2" Rawl 5 piece bolts need an upgrade, because this route sees very little rain down its ceiling. I will take a look at the draws & bolts soon however. I have much experience replacing bolts, & if any these bolts need replacing, they can removed and the same holes used again. If you don't know how to do this, then don't bother replacing them, I will. May 25, 2012

If you guys really feel like the condition of the hardware is that bad, and especially if you think it is dangerous, you should think about using the "condition report" function. Personally, the draws didn't look that <%. May 18, 2012

GEAR WARNING:The fixed draws on the Flying Beast need to be replaced (or removed) ASAP. If I had tools with me yesterday, I would have removed them. DO NOT use the 3rd fixed draw, the fixed link in direct contact with the bolt is badly warn and will break with a good fall. If you want to climb this route in the interim, bring your own draws. Be safe, scared the SH#t out of me and my partner when we saw the condition of this gear. May 16, 2012

I thought it was solid 11a. C'mon, people. Who cares what the grade is. 13a or 12d is more or less the same, remember? Great route nonetheless with some fun bouldery movements and some challenging clips with a fun finishing move which I couldn't seem to figure out for the life of me until someone showed me. As of 5-5-12, this route is in need of some fixed gear replacement. The very last fixed draw before the anchors which people seem to whip upon a lot is extremely worn on the side where it attaches to the hanger. Not sure if you're going to get this bugger off without a hacksaw. If I get around to it this summer, I plan on replacing the draws with steel permadraws, although the bolts and hangers look like they could use an update as well. Overall, still safe the way it is, but I give the last permadraw a couple more big whips and it's gonna snap off. So, I would hang your draw on that one until someone replaces it. Enjoy! May 6, 2012

Felt like a 13 to me, but whatever. Certainly seemed harder than anything else I've done at Easter, but notably a totally different style too. It's nice that there are draws hanging on it. They were in pretty good condition as of 30 April, 2012. The last few clips are kind of tenuous, so be aware. They aren't really dangerous, just kind of unsettling. Regardless of any grade controversy, this is a very fun route. One of the best in the area (unless you hate slopers). May 3, 2012

What's with all the slash grades? They make something that is already highly arbitrary even more meaningless. Take the lower grade and move on. Aug 6, 2009

The guidebook I have says 12d/13a. I wonder if the consensus would fall closer to there if it were an option on mountain project. I don't want to labor the point since I feel that a lot of the disagreement over grades is because they are dissected so finely. It's just that 12c/d is an option, but 12d/13a is not. Jul 3, 2008

Physical, athletic movement -- 12d/13a; a high-quality route... Sep 26, 2006

A very bouldery route, basically a 10-move V5 boulder problem with a couple hard clips, but this is nowhere close to 13a. Maybe on the Boulder Canyon scale you could argue 13a, but at Rifle this would clock in at closer to 12c, even without the knee-bars or hip-scums, which I did not find. Similar in difficulty to Nevermore, maybe a titch harder or easier depending on your strengths. Jul 12, 2005

This thing is stout, kneepads anyone? Jun 25, 2005

Note: The previous comment is from the same AC 24.8.164.57 downrating Nevermore. If you had a hard time with Flying Beast and an easier one with Nevermore, maybe one route suits you better. Ease up. Sep 20, 2004

13a - powerful and MUCH harder than Evermore. Sep 19, 2004

We climbed this route today, and there didn't seem to be any more loose death-blocks. The high crux (where I think the flake must have fallen off) is now somewhere around 11d. I stepped left onto some slopers (after some hang-dogging). Sep 13, 2017

The route is certainly more difficult now! Glad nobody was hurt when the rockfall happened. Some of the carnage: A missing hold. Jul 25, 2017

The route still goes in its new form, it's actually more interesting now. From the highest layback next to the rock scar, exit left on slopers and mantel onto the pillar. Maybe a little harder now? Jun 2, 2017

So 6x4 meaning 6 feet by 4 feet? Wow! I know that the top of that route was always a little unconsolidated but yikes! May 14, 2017

The rockfall event referenced by mc kaiser was major - there was debris visible all around the base of the route today. The trail itself was damaged by the impact. It is miraculous that no one was injured, it easily could have killed the belayer. We did not climb the route but found a few large rocks around the base with chalk on them, so we knew a part of a route and fallen off. May 13, 2017

I climbed this yesterday and changed the route forever. On the last lieback section I reached for a jug before a large ledge, and upon grabbing it, heard a faint creaking, and suddenly began to fall backwards with a large 6 x 4ish flake in my hands. Fortunately, I'm pretty large, and my belayer (thinking quickly) hopped up while my fall pulled him up and safely away from the rock fall zone. I only came away with a bruised leg and chest, and my partner was unscathed. The scary part about this is that the flake looked totally solid and is very clearly the way the route went. It's now probably a letter grade or two harder. No bolts appear to have been impacted. Wear a helmet! Even if it's 'just' sport climbing. May 13, 2017

Definitely a low crux on this one and very technical, which doubtless lends heavy credence to its name! Be sure you have a good belayer, as a fall after the first bolt could mean a deck on the block. Very sustained movement afterwards, and largely a mental game! Breathe easy and finish strong! Aug 27, 2015

Warm-up? Who on earth would warm-up on this one? Right from the get go, you have to reach high off a sketchy block to clip the first bolt, then crimp like hell off opposing side-pulls, grovel your feet left, pull hard and throw to a rounded bump with the right hand, then reach way out left, and continue on insecure verticalness to the top. My partner and I were quite pumped after this 2nd route of the day and felt ready to just go home (but we stayed to flail on more routes). Eleanor was more sustained for sure, but this had a more technical, insecure, and just plain weird start. May 26, 2015

Polished and Grovelly(sp?), with a necessary tree encounter at the top. There are more worthy warmups at Easter Rock. Jun 1, 2011

The opening moves are kind of reachy and the landing is not great and if you're short like me (5'4"), it's hard to hang the first draw from a safe stance. If the draw is already hung, clipping the rope is possible. Luckily, some nice boys let me use their stick clip pole thingy. Aug 10, 2008

Not very similar Elanor, there is a sit down rest 1/2 way, although it feels rather obscene. Jul 16, 2008

I think it is because Elanor one is more sustained and people burn out. I felt more pressed on that one. I suppose The Joker could be more technical, but doesn't punch as hard at the top.... May 1, 2008

Funny to see Elanor getting an 11+ rating and this route 11b on this site. I would agree with the 11 rating for this route. It actually feels harder than Elanor to me. From what I've seen with other folks climbing it, I bet Elanor gets onsighted more than this route. My point being Elanor at 11+ is probably quite over rated. The ratings in Bolter Canyon sure are wacky... But then BC is its own world. May 1, 2008

People tend to get shutdown on this route. Having a hair-raising and pumping experience on the onsight, I agree that this route is quality and fun. Having watched most climbers get shutdown hard, I understand why some do not regard it so highly. Relax, have fun, and pull hard - this route is cool. May 14, 2004

Did this route again last night and I have to say this is a pretty great line for a 6 bolt 11b. It overhangs the whole way and stays in your face with slippery feet and hidden holds - it couldn't be much better. I think it is one of the better middle 11 sport routes in all of Boulder Canyon. Aug 21, 2002

This is fun, varied route with a brutal and deceiving opening sequence. Above that is a weird flare that feels very awkward and insecure. Finally, it finishes with burly lieback moves. Jul 16, 2002

FYI - the route actually has 5 bolts on it before the anchors (though the first two are super close). Apr 24, 2017

I suppose it might be 10b or so if you stay under the bolt line at the start as the holds are sloping downward, but as this was a warm-up, I climbed left of the bolt line on easier ground. May 26, 2015

It is worth noting that the second pitch climbs very well at around 5.12+ (height-dependent). Despite being chipped, the stone is great, and the moves are fun. Nov 4, 2014

P1 is a great warm-up (as the description says), but I wouldn't have thought it was any harder than .10. Jun 12, 2013

P1 is 10a/b-ish, P2 goes at 13a-ish. Aug 1, 2007

I don't get how the name implies warm-up. Jul 15, 2002

The extension is plainly chipped. It would not be "free-climbable" otherwise, but this certainly deserves noting. Mar 7, 2002

A decent 'warm up' route as mentioned in the name. The bottom is a bit of an eliminate but once situated on the arete, the climbing is nice to the top. Wondering what the second half of this route goes at, from the anchors to next 5 bolts? I would only give this a 1 star for rock quality and the amount of lichen still on the rock. Well protected moves getting over the first lip and to the anchors. Sep 12, 2001

I guess it is "easy" compared to the other routes at this cliff, but this combination is much harder than either the Joker or the Riddler as it combines the hardest parts of both, though you do get a pretty decent rest before switching routes. Very continuous, challenging climbing. Aug 26, 2002

There are several ways to dispatch the crux. Only one way worked for me, and it was very low percentage with some precise body positioning. If you are tall, I can see harder 12 for this route. For everyone else, 13a seems fair. I have never fallen slipping off a finishing hold so many times. Oct 18, 2017

I don't know. I never climbed a 13 before, AND I'm ugly...probably only 12b. Oct 8, 2015

Or just clean the route on the backside as an extra "training" pitch. Sep 13, 2015

Another way to clean the route is to climb back down from the anchor-remove the last clip-finish on Tell Tale. We found this way creates an easier clean, and you get in some more climbing. Aug 24, 2015

In response to Jay Samuelson not understanding the anchor placement: Evermore was established before Nevermore, & the anchor works good for it. Secondly, I did not want someone doing Tell Tale Heart to go to this anchor. Climbers can climb Evermore & Tell Tale Heart at the same time, but not if they mistakenly arrive at the same anchor. Thirdly, before drilling, I always hammer tap the rock to make sure it is solid & not hollow sounding. I can't remember if this could have a factor. As for cleaning, it seems that gyms have raised some very strong climbers whose technical skills are a bit lacking. Try tramming to the rope with a single biner attached to your belay loop rather than a draw. I do use a draw but clip the rope biner directly to the loop, so I am into a single biner to the rope versus clipping the bolt biner into the belay loop & rope biner into the rope. The commom second method is a good way to pinch the skin on your bicep between rope & biner or your breast, ladies. Tramming in short generally avoids skin or nimble loss & keeps you in closer. Try it on the steepest overhang. It works. Lastly, I don't usually clean the first bolt when lowering. I climb back up from the ground to retrieve it afterwards. Jun 30, 2015

Definitely one of my all time favorites. Tell Tale Heart was the first sport route on the crag, followed by Elanor, then Evermore (the easier way to get to the same crux from Elanor), then Empire Of The Fenceless, then Flying Beast. After that, I put up Nevermore in July 1995. I had the crux move wired doing it on "Evermore" but fell just shy on the horizontal jug break for almost 5 days on Nevermore. I had to find a better way to dyno this crux. I finally redpointed it on day 6. After the first ascent, I repeated it numerous times that summer. I have probably redpointed it 20 times between 1995 & 2004. I have thought it could be rated 5.12d/13a. I am tall, & it feels like .12d in good cool conditions, but I have done it so many times it isn't fair to call it anything but .13a (what I originally rated it). I love the flow of the moves on this climb & the aggressive crux dyno. Best day at this crag has been sending Elanor, Flying Beast, Nevermore, The Penguin, & Empire Of The Fenceless. That's a good day. Jun 11, 2015

What a great route! It just keeps getting better and better as you climb higher and higher, climaxing with an awesome deadpoint to a mega-jug! Doesn't get much better than that, I had a really good time working on and climbing this route. Definitely one of the best, if not the best route at the crag. I didn't understand why the anchor bolts are 3 feet to the right though, makes cleaning more difficult. Sep 4, 2012

This route is truly amazing and one of the best at Easter Rock. You get to do the amazing and fun crux of Tell Tale Heart, then cut right and go through a burly section of slopey moves to a final deadpoint off a really bad sloper. This route is dope and definitely 4 stars in my book. Do it when it's cold! Jun 27, 2012

This thing definitely felt 5.13a. Sure, it is much easier with the right beta, but then again so is every route. By far one of the best in Boulder Canyon. Super fun climb with awesome movement! Jun 29, 2010

Things to know if you want to do this route to beef up your 8a scorecard, or just your spraysumé, and aren't the type to just climb for the experience of climbing: > Crux finale seems stout for the shorter climber using the right-hand-crimp method. Heel hooks are NOT mandatory at the crux. > Basically feels like climbing a solid 5.12a followed by a 5-to-6-move V5. > I'd say it was soft if I hadn't missed the finishing jug a half-dozen times already. Beware. > My buddy who did Sonic Youth (5.12d/13a) found this to be more difficult, in that Sonic took him fewer tries. > I think this route does favor the power climber, since the climbing leading up to the crux is pretty easy, especially when you get it dialed. Chuff on, chuffers. Oct 27, 2008

This is a fantastic route--sustained, pumpy, and technical on cool holds. Highly recommended. May 3, 2006

I have seen very well established climbers not be able to do the moves on this route - much less link it. For those who feel it is easy for the grade - more power to you. Dec 28, 2004

This route can feel a lot easier depending on conditions and the height of the climber. If you feel a route is off by two letter grades you should probably register and let us all know who's keeping the "newbies" in their place. Some who think this route is pretty hard aren't newbies. Sep 20, 2004

12c not even close to thirteen a - sorry, newbies. Sep 19, 2004

13b/c. Aug 26, 2004

12c. Aug 25, 2004

Now Ryan,.....be nice. Sep 12, 2002

I heard Willie flogs dead horses when he's not sending 5.13.... Aug 30, 2002

This is one of the better routes I have done in the canyon. Sustained technical power endurance culminating in some nice sloper moves and a throw. Can't ask for much more. Aug 18, 2002

Super fun! A 60m is good for rappel from the top anchor, with enough left over that I'd guess lowering would work too. Jun 16, 2016

Oh, this is a very fun climb, esp. the overhanging jug bit and the chunky top section, too. Would be a great warm-up, except for the first 2 strenuous, sketchy clips. May 27, 2015

FFA: Alan Nelson, probably 2000. Oct 23, 2014

Certainly, a memorable route & one I have repeated several times since Alan & I made the first ascent on September 16, 2000. We originally rated it 5.12a, but I think it isn't quite that hard, & I call 5.11d. The moves past the 2nd & 3rd bolt on pitch 2 are the crux, but the redpoint crux is the finish. Lots of 5.11 climbing on pitch 2. I find it slightly more difficult than Elanor (which I have pretty wired). I would say they are the same grade. The moves at the start of pitch 1 have always felt like solid 5.11 & involve some awkward stemming. The first 2 bolts are close, & I don't remember thinking the clip to the 2nd bolt was a big deal. As for combining the two pitches into one, it isn't something I've ever done. The sloping ledge atop pitch 1 is a great rest. It is nice to have good communication with your partner on the 2nd pitch, so I would recommend doing the climb in two pitches. Jul 23, 2017

I saw the bottom boulder problem done three different ways. The way I did it involved stemming, creative footwork, small crimps, and went no harder than V2. It was easy enough to clip the bolts. Overall, a really good route when the pitches are combined and a good second warm-up after Road to Emmaus. Use extended alpine draws or long runners on some of the bolts when linking up P1 & P2. Plenty of rope left with a 70. A 60 might just make it to the ground. Jul 23, 2014

I felt the bottom was V2/3. Not a great warmup as the crux is off the ground. Sep 6, 2013

I really don't think the start is any harder than .11a/b. It's just really f*cking awkward working through those first two bolts. I would recommend stick-clipping them; if you blew either of them, it could make for a pretty bad day. Jun 12, 2013

No warm up, and I still thought the lower boulder problem was no harder than 5.11, but I'm a strong crimper. Jul 14, 2012

2.5 stars. The boulder problem start is much harder than anything on the 2nd pitch, definitely harder than 5.11. 2nd pitch is quite good, but expect rope drag if using standard length draws. There is one bolt that is too far to the left around a sharp arete that really adds to the rope drag. Aug 22, 2008

Good warm-up to burn off your friends. Sep 6, 2017

Juggy flake is gone! Now you hit the recently revealed holds just above the 4th bolt. Go up left to a sloping flake in the corner, then dyno up to the sloper over the lip. Fun new 5.12 moves. Jun 2, 2017

This is such a cute route! Being a yogini helps make it easier. Really enjoyed. Jul 26, 2015

Not too bad until you hit the crux. Then it's hard. Jan 12, 2014

Climbing the arete slightly right of the crimpy crux makes it 12a. Jul 2, 2012

In August 2000, I actually did more than just equip this climb. I redpointed to where I was able to grab the right anchor (.12c). My intent was not to stop here but to traverse more left to the jug on the lip of the giant overhang. Here the anchor can be clipped. So I took the right anchor bolt out & put a new left anchor bolt in. The original left bolt becoming the right, so you couldn't end the route this way. I then added the last protection bolt which is a hard clip. The last moves to the jug are quite hard. I was never able to do them. I haven't been on it for years, but I am surprised to see it rated only .12d. The finish seemed more like 5.13. I had no problem letting Peter get the FFA. I had enough of the bat shit flake. The hard traverse past the flake is excellent if you can stomach the flake. May 25, 2015

Ben, that is an old project. The traverse is chipped, but the upper seam/corner is all natural and brick hard, maybe V13 bouldering? May 7, 2015

Does anyone know the name of the line just to the left of the climber in the picture (in between this one and Dynamic Duel)? There is also a bolted traverse running through that is not listed on this site or in the book. May 5, 2015

This route is much better than the first twenty feet look, and it is possible to avoid the brown stuff. It's left of the Flying Beast not Dynamic Duel. You get to the finishing jug by moving down and left, not by going straight up to the area of the anchors. Aug 29, 2002

This climb follows the obvious traverse line on the left end of the long overhang. Jun 25, 2002

When giving the details, please give info that will get one to the climb without a guidebook in hand. Dynamic Duel is referenced. Where is that? Jun 20, 2002

What's up with finishing on the Flying Beast anchors? Doesn't Rain Shadow have its own set of manky tat anchors to go to? I don't blame anyone for not wanting to use those anchors as they're definitely not as confidence inspiring as the ones on FB but continuing directly up the crack in the corner seems like the intended line. Did Dan Hare have anything to say about the finish when the above video was made? Jul 12, 2009

Video of the climb at. vimeo.com/5235917 Jul 9, 2009

I totally agree with awkward and weird. Sometimes more satisfying to send those. Fun, delicate traverse to kind of desperate corner that felt hard on onsight. Definitely pulled out some shoulder scums while trying find the jug at top of corner. Sep 18, 2017

Awkward and weird, so a must do! The anchor is invisible from below and is up on a slab well above the last bolt. Two solid bolts with a ring, so no reason to lower earlier. It did seem like a foot hold has disappeared from the last ledge. I'm 5'6" and just campused up and right from the good left hand hold. Maybe I missed something. Mar 16, 2017

Very beta intensive. There are a lot of sucker holds. May 31, 2011

Harder than Elanor...\;o) IMHO. Aug 7, 2009

1 star? Come on! At some BoCan cliffs, this would be 3 stars and the best climb on the crag. Jul 14, 2005

It has probably been over a decade since I last did this climb, but I did it a couple times at least. Alan wasn't trying to contrive a "bouldery, lip encounter" problem on pitch 2. I do remember using a big undercling on the right. As for the rating, I don't have a strong opinion, except to say I don't think it is only .11a. I was climbing quite strong in 2000 & climbing a lot. 4 times a week & sometimes 10 pitches of 5.11a to 5.13a in a day. Jul 23, 2017

Both pitches can be linked into one super pitch, which I think goes as 11b, but use long draws or even some runners, or the rope drag at the top will be really bad. Jul 17, 2014

For what it's worth, the chain on the first bolt is back. Oct 14, 2012

There was a chain on the first bolt for several years that eliminated the unneccesarily dangerous moves to the first bolt. Someone swiped it. Bring a stick clip, replacement chain or health insurance. Jul 21, 2012

Terrific climbing, but don't blow it getting to the first bolt. Jul 28, 2010

A 60m gets you to the ground with plenty to spare. Sep 10, 2009

I agree with Chris -- 2nd pitch is easy 11 and using the undercling/sidepull follows the line naturally. 2nd pitch is one of the best jug hauls in Boulder Canyon at the grade. The fun factor is very high on this one. Probably the best "easy" route at Easter Rock. Aug 22, 2008

Mark rates the 2nd pitch of this route 11d in his guide. It looks like from the way they bolted it they were contriving a bouldery, lip encounter on the first roof. I used a big undercling on the right and it feels like easy 11, much easier than, say, Crash Test Blonde at Security Risk...but very, very fun. The 1st pitch of New Test of Men can be linked with the 2nd pitch of this route as one pitch. Don't clip the belay bolts as you go by the anchor at the top of the 1st pitch. A 70M rope will lower to the ground from the top. I think a 60M might work for the lower, too, but I haven't tried it. It makes for a pretty fun, long pitch and a good warm up for the crag. Take 16 draws. Aug 10, 2008

The right branch is the correct way to do this route, the center roof is still a project with the bottom part coming up from the left, still in progress. Aug 21, 2002

12c sounds right. I took the right branch at the roof since there was chalk on it . I hope this was the right way. Aug 20, 2002

This was the first sport route established at this crag in May 1995. I originally rated it .12a. For me, it is much easier than Plan B or Joyride. It was only after watching many good shorter climbers struggle & call it 5.12 that I decided to rate it .12b. Shorter climbers climb the crux differently making more moves. This route was the beginning of a long, wonderful summer of putting up new routes at the crag. Jul 1, 2015

There are size 12 shoes left that are up by Flying Beast...also, there is a draw I took down off of Tell Tale Heart's last bolt. If this is someone's, please e-mail me with what type of draw it is and what it looks like/color and it is yours...I apologize for the inconvenience. Jun 11, 2014

Classic route in my opinion though a bit polished. I think that's to be expected though in Boulder Canyon. The crux moves are pretty devious if you end up getting suckered into moving too high into the corner under the roof. Also a note on the anchor - there are not cold shuts, only chains at the top of this route currently. 8 bolts, plus two for the anchor. The moves at the top are a bit... peculiar. My partner and I both went straight up, not right, by using a bit of dynamic force. There are some holds there to use. Jun 25, 2013

Okay, I take back my comment I put up a year ago about this route not being four stars. It's definitely fun, and the most exciting finish going right on Nevermore makes it even better.... Get after it.... Jul 10, 2012

Yes, the crux clip can be skipped, and the fall is fine. May 22, 2012

Great Route, although I wouldn't give it four stars. It was a bit polished and fairly juggy with the exception of the crux section. It's a hard onsight too without having any beta, the heavily chalked holds split at the crux and can be a bit deceptive. Super fun though.... I don't think you can compare to Discipline, The Shaft, or Joy Ride which are all true 4 star 12b's in the area. Get on them if you haven't!!!! Jul 2, 2011

The crux clip is extremely difficult for me off of that gaston. I'm thinking I'm just going to skip it next time I'm up there. Anyone ever do this? May 31, 2011

Hey, left my Gri-Gri 2 here yesterday... if you have it, please call me 303-359-6831. mountainproject.com/v/lost-… May 28, 2011

"Overhung, powerful, and sustained." Aug 1, 2007

Great route. Benchmark 12a. May 15, 2007

Tricky and powerful. Made me feel like a weakling. So good! Jul 4, 2006

Someone left two locking carabiners on the anchor for this route which I'm assuming was by mistake. If you can identify them, let me know and I'll return them to you. May 10, 2004

Tricky and powerful crux. Very fun moves. Jul 13, 2003

One of the better sport routes in the Canyon. The crux is awkward... kind of like a harder version of the corner on Elanor (the route to the right)... some of the good holds in this section seemed like sucker holds. The 7th bolt, at the end of the crux section, was very difficult to clip. hard 12b. Jun 4, 2003

This is a fantastic route, but was I missing something up by the anchors? I had a hard time finding any holds at all about 5 feet below the anchors (well above both cruxes). I was probably just blind from lactic-acid buildup... Jan 1, 2001

Re: Pete Franzen's comment. I am sure that you found this in the end. However, a good stance for getting to the anchor can be had by cutting right around those rounded bulges, about ten feet below the anchor. You pick up good hands, and by staying cool can quickly step back left, over the bulge and right below the anchor. It turns out to be a good stance for clipping the anchor. I thought that the crux was also a bit circuitous. Cut hard left around the roof, and take scary move back right over the roof for a clip. Still, this is a great route and worth the effort to figure out. Jan 1, 2001

I put a quicklink with some chain up. The anchor is now bomber. Jun 14, 2017

A few things: first, this is a great route, do it. Second, the fixed nut at the roof popped on me. I placed 0.4 equivalent below it, so it wasn't a big deal. I didn't replace the nut. It's unnecessary and detracts from the route in my opinion. Third, the anchors need a bit of work. There are two bomber bolts that are equalized with chain to a single quicklink holding a rap ring. This is the definition of not redundant. I added some cord and a biner, but what is really needed is some chain and another rap ring. I'll try to fix it next time I'm up there, in the mean time, don't steal my cord and biner. Finally, when cleaning be careful. I unclipped my tram and had a really bad encounter with a tree. The best thing to do is have someone follow, but if that isn't possible: clean to below the roof with a tram, lower to the ground with the tram still on, pull the rope so you have a stick clip through the remaining pieces, climb up to the last piece, and then downclimb, cleaning as you go. If anyone has a better way to clean, I'd love to know. Also, I didn't meet any bats. Jun 12, 2017

Really phenomenal, bonafied 4 stars. There are several constrictions of various sizes in the roof crack at the crux that serve excellently as opposition finger locks for the move to the finger jam above the roof, and then a sinker heel hook below the roof keeps your hips in for the lock off move to the jug. Great, great, great. Sep 8, 2016

Really good crack route, particularly for Boulder Canyon. I thought it was right up there with Country Club, etc. in terms of quality. Good rock, good protection, steep, cool temps on a summer evening. What more could you ask for? In terms of difficulty, I thought 12a seemed pretty accurate. It was similar to other 12a's I have been on at Vedauwoo, Platte, BC, etc. That being said, I am generally better at enduro routes than bouldery power routes, such as this one. Gear is straightforward and not strenuous or pumpy, so it basically boils down to hammering through 3 or 4 tough moves. Tough one to onsight, as there is almost too much stuff to work with. Jul 10, 2009

Amazing route. Thunderdome is pretty moderate before and after the crux, but the crux moves felt like solid 12a. My beta seemed different from everyone else's here so the best advice I have is just to get out there and figure it out for yourself. You'll likely have it to your lonesome even on sunny summer weekends. Isn't it great bringing trad gear to a sport crag. Jun 24, 2008

Given how some of the sport routes here gets more than 3 star average, I'm hesitant to give this 3 stars, but I think that's all it deserves. It does not have a crack crux or any sustained hard crack section. I hung & fell at the crux (I was already pumped from a couple sport routes) before figuring out it was a bouldering problem, not a finger crack crux. Still, this feels at most 11+ for somebody with strong arms. At any rate, the protection is pretty straightforward and falls from the crux or above are clean. Jul 6, 2007

Interesting to see the upgrading for this. I did this again today for the second time. The first was about five years ago. I haven't placed much gear recently and would say that if you know what you're doing placing pro, this shouldn't be too epic. It took a long time to figure what gear should go where, like placing a #1.5 Friend in the key jam at the crux and then having to take it out and leave room for my hand. Fortunately the crux is brief and the rest of the climb is littered with jugs. On the other hand, I did Nevermore, Flying Beast and Catwoman on the same visit and they felt much easier overall. Oct 2, 2005

Fabulous route. One of the best trad climbs of its grade in the Boulder area. Powerful crux. I thought Chris Peisker led this on the FA. May 30, 2004

You asked for beta so here's what I did: at the roof, there's a decent thin left hand jam, thumbs up, which allows you to move way out right to stick a good right hand side pull thats well-chalked. I toe-hooked my left foot in the crack to help out on balance while reaching for that right hand, that move is fun, wild, and probably 11+. Next, get the right foot around the corner to the right on a decent hold, then left foot onto a higher sloper horizontall just under the roof, and set up for a BIG reach to a jug, the crux move. I had to dyno to get it, but it's quite good. From there, make sure NOT to put a cam in the hand jam in front of you (as I've mistakenly done) or it will be very hard to climb past it without the jam. Use a nut or go a little higher before pro'ing. Excellent 5.10 or easy 5.11 climbing from there to the top. Sep 25, 2003

Super fun route, but I keep getting spit out of the jams through the roof. Anyone got any good beta? It's rattly fingers there and feels burly for 12a.... Jun 18, 2003

I don't think the block above the roof is much to worry about -- I knocked on it hard (and pulled on it hard), and it seems really wedged in. Now watch me get sued!! Great climb: pumpier than it looks up to the roof, cool moves over the roof (easier if you're not short), another very hard move, then great 5.10 to the top. Now for the redpoint..... Jul 16, 2002

Highly recommended if you're looking for a well-protected 12a trad route. I stuck three bomber Aliens in the roof (yeah, I'm a wuss) and finally went for it after hanging out for a while in the awkward "rest" below the crux. Sep 25, 2001

Haven't climbed it, but I am a fan of the name. Oct 17, 2016

If you're using Bob D's guidebook, this route is mislabeled on the topo (although the description is correct). If you follow the lines on the topo, you will end up on Dynamic Duel like us. Jul 13, 2017

This is up there with bad routes I've done in the canyon. The finishing move is just WEIRD. Jan 12, 2014

1st bolt is total sketch. Finish is really weird, and reeks of rat shit. Jul 11, 2012

The first 3/4 of the route has very delicate, balancey moves. Everything feels insecure like you are just about to smear off. Then a good rest and a huge jug rail to the anchors...which I eloquently flopped across in true beached whale fashion. Not sure how much fun it would be blowing the anchor clip on this climb. Satisfying climb for me though. Jul 29, 2007

Just did this route a couple days ago - tricky, esp. as a warm up! Three of us did the route, 3 different variations for doing the crux. It's a lot harder than it looks from the ground. The Joker, 3 routes to the left, is a better warm up, though that has a couple thoughtful bits as well.... Oh, and we stayed dry in the rain! Jul 25, 2002

As the description says, the original rusted 3/8" stud bolt with rusted, thin SMC hanger has been replaced. The threads were stripped on the stud and the nut glued, but the whole bolt spun with the nut itself when trying to loosen the nut, which prevented being able to remove the nut as well as the bolt itself and thus preventing reusing the same hole. The new bolt location is a little closer to the arete, which makes it actually a touch easier to clip on the lead. Anyway, thanks to the Boulder Climbing Community for providing the bolt. Please support them if you don't already. Sep 3, 2015

The flake has been cleaned. The remaining climb as left should be safe and protect-able. Have at it. As well, the torn and mossy webbing anchor (which was crap) has been replaced with 2 bolts to the left that won't kill the tree and will serve as a top anchor for any of the routes there. Sep 2, 2015

Another fun TR from the Electra Glide anchors is the "Goof Roof", which lies between the two climbs. Not really worth wasting the metal on to establish it as an independent line, but there are super fun roof moves to a delicate slab which eventually joins the upper crack of E.G. at about 10+ to 11-. Aug 12, 2012

June, 2010: Well worth trying on TR, but considerably harder than 9+, me thinks. I was looking and saw little opportunity for pro above the roof, with the exception of behind the tiny little flake, which as mentioned, moves when you pull on it. If you can get past that, there is a marginal slot above that that would take a piece, then the huge flake above that, which also moves when you put weight on it. I'd recommend just leading Electra-Glide then TR this from the tree, and even on TR this is quite a challenging "Yosemite-style" set of moves. Jun 22, 2010

This is a very worthwhile climb and easy to do after Electra Glide. The body positions on this climb are very unique. May 20, 2009

As Tony mentions, most/all of the gear in the upper crux section is placed in contact with a large, long flake or two that sound kind of hollow with the flake expanding possible. I thought one or two placements in the crux might have held a fall but still wouldn't want to test it out... There are rap slings in the tree at the top of the climb to descend. Jul 17, 2005

The flake at the crux, which is your ONLY opportunity for pro has a 1/8 to 3/16 inch crack behind it, but flexes ~1/4 inch. If you were to fall on pro behind it you might turn a loose flake into a death flake (fall on you). There is good protection below the roof that would keep you off of the ground, so make sure you get it and then run it out a little- and be SURE you are solid at the grade. Jul 7, 2005

Note: This is climb #2 in the beta photo. The climb makes a reasonably well protected lead with bomber gear up to the roof and then small nut and microcam placements in the crux section. Jun 27, 2005

It doesn't get more splitter in Boulder Canyon. This lightning-bolt finger crack is a hidden gem... hiding in plain sight apparently, as it's roadside! May 23, 2016

This is an excellent little climb if you have limited time. The approach takes about 30 seconds from the car. May 20, 2009

Did Bruce climb this as a first ascent before 1976?Scott Woodruff did it then with Dan Hare and Rossiter gives them credit for the first ascent. Please correct me if Bruce's ascent preceeds theirs. Sep 20, 2005

Dave Rosenthal and I did this route in July 1977 and called it the "Masterbatorium" (5.9-). Remember it was a fun crack lead. It really seemed ours was the FA, though, because we had to clean the crack top-to- bottom before leading it. Lots of mud, small tree and bushes. Perhaps Scott W. TRed it earlier, but ours was certainly the first true ground up lead ascent. Maybe the name was too impure for the Boulder-scene of that time? Tried doing a Goggle-search and found plenty of examples of the usuage. Oct 15, 2004

Bruce Morris (with David Rosenthal)was credited with the first ascent for awhile but he named it Masurbotorium and somehow that didn't go over well. Any recollections Bruce? Oct 7, 2004

This can also be done as a foot traverse. Delicate. Sep 9, 2002

Insecure feet- this route requires confidence in some near-hands-traverse like moves, but does protect pretty well on nuts, tricams, and tcu's. A good test for the leader aspiring to be "solid" on 5.8 Sep 9, 2002

I fell and hung on all the bolts in 2016, and they're fine. Great route. A tricky opening jump into sustained roof climbing that sticks with you all the way until you rock onto the slab. Nov 29, 2016

I got on this thing today: the first bolt is oldschool-sketch and then as I leaned out to try the crux moves I looked at the 2nd bolt and the nut on the bolt had nearly unwound itself. I tried to get it as tight as possible. Just an FYI, take a look to see if the hanger is well secured before going for the dyno crux, it may be good for your longevity. Dope bouldery opening sequence. The first 3 draws are in place at this time. Aug 19, 2009

I replaced the hanger today. Hopefully this one lasts longer than the last. Jun 29, 2008

There's a number 2 RP placement instead. As the retro-trad wave continues, look for more missing bolts/hangers.... Seriously, the first bolt should be a glue-in since the leverage it gets is intense and virtually any hanger is eventually pried off. That's my guess. I noticed the problem when I did the route way back when and posted accordingly in 2004. May 4, 2008

As of 5/3/08 the hanger for first bolt on the overhang is missing again. What's the deal? May 3, 2008

This climb has one [redeeming] quality - it's steep. otherwise, there is no real line (you could just as well go up and over the roof at any point) and it was blasted to existence from the aqueduct. The fact that it got any press is attributable to the popularity of Moon at the time. There were likely hundreds of FAs at the time that should have been reported in lieu. Sep 13, 2004

This would be a good candidate for a glue-in since it takes a lot of hard pulling from falling at the start. Sep 10, 2004

The externally threaded bolt stud is there, but no hanger or nut. Sep 9, 2004

Is the first bolt still missing? Sep 9, 2004

This is a nice alternative to Van Damage if you don't want to deal with the wide, cupped hand jam in the roof and then all the flared hand jams from there on. Four bolts of in your face underclingin', I counted 13 of 'em! Really fun addition to the crag. I still taped my hands for the top of this one. Have fun. Sep 27, 2015

There are new bolts to the right of the start of The Orb, creating a "direct start" for the route. It links into The Orb at the 3rd bolt. Anyone know what this is? Grade? Sep 21, 2015

Beta: a left knee pad allows you to get a no hands rest before the crux and then use the left knee pad again as you make a left hand move up to the funky 1.5 finger sidepull/pocket. Stellar route. Super-technotronic foot work. Aug 19, 2009

Great route; thanks Peter! Aug 30, 2004

I didn't chip anything when I did the route! Cheers Jesse Jun 4, 2010

I just sent this route and had an absolute blast doing so. It was nice to return to the bottom crux of Sinopia and do a new finish to it. I put a long draw on the first independent bolt on the route, slapped it, clipped it, and continued on. Highly recommended! I swear this route felt just as hard as Sinopia :) Jul 19, 2015

It should be noted that the direct start has the working title of Con Gaz. The top crux is a little tricky. Jul 16, 2013

I did this route in October of 2014 in the cold. Such a wonderful, finicky journey. Absolutely worth the trek up here. Good job, Peter Beal! It's hard for me to rate this, as I'm not a good 'granite rock climber', but it seemed like it could be 5.13a? Jul 19, 2015

My take on the rating. If you are 5'10" or taller, 5.12c/d, unless at 5'10" you have negative ape index. If you are under 5'10", 5.13a. It's that simple, IMHO. Great moves, 4 stars out of 5! Mar 3, 2015

I agree that it is definitely harder than it looks, but still not 13a. Fun route, though. Oct 22, 2012

And the direct left start on the Z-seams would be "Con Gaz," or at least that's what we were calling it, but we never could do it. V-double-digit something or other, open project, start with the first bolt stick-clipped, have at it, don't trash your right shoulder.... Sep 20, 2012

That is Sin Gaz. 12c-ish? Kind of fun but not as good as Sinopia. Sep 20, 2012

There is also a line that shares the first crux and then, from the jug, goes right through another crux and up to the slab. Sep 19, 2012

We were up here today...anyone know what the thin recently bolted face start to the immediate left of the Sinopia start is? It is quite thin, sharp and devious.... Mar 31, 2012

Great route for a summer morning. The trick for me was figuring out the move off the sloping shelf past the 5th bolt. There are several ways to do this lunge move, but only one worked for me. A second crux past 6th bolt was powerful but more obvious. Still more 5.12 above. This climb has a total of four 5.12 section in a row. The 5.11d dihedral start can feel pretty burly too. Jan 11, 2012

I had left draws and a cam on Sinopia at the end of December '07, I noticed recently that they are gone and different draws in place. If anyone has my gear, I would love to get it back. Cheers May 2, 2008

Felt great to clip the anchors on this bad boy and had so much fun working on it. What a great addition to the cliff. Make sure to tape both hands to the wrists and a knee pad for the right is helpful. I put a long draw on the sixth bolt to make it a more friendly clip. Enjoy and yes, this is full on jamming. Aug 27, 2015

Classic! You could also have a special shirt sewn-up with a foam back, just in case your belayer is asleep at the wheel. But in all seriousness, having seen people take the falls at the hard moves, you end up stopping well short of the back of the gully...as long as you don't skip any clips. Oct 27, 2011

Hilarious. I thought about bolting this line way back but felt it was much too close to the gully. Well done. Oct 27, 2011

What a fun little route with good protection deep in the crack! Must be pretty skinny to fit or else you are climbing on the outside! Also, don't climb this when it's icy and there is snow everywhere ;) Feb 25, 2015

This is definitely a squeeze chimney; depending on your size and technique, it may be more of an offwidth. I did it facing both directions and found one way to be more difficult. May 15, 2012

Quick and dirty. Fun if you're soloing in the area or need an easy intro to squeeze chimneys, otherwise not really worth a trip. Jul 4, 2010

I find myself liking chimneys and offwidths recently, and my unplanned trip up this was enjoyable. I think it's a great experience, and good practice for those squeeze slots up on the bigger walls. Jun 27, 2007

Tricky onsight. If you can find the hidden hold, cruiser. Jul 7, 2013

Interesting route. My first attempt it felt really, really hard, but I was paying too much attention to the 2nd bolt above the roof and trying to use it as a clue on which way to go over the roof. Big mistake. I was trying to figure out what was going on, as Bob/Greg's routes aren't generally stiff for the grade. I was pretty baffled. second time, just following the climbing, went much easier. If it feels really hard, take a step back and try something different - you are likely in left field.... The crack/jug under Bob's foot in the photo is caked in some sort of shit and pretty much unusable (for a hold and for gear as well). You can get a pretty good 0.75 Camalot out right though. The climbing above and below the roof was pretty good. Technical, delicate, and fun. Jul 14, 2013

OK, but far from the best at Sherwood, IMHO. Jun 18, 2012

Excellent climbing. For what it's worth, even I was able to TR this route without falling. That may have been an illusion. Then, later in the day, I shot 1 under par at West Woods golf course from the tips. Anybody for golf? Jul 21, 2008

The knifeblade has been removed due to its sheer lack of protection. My partner who led this sketchy climb was able to weight it, but when he did it levered. I followed, inspected it, and saw it had little or no potential of holding another's weight or fall. Someone with the proper experience may consider replacing the knifeblade it he/she desires to do this climb. With all the other great trad lines in Boulder Canyon, I wonder why one would. Aug 1, 2005

Fun route. Has cleaned up nice. Good crag in the summer, till 2:00. Jul 7, 2013

This route is very good. The climbing from the 2nd to 6th bolt is very continuous with a variety of moves -- good holds with bad feet followed by bad holds with good feet. The rock is surprisingly clean -- as clean as anything at Sherwood Forest a whole 2 min away. I'd give it 2.5 stars. Getting the feet situated over the roof is the crux. Bob's rating is certainly in the ballpark. Jul 16, 2008

FWIW, I recommend belaying a pitch of climbing up to the base of this route. The approach bit is slippery and exposed. A fall here would suck. Jul 1, 2014

The approach to Goofy Spire is short and a bit ugly, but the crack in the right-side corner of the dihedral (just left of center in the picture) climbs quite nicely up to the little oval-shaped roof. A somewhat awkward move gets you around the right side of the roof, which may be the crux. Jun 29, 2014

Jason, did you name it? We can adjust the name to the earliest known ascent. Aug 10, 2015

I free soloed this line in 2005, but I'm sure it had been done decades before that. Aug 9, 2015

Not as good a route as the East Face route but OK as a toprope. After trying a direct vertical start up the face with much lichen and minimal feet, which felt at least 5.11, we climbed up the chossy inset just right of the face (5.5?) then traversed left onto the face like George mentioned. Decent climbing up from there (5.7 or higher, depending on where you traverse out onto the face). Jun 29, 2014

I may be a glutton for the obscure, but I think this is my favorite moderate at Happy Hour. Relative to other climbs at Happy Hour, the climbing in continuous, there are interesting features, and there is an exciting 20ft+ runout on 5.7 terrain to keep things exciting. The roof moves (attacked directly) are cryptic at first, adding to the tasty flavor of this climb. Jun 1, 2015

Climbed up the flake on the right of the normal route to add some excitement to the climb. Oct 1, 2011

Ditto on the runout. Not much happening after the roof. Feet are pretty decent, hands are ok. Wouldn't recommend falling on the second half. Just push on through and the finish tapers off. Moves are 5.7, but the commitment is much higher. Aug 23, 2009

Can lead on gear, but be prepared to run it out after you pull the roof. Crack above the roof is flared and a solid 20 feet before you get another piece in. May 13, 2009

I also think this is a good lead. I think the bottom part is pretty sustained for 5.7. Not a great climb for the blossoming 5.7 leader. Jun 26, 2008

Though listed as a TR, this is a pretty good lead as well. The roof (crux) protects well but be prepared to run it out about 10-15' on good holds after passing the roof. The next good pro is a #5 Stopper in a crack out to the right where the next higher roof starts. Standard rack works well; nothing too big or super small needed. May 28, 2005

The move at the bottom is hard and is about a body length long. It does not look like good protection at the crux. I top roped the climb. The rest of the climb is much easier. Aug 27, 2014

This feels a little harder than 5.7, and there really is no pro on the upper section. Jan 15, 2014

Cool little route, instead of going straight to the top with no pro we hung a right on the ledge, through a bush and then up a crack with some cool moves. Mar 21, 2006

This line is prett cool. I really enjoyed the traverse onto the face above the roof, and the crux is exciting. A tad run out when doing the traverse, but everything is there. I also started left of the right-facing corner mentioned above. It looked too dirty and lacking in pro to really be enjoyable. I suppose either way is good though. Finger-sized cams worked well here. Oct 7, 2017

This is a fine climb. I climb this every visit. Climbs much better and bigger than it looks, which is good because admittedly it looks like hardly anything. Tony is right, the line on the photo is incorrect. The upper part takes the nice crack above the roof, just as Tony says. Down low I've always started a tad left of the start marked on the photo, directly up to the left side of the roof. Moving right, onto the lip of the roof is really fun, and the crack above is brief but elegant. Years ago, while soloing this, I was near the top, pulling up the crack, when a toproper, out of sight, but only a few feet above, threw his rope off; no big deal except for the bloodcurdling scream, which I imagine was intended to sound like "R-O-O-O-P-E," right in my ear. Climbers on Cob Rock must have looked over in surprise. I nearly jumped off in fright. Jun 26, 2007

Watch out for the big pile of animal dropping right below the roof. This climb is a little on the dirty side from top ropers kicking dirt down on it. This route is worth doing, if it is the only route that has not been seiged by the TR gangs. Aug 2, 2003

Reachy. Good TR. Jul 19, 2011

Pretty disappointing to hear the horn was added. Totally changes the route and gives you a huge rest in the midst of a nice sequence. I'll try it next time without the modification. Nov 17, 2009

I'm surprised to hear that horn was added. A great project for next time. Be prepared to place gear this is not a sport route. Jun 14, 2009

I have no idea what this horn is that everyone is talking about. I found the last few moves to be the crux, but then I got into the layback and it went really easily. You can sew up the last layback with a blue and yellow tcu if you like. A stopper would also work there. May 15, 2008

Thought this was a wee bit harder than easy 5.10 to onsight, but seemed pretty easy a second time on TR once you knew the holds. I placed some mid-sized nuts down low and a #6 near the top...probably about a green Alien size pod. The horn did make it a lot easier. Mar 15, 2008

A #7 BD stopper fits quite nicely in a small crack above the horn to provide some protection above the second bolt. Jan 10, 2004

This route has seem some alteration. I climbed this route for the first time in 1998. I remember the finish through the layback to be committing. It was an exciting route and my favorite on Happy Hour. I warm up here on the way to Security Risk a lot. I went back in 2000 or 2001 I cannot remember and someone had carved a small horn in the rock before the finishing layback moves. I could now throw a sling around the horn and protect the moves. It looked like someone brought a grinder up there and ground the horn down. This should be placed on the modified route list. Sep 9, 2003

I thought above the second bolt was the crux. There is a bomber jug out right, but I couldn't really reach it, so slapped sloper and pulled hard. A green/yellow offset Alien provides comfort in the pod area. Committing layback to finish. Sep 26, 2002

From the anchors you can also TR the right hand side of the arete directly to the left of this. This is essentially the outter edge of dimentia. It goes solid 5.11 with a single move to the right escaping the arete before returning to it just after. Climb from the top of the arete to the bolts. There would be no protection on lead. Without this escape move, the route might be 5.11+. May 14, 2002

There most certainly is the 2 bolt anchor just up and above the top-out of the climb, below the actual top of the cliff. This route is quite nice, as most of the others at Happy Hour. Reaching the bolt is a bit of a stretch as indicated but the climbing can be eased by backing down and then getting just below and left of the bolt and following this line, I would say perhaps 10a this way 10b straight up and right of the bolt, as there is a funky foot match and small crimps to pull on. 2 stars. Nov 14, 2001

I thought I did this climb based on the Mark Rolofson topo, but I may have climbed a short crack even further right. I did not have a dihedral for stemming, but the rating felt about right. Aug 27, 2014

I liked the moves on this climb, fun stemming and cool moves, would get three stars if it was 50 feet longer. Nov 14, 2005

There's now a nut keeping the unreachable tricam and the fixed cam company near the top of the open book. It wiggles ever so slightly but definitely wasn't coming out after our whole group TR'd the route. Brian, seems like each person in my group did it a bit differently. I faced right in the lower part of the book (left hand in finger crack, right hand using right arete), then turned around and did a left foot high step and cranked a really hard left sidepull to stand up on it. Definitely a power move after using both rattly fingers in the crack at various times while unclipping directionals on TR. Aug 7, 2017

I've found 2 different options to get through the crux. The one I see most people do is to do a very thin, wide stem move across the book and grab the horn with your left hand. The other is to climb the finger crack a bit higher until your left foot can stem across to that same horn. Although the finger crack option is harder, I feel it is the more quality way to climb the route and makes it one of the hardest 10a's I've ever tried. Anybody else have an opinion on this? May 2, 2017

TR'd this but wouldn't do it again. The rope drops into a crack and runs over a bit of a ledge Sep 22, 2016

Amazing route! I was climbing Dementia today and was unable to retrieve my BD #0.3 cam from the top of crux. If anyone frees it or finds it, I would gladly offer a 24-pack of beer of your choosing if I could get that essential piece of my rack returned. I would be so grateful! May 14, 2013

I agree with Ron Olsen, it felt easier than Cosmosis. Mar 15, 2013

^^^ I ate your yellow Metolius for breakfast!!! Sep 29, 2012

I tried getting your yellow Metolius out but to no avail, sorry, my friend. May 28, 2012

My #2 Mastercam walked itself into oblivion in the middle of the finger crack. If you can get it out, I owe you a 6 pack. Thanks! May 26, 2012

A great line but a proper grunt. Oct 14, 2011

Finally lead this climb after cleaning it about 4 months ago and so glad I did. All I have to say is don't get splitter vision like me, cuz it gets way steep. Fortunately I looked around in time to get some good stemming in while placing the 0.3? before gunning it to the top. Nov 21, 2010

At 6'4", my partner had no trouble stemming to a great left foothold while in the V slot. At 5'1", I obviously couldn't reach it unless I had been wearing 9" spiked heels with sticky rubber. Chimney technique is the way to go if you're on the short side like me. Oct 11, 2010

This climb is pretty strenuous going up through the V slot unless you figure out the beta better than I did. I just kinda jumped for the hold right at the roof, because I was sick of the finger locks. It was pretty sustained. One of the more "true" 5.10a's in the canyon. The gear is bomber throughout, and there is a #0.3 C4 jammed in right below what I thought was the crux. Apr 21, 2009

One of the best climbs at the crag. I'm 5'9"; the v slot isn't a problem if you chimney up with right hand in the crack, left hand flat on the wall at your back by the arete and feet smearing on the features. It's a cool section. Sep 23, 2007

You go with that pink tricam, Kevin! A man after my own heart. (There aren't many of us left. Let's form a support group!) From the route description: "...A traverse out the top leads to chain anchors. Long runners to avoid rope drag if toproping." I would think twice about toproping Dementia from the chains. The angles and swing potential for the climber once in the 'business' would be...interesting. If toproping it, build a solid directional after exiting the roof or, better yet, just get ya some small gear and go for it. It's remarkably safe as a lead. Jun 16, 2007

This route is very memorable...short but sweet! I found the smallest tricams to be perfect placements in the cruxy section. Oct 15, 2006

Fun route...attempted with H. McIntyre on 5/14/06 but backed off the crux because the smallest cam I had was a 0.5 Camalot. I'd recommend red and yellow Aliens or equivalent size for the finger crack. Would have preferred to use stoppers, but I didn't think the geometry of the crack looked all that good for stopper placements. Or, maybe I'm just chicken. May 18, 2006

Was on the sharp end of this stellar route today, and agree with Ron and others, in that those with a long inseam (I'm 5'11") will not have to go to the top of the crack for a stem way left. This stem is a long/wide one, and is 3/4 the way up the crack, involving a short smear up the face with close to perfect finger/hand jams on great rock. The sequence above the open book is also excellent... Thoughtful, sustained moves throughout... Protects well with medium to large stoppers, small cams up to and including a #2 Camalot. Sep 1, 2004

I used two #2 Metolius cams at the crux. You can equilize a few nuts at the last ledge stance (medium to small I think). I remember using a #3 Metolius after the crux. I got the stem move (5'11"), You can reach way out and do a palm smear, then swing your left leg out to stem. I also found good footholds on the overhanging (right) side of the book. I onsighted this but fell on Cosmosis, I guess they're both around 10a, Cosmosis is just much more sustained. This was one of my first 10a trad leads, super cool route. Kind of like Yosemite but shorter. Aug 21, 2004

Delightful. The grade is right on for the crux, which is the open book slightly overhung tasty fingers bit. It's solid fingers and placements makes it the perfect first 10 lead. Way to grunt sal! There is a fixed cam just atop the crux which looks a little worn but still good. Next time, rock, paper, scissors is mine to win. Nov 12, 2003

I felt that this route was very true to its grade. I have lead many bolted 10s and 11s, however this was my first ever 5.10 trad lead. I enjoyed the route very much. The slightly overhanging open book is killer, and the finger locks are bomber. For future climbers who are just pushing into 10s on gear, I recommend keeping your pro organized and ready to plug in, when in the open book. I chose to keep a yellow Alien in my mouth, so that I would not have to futz with finding gear on my belt. Overall, the route was killer, I had a great time, and it was even November. Nov 11, 2003

One of the best routes at Happy Hour. Interesting, sustained climbing from bottom to top. The difficulty of the crux is height-dependent: I'm tall enough (6' 1") to be able to do it with a wide stem, but shorter climbers have to do a harder sequence. For me, the crux is more like 5.9 than 5.10a, but I have seen shorter climbers who can do other Boulder Canyon 5.9s struggle with the crux. For sure, Dementia is easier than Cosmosis, so perhaps the 10a rating is a bit inflated. Easier than Cosmosis, and easier if you're tall. Sep 25, 2003

This route is not as good as the hype...pretty much a ledge walk all the way up the thing. One hard move at the top of the flared grove and it's over. A good first 10 lead. Sep 25, 2003

It is a good climb, a fun climb, but there are harder 5.9s in the canyon. Feb 4, 2003

A very impressive route and a solid 10a for sure. Nuts protect the crux as well as TCU's so pop em' in there and crank. A really good character building lead for the ambitious 5.10 leaders in the group, I would say the best route at Happy Hour and a very stiff lead, enjoyed it a lot ! 5 stars on a 3 star rating. Nov 14, 2001

That's funny, Mark! Isn't this the ONLY 5.10 at Happy Hour?? OK, I guess Cheers is 10a too. But I count only 2 5.10's! Aug 13, 2001

Solid 10a through the crux and a fantastic climb. Two bombproof palcements through the crux (a blue and yellow TCU) inspires much confidence. Probably the best route at Happy Hour for its grade. Jun 28, 2001

Maybe if I had thinner fingers this would have been 10a. Couldn't jam my digits well past the shallow hand pod. Gear I used: two blue aliens, two green Aliens, red and yellow C3, blue DMM offset nut and BD 2. This sewed it up well. Mar 12, 2017

I too think this climb is at least 10a in difficulty. The hard moves are at the bottom and only a body length long. The pro is good at the crux. Starting to the left is possible as Leo Paik mentions. Aug 22, 2014

It seemed as if the path of least resistance is, once you get pro to start, to be just left of the dihedral for a couple moves utilizing some small footholds on that little face to get started. Then, you can reach around into the dihedral. Going straight up in the dihedral to start seemed forced. Nov 1, 2013

I think this route is may be .10b if you have very thin fingers. I couldn't make the moves through the thin section, couldn't even get a fingertip lock with my fat fingers (and it doesn't help that the rock is absolutely polished with no real footholds to start), so I can't rate this; my friend who climbs solid 5.11 said he felt this was .10d/.11a. Sep 19, 2012

There's a very large boulder at the top and a little to the left for the anchor that looks solid, don't use it. I originally slung it with a runner. Then looked a little closer and gave it a little nudge, it moved, pushing it a little harder might have brought it down. Jun 20, 2006

This is way stiff at 5.9+ in my opinion. I thought [Dementia] (5.10a) was easier than this climb. The crux is right off the ground with poor feet and bad hands. I wanted so bad to get a good finger lock in the crack but just couldn't fit my digits in there. The pro is very good with small stoppers, blue and green Aliens. Be careful with your pro placements as I came within a foot or two of decking when I missed a clip. With that said, it seems like a very balancy climb that is much more about finesse and sequence than power. A good problem but more in the 5.10 range. Nov 14, 2005

Super great climb, I found the crux much harder than Twofers. Just my two cents. Feb 17, 2017

As much fun as Dementia & Nightcap are, think I'd say my fave at Happy Hour! Jun 19, 2015

Awesome climb! The crux gets your heart pumping but has great hand holds, small holds and friction for feet. A member of our party had to bail off lead just past the crux as to avoid being late for work this morning. A small nut and nonlocker, tagged blue/purple, were left behind. I will be headed back tomorrow (Monday) after work to retrieve them, but if anyone is up there today...I would greatly appreciate them returned, in exchange for a couple beers on me after your climb. Nine-1-9-four26-seven1sevenfive. Climb on! Jul 7, 2013

Good route. Bad pro at the start, and good climbing doesn't begin until nearly half-way up the route! Twofers is better. Aug 14, 2011

I'm a super noob as far as trad leading is concerned and have probably lead a dozen routes... and I say Beauty!... very appropriately named. I grinned like a retard when I got to the top. This is one of the most sustained routes (<5.8). I've climbed at Happy Hour about 20 feet below the chains there was the option of going left or right. I attempted going right, placed a cam, clucked like a chicken, retrieved my cam, descended, and went left which I thought was easier... assuming I am not high, any comments on what this variation is rated? I used 8 pieces total... 2 small Aliens, cam and hexes. Twofers was my first 5.8 lead on trad a couple weeks ago. If I were to compare I'd say this one was longer and more sustained with 2-3 interesting moves. Steve's story was a great way to get started on this route. Oct 4, 2009

My third 5.8 trad lead. I agree it was a great beginner route, as state above, for this grade. Jul 31, 2008

Egads, Steve! Now you've gone and signed your name to that one. Sep 22, 2007

Last time I climbed this was with a semi-beginner. I think I'll leave off his name. He led it, belayed, then took in the rope. So far so good. At this point, as per usual, I wanted to put my climbing shoes on. I stepped back to grab them, but the rope was already tight. And stayed tight. I yelled, ”slack!“ over and over, but the creek was high, he was way out of sight above, and he could not hear. In fact, he just pulled harder. So I ended up in midair, upside down, just off the ground; swinging like a mad spider, pawing the ground like a dog running on a hardwood floor and panting and laughing like a mad drunk, and eventually grabbed one shoe. I righted myself, put it on hanging with my feet just inches off the ground, then commenced battle again. A crucial couple of inches had since been pulled in, so I could barely reach the ground anymore. Finally, I found a handy stick to prod the shoe closer, and lift it off the ground so I could grab it. Hmmmm. Rereading this, I think perhaps I should leave my name off too. Jun 26, 2007

Lot of fun. Don't miss it if at the crag. Jun 22, 2005

Just led this one on saturday. very good route with lots of pro. The crux is definately turning a corner using hand jams, so make sure you can jam well. Plenty of pro, bring big cams 2,3,4 or big hexs for upper portion of the route. Dec 6, 2004

Fun climb. I think it's definitely a good first 5.8 lead as it isn't all that sustained and has plenty of good rest stances to get in solid pro. Oct 21, 2003

TRed this one yesterday and had a dandy time. As has been mentioned, a 50m rope is just long enough for the climb, which ever side of the tooth you start on. The anchors are pretty exposed, though and I rigged a bellay to get out there. Fantastic climb, 3-stars all the way. I didn't see too manyhand jam opportunities but there was a nice mix techniques from stemming to laybacks. The crux is about half way up with a thin finger crack/dihedral stem to a fat undercling to another layback.Anyway, gorgeous climb on quality rock! Sep 10, 2003

I agree with the three star rating. This is a fun pitch, and a great lead. The crux (for me) was a high-step from a stance at an undercling about halfway up. The gear is fantastic all the way up. ...and as much as I hate to disagree with Myke, I've belayed topropers on this climb with a 50m cord, and it works just fine. Feb 27, 2002

I agree that this route is a good route to hand jam in but perhaps not to be leading at first, it is easy but not that easy, take one of the routes to the left like Twofers and lead this for practice, but indeed this route has nice hand jams. I would give it 3 stars where you only gave it 2, it is worth 3. Nov 14, 2001

This is a good route for beginners to learn to hand-jam in. Sep 20, 2001

Many people mention stemming the crux. I did not stem, and it still felt 5.7 for difficulty. There is good pro the whole way and interesting climbing. Aug 22, 2014

As already stated, this route is short, but definitely worth while. I felt the crux was harder than the given rating of 5.7 with small/tricky protection. That being said, the moves are all there and was a fun climb. Apr 26, 2012

Pretty short... I thought the moves felt harder than on Malign, but then I'm not good at stemming / thin cracks. I agree with the 5.7 rating although I felt it was harder than the other Happy Hour 5.7s I've led. Oct 4, 2009

Toproped this route with my 7 year old daughter and my friend Monique who is mostly an indoor climber. We all had a good time. This is a good route to toprope since their are plenty of anchoring locations at the top and the route is almost entirely vertical except for the very bottom. It is also a good climb for enthusiastic but non-hard-core kids; not too much of an approach, a fairly short route and a relatively nice place to hang out at the bottom. Jul 12, 2009

Protection was good the whole way. The option for easy stemming through the crux makes this a 5.7. Pretty short, but worth the quick go. Jul 31, 2008

The protection gets a little thin (small nuts) a few moves into the dihedral, but I was still able to put about 12 pieces into this route, and they all seemed quite solid. This thing eats medium cams--I used a #0.75, 2-#1, 2-#2, a #3, and a #3.5 Camalots, plus a couple of stoppers (#4, #9, and #13, I think). Don't be worried about the pro. The stems are fun, but the good part of the route is so short that I'm not really sure it's worth it. Happy Hour has a lot of better climbs. Jan 20, 2003

This is a very fun warm-up. The pro is decent, and the finger crack is awesome. For such a short pitch, this packs in a good time. Bomber finger locks and just a tiny bit heady for 5.7. Get after it! Oct 7, 2017

On lead, if you stick strictly to the initial corner and the upper finger crack, it turns into quite the challenging route. Flared finger section that's a bit difficult to protect before the awesome last 10 feet of finger crack. Jul 28, 2017

All about that finger crack. There were also super straightforward gear placements for an anchor when you gain the ledge, so it would be pretty good for setting up a toprope. Definitely give it a higher grade if starting in the corner immediately next to the tree, as well as if you stay with the finger crack that takes you to the same ledge as the 5.5 route to the left. May 22, 2015

Top half of climb is 3 stars, Great finger crack . Fun climb. The start was a little awkward but not difficult. I'd agree with 5.7+ if you use just the crack on the upper part. Jul 6, 2014

I gave this three stars, because the climbing is really great with a lot of fun moves, especially for such a moderate grade. Nov 19, 2011

Taken direct, this has a well-protected UK 5a move in the top crack, so I don't understand the 5.7 rating. Oct 14, 2011

Sweet finger locks at the top. I would have given 3 stars if it were longer.... Mar 15, 2010

I just did this as my first 5.7 lead. I found it relatively straight-forward to sew up the finger-crack on the upper part of the pitch with finger-sized cams (e.g., blue to yellow Aliens). If you have small-to-medium sized hands, you can get in some great finger locks that will get you through the smeary crux with limited fretting. Sep 30, 2006

Cool crux, it's lots of fun if you only use the finger crack and don't wimp out and go left. There is a fixed stopper at the crux as of 3/18/06. I would say only using the finger crack by itself could go at 5.8. Mar 21, 2006

If you lead this, make sure to have plenty of small gear for the thin fingers crack up above. Small nuts and Aliens work well. Some good finger locks in the crack, but the feet are mostly smears at the crux (a small bulge) - harder than it looks from below, but 5.7 feels about right. May 28, 2005

This route can also be led with a standard rack, up to a #3.5 Camalot. The crack that I went up, moving left to right diagonally as you look up was flaring, but it did take two cams. Leading this is certainly an option before it gets covered in top ropes, although the flaring cracks made the pro less than ideal. Not just for top roping! Sep 23, 2002

There are several variations to this line that possibly make it even better. 1) Start as for Rush Hour and move right around the small roof to join the original line: awkward but interesting and well-protected 5.9+/5.10-. 2) After the normal crux bulge, continue straight up a short thin corner instead of angling left (short tricky crux, well-protected with small wires). This takes you almost to the top of Dementia's corner. Now head up and a little left through steep ground to rejoin the usual route just below the top. Combining variations 1 and 2 with the usual crux makes for a very direct and sustained line, and certainly one of the best low 5.10 pitches in the canyon. 3) Dave Goldstein showed me a fun linkup of Last Call to Dementia: Climb through the normal crux of Last Call, step up and place a 4 (or maybe 3.5) cam in a horizontal, then traverse right (fun face climbing) to the bottom of Dementia's crux corner. Continue to the top. Another great low 5.10 pitch. Nov 12, 2017

I also found this to be noticeably more difficult than Dementia, some of the moves are fairly awkward. No move is harder than 5.9, but very few are any easier. Super sustained at the grade.... So call it 9+. Apr 4, 2016

There are bolts above this climb, probably for Rush Hour, and they look safer to reach from above than the Dementia anchors which are at about the same level. I solo down climbed to the anchor, so I know it is possible. The crux on this is difficult but very short. Aug 29, 2014

If your second wants to climb it, I'd recommend belaying from the top rather than toproping since the rock is a little sharp in places. There are two bolts with rap rings at the top. Also, don't forget to place gear to keep the rope out of the crack. Aug 21, 2014

I actually thought this was considerably easier than Dementia. Hard for a 5.9, as you have to place gear while hanging out on the overhanging section, but the hold there is good, and a medium sized slotted nut is quick to place with the left hand. One awkward move in the middle brings you to easier climbing. Walk off is recommended. I think this is the most sustained and best 5.9 at this crag, and may be the best climb at the cliff, it's a toss-up between this and Twofer's for me. I like the sand-bag potential for Twofer's better ;-) . Mar 23, 2009

If Dementia is 5.10a, then this is .10b. More physically-intensive then Dementia for sure. Small stoppers and/or big RPs help protect the thin crack before the 2nd roof. It is possible to traverse right at the top and lower off the Dementia anchors with a 60m rope. However, if you do this make sure to use a long sling on any gear placed after the second roof. Great route! Oct 30, 2006

Remember those 5.9 overhangs in the gym that you thought didn't exist outside? There is nothing slight about the overhang IMHO. A fantastic climb at the grade with plentiful pro; albeit a little tricky to place going around the roof. This was an awesome climb, I can't wait to do it again! Jan 2, 2006

Along with Dementia, the best route on Happy Hour. Sustained, interesting climbing throughout with a burly layback crux past the roof. Set up a gear anchor to belay, then traverse right and rap from the bolts atop Cheers (aka Thrill of the Chaise) to get down. Oct 25, 2003

This route is the best on the cliff...really spectacular and 10 times better than Dementia. The crux is definitely getting over the chimney roof, then there is some more hard laybacking up above. This climb is probably a sandbag, but the protection is excellent. Sep 25, 2003

I thought this route was almost as good as Dementia (which I think is the best pitch in the canyon) and as good as any other route at Happy Hour. Felt stiff for 5.9 (pumpy!) but the gear is pretty good, albeit a little awkward in places. Surprising this route is star-less in Rossiter's guide. The anchor on top can be set with #1 to #4 Camalots; I used a #1, #3 and #3.5. Jun 26, 2003

Really fun, and kinda hard at it's grade for this cliff. May 22, 2002

Does anyone know what the bolted line (4-5 bolts) is to the left? I liked it better, but that line felt harder than 11a. 11+? Apr 30, 2015

The bolts and anchor have been replaced. Thanks to the Boulder Climbing Community for supplying the hardware. Consider donating to them if you don't already. Apr 12, 2015

Prod, Essentially, yes. The second crux is right above the 2 bolts. I believe that someone added one because the first was sketchy, but didn't finish the job. Or maybe they intentionally wanted a bail point between the thinner crux (scarier). Mar 9, 2015

Sort of a 1 move wonder. I am pretty sure we were on route. Here is what we encountered. Clip bolt at top of tooth for Grins. Make interesting transition move to 2nd bolt. Keep heading up, 10' to 2 bolts? but not the anchor. Then up to the anchor? Sound right to anyone? Prod. Apr 13, 2012

Good route. As others have said, the pro at the crux can be a little wide. Deep in the back of the crack near the top is a tipped out #3, so a #4 would probably work. Having nothing quite that wide, I placed a 0.3 in the sidepull and just decided not to fall. This was a friend's first ever outdoor climb, and it seemed like a good fit for him. Jul 24, 2017

A #4 Camalot works great. You could place something bigger, but it is really not necessary. Jan 15, 2014

Also, I think a number 4 works just fine in the crux. You can even bring up another if you want to protect the final 4th class moves to the anchor. Jan 3, 2012

The climbing on this route is all pretty straightforward, but I thought the crux was a little spicy and I took my time with it. Nov 19, 2011

You can easily set up a TR from the tree at the top of this climb. I would suggest hiking up the left side to set up the TR and hiking back down vs. rapping since the top is rather blocky and would make for a slow and careful rap. Great exposure to rock for beginners. Apr 29, 2010

You can really sew this up with medium to big gear--very reassuring for beginning leaders. Scott mentioned his #4 Camalot wasn't big enough, but I found a place to make it work...and even climbed higher and scooted it up, so I guess I found two spots for it. :) Sep 13, 2009

Great route...just a note that I found that a #4 BD wasn't big enough for the crux (if you want it). Next time I'll probably at least bring a #4.5. You can avoid the big piece by placing a cam up in the crux sidepull. Aug 23, 2009

Great route for beginners. Jul 6, 2007

I was wondering how the OW would go. Turns out, it goes quite nicely if you reach in and find the crimp rail on the left bottom half. The route seemed at most 5.6 except for maybe one or two spots. Aug 7, 2017

Sweet route. Climb it with only a set of nuts. There are many good places to put passive gear in. Mar 8, 2016

Good route for new trad leaders. Plentiful gear, and if you bring large passive stuff, you can sink it everywhere. Fun! Jun 27, 2015

While leading this for the first time, I thought about slinging the chockstone in the off-width part. Wasn't quite able to get it, so I moved on without, but when I moved above it and stood on the chockstone, it moved under my weight very slightly. So it may not be a trustworthy feature for pro. Aug 29, 2013

I found this route lots of fun. I'm a new trad leader, and found it easy to protect, with good moves, and nice and long. Don't be fooled by D'Antonio's single star. This is good! For pro, bring single and double-length slings, as there are quite a few good spots for them during the climb, as well as at the top for a bomber anchor. If you're looking for something a bit spicier, you can traverse climber's left about 15 meters and do an easy down-climb to the chains above Thrill of the Chase. Good TR. Use slings to protect the traverse. Jul 19, 2011

I don't recommend using the trees near the top for an anchor. Too sketchy IMHO. The OW was the mental crux for me because of the lack of pro. Yes, there is good pro below and above, but it sure seemed run out to me. Anyone else? I used my cordalette and set a fine anchor at the top of Nightcap. Nov 19, 2006

Not sure about the "sustained" comment. Sure, many of the moves are 5.7, but there are also good rests after every 3-4 (maybe 5) moves (or maybe I'm just lazier/better at finding rests than many) ;^) There's a short OW about half way up. There's good gear below this, and a double length sling can be used to sling a chockstone near the end of the OW, but it's a bit strenuous to get in place. All-in-all a good, well-protected climb, if you're creative. Aug 15, 2006

This was one of my first 5.7 leads and is quite momorable. Fun variations of moves keep things interesting and the gear is usually quite abundant. I was able to place anything from a blue TCU to a 3.5 Camalot, but since the route is a bit on the long side for Happy Hour, pack an adequate amount of pro. Right before the top you will see two finger-ish cracks: keep to the left one to avoid crossing ropes with anyone on Nightcap. Also, the belay ledge is quite roomy enough for two or three, should you need to share it. Oct 19, 2005

This route is a lot more fun than it looks from below. Nice variety, good length, takes good pro but requires some thoughtful footwork to get comfortable stances. A great lead for the grade if at the crag. imho, grins has a harder crux. Jun 22, 2005

This is a solid and sustained 5.7. The key is it is sustained. I had a friend who climbs 5.7 but rarely makes 5.8 that went up it quick and easy. I'll use that as a good [gauge] on the rating. Lots of varied moves make it fun. It is quite long for a Happy Hour climb. Previous posting noted setting the anchor in the block above Nightcap. Instead I went left at that block and set the anchor off the tree (looks dead at first glance but is very much alive) and a few pieces to back it up. You can see the plaque for Mike from the anchor stance, and comfortably escape off to the top whey you want to pull the anchor later. Rope then comes down directly between Malign and Nightcap. At the anchor I was a little ways past half rope. Pulling all my pro on the belay down to let the rope hang straight instead of curving right in the route freed up enough rope to make it back to the ground. As you then climb to the right near the top, flick the rope over the rock and you're fine. I also TR'd Nightcap off this anchor and it was fine. Lots of excellent opportunities for Pro on this route. A 5.7 lead will tend to put in a lot of pro since it is sustained 5.7, but be careful of the resultant rope drag due to all that pro and the right wandering nature of the route. DON'T use the chains above "Thrill of the Chase" for this route. They are way to far left. You'll be looking at a huge swing and some good non-equalized side loading on the chains. Jun 18, 2005

An interesting and varied climb. My wife thought it was tricky and didn't like it, but its puzzling nature is what makes it fun. A tallented newby climber cruised up this route with not much problem and came down shaking with terror. "That's _really_ high up there!" she commented. Amen. If you rig a TR anchor from the small ledge at the top of Night Cap, you'll be looking at a long swing around some sharp edges. Dropping an anchor over the ledge about 8' to climber's right of Night Cap is probably optimal. From the ground, I can see a set of chains that might work, but I'll be damned if I can find them up top! Knowing Happy Hour, it's probably a mid-5th class scramble just to get there. Let us all remember the lesson of Mike Sofranko and Happy Hour... :-( May 27, 2005

Regardless of ratings, I think this climb is [trickier] than its 5.8 [neighbor, Grins]. It's got some interesting moves and [isn't] that [wandering], great gear the whole way except maybe right off the ground depending how you start. [I'd] vote for 1.5 stars, it's worth doing. Nov 11, 2003

It is possible to plug in a 0.5 Camalot at the crux move. If you set it low enough, there should still be room for a good finger lock above it. At least there was for me. A 0.4 might also work well. Fun climb! Sep 29, 2015

There is now a two bolt anchor with rings just below the top of this climb. Sep 29, 2014

Really nice climb! Highly recommended. Well protected, long and fun. I recommend bouldering to the obvious 3 inch crack about 25 feet up and plugging a Camalot #4. Jun 12, 2013

I also had some trouble with the crux move in the corner. I may have plugged up the key finger lock for the right hand with a #0.5, so I French-freed the move to get my feet high enough to snag a good left hand finger lock and I was out of the corner. I think I made the move harder than it needed to be, though. Sep 12, 2010

Fun route with great movement. You'll find that the crux is evident, but not in the way of a good send; get high feet. Jun 14, 2009

First 5.9 lead and it was awesome. Gear is easy and abundant. Had to hang on the rope a bit at the crux but eventually sacked up and made the move. Aug 27, 2008

Great Route! I protected the crux with a green Alien, I actually took a very clean fall through the crux and the Alien was bomber. Jun 10, 2006

Definitely a nice route, not very sustained (much like Grins in that regard) but does have some tricky moves. Nov 17, 2003

Fun route, a good one to warm up on before hitting some of the other moderates. It didn't seem of very sustained nature. The crux was short, some interesting little bulges on the granite. Plenty of gear placements, seems like a good first 9 lead. Overall, Happy Hour is a great place to work on placing gear to your heart's delight while being able to challenge yourself. Nov 12, 2003

Right you are, Jay; this pitch is a lot more interesting than it looks from the ground. Sep 25, 2003

You might like having RPs for this climb, because the part below the crux is a bit tricky as well. A really good climb and a lot better than it looks from the ground. Sep 25, 2003

I agree with the 3 stars for sure. The 5.9 section is very short indeed, also you dont need to build an anchor if you just run your rope back a little to a tree up and left and belay from here. You can scramble down and right to get to the anchors for 'grins' and rappell or downclimb. A very enjoyable route with a mix of everything. Enjoy.. Nov 14, 2001

This is a fun route. It's a little easier than a 5.9, the only 5.9 sections is the small overhang 3/4 the way up. Even thought this site says that it's a trad route, you could easily top rope it with an anchor between a big rock and a tree. Aug 26, 2001

I think this route was actually really cool for what it's worth. It's nice to have a moderate or two at this crag. It's hard to rate a 3 move boulder problem. I did find, however, that you can place the #3 (red) BD micronut right after you do the roof mantle. There is a thin crack on the left. I wouldn't think of it as pro, but it does hold a toprope fall for a follower. I also found that the rope runs nicely for the leader if you don't place until the hand jams under the roof, and if you are average height you can clip the bolt from a perfect handjam. Jun 13, 2016

I thought this route was ok. The start caught me off guard a bit - I didn't even look at it until I started climbing. Not hard but not exactly easy. The move over the roof felt way awkward. Good hand holds but really scrunchy feet. Probably considerably easier if you are short, as the hand movements are pretty small. Good quick after work 12a, worth doing once. Also, if you are doing this one with somebody who will have trouble TR'ing the roof cleanly, you will want a plan. You don't really get gear after the roof until you go way up to the right. You will need to either back clean and try to get a piece way out left above, or do some other shenanigans. Otherwise, if the 2nd falls after unclipping the bolt, it would be an unpleasant, rope-grating swing. Jun 19, 2013

Bogus route. Jun 11, 2011

I do agree it was a 12 move, but somehow can't give it a 12 rating seeing as it finishes so easy. For you taller folk, did you have to use an intermediate after the left hand 3 finger shelf? If not, I can see how that makes it easier. At least with my foot smear, I def had to use that intermediate. Oct 25, 2010

After doing it not knowing anything about it, I guessed 11c or 11d. Call it 11+ and we're good. I doubt it was 12a, but maybe I got lucky or something. Fun moves marred by discontinuity of a line and lots of guano below the roof. May 7, 2008

Definitely .12- crux. One bolt on route (protects crux), is easy to clip from funky layback. Power up off tiny tiny holds to big finish. Rest of route gets R rating. Takes a few TCUs the rest of the way up. May 9, 2007

I would strongly disagree that this route goes at 5.11, 12 minus in my opinion. It is actually quite enjoyable lead if you angle up and right and join Dementia at the roof. A one or 2 move wonder with fun climbing above. 1.5 stars in my book. Jul 31, 2004

I think that .12 might be a little high for the grade on Rush Hour. My guess is that it it more like .11 b/c. Jul 23, 2001

FYI, as of 3/31/15 all the bolts on this climb are gone. They were there about a month ago. Anyone know what happened to them? Apr 1, 2015

Direct at 2nd to last bolt is balancy but not 5.12, or at least not hard 5.12 if you have a good wingspan. I still don't like the idea that this got bolted. It was always a nice TR, now it's a squeeze job with bolts clip-able from previously existing routes. Mar 8, 2015

This is fun, but it feels almost impossible in the 2nd to last bolt area. The old Rolofson guide calls this section 13a. Mar 15, 2013

Just climbed Dementia for the first time today and was wondering why all these bolts where within reach? Total squeeze job! Oct 7, 2010

Don't be sorry, Steve, it's Bolted Canyon. Jan 13, 2010

I guess I have not been up here in a while. Sorry Chris, I gotta say I think this is a poorly considered addition to the cliff. Jun 26, 2007

Tried to toprope this line and kept running into holds on "Thrill of the Chaise". I wonder how many ascents a year this route sees. Bolts 2.5 feet away diagonally from bolts on "Thrill" kind of just cluttered up a good trad/mixed area. Can't wait to lead Dementia with some bolts clipped though. Jun 20, 2005

Beware any route that says 11a or 12c. Sep 7, 2004

I've always enjoyed "Thrill". I had no idea it was a trad route, but I usually augment the route with a few cams (it's pretty exciting if you only bring quickdraws). This new route seems a bit close to "Thrill", kind of like some of the grid bolting at Sport Park. I've noticed that most of the bolts at Happy Hour see very little traffic, as most people there choose to do the trad routes instead. I will most likely enjoy the route, all the same. Aug 21, 2004

A historical note, since I was involved in the FA of Cheers with Rick Leitner and Kent Lugbill. We didn't knowingly retrobolt Thrill - we had no idea that the route had ever been done. We also did not drill the anchor bolts; these were apparently added later by local guides. A good route worth the two bolts, I think. Aug 20, 2004

I would have to agree with the above comments. This route doubles the bolt count on any other route at the crag. The lower potion of the route is easily lead on trad gear 3ft to the left. The 3rd bolt can be clipped from Dementia. The climbing looks interesting, but it probably should not have been bolted with 8 bolts. Aug 20, 2004

More regulated climbing is where we're headed. It's inevitable. Theres only going to be more people climbing and more people making impacts like this route. More regulation will happen. Aug 20, 2004

Chris, Thrill of the Chaise has only two bolts in it and didn't encroach on any other route. I didn't know if it was a trad route and I don't really care. It seems like your bolts retro it even more.... Now, while climbing Thrill, instead of only having those two bolts for the route, one could also clip all of your bolts. Maybe this is why you called it Seeing Double.... Aug 20, 2004

More regulated climbing? Oh yes, that's what we need. Aug 20, 2004

Routes like this make me think all climbing areas should be regulated as in Eldo or the Flatirons. Boulder Canyon is an uninspiring mess. Aug 20, 2004

Darren, Cheers retrobolted an existing trad route. Why would you consider that a more valid route? Jul 29, 2004

Should have been left a TR problem. poor choice to bolt this one.... Thrill of the Chaise (AKA Cheers) is not much of a thrill anymore. I should have had my wrench with me.... Jul 29, 2004

Seems like this one gets pretty close to Cheers. Jul 13, 2004

Formerly a TR problem, now leadable. Does that make these retrobolts? Jul 13, 2004

Originally led with one bolt. May 22, 2015

I thought the crux was a harder than 11a. It would be a difficult onsight as the holds aren't visible from your position as you enter the crux. Definitely take some small cams. Jun 4, 2014

Easy to toprope, but the long "runout" up to the first bolt is all really easy (5.6 maybe?), and protectable with gear. I'm pretty certain that this is no harder than 10c, the most difficult moves are low near the first two bolts. Still fun, if you're at Happy Hour, throw a rope on it and enjoy. Feb 20, 2004

It is a climb well worth doing! Great moves on the crux! Can seem a bit runout (I didn't think so), but the crux is well bolted and the run out parts can be protected. Good hand jammin' before the bolts, great place for pro if needed. Easy to top rope from top of Grins. DO IT! Sep 22, 2002

Really enjoyed this route. Not as hard as it looks in some places and harder than it looked in others. Jul 23, 2015

After pulling the roof, there's definitely enough options for two or more gear placements (if you didn't already use the size, c3s work well). Then it's either a 10-15 ft runout with 5.6 holds or you can take the easier crack to the left, which provides more security. Expect lots of rope drag caused by the roof if you try a toprope, even with a well extended anchor up top. Even lowering and cleaning was rough on the rope. There's a perfect horizontal slot at waist level below the roof that gives the best pre-roof placement, either a purple or green c4 if I remember correctly. May 22, 2015

Super fun roof! I had my helmet bumping the roof, and it took me a minute to find the great handholds above. Once I found the hold, it was pretty easy to turn the roof but still really fun. One of the more fun climbs I've done at Happy hour. Solid 5.8. Sep 7, 2014

For the roof move, stemming seems to be key for us short climbers. That wonderful jug to the left is a bit of a reach. Jun 2, 2014

Mostly straightforward. At the roof, both of us did things a little differently. Instead of reaching left and climbing around, reach straight through the crack in the roof, and feel for the rail on the left hand side. Commit to it, and bring your right hand around for a rail on the right hand side. Jul 9, 2013

Fun route! Had to take my helmet off in order to get my head past the roof. Jan 30, 2013

Just climbed it today & there was no bird nest that I could see. Super fun. Jun 20, 2012

Came to this route after 2 or 3 years of absence... can't believe that yellow (#2 BD?) cam is still stuck under the roof. I would have thought some super industrious college student would have gotten that out by now. Jun 14, 2012

Good fun! Good pro! Good good! Aug 14, 2011

I wouldn't want to lead this, as I didn't notice any pro placements after you turn the roof. Plenty of pro after you turn the roof, don't hesitate to lead this one. Wasn't even runout at all. Apr 9, 2008

Led this enjoyable route for first time on beautiful fall day, yesterday. This climb did not feel like a 5.8 to me - got stung by a bee as soon as pulled over the roof, so maybe this adds a half grade of difficulty! Roof is a fun little puzzle & easily protectable. There are two nut placements in the crack directly above the roof and at least one hex left and above if you look around for it. Nov 22, 2006

I just did this yesterday. Didn't feel quite like 5.8 but still super fun. However, I wouldn't want to lead this, as I didn't notice any pro placements after you turn the roof. Jun 8, 2005

What a great challenge for the Gym climber gone outside. I took a few gym climbers up today and found ourselves (among many others) with a great end of the day climb. The roof could be rated greater than an 8 if you were to heel hook to the right, however, I found it much more enjoyable to navigate the corner with a smooth crawl up the opposing face while grasping the great hold just above the roof. The slab directly above the roof is really thin for slab... just the way we like it. Jeff Burley Apr 6, 2002

When reaching the roof, place that piece at the lip and then reach up and right over the roof to find the nice jug waiting for you a little hard to spot from the ground and on the lead, but once you find it, the climbing eases for sure. A nice line. (What's with the piton about 2 feet from the top? Weird spot as there are plenty of spots there for good gear? Huh. Nov 14, 2001

A #1 or 2 Camalot works well in the hand crack under the roof. The step around seemed pretty thin as far as the feet go. After that, I sewed up the rest with Aliens (blue through red). The trees at the top make good anchors. Use them gently. Nov 19, 2006

A nice variation to this fairly easy climb is to start just right on the slab make your way up to a ledge and traverse left just under the underhang of Twofers. If you do this variation, I give it a nice 5.8. Following the gully all the way up... 5.7. Ciao' Jun 2, 2006

Really cool. Tons of gear and interesting moves. Aug 23, 2009

I'm pretty sure this is right of the Twofers roof. A good place to practice placing trad gear. Mar 15, 2008

If this is the big gully mentioned in Rossiter's guidebook, I remember it being to the right of Twofers (looking up at the wall), and to the left of The Big Split. Mar 2, 2008

The name of this route is Brat Slamet (not Slamit). I cleaned, bolted, & led the climb with a hang. F.A.: (5.12 A0) in April 2001. F.F.A.: Henry Lester on March 15, 2003. I belayed Henry, my friend & longtime climbing partner, on this desperate thin, shallow seam. It tweeked my right hand ring finger tendon badly. I was forced to stay on jugs for a couple months to heal it. I returned on January 10 2004 to finally redpoint it. We rated it .12c. It definitely earns its grade. I have ignored Taylor Roy's slightly inaccurate, incomplete posting of this route for 9 years. The information can be found in my guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide - Volume II" (2005). There was a time when more climbers got there info from guidebooks & this website didn't have much credibility. Times have changed, so has the great climber that this route was jokingly named after. His editorials used to slam much on the sport climbing in this canyon. I figured if he saw this route, he would say it should be a highball boulder problem, done with a good pad. I don't believe anyone has done it this way. It is a short route with a bit of narrow flat spot at the base. A 30 meter (100 ft.) long rope is more than long enough to descend. Jun 8, 2015

First ascent date was February 28, 2004. Some interesting climbing. Harder than it looks. Jul 16, 2017

If you go straight up at the crux, I think it's more like 11b/c! Feb 27, 2016

Like most of the routes at the Hideout, this is my route established in March 2003. The reason the 2nd and 3rd bolts are right of where you climb is for good reasons. First, placing these bolts left of the tiny arete & corner would mean putting them in a hollow flake. Secondly, putting the bolts to the left would encourage climbers to stem to the dirty corner & ledge to the left rather than stay on the face & lieback up the flake. It is also possible to climb this section on the arete next to the bolts. The way I usually climb the line is to move straight up to a good jug & clip 2nd bolt & then reach left to the flake. Lieback up the flake and then reach back right to clip 3rd bolt. It is easy to clip & I have never noticed any problem with the draws scraping over the arete. Having these two bolts here also makes for a cleaner fall, as you swing away from the ledge below. As for calling it PG-13, I struggle to think it deserves a seriousness grade, but if 5.11 is at or above your limit, perhaps it could fuck with your head. It is not dangerous. Jan 28, 2013

First ascent: Mark Rolofson & Vaino Kodas on February 10, 2004. 2003 date in my guidebook is a typo error. I have never thought of this route as contrived, even though it would be possible to continue climbing up right on the diagonal crack. This would be a different route, require gear & end at a different spot. After clipping the 2nd bolt above the ledge (4 bolt on the climb), I bust out left & ascend the face. Fun climbing on good rock. There are 6 bolts / 2 bolt anchor. Jul 16, 2017

This is my favorite route at the Hideout. Even though it is not as classic a 5.12 as Plan B & Hot Wire on Security Risk, or Global Gorilla at Animal World, Harassment climbs a very striking, vertical arete. The bottom half of the route climbs a face that starts out easy & then turns to .12a moves above 3rd bolt. The business is a desperate face crux at 5th bolt. From a tips lieback hold in a tiny, right-facing corner, reach tiny edges and dyno to a jug. This is technical with small edges for the feet. It is also possible to traverse right, which is slightly easier (.12b) but not as cool. Then gain a rest on a shelf on the right side of the arete. Move left, at 7th bolt, to ascend the left side of arete for an exciting, committing finish. Clip the last bolt when your hand are above it on the sloping shelf below the anchor. Jan 28, 2013

Thanks Peter. I would also like to thank Mark Rolofson for cleaning, and equipping this route. Without him, many of the routes in Boulder Canyon wouldn't exist. Apr 29, 2008

Good job Taylor, I worked on this route for quite a while but the crux holds always felt a bit too far apart. The grade seems very solid and probably harder if you're much shorter than 5'5". Apr 27, 2008

The name was inspired by a friend's childhood memories of playing in the pool with a girl named Chrissy. Apparently, he was a very naughty shark. We went up to this route thinking it would be much harder. Ben quickly unlocked the moves but didn't think he was very close to doing the route. So, he let me try it, and after breaking a foot and falling on my first attempt, I sent it second go. Ben did it quickly after me. A little awkward, and short lived, but really fun. Oct 14, 2007

Harder than 5.10a. 10b or 10c to onsight it. Apparently both my partner and I missed a key hold and "burly-d" through the crux, finding it later. No less, the climb is difficult. Fun too, but too short to be a destination climb. Under the roof there are 2 flakes the inner flake seems socketed in pretty well, but the outer one, and one which is tempting to put gear in behind is dicey at best. Beware! Jul 18, 2005

I took a shot at Diet when I was I pretty good 5.9 trad leader, and was stumped, pumped, and felt like I had just been...jumped. Mentioned my difficulties to some fella, what was his name, oh yes Dan Hare, whomI guess some of you might have heard of, he said not to worry about my difficulties, that when he did Diet he thought it might be 5.11a, maybe harder? Must mention Star Span, 5.11c, as the main attraction here, though I have not yet tried it, maybe next week! May 16, 2003

Probably a little stiff for 11b, but might have seemed easier if I had taped up. I am writing this with holes in my hands from jamming the crystals in the crack over the roof. Fun regardless. Would be 3 stars if it was a 100' pitch, but it isn't. A single set of cams from 0.5" to 3.5" are the pro, and I used a few med/large nuts for a bomber directional before starting the roof. The second may encounter some issues if they plan to hangdog- I would imagine that they might end up pretty low after a fall, particularly with any slings on the pro below the roof. As well, like the roof on Vertigo in Eldo, the rope gets sucked into the crack and maybe into the gear. Be mindful and consider taking a hex for a "bearing" placing it sideways out at the edge of the roof to keep the rope out. Set a 2.5" cam above for a directional, then belay up and at climber's right on a big sling around a boulder and a large solid tree. Jul 18, 2005

The low crux is a single power sequence. Maybe 10+/11-. Not sure. The start also need not be as for Red Bull, you can do the slab left of that lone bolt for some new territory, and it's not too hard or unsafe. The arete up top has cool moves- look for camouflaged holds instead of getting sucked too far off to the right. Nov 16, 2006

A good climb for the short distance it covers. As well, I did it "belly to the bolts," but a different sequence than was done for the FA. I found it to be perhaps 5.11c and more gymnastic/powerful. Gear: The bolt below the potential gear placement is only at your knees when you reach the next one, so no gear is needed. Why hold on to crux holds for so long when big jugs and a clip are coming? I placed one to see how it was, but not until I was at the last clip anyway. Felt like a little bit too much effort since the route is adequately bolted for a safe ascent. Nov 16, 2006

This felt harder than 5.9, but only for 2 meters. Then again, we did it in sub-freezing temperatures at sunrise. I suspect it might be easier for smaller people, and Mike is a Hobbit, so I can see where he is coming from.... Climb the easy slab with a hand crack in the corner, put in overhead gear (larger) then pull into a lieback and some grunting for a body length. A #5 Camalot is at the knees for a crux exit, but there is some suspect rock around, so be attentive to place it carefully. I think this would be a very hard and potentially dangerous for a 5.9 leader. To belay, walk back 5m from the top and sling a few big rocks. If only the climb were taller than 25', it would get more stars and respect. Post script edit: Mike has admitted that the assigned grade was a sandbag and was assigned because this is the 'traditional offwidth sandbag grade.' Apr 6, 2006

No gear needed. The placement comes with a bolt at your knees and easy moves after it. The route is perhaps 50-60 feet, but has a big ledge in the middle So it feels like a 15 foot slab to a 30 foot climb, with some messing around on a ramp between. In the end, if felt like a very short route. But it was OK, if you don't mind short routes. Climbing the seam/flake to the right of the bolts would go on TR or with an added bolt, but be very hard (V6+). I partially brushed this, but didn't do the last move. Maybe more cleaning would fix it. Nov 16, 2006

A mostly easy route until the crux up high. Was still a little crumbly, and I pulled a lot of chips off of it. When you hit the top crack, go up, not right. 5.9. Crux pro is a good small Alien and a so-so small stopper. Nov 16, 2006

This route is a ton of fun! The approach is a short walk up a steep hill full of fallen trees and brush, and then are you're at the base of the climb. It's extremely well-protected, which is awesome, since after the first bolt it is steep and overhanging the whole way up. This is a must climb for anyone hanging around the Boulder Canyon area, it's just way too much fun to pass up. Mar 25, 2012

Were this pitch not coated in munge, it might be something different, but it is and it sucks. This is the worst climb I've ever done. May 15, 2008

This looks doable from the bottom, but my partner and I both gave up after several top-rope attempts. May 29, 2014

Dan Hare put this up free solo and first go back in the day. He told me it was one of the scarier moments of his life. Pretty proud considering how insecure the route is. Pretty cool, Dan! Nov 25, 2015

I led this climb twice in 1985. The first ascent & then months later, repeated it with Cindy Peiropan belaying me. There is actually a lot of protection, but most of it is tiny (#2 micro stoppers or RPs). The start is a very short, small right-facing corner with a #5 or #6 micro stopper, that protects the traverse right to the shallow thin seam ascending the steep slab. Marginal #2 RPs protect moves to the end of the seam. Here is a deep, thin slot where a #2 and/or #3 micro stopper can be keyholed in. In other words, place the nut the narrow way into the slot, and turn it around to the wide profile. A few feet above, a #4 micro stopper can be placed behind a fragile tiny flake before running it out to the ledge. Double ropes were used: one rope into the keyholed placement, the other rope into the flake. A fall or lower-off will distribute your weight onto both peices of gear more equally this way. The good news is the run-out gets easier the further you climb. Above the great rest ledge, the wall is vertical, but the pro is better (still several #2 RPs and a small tricam). Very exciting but not X rated. I rated it R/X. One other note is the line draw in Bob D'Antonio's Boulder Canyon Guide is incorrect. This route is not on the west face like the other routes. It is on the south face and was the only route on that face. Lastly, I did not place the bolt anchor on top. I believe John Payne added these years later. Feb 2, 2015

The route is very fun. The core muscles inside of my rib cage were sore for days after I TR'd it; however, I actually don't think that Cor and Wayne can tell the difference between 11- and 11+ sometimes.... I think it's harder! May 9, 2012

Cor, The other 3 bolt route was put up by Bob Horan. 5.10 sounds about right. Not sure who he did this with. Steve S. May 7, 2012

I Lichened it! Another great find HC. Worthwhile to tromp up the gully for these two fun lines. May 7, 2012

There is another route on this wall to the left of orange you lichen it. The other climb (not sure who did it) goes up face with three bolts, then goes to trad out some small overhangs. At the top, there is a one bolt anchor. You can back it up with a cam, then scramble right to my anchors to descend, or walk off top. This climb is 5.10ish. May 4, 2012

I'm pretty sure that Litter Box is the short sport/mixed route that begins just around the corner to the left of Long Walk Crack. This is an undocumented line. Jan 31, 2011

Despite the meager height, it is a respectable OW pitch (at least by Boulder Canyon standards) for those seeking experience. Jan 30, 2011

Bring tape. You pull pretty hard on a few fist-jams in some pretty coarse rock. Feels more like Vedauwoo than Boulder Canyon granite. A fun climb if you don't mind hiking a long way to do 30' routes. Single set of BD #1-#6 protects it well. Walk the 6 with you -- it's nice to have for a constriction in the upper section of the crack. Jan 30, 2011

While the crack isn't that tall, the ground is sloping with lots of rocks so A.) gear is better than a pad and B.) who would ever drag a pad that far up there? Oct 19, 2008

There are chains at the top that also serve a short sport/mixed climb (Litter Box 5.10a) that starts around the corner to the left of this route. Jan 30, 2011

First ascent: Mark Rolofson on August 26, 2004. I repeated the climb months to a year later. I haven't been back in over a decade, so I won't insist that the grade I gave it of 5.12b/c is correct. It definitely felt harder than Blue Flame or The Harder They Come. It is short, but I find it hard to believe this route is only 5.11 & not at least 5.12a/b. Jul 16, 2017

Different, but certainly no harder than Blue Flame, IMO. I really thought no harder than 11c. Not trying to be a tough guy and downgrade a full number grade, but you reach from a jug to a decent sloper, lock in the bomber heelhook and reach to a decent to poor hold. Then bump to a jug. I warmed up on this route, and I legitimately had more difficulty on The Harder They Come than this thing. Perhaps it's a size thing. I'm tall (but overhangs and roofs are my biggest weakness), and I have fat fingers (so The Harder They Come was tough to get my tips in - but I'm also best at cracks). Regardless, I thought it was as fun as anything else at this wall even with all the sharing of common ground. Jun 20, 2017

I stick clipped the 1st bolt. There is an empty & probably partially drilled bolt hole at the start. I have always thought plugging it with a bolt would be wise. Especially considering that the climb starts on a ledge with a cliff below. Very cool climbing & one of the better routes on the wall. Jul 16, 2017

Rather amusing to think of bouldering this route with pads & spotters. Especially considering the consequences of rolling down the slab below & over a cliff, then down another hill & over the Bowling Alley. No thanks, I think I'll pass on that idea. That is why I bolted this route. Quite engaging climbing for a short route with the crux past the 3rd bolt, followed another hard move past the 4th bolt. The line really caught my attention years before I bolted it. It was worth the effort to send it. I originally rated it 5.12d/13a, but 5.12d is probably more accurate. Jul 16, 2017

Funny that you guys thought this route was worth two stars. I guess I should say thank you. I thought it barely deserved one star on a 5 star system. Interesting moves to start it & then its pretty easy to the anchor. Jul 16, 2017

I did this cool route again, and it definitely feels 5.10ish. Definitely worth doing, but stretch first if it's your warm-up. Sep 24, 2015

This is so short that it looks stupid, but it is actually really fun. Sep 23, 2015

I personally think this route is as hard, if not harder, than Blue Flame. Might be the size of my fingers? Jun 20, 2017

Climbed this on 12/28 after playing around on Huston Crack. It took some effort to find the rock, and I wish I had read Tony's comment before being there -- the buttress that's directly downhill from the Lost Flatiron threw me off a little. I probably took a line that was a bit too far to the right of the arete, because it didn't feel like there were any moves even remotely approaching 5.7. Jan 1, 2003

Definitely a one pitch route. I seem to remember that Rossiter's book says it's even three pitches long...now that's an overstatement if I've ever heard one! Pretty straight forward, no funny traverses that would cause rope drag or anything, so there really is no reason it shouldn't be done as one pitch, seeing as how it isn't even 200 feet. Oh yeah, the very bottom balance slab getting up on the face is the crux and didn"t feel any harder than five seven with the rest being five five or easier (forgive me my keyboard just fritzed and I can no longer type commas or numbers). Happy climbing! Sep 27, 2002

Granted, the approach takes some time, and the descent is steep and messy. In addition, it seems less than 5.7, and I would say there really isn't a crux. However, I thought this was a terrific moderate climb with good pro and neat exposure. Also, the views to Blob and Eagle are excellent; it's a fine place to be on a sunny day. Although it can be done in one long pitch, two pitches keeps you in sight of your partner for the most part. I think this climb is well worth doing -- once. Aug 13, 2002

If the rock seems crappy, then you are on the little buttress about 50 yards down the hill too far. Go up and around to get to the right rock. Take a single 60M rope and do it in a single nice pitch, as the route is less than 200 feet long. Rossiter's description of a crux at about 200 feet up would have to be correct. Anyone climbing over 200' on that rock is INCREDIBLE. Seriously, it is nice and it's probably easier than 5.7. It climbs and protects like a flatiron. Take a single 60M rope and do it in a single nice pitch. Sep 27, 2001

I did this as two short pitches. I was swarmed by ants at the first belay on this less than interesting route. No crowds though, that's for sure. Sep 20, 2007

This route is 5.11 if you don't stray far from the bolts. Good route. Jan 9, 2008

It was probably 12b/c or 12c all along -- I just sandbagged it. The crux is hard even if you take the rest. Bummer about the anchor hardware. I'll replace this summer with quicklinks and chain or something. Why anyone would steal it is beyond me. Climbers.... Mar 26, 2017

Couldn't figure out a way to get past the 3rd bolt without going over into the gully with my left foot. It's a long ways up to the next holds, and the horizontal is at shoulder height, kind of a high step for 12-. What was I missing? FWIW - the anchor hardware is gone except for the bolts and hangers. It may be possible to utilize the anchors on the route to the right, but that would be difficult. Mar 22, 2017

Cannot recommend this crag. Sketchy approach, lichen covered rock, and too many gawking tourists. One for the bolter canyon climber who's done it ALL. Sep 5, 2006

Great route! Come strong. Extremely well protected. Sep 27, 2004